kaypsmith

Hooray, hope this means progress, glad to hear that she feels up to it.

Most awnings can be cut down in size, not a hard job, and some jobbers will do this for you. Here is an ebay add for a 10 footer http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carefree-Pioneer-RV-Awning-10-Camel-Fade-complete-with-arms-/121787794267?hash=item1c5b1e435b:g:VX4AAOSwo0JWHrZE&vxp=mtr I have cut this brand and A&E also before.

I don't think that you can simply twist it around while it is mounted. While a tire is dismounted you can ask the tire installer to install a stem that will do what you are asking for. The stem hole is placed on the narrowest side of the rim on all that I have seen, not saying that the rim manufacturer could not place it the other way but I think that would be a rare thing. There are some valve stem extensions that are flexible, but I have have never used or liked them because of the possibility of leakage. Do you have a 6 year old grandson that might reach through the hole and get the tpms started on the threads? I have used make shift holding devices to barely get a valve cap to start, then usually can finish the tightening process with one or two fingers. Good luck getting it together, Kay

Who replaced the carb? If done by a professional, I would return to that facility with complaint. Could be wrong carb., or a faulty one, especially if this is the first time that same symtoms have appeared.

Now I know how to wash dishes in a class B. Thanks again Herman!

Have you looked at runbox.com?

I use a holesaw to penetrate the fiberglass skin, a standard drillbit will try to walk and cause an elongated hole. Also the CB antenna will need to be a top loaded fiberglass antenna, such as a K-40. Bottom or center load antenna's must use a ground plane and the fiberglass with fiberglass or rubber roof will not provide one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/K40-SF-300-Black-3-1000W-Superflex-Tunable-Fiberglass-CB-Whip-Antenna-New-/381323863031?hash=item58c8ac63f7:g:xMcAAOSwjVVVnqny One like this will work great, an all steel does require a ground plane.

Shore water not attached to correct inlet of the two way valve?

We use a nested stainless steel pot and pan set in the kitchen, saves quite a bit of room. Wish someone would invent nested folding chairs.

Actually Ray, the color camera's are usually cheaper than the BW for at least 10 years and will work with either, fortunately now the same has become true with monitors,

LOL,it's probably the valve that controls the valve that controls the valve!!

How old is the stove, and has it ever worked correctly?

Hi Rich, I noticed that also, it may very well be in winterize mode, and that valve closed may be the culprit. I am also looking at the supply line valve in the blue line, it appears to be some makeshift valve that goes straight to the pump and also upward and since it seems to feed the pump then upward, I believe that someone has tried to be inventive and create a bypass such as yours. The left side is normally the inlet side of a shureflow pump, which looks that is the brand. I see no sediment filter close to the pump which to me is a bad idea. Maybe with all the many ideas suggested he will get the right combination and all will work well. Hope he comes back to the forum and lets us know what actually fixed the problem.

Rich, your method will work very well, but look at the pump plumbing in the picture, the pump can't pull water from the top of the tank, only way is if the fill tube goes downward inside the tank like a gasoline tank, this may be the case but not likely. Yes Herman, "HERE'S YOUR SIGN". Same here many times.

Trace the pipe that goes back from the tank, it should be plumbed at or near the top op the FW tank, to the fill valve. There should be two pipes leading away from the valve, one to the tank, the other to the fresh water system in the coach, not to the water pump. It looks as if someone has done some plumbing replacement in your picture, and possibly has made some wrong turns. The two way valve pictured seldom give problems, but as Bill suggested make sure the stem of the valve is moving when the lever is repositioned. Also I noticed an odd situated chrome plated valve next to the floor in the blue pex line, try turning this valve on to see if the tank fills. If it does there probably have been some funny engineering at this point.The picture reveals that the pump is incorrectly plumbed also. Good luck hunting, please PM me if you would like some over the Cell phone guidance, Kay.

I know that this seems like a dumb question, but have moved the valve lever to the left so that it is horizontal with earth?

Yep, you won't need any light bulbs that day.

raptor4070, could you possibly attach a photo "up close and personal" of the lever?

Also the fear of E-85 gasoline goes away with a diesel, and 6 months without cranking is not so bad.

Look at the breaker on the box, if it says 30 amp it has one switch, then he is only providing 30 amps. If you choose the 50 amp, again look at the breaker, if one switch (not one with two that are tied together", yes it is 50 at 120 volts, not 100 total amps at 120. This is NOT 50 AMP RV SERVICE. If the the breaker is 50X2, tied together, and there is a 30 amp receptacle, this is not legal, and with a dogbone attached, it is wired for 240, the dogbone will trip his 50 amp breaker. And as Brett said, with no power cord attached to the receptacle, switch off the 30 amp and on the 50, using a voltmeter, check the two wide blades, if reads 110/120, and the narrowest blade to round reads 110/120, and the opposite wide blade reads 0, you can assume that there is 50 amps 120. Not very efficient for the campground owner, and you will be limited to 50 amps total, and also remember that the dogbone is only rated at 30 amps because that is the size of the male adapter. My preference, look for an adequate campground.

Yup. hope it is not a 220/240 amp circuit breaker at home, if it is, it was not the weather conditions.

Been a Passport member for 6 years, the web sites for the park post when can and can not be used. I average saving 300.00 to 500.00 yearly and am not full time.

HayesFamily, as Joe pointed out, a good fuel additive in the gasoline will help, and as stated in other post, do not forget the generator needs to be exercised often, it will be more vulnerable to e-15, most of them including my Honda state not to use more than e-10. Hoping that e-10 is not fading in your area yet, if so come south more often "LOL". Your coach fuel concerns probably is over founded, a 2003 doesn't use those cheap plastic carbureators and parts. Winterize correctly and enjoy the new to you coach.

I have a short flap mounted between the drive and tag axel, this helps reduce some extra buildup of mud/debris on the tag, then an almost ground dragging flap behind the tag, this helps keep most slinging out the rear. Herman my last three toads were white, I use a nice looking shop blanket over the bumper bungy strapped in place to reduce those rock chips, if you're using transmission pump cooler, don't cover the air opening for your radiator. Also there are some very nice devices that attach to your undercarriage and pull forward to attach to your towbar, these work better than rear full width guards and several other methods, including the old hula skirts.

Good thing is, if lost neutral that something was doing else was doing it's job, or you have only plugged into 30 amp circuits. If you had plugged into a 50 amp and the ATS activated, then you would have sent 240 volts to all activated circuits, probably frying most of them.