huffypuff

He messed up big time. You supposed to test it with tailgate down and jack slightly raised. That way if it came loose no damage is done. Also looking at the release handle he should of known the position that handle was in. Yes you must keep everything lubed but there is other factors involved.

I stopped at John Deere and went to the agriculture parts counter for non stick spray. The parts person have a motorhome also and and very aware of the problem the slide pushing and pulling over nylon blocks as he had same set up. He got me a can of spray and told me to spray the bottom of the slide with it out that rubs the blocks and let it dry. Then run the slide in and out then apply a second coat. That will get it started and will run smoother and more quiet. Apply a coating once a month and will even notice after prolonged use that the slide will soon operate faster. He also says I can spray the gears and tracks with it too. https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Graphite-Lubricant-TY25797.html

The equipment will cost you about $2,500. That means they are charging you about $4,000 for labor.

That should be under warranty no matter how small it is.

That stuff looks like a winner as I can coat the bottom of the slide and not wash off or attract dirt.

The motor gearbox is 26:1 and the ragbox is about 50:1 that puts lots of torque to the final gear. If you hold the switch something will break in short order.

I replaced the bolt with like grade factory bolt. I believe my DR slide is dragging on the nylon blocks too hard causing the hole in the square driveshaft to to longgrate until bolt brakes. Looking for solution to clean or lube the nylon blocks. As for the bolt I can not confirm if it's a shear bolt or not but that one is breaking and the others are fine.

I'm thinking the clunking noise is the ragbox worm gear jumping the brass gear if your talking about the bed slide. I had to replace the ragbox because the brass gear was worn out. New box don't clunk yet.

The motor stops by what we all know as overload. A grade 8 bolt is one heck of a shear pin but my dining slide manage to break it. Lots of stress on it as that 12 foot long slide rides on long nylon blocks You can't get to them to clean and lube but can only keep the bottom clean with slide out.

The motor not so powerful but the gearbox is. The motor may be turning 26 to 1 gearbox and is 1/2 the size of a gas car starter motor.

I was lucky that mine have a square driveshaft that I can turn with a crescent wrench until it lined up. I used a grade 8 bolt with a lock nut. I keep a spare bolt and nut with me for next time.

I had that problem on my dining room slide. The rear coupler is just a 3/8 through bolt and it will bend until it breaks. Then the slide is out of sync and won't move until the bolt is replaced. I think it served as a shear pin if something jammed the gears. Check for a bent or broken connecting coupling bolt.

I have flooded Duracell gc2 and they performed great. I got them for 89 each.

Front grill looks Dodge the hubcap don't seem to match anything I seen.

The load management must be seeing something wrong on 50 amps. check from the pedestal to the cord to transfer switch for opens. If ok there continual to the circuit breaker box for opens.

We towed our 2012 SRX4 for a few years and thousands of miles with no problems. Just unlock the shifter with engine off and put in neutral. Requires starting the engine every few hundred miles to refresh the transmission lubrication. We have AWD model as FWD you have to use the tow dolly. You can't dolly tow the AWD SRX. .

check to see if you have a inline screen like the one inb the link below. https://www.baldwinfiltersrus.com/baldwin-pf7994-nylon-mesh-fuel-strainer.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiIXgm7zh4QIVBMNkCh3EdQUyEAQYAyABEgILBvD_BwE

If your having trouble be sure to check temperature. By pressing the tech button can check battery and two inverter internal temperature.

This is a example of the settings of my ME-RC 50 Shore Max: 30 AMP Yes I have 50 AMPS but this seems to be the default Search Watts: 5W This should be set to the minimum to turn on inverter from standby Battery Amp Hr: 400 amps In my case I have four 6 volts x 110 amps each = about 400 amp hr Battery type: Flooded There is an online manual if you need more help.

I paid the extra cost for Michelins and don't regret it one bit.

Yea! You're good to go!

Whats on that slide?

I always give 24 hours before judging temperature of refrigerator / freezer.

As promise, here are pictures of rebuilding the frame and mattress support. Captions will be under pictures The left baseboard has to be installed first. The left baseboard installed. It was taken off to gain access to motor when slide was in. I installed a clamp to wiring to keep them from the tracks and stops. The 120 line got pinched in the stop at least one time. Lucky the wiring wasn't damaged. This is the partition backside to show the frame. I'm using longer screws because the shorter ones pulled out on the right side. With the partition installed, it forms a box for a cover. Cover is installed Damage platform end Start of repair to platform by shooting #8 x 3/4 screws into the edge. Trim on end removed. Trim to be reinstalled after fastening loose plywood. I made a safety prop out of scrap trim even though the struts are strong enough to hold the 12 inch thick foam queen mattress up. Everything is back together except for a couple of touch up.

I check mine as I have a 2006 with adjustable pedals and it has a metal dust cap in that spot. You can probable get similar at the hardware store.