huffypuff

Yes, who ever did it could of back probe that wire at the connector. That wasn't the only sin they did wrong. Wait till you see the ground wires hack on the controller. Thank you Carl. The fuse for the awning is not up front but may be in the back bedroom. The lockout switch lights up so I don't think it's a fuse but who knows. Why would somebody hack the grounds like this? They didn't even match up he same gage wires. The new controller came with 2 new grounding terminals factory made. You can't be too lazy to unbolt the grounds from the frame. Probably the same person that poked the wire.

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Let me say that the house batteries are now doing fine They are staying around 13 volts when not on charge and no load. I won't be afraid to dry camp with them. As for the steps, they are also fixed. I reinstalled the door switch and then went under the coach to trace the brown wire. About an inch from the coach side of the plug there was a spot of green on the wire about the size of a pin hole. Maybe someone at sometime poked it with a test light. I pulled on that wire and it easily broke in half. Repaired that wire and now the steps works as it supposed to. The synopsis of the steps is as follows: Battery power to house and chassis was disconnected to install house batteries. When batteries were reconnected the steps moved in about 1/4 of it's travel. After losing power the steps are supposed to pull in if the door is closed. Because the motor was bad it only went in 1/4 of the way. At one point the motor brought in the door about 2/3 of the way. Fuses all check out as well as power to the plug and the motor would run on the bench but not on the coach. I got a motor and controller to be sure I have all the parts I need. When I installed the new parts the steps went all the way in and stayed. I found out that when I applied a ground to the brown wire the steps went out. I then checked for a ground at the door switch and the switch checked OK. I reinstall door switch after verifying that the brown wire had a voltage drop from 4 way plug underneath to the door switch. I went underneath the coach and found some greenie meanies where maybe someone poked the wire with a test light. Fixed that wire and now steps works. I came to the conclusion that the failed parts was the motor and the wire. The wiring on the controller was butcher so I'm glad to replace it. It probably would of worked with a new motor. The awning is going to be another adventure. I'm leaving on the 15th for Quartzite, AZ then to Desert Hot Springs, CA for a month. Hope I don't have as much fun with the awning.

I put in the same part numbers that came out. The motor does reverse polarity for the direction it's suppose to go.

Yes you are right, the ground must be complete to deploy the steps.

Today during lunch time today I back probed the brown wire on the 4 way plug on the controller. I was getting a backfeed of 10.5 volts. Then I grounded the brown wire with the power probe and the steps deployed like it's supposed to. When I release the ground the steps went back in. Next I popped out the magnetic door switch and found the ground wire to be present and appears to go through the switch. I cut and stripped both wires and found a ground on one wire and voltage backfeed from the controller of about 6 volts. I twisted together the ground and the wire going to the controller and nothing happen. That would be a about a 40% drop from the 4 way plug under the coach to the door switch. I stripped the wires of the door switch to check for continuity and found continuity with the switch away from the magnet and none as soon as near the magnet. So it appears that it has a bad wire from the door switch to the 4 way plug to the controller. To prove it I will run a jumper wire from the ground at the door switch to the controller brown wire. If the steps deploy then I have to look for greenie meanies inside the wiring harness going up to the coach.

Yes the controller has its own grounds, two of them bolted to the frame with a third ground going to them. Hard to figure it needed a ground there since it has a magnetic door switch. What I'm going to try next is pull the switch out and see what I find.

Well I got the new parts in and the new motor runs good with the power probe. I can run the steps in and our with no problem using the power probe so that half of the battle solved. Plugged in the new controller to the coach and steps went all the way in and don't come back out regardless if door is open or not. I tested voltage from the coach plug Red battery power good, white switch power good, yellow ignition power good. The brown wire I didn't know what to test there but just found out that it supposed to be a ground when the door opens. Also I found out that the steps will not deploy or work until it first see a ground at the brown wire. Looks like my work is not done as I said, what could go wrong?

You should if your comfortable working with electricity is go inside the transfer switch box and tightening all wiring lugs. Sounds like you have a loose connection in there. If a wire or lug get hot enough, it can fry the entire transfer switch.

As of last night both parts are here. What could go wrong?

That would mean the Aladdin is dead check fuses.

Yes, the step is a very simple design. A motor that turns a flat gear plate which push/pull a link on a bell crank that raises or lowers the steps through a network of linkage . The controller on the other hand I have little ideal. I haven't got to the patio awning yet, I had enough until I go south.

Looks like bad motor after all probably the internal gears or windings. Even though it ran on the bench it wasn't fast and may have internal problems. After reinstalling the motor it still wouldn't run unless I hook up my 900 amp auto jump box. Then the motor wouldn't bring the steps all the way up but will bring them down. To make matters worse, I think it burnt out the controller. I ordered both the controller and motor on Amazon and will install and test the operation of the motor first. Once that pass I will plug in the old controller and see if it will kick on. If not I will install the new controller. If the old controller works then I will return the new controller. These parts are expensive. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019QGLWT6/ref=ppx_od_b_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The steps moves freely with the motor out. These steps require very little lubrication as per Lippert Coach Step manual page 4 https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/Steps/CCD_0001619.pdf

I couldn't get enough ump to the motor using the power probe with 50 foot extension. I had lots of fun removing the motor with six small spacers on three long bolts.It appears to run fine on the bench so I wire brushed the gear and applied a coating of anti-seize .

I checked the monitor panel tonight and the float charge rate is 13.9 Volts 0 amps. I guess that means they are fully charged or close to that.

I know the steps themself is not jammed as I can shake them back and forth with some play. I will have to take the motor off and bench test it and see if anything is binding. Looks like it has to travel all the way in before it will come out. I looked underneath and I can see the big gear move with the only thing stopping it is the motor itself.

Yes it works with the Aladdin monitoring system. Don't confuse the monitor with the monitoring system as they are two different things. You will use the 6 pin connector and hook up power and ground to the same ignition wires as the old monitor. You will have to take the dash apart to remove and install the monitor.

OK during lunch I shut down chassis and house batteries and check all house batteries with voltmeter. They all check out at 6.5 - 6.6 volts. Turn main switch back on and voltage reading is 13.2 volts. The basement heater turn on and voltage dropped half a volt to 12.7 volts. It appears that the batteries are good but the basement heater draws lots of amps. As for the step, while I was looking at the control panel and I heard the front step. I went to look and it closed from 3/4 to about 1/3. I'm hope I can disconnect the motor run it in or out to reset it. That has to be done tomorrow.

I tried that this morning and heard a faint buzz but no movement. Later today I'm going to shut all batteries off and try again when turned back on.

This morning the charge was float 14.0 volts at 0 amps. I disconnected shore power and the batteries was at 13.5 volts and dropping. I gave it an hour to see how it goes. When I checked later the basement heat kicked on and batteries was reading 12.3 volts under that load. I plugged the shore line in and charger went to 15 volts and 85 amps bulk charge. Later when basement heat has cycle off charge rate dropped to 14.5 volts absorb charge. Looks like I be load testing them all individually tomorrow.

The aladdin is the system and weldex is the monitor no longer being made. Both LCD and old are weldex and have two 4 pin connectors and one 6 pin connector. He will use the 6 pin connector. They both have up and down for rear camera. It also have the bracket to mount the flat LCD where larger tube comes out. No way to see if the aladdin system works until you see the picture. I was surprised to find out mine has color cameras.

After they charge 24 hours will see what voltage the batteries come up to. If not all fully chage in that time it be time to take them apart. Rich i thought about them being watered down as part of the problem and three months shelt life also. I have to give it time before I panic. I added the water during installation when it was easy.

I decided to replace the house batteries because they are 6 years old and we will be dry camping in Quartzites, AZ the last week of January. Everything worked before removing the batteries yesterday or when last parked a few months ago. When I went to install the new batteries today I noticed the front steps was only about 3/4 on the way out. Odd I thought as how they could move without battery power. I cut all power to the batteries before disconnecting them and reinstall the same as the old ones with clean cables. I got four 6 volts GC2 types of about 210 amp hours batteries. They are wired in series and parallel to make 12 volts and about 420 amp hours with temperature sensor. The batteries I got from batteries plus bulbs was in stock but dated 09/18 which makes them 3 months old. I didn't expect that to be a problem and the fact that each battery was about 10 oz low which I added distilled water. When I got it all install I turned on the main switch and it had only 11.6 Volts. I plugged in shore power and the inverter/charger started charging at a rate of 15.1 volts and 85 amps bulk charge. I went through setup and made sure it's set to 400 or less and flooded batteries. I also set the search watts to 10 watts which has something to do with taking out of sleep mode. I'm not sure of the setting but choices are 3 watts to 50 watts. If someone know a best setting let me know. After charging a few hours I check on it and now down to 13.9 volts 35 amp float charge. I hope to see better after charging overnight. The front step did not turn back on and neither did the patio awning. The CO detector was flashing orange but turn to solid green when I checked for propane flow at the stove. I turned on the ignition, open and closed the door flip the dash switch to reset the steps but nothing. Tomorrow I will try to reset it direct at the step motor as owners manual refers to sensor and fuses. One for the motor 25 amp and another for the sensors 7.5 amps. I gotta get that fixed as can't go anywhere with steps down.

Sorry to tell you this but the monitor picture tube is dead. You can get a replacement LCD monitor kit for the aladdin system. I'm replace the one on my coach but can't find the link right now. Another way to go is get a silverleaf replacement system. Edit: Found link for monitor, Let me know if you need advice to install http://www.rvcams.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rvcams&Category_Code=18&Product_Code=WDRV-7063M-UPGD&Search=&Sort_By=newest&Per_Page=40