kaypsmith

Just the valve, the dryer appears to be in very good condition outside. It actually has a nice guard underneath that looks like took most of the winter blunt.

There should be absolutely no continuity between green or chassis to neutral. If you are seeing this, then there is a problem. Could be a blown diode within the inverter, or within any circuit breaker box someone may have accidentally placed a ground wire to a neutral bus, there is supposed an additional bus bar everywhere in the coach, this is only supposed to take place at the the CG pedestal. Since your batteries negative are supposed to be grounded to the chassis, if ac gets to the chassis at any point other than the pedestal, it will cause the feedback condition. Sometimes this condition will actually cause that tingling sensation in wet conditions, don't want that to happen. The surge guard is not supposed to bond neutral to ground, as mentioned earlier this should not happen before the campground pedestal, although there may be an electronic circuitry to make this happen in the absence of electrical connection, without schematics of the surge guard it would be hard to tell. One other place that comes to mind, the generator is supposed to be mounted in rubber with no metal touching the bus chassis or not even bonded with a wire, the green (ground) wire on the generator should be attached at the transfer switch ground circuit, I have seen over the years an installer put that wire to neutral which is incorrect.

Joe, I was in the insurance sales industry for two years, I got out of that for the same reason that you left dealerships. I started to call you last weekend, had to change out the dryer purge valve on my coach, stuck open, ouch.

You may want to also consider adding extra batteries also, as Lenp pointed out that 10 amps at 120 volts consumes at least 100 amps, I usually calculate 20% extra for the overhead of the inverter, as it uses some of the 12 volts to actually invert to 120 plus fans for cooling. If your coach was designed to use only the onboard 12 volt appliances, then extra 12 volt capacity will be needed to power the addition of the 120 volt appliances. You may want to actually incorporate a stand alone scenario for the inverter purpose. If you decide to go this route we will be happy to advise what will be needed to acheive this goal.

Bill, sorry to take so long to get back. AC feedback is a term used meaning that there is a ac entering the dc side of the device, meaning of course that there is probably a neutral side of the ac circuit somehow touching or maybe miswired and making way to the frame of the inverter. With shore power disconnected and generator not running, test for continuity at the two blades of the shore power cord, neutral and ground are the two blades. Continuity can mean any amount of resistance between the two, not just 0 ohms, if this occurs check for bonding al all junction boxes, there should be none, if there is that will be the source of the feedback. If possible please include the model number of the inverter.

Bill, I use IE11 and your signature appears there. I just logged in with chrome, your signature was not there when not signed into my account, logged in and viola your signature is now in chrome. Suggest that you log out of your account then log back in to see if it comes back.

Bill, is this a 240 volt output inverter, or is it a 120 volt inverter with two connections? The inverter should be labeled either 240 or 120 volts, also how many watts is the inverter? Will answer the first question when I know the specs on the inverter. Also, is there any device in the coach which is a true 240 volt device?

He probably wishes that it had been his Sony instead of the hub cap. He wouldn't be worrying about the gorilla tape coming loos anymore.

Yes, there are ways to parallel, or stack by using a parallel harness. These devices are designed to electronically set the phase between the two or more inverters so that they are perfectly in sync. And in most cases the inverters must be of the same size and manufacturer. Honda inverter generators are famous for this as they were first to use this technology.

Since 12 volt side is direct current, it would ok to have both of them to charge the battery bank at the same time. And with smart technology, both will be sensing to prevent an overcharge situation. What will not work is for both inverters to supply the same AC circuit at the same time, that would in almost any case cause the inverters to trip because of the inability to be in perfect phase with each other.

Joe, a cake decorating bag with a round tip, "several sizes available", will work very well and is less trouble than your trick, although yours is very ingenious. Your job looks great.

I have a Samsung 19 cubic foot French door style in my motorhome, this the fourth year with no issues yet. We chose this one because of the very low amperage draw, 4 amps max at startup. I can't hear it running right next to it, although it is on a granite floor. The Samsung can be run on a modified sine wave inverter, but I bet your four year old Newmar has a pure sine wave inverter, and probably will be plenty large enough without adding a dedicated inverter, especially if you shop carefully and be mindful about the amperage draw, you will find this info inside the fridge door. Another thing to look for is inverter technology on the residential fridge, more of them are coming available all the time, this technology is the quietest and most energy efficient on the market today. The sweet thing about inverter technology is the compressor continually runs after the initial startup, which is the most energy consumption, after startup, the compressors simply slow down to a very slow speed after the fridge reaches the desired temperature, which contributes to less noise and less energy consumption.

Relays in transfer switch are 120 volt, no 12 volt supplied to it. I would certainly have it checked out and as mentioned above make sure that they check all wire terminals and contacts for burn signs and retighten all terminals while in the switch. If the contacts are burned, I would have the switch replaced. Depending on use of course, I usually get about 10 years use out of the Iota brand ATS, and I average two times a week to use it. And I agree with Brett, the ATS doesn't sound like the culprit, based on your reply.

Black is the only color that is UV resistant, doesn't need any additional UV protection. This is not true in the case paint jobs that has clear coat on top of the black basecoat. The basecoat is still UV proof, but the clearcoat must have a UV additive to preserve it, otherwise you will see premature clearcoat peeling.

Carl, did you check the shore power breaker at the pedestal? I assume that the inverters are automatic in case the power fails is why they are both on. If this is true, recycle the shore power breaker. Also does the AC's work now? Few coaches are designed for the AC's work on an inverter.

This looks like about 3 years at or near the gulf, my brother has a place 50 yards off the water near Panama City, and this is typical there. I recommend a very thorough wash job underneath using a pressure washer before starting the above treatments. They are all good suggestions, but the salt is still there if not washed with plenty H2O. And of course not just the areas where you already see the corrosion, but a thorough cleaning all over. That salt in the air will also cause the clear coat to give up at an earlier age if not cleaned well. Good luck with your acquisition, and with proper maintenance up front it should and will last many years.

Gary, don't know if this is the same one that you watched, but here is a youtube video. It appears that the cover is snapped into place if this is possible on your unit

Sorry to hear such a disdainful story Gary, hope the rest of the trip is much better. You are probably right, a scam artist waiting for the right sucker to come along.

U, OSO, huh?

Herman, Carl was trying to tell me about your ribs, please let me know when the next batch is done.

Welcome to the forum Keith. Do you have a volt meter that you can check for output at the generator? If you are accustomed to checking with one, that is the first place to check, if you are not comfortable working with, please have someone that is. If there is voltage there, the next place to check is the automatic transfer switch, if there is one. most coaches your model have one unless someone has changed to some type of manual. Also most 5500's have two breakers attached to the generator, one 25 amp, other a 30 amp, make sure they are on and not tripped, if tripped, push to the off position to reset then back to the on position. Bill I think that was typing same time that you was, not to repetitive.

I second Bill ##. The Miracles 1960 "You better shop around", more memories. I wonder how many white mice is necessary for critter comfort?

Herman is serious, the H2 is now DEAD.

Carl, was at Tannehill for the last week and half so didn't see your question till today, torque is 1020 at 1200 RPM, as far as gear ratio, I'm not sure, is geared for highway so pretty low. Will cruise at 70 about 1500 rpm. The DW called me while following, I was passing one of those #@$%&&# once who was on the telephone, slowed from 60 to 45, so I passed her, she looked out the window as I was going by, so she started gassing on hers. Long story short, she wasn't going to let me in front of her, level ground, DW stated that she was going 92 and couldn't catch up. Of course I let off the accelerator because of the call.

Probably was not plugged in, I'm still looking for the charger that works without being plugged in. Carl where are you when you are needed?