kaypsmith

A small piece of rubber garden hose over a wooden dowel, leave the dowel about 3/8 inch back from the end of the hose, put a small hose clamp on the opposite end of the contraption. Press the protruding hose end into the light socket applying pressure against it. Of course as others have mentioned, be sure the power is turned off on the fixture. Small correction, garden style hose is probably to large to press into the base of the bulb, a short length of rubber fuel hose the correct external diameter can be acquired from an auto parts store will work well. Just remember that the bayonet style base requires a push against it to release. If it doesn't come out easily after release and there is not enough room to get needle nose pliers into the area, a vacuum cleaner with the hose reduced to a small enough diameter can be used to help the base out of the confinement.

Bill probably knows a better paint, but I have used Flexseal, it's a rubber sprayon that works very well for me.

Here is what I ran into with two regulators, if I use an automatic changeover for two tanks, with two regulators I can use only 50% of either tank, and the auto changeover will not changeover automatically, and will only allow 50% of either tank, and reports an empty tank on either one at this point. I don't know why this happens but that is my scenario when I use two regulators. If I take the auto changeover out of the equation, either tank will empty properly. The only reason that I have this situation is because the lp gas generator has one built onto it and the changeover device has one built onto it, therefore the generator can't be used through the changeover device.

Those are what we refer to as JACKLEG ELECTRICIANS in my part of the woods.

Most convection ovens come with a "cookbook" that is designed for use in that particular oven. Generic instructions would be hard because of the design of a particular unit, such as, some have one fan, some have two and other concerns.

She is correct in most coaches that have an ATS which will change the load over, but to swap over under load is not the best way, as this can damage the contacts in the ATS thereby shortening the life of the ATS.

We like to have both options, and can store many items "such as canned goods or cooking utensils" in the gas oven when extra space is needed.

Herman, I think that Brett is referring to a miswired CG pedestal, possibly in an older campground that was origionaly a 30 amp cg with a jackleg electrician miswireing from an origional 120 volt circuit, not bringing in a true 220 volt circuit. That would give 120 on each leg of the 50 amp plug with neutral on the correct leg, in this case you would read 120 to neutral or ground from either "hot" leg, but no reading hot to hot. The intellitec would see this as a non 220 volt circuit. Not a correction, I hope a clarification.

On a note Joe about gas drying out the food, my Mom used gas while I was growing up, she always placed a small pan of water in the oven while cooking to overcome the dry out effect, worked for her and me also. But we of course only cook with convection now days.

Here is a towing guide from brakebuddy. As Brett pointed out if within your state you are legal but every state has its own rules and if you go into that state that you will not be legal in, you are bound by its rules. Most of us agree that the peace of mind knowing that we can stop sooner is much better than later. http://www.brakebuddy.com/towing-laws

I don't have a ladder on the back of my bus either, but the manufacturer installed three sets of channels for information signs on the right rear motor door, that works great for me.

I recommend using black ties on the outside on any application, reason, black is the only color that ultraviolet light will not break down, meaning longer life with exposure to the sun.

There is no absolute that they will pose any threat in any way, but there there is no absolute that they will not. Probability is much against any favorability that they will not. IMHO, I would make swings out of them, and spring for new ones, just for my own comfort of mind, if not for the safety of others. A blowout could be lethal!

Eliminating all standing water from an area is about the only way to keep them away permanently. DDT used to work well, but gov't banned that many years ago. There is some sprays that work for awhile, but I have not found that work that well.

BA HUM Turkey, Ham, Prime Rib!

Jim, j's name is Joe, he is a great mechanic. Happy Thanksgiving to all, Kay

Joe, that couldn't have happened, Trump has not been sworn in Yet.

Water in gasoline will settle to the bottom of the tank especially after sitting for a while. But there are several other factors with an EFI system. such as not enough fuel pressure on the rail, much like a diesel but not as high a pressure. Most gas powered vehicles these days have an electric fuel pump installed in the fuel tank, if this totally quit, the engine would fail to start period, but if it becomes weak, with all the sensors in place, they would tell the computer to shut down the engine an on and on. Too much additive could possibly cause a fuel pump to become weak and malfunction. But a water laden fuel filter will cause the same problem, I have not seen a water separation system on a gas powered system lately, only paper in the filter, and it doesn't take much water to start the restriction process. Coachnet probably knows this better than us though.

OP stated quick disconnect piece, that is reason for question about OD size, many icemaker's use a 1/4 plastic line which actually uses a quick connect fitting, but as stated by WildBill308, hard to know without pictures or sizes. My bus uses 5/16 OD tubing and ferrel type fittings

Most heatpumps are not effective below 40 degrees, but they do include heat strips which take over when the compressor cannot separate enough heat from the air, yours must be working well.

What is the OD of the piping, and is it a hard plastic tubing?

Your generator uses a different fuel filter than the coach engine, also pickup is most commonly placed at the 1/4 tank level for the generator. Overdosing according to Sta-Bil instructions will not harm the system, it is a petroleum distillate. And as stated earlier, and by others, fuel filters are cheap and would be my starting point.

I was the unlucky recipient of water in the fuel received at the gas pump many years ago and had some results very similar as described. I would remove the fuel filter and look for contaminates within the filter, I use a clear glass container to pour the contents of the filter into. If water is in the gas, it will go to the bottom in a few minutes. Knowing that most gasoline sold these days contain ethanol (grain alcohol), the alcohol will allow water to mix with gasoline, but too much water will still drop to the bottom if you wait long enough. Sta-Bil is a good product for keeping the gasoline from losing it's octane rating but to my knowledge does not overcome the results of water in fuel. Fuel filter would be my starting point.

Yokohama is a tire brand, but google does not bring up a Yamaha tire brand. I have seen many of the Yokohama brand on automobiles, but not on heavy tire applications, doesn't mean they don't make them, just unseen by me. Most MH tires still look good treadwise because of the reasonably low mileage that is usually put on them, so many of us know to replace them because of age. My coach uses a very popular truck tire size, I have stated on the forum before that I have a routine of replacing two tires every two years, not allowing any tire to become more than six years old, I have a deal with a local trucker that buys the two from me because the tread always looks very good. I usually get 150.00 per tire, but was paid 200.00 each last month. I was typing at the same time as your reply came up Marvin.

Almost any new tire is better than a dry rotted tire. Michelin, then Goodyear will most assuredly give a better ride than some of the cheaper ones. But the call would still be up to you as to how much you are willing to pay. My personal thought that a safe ride would be my goal, and if on a limited budget, and you don't travel that much, a cheaper tire may do just fine, but please keep those dry rots off the road for you, your family and others that you may encounter going down the road. I know that this happens rarely on motorhomes, but DOT does have the authority to inspect any vehicle's tires and can levy a hefty fine if found to be unsafe. I have used Toyo, Sumitomo, Kumho, and several others over the years with very good results with all of them. Happy and safe travels to you.