kaypsmith

Duhh! And Carl thought that you were a HOG farmer. My favorite is Merlot, just in case we should park next to each other.

Well, I do not believe the OP is actually degrading the insurance company to that degree, he is advising others to not make the same mistake that he did, by neglecting to make sure that his insurer has the ability to keep him notified by means other than snail mail. I use Allstate, and they have an app that I have downloaded onto my semi smart phone that will keep me informed if I am smart enough to check it when the app will and does notify me. rggarrot, WELCOME to the forum.

Brett, I get lots of those ???? looks when I tell anyone that the bus has a two stroke diesel, and as you know, it is.

Oneway, if you plan to replace the unit yourself, the job is relatively easy. While shopping for a replacement, I would normally suggest going from 13,500 to 15,000, but in your case since your RV is a 30 amp hookup, I would stay with a 13,500 to keep in sync with your present setup. Be sure to keep in mind that there is ducted and non-ducted units on the market, if your controls are overhead attached to the unit, that is non-ducted, and I would suggest replacing the inside control and vent at the same time, some are sold with and some without, be sure to keep this in mind. If ducted, "thermostat on wall", then replace with a ducted unit. Other post's about how to get it on the roof and safety precautions are all good pointers. Keep us posted, and PM me if I can be any help.

housegouse We pronounce that (hoos-cow) in Alabama.

My reply to Thor would be, "SURE HOPE THAT i DON'T HAVE AN AQUA COOL SYSTEM ALSO, GOING TO HAVE THE SAME WINDSHIELD AND INSULATION THIS SUMMER".

Here is a much better test for the AC compressor than the one that the op was using. http://www.hvactrainingsolutions.net/troubleshooting-air-conditioning-compressor-motors-like-pro/ All of the readings are conclusive that the compressor is bad, remember that his ohm meter is calculated in 1K ohms, meaning that 5.0 is 5000 ohms 1.0 is 1000 ohms etc. Sorry that the unit will need replacing, but better than paying out big bucks for a generator that appears OK. Of course we haven't heard back yet about the smoke test. This also proves that testing rather than throwing parts at a problem is far better. Good luck oneway

Bill, when you work around the trucking industry as Joe does, 12X22.5 are much easier to find. I also use 12X22.5 on my coach and I can find them around B'ham pretty easily.

Very nice looking coach, congratulations. Welcome to the forum.

No problem at all, glad to get the old brain taxed every once in a while. In an earlier post I mentioned ohms law 101 and eluded to parallel resisters versus series resistors, what I was referring to is the fact that there are two sets of winding. One being run winding (black), and the start winding being (red). Now both winding's are supposed to be common to common, in other words they are continuous , not a dead short, but with a resistive load (this is what makes electricity actually work) those readings were above ("zero" which is a dead short), they are still continuous but still connected to common, which is good. Now if the two of them are reading a number which is the sum of the two, they are doing what they are supposed to do they are working series. Now when you read start to run, you should be reading a higher number (the sum of the two), but if you read a lower number, this indicates a short between the two windings, not a short to ground but a short to each other, this is not what end result that we want to see. The reason that I added the question mark after the cont comment,was my way of saying yes contnuity is wanted but not dead short, I don't know to high resistance your meter reads continuity. Don't get too far over your head but as I stated earlier I for one appreciate your willingness to learn, as this persistence is what make all of us to be better at whatever we endeavor to do.

Carl, you have to keep up! Go back a page, they are still there, don't panic.

In the top of set of numbers you stated that white to red =5, w to b =1, r to b =6, that is good. But later down you stated after you removed all wires and rechecked all which includes cap, w to r = 5, w to b =1, and r to b = 4, 4 is less than 5 that is bad. White being common/neutral, that is ground for testing purposes, so you are checking red to ground and black to ground in this point in the test. Red is start, and black is run according to your schematic. White which is common is ground when the circuit is completed all the way back to the breaker/fuse box. The outside of the encasement/metal is also supposed to be grounded all the way to the ground provided before it enters your coach, as this is the safety feature built into the electrical code. If common breaks down and leaks to the case of a device, it becomes a shock hazard, therefore you should not have continuity to the metal housing. Newer tools that have only two wires to plug in are made of a composite material such as plastic which is dielectric, meaning that it does not carry electricity and can not shock you, which is why the third leg can be eliminated,

Jim you are correct.

Oneway, I'm sorry that I misread your second set of readings. They are still the same on both readings merely stated in a different order which indicates the compressor is bad. Smoke test will still be ok and we can always hope for the best. Note also on your meter, the setting for ohm reading is K ohm, that means that for every 1. that you read is 1000 ohms, this is what was meant in another post that some meters will not read that low. I'm sorry that I didn't notice that and also you reported that all test read continuity? I'm used to reading a much more sophisticated vom.

Yep, with the test results you should be good to go. Hope that all is well and it ends well, if so you will have saved a bundle. Persistency pays! I suspect that has been a beneficial learning curve. And thanks for the Blue angel photos they are great.

All good questions, OD engaged on level or smooth roads or downhill, the rpm's should lower, as that is what OD is designed for, improving mpg. In this condition the motor should be running slower which will improve mpg plus extend engine life. While in OD if the transmission detects a harder pull than should be then it will shift out of OD to the drive setting without it showing on the shift indicator but you will see a sudden jump in rpm, this is to help maintain speed of your vehicle. My personal driving habits is to place in drive position in around town traffic and if I am encountering a very hilly condition. As to the tar/sewer smell, I don't have a clue as to what that may be, hopefully an expert in this field will chime in. By the way, Welcome to the forum.

The compressor should have been read with everything, including the cap out of the equation. With that situation, your second try should be the correct one. Just a little 101 on ohms law, if two resistors are parallel, then the highest number will be reduced by the lowest, this would indicate that there is a breakdown between the start and run winding's and this will blow a cap. If the two are in series, the result will be the sum of the two resistors, meaning that the two resistors are common only to common. Smoke test is certainly in order, just be sure that all wires are in the correct position, even if that means comparing to the second AC. Just be careful working with the capacitors, they will light up your life if you do not discharge them each time they are disconnected. Again good luck with the test.

Mine is 41.5, a little common sense should keep anyone out of trouble. The only restrictions that has kept me out from anywhere that I wanted to go is of course weight and a campground that couldn't accommodate the length, most can. Now just a little humor Ernie, I thought about adding a slide from the roof for fast getaways!

Wish I could be there tomorrow, I love to watch the Blue Angels, have already their show in Pensacola Florida this year.

Beautiful coach, have seen two, now three over the years.

Flat bed would ok, but most of the time the driver of the tow truck will ask about unbolting the drive shaft, or in some cases, just remove the axels from the drive axel. The hubs are on bearings so they will coast just fine. I was typing while Wayne was, that is why the redundancy.

OK, assuming that white is common, white to black, white to red, if ok black to red should be equal to the sum of the first two. Or think in these terms, if white to black = 42, then white to red = 42, then if black to red = 84, then the compressor is probable ok. This is assuming that white is common, and as stated it usually is, but also, remember sometimes manufacturers are strange animals, they may have used black as common. You will need to set your VOM (volt ohm meter) to read ohms (resistance), most meters have several settings, (0-999,1k-2k) and so on, start with the lowest setting, if no reading, move switch to the next highest, until a reading is obtained. Remember the numbers that I used is just an example, if I had schematics/maintenance manual for your unit, those numbers would appear there, but I don't have them at my disposal. And yes, all you have to lose by replacing the cap with the new one, (the one with the black PTC) on it, is the part if it blows again. If it works, will be wonderful. If you do replace it, don't put any part of your body close and have someone else "TRY IT", for safety sake.

That is great news about the generator. The cap in top photo appears to be a hard start cap without PTC, the bottom with PTC. I am guessing, but the tech probably saw that the two was not equal to the highest total ohms read, indicating an open, or break in the winding rather than a short. A short would definately create an arc situation blowing the cap, a no start and repetitive tries to start would probably cause the PTC to burn up eventually. Read as "1= Common to run, 2 = run to start, 3 = start to common. If the resistance of 2 equals the total of the highest ohm reading between the leads the compressor is good", common or neutral should, but not always, be white. And it would double if 1 and three read the same resistance.

Joe, are those 6 or 8 bags?