kaypsmith

See if this one works, only one found on the me series so far. http://www.magnum-dimensions.com/sites/default/files/MagArchive/64-0003-Rev-D-ME-RC.pdf The below is for pre 2.5 rev http://www.magnum-dimensions.com/sites/default/files/MagArchive/64-0003-Rev-1-8-03-ME-RC.pdf

Rich, below is an example of the EDIT function, it only appears on your own post, simply click on Edit and you can modify or add. Very handy tool. Notice Edit in blue at the bottom of your post, next to Quote. ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All of the above are good. My first was a Southwind with the 454, my last resort was to go a high performance shop and purchase a very expensive set of plug wires, that was my final solution, and it work for me. BTW, I had replaced with factory replacements three times before, with no good results. Quote Edit _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Perhaps a new chapter/wing, could even include /TT to the egg signifying the travel trailer ownership. I personally would welcome anyone to the association, because of the fact that nearly all general campgrounds in the area's that I usually travel, are usually a 75/25 mix, with 75% being travel trailer. Some of these often seem intimidated with the motorhome ownership being at these sites also. I think that the remodel is a good move because any time membership is enlarged, benefits can and will be expanded at little to no additional cost to the current membership. Also with the newly upgrade to the forum servers, the motorhome forum as it is already, as well a TT forum can easily for those that want the expertise of TT advise. Therefore I consider it a win/win condition.

Four hours a day may not be enough time, or the timer may have failed.

Fiberglass is certainly better than rubber as far as I am concerned, but fiberglass can have issues also. For that reason, a roof inspection would be on my list to help decide which coach to purchase. Inspection of roof includes caulking, no dry or peeling of same, paying special attention to any and all protrusions through the roof, as well as looking for possible repairs. Check the inside for any discoloration of the ceiling material around all of the same. I had a friend that owned a Mountainaire, that was a fine coach with few miles on it before he passed away.

Roland, on any older coach, the roof is the major concern. Which one of the two has the best roof on it now if everything else in within your desires, would be my choice. After purchase, the roof remains of the utmost of my concerns. Water damage to the inside of the coach is one of the hardest to deal with now and in the future. Of course everything else on the check list is of utmost concern also, they must all be kept up, but the roof is still #1 on my list.

Is 200 AMPS a TYPO? This would be very expensive, I would think 200 watts, ie. 16+ amps.

Carl, how far away are you moving the chassis batteries? When moving the chassis batteries away from the starter, you must remember that is a very high amp draw when starting the engine and will require lower gauge wire to compensate for extra distance. This is why the builders place those batteries in stupid places, it is called saving money, the higher gauge wire cost less and copper prices fluctuate, most of the time to a higher range.

Sure looks like AREA 51 to me. And with a label "TEST".

Yes Carl, mine is a different animal, I top out at 12'9", I have a rear camera, air brakes, only 335HP, I sometimes also pull a cargo trailer about 7'5", it's only 19' plus tongue, puts my total length at 64'6". Let's see what else did I miss, oh yes my fully loaded GW is 31,500 plus toad. And thanks for putting up with me, come by this way sometime and I'll treat you to Dreamland.

"There is another reason why big trucks are banned on the northern section of the Parkway. Overpasses have low clearances, especially the older arch bridges seen in Union County, which could mean trouble for high trucks." The above is a quote from the link that you provided, is probably the most valid reason of all, also the excess weight does break down a roadway faster than the lighter traffic, as well the fact the roadway may have not been built to withstand the extra weight for conservation purposes, in other words, if concrete, may only be 8 inches as opposed to 14, and such concerns.

I also use the horse stall mats, when purchasing them I look for thickest ones for stacking purposes, they work well both to keep the tire and ground surface separated, and an added bonus help in the leveling process. I still am using some as old as ten years.

I agree with you Herman, that the newer truck drivers are a different breed, most of them can hardly hold them in the road, much less give all clear signals as they used to do, mostly because of texting on their telephones. In earlier days most of them had CB radios and they talked to each other, a mike is not nearly as distracting as a cell phone where you must dial a number, blue tooth has helped with dialing the phone but not texting. What I would like to see is a mandate that text will not work on any vehicle within four feet of the steering wheel, and with today's technology that will be an easy accomplishment. A camera on the rear of a trailer for backing purposes doesn't work well because watching the camera one will have the tendency to turn the steering wheel in the wrong direction, it is only good for making sure that you don't back into an unwanted obstacle. So in a sense, it can help eliminate a spotter at the rear of the coach, if the driver can learn coordination between the camera and the mirrors.

Well, I guess my post goes unread, YES I HAVE USED ONE, sorry my anglish aint very gud. But since I know how to adjust my mirrors, I won't spend the extra money again. Although the system that I used was wireless with a repeater placed at the back of the coach, but not in the motor compartment. as far as a camera system goes, it worked flawlessly.

Herman, Carl was speaking in the past because of the short circuitry. As in 45 years in the past and short circuited.

Yes a camera on the back of the trailer does help in monitoring what is behind you. Backing up the trailer works OK to make sure that you don't back too far, but not very helpful for positioning the trailer.

A wifi extender should work fine, be sure to check the onstar rates, and allotted time. On star does not work like a lot of people think it does, they just have contract with several cell companies, depends on which tower is closest that they have a contract with. Of course if you can contact an onstar operator, then the wifi should work also. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/onstar2.htm

RedandSilver, I almost said something about that in the above, I used to do the same thing. Simply keep on typing and do not use return when you think you are at the end of line, the post will automatically wrap for you, with the beginning of the first word that does not fit, and will only advance one line instead of two. I think the proper term is pagination.

The double stick tape can be cut using a sharp knife long enough to cut between the bumper and the plaque, Walmart and other box stores sells a product named Goof-Off (maybe Goop-Off) that will not harm the paint but when applied by directions will make easy removal of the remaining residue.

There are cameras available to be used on the back of the trailer, some cheap, some not so cheap. If you are going to use a wireless camera, there are wireless repeaters available that can be mounted at the rear of the motorhome to retransmit the signal on to the front of the coach, if you do not use one of these repeaters, my experience is the signal from the camera is too weak to depend on it for use like you are wanting. One other thought about cameras is that you can also add one on each side at the rear of the coach mounted at or near the roof line, looking directly at the rear of the trailer, aimed to monitor each side activity. My personal thought is also if your mirrors on the coach are not adjusted properly so that you can see far enough behind the trailer, they should be corrected. You can also use a wired camera setup, but that will require some extensive wiring which can be done but really not necessary with wireless technology. Red and Silver, the name reminds me of my old days when I worked with an International dealer as a mechanic, there were two gasoline engines available back then, they were both inline 6 cylinders, red, 165 hp, silver 190 hp. Just memories of course.

That is perfect for dry camping,

The start solenoid should be located near the starter itself, large battery wire going to it and a large one going to the starter unless it is made onto the starter in which case only one large battery wire, also one sometimes two smaller wires, one of these goes to the next control between the key switch, this control should be near the key switch. This control may be checking for all systems including the neutral switch to report all systems are ready before allowing the start solenoid to activate.

In that case, is there a transmission electronic reset? Not likely that the neutral switch has anything to do with the power seats, but will certainly prevent the start solenoid from engaging, and since the neutral light is not lighting. Also the key switch may be showing wear, since other items mysteriously started back to working.

Is the gear selector push button, or slide selector?

Tim, your chassis batteries are the power supply. This will be either a fuse, or relay, or a switch, or a non grounding issue somewhere. Could be as simple as poor ground to the transmission, since the neutral light is not showing up, but I wouldn't think that would be the case since all the other items are not working. I found a bad ground to the ECM on my coach causing havoc in the past. Also, you said that it won't start, does this mean it will crank over with the starter, or does the starter refuse to engage?