modemem

Sold the old motorhome a couple years ago and now have a travel trailer we bought new in 2016. Been an FMCA member about 5 years and will once again be checking in on the forums.

I recently had the same problem. I removed the hot water on/off valve on the sink and found a small piece of plastic partially blocking the water flow. Removed the blockage and reinstalled valve. WaaLaa everything back to normal.

Good information Jbrunson, may save others $295.00 in the future.

Ditto.

When I retired 5yrs ago we decided to look at motorhomes. Went to five different dealers in the Cincinnati/Dayton areas to look for a "good" one at a "cheap" price. We bought our one owner 1997 Rexhall Vision V-29 for less than 20G's with 34,000 miles on it and I must be honest we love it. Sure when we take a walk thru the campgrounds we are in awe of the big beautiful coaches all around us but we soon come back to earth and enjoy our Vision. I have put about 6g's in it (tow bar, supplemental brake, steering stabilizer, new brake lines etc) but everything works, even the dash air and we have towed the Jeep from KY to Virginia Beach via I-64 and travel from KY to N.C. yearly again over the mountains of W. VA. with no problem. Trips to Gatlinburg are also no problem. So it just goes to show there are some good buys out there if you're lucky. Oh and thanks to Rexhall using welds instead of bolts for the frame structure we have some squeaks but not as many as you would expect in an older motorhome.

Ditto on the U bolts and aluminum bar from Home Depot for about $7.00 and it looks great.

We recently added the Wingman add on to our Batwing and now watch a lot more over the air TV. These two websites will come in handy on our future road trips. Thanks for the info.

Try these guys http://www.cabinbright.com/

Thanks Rossboyer, I was planning on a 100w bulb in the water bay to keep the dump valves warm and my fresh water tank is under the bed in back room so that should be OK. A couple gallons of antifreeze in the black and gray tank should get me to Florida and back. Then I can use my new sewer solution and sewer branch I installed to empty the tanks for winterizing upon returning home.

Thanks Herman, That is what I'm going to do.

Hello TBUTLER I will be leaving from Northern KY. Yes I could use the rest stops as I have an old porta potti I could put in the shower stall. I guess another option would be to use RV anti freeze to flush the toilet with instead of water for a couple of days. Hoping some other members familiar with the way Rexhall heats the tanks will have some "experiences" they could share.

I have a 1997 Rexhall Vision V29 and I'm considering going south for the month of January. My waste tanks are "heated" via the coach furnace but I'm wondering how safe it would be traveling in winter with waste water in the tanks? How safe are the dump valves as they are outside of the "heated" area? If any others have suggestions on how to travel safely in the winter I'd be interested in hearing from you. I've heard that putting a 100w light bulb in the dump valve compartment is a good idea? Thanks Bill.

I've been using the RVND 7710 from RM for about 4 years and it has been a valuable companion. It started freezing up anytime the 12 adapter was plugged into the USB port. Running on the battery it still works great but of course the battery is only good for about 3 hours. The USB port seems to be the week point on the RVND 7710 and 7720. Now have a Garmin 2757 as a backup but it is a "car" unit not equipped with setpoints for height, weight, etc.

Hello Trynforpar, This may be of some help to you. http://www.backroadtravelers.com/leavingcampsite.html

We bought new 16" Firestones two years ago and have traveled about 1500 miles on them and could not be more pleased with the tires.

I'm doing the same project on my 1997 Rexhall Vision....Good luck on yours.

I had the same problem after buying my 1997 Rexhall Vision MH. Freezer worked great but the fridge stayed warm. I pulled the unit out far enough to access the flame/vent tube (tube runs vertically from the burner and is about the 1" diameter and about 3ft tall). Removed the clip on diffuser that dangled inside the tube and then pulled steel wool up and down the insde of the tube a few times. The steel wool removes rust and dirt from the inside of the tube so put a rag of some type on the burner to keep dirt from getting into the burner holes. I had the steel wool attached to a 3ft long piece of coat hanger type wire. Re-assembled the unit and set it to run on propane and it worked great on freezer and fridge. It takes very little dirt or rust to screw up the propane operation of the unit and you also want to make sure the motor home is level when parked to acheive optimum cooling. The entire cleaning process can be done by one person and took me about 45 min.