huffypuff

My inverter is working off default temp of 25C so the charge rate will be different than your inverter. Right now it's 13.4 volts 0 amps but kicked up to 27 amps when the basement heat turned on.

BINGO, I unplug the r11 BTS terminal at the inverter and the remote said it defaulted to 25C and the float charge went to 13.2 volts and 27 amps. The manual states the temperature sensor is used for absorb and float charge rate. I will be ordering a new battery temperature sensor as the inventor thought the batteries were hot.

Just think I was in Nam 48 years ago with them wanting to kill me and others everyday. Now we reward them by buying products made there.

Thanks Jim but I need to find what's wrong with it first. I was fooling with the remote and was able to get temperatures this pushing the tech button and rotating a knob. The temperature for the transformer is 17C , the temperature for the FET is 15C and the batteries temperature is stuck on 151C. There is no way the batteries is 300+ F as it is cool to the touch so I'm thinking the battery sensor is bad. What I need to do is unplug the sensor from the inverter and see if the temperature changes and or I get a fault light. I don't know why I don't get the fault light at 151C or why the the batteries don't go dead at such a low charge. This morning the batteries were at 12.7 volts

No luck with the longer reset When 12 volts was restored the remote read 12.5 volts. When I plugged to shore power the charge went to straight to absorb this time at 13.9 volts and 25 amps. That lasted a couple of hours then it went the float battery voltage and 0 amps. I believe the problem is internal. Tomorrow I'm going to disconnect everything and check connection inside and out.

Nicole is very shy and most of the time for the two days we had her she lives under the bed. She warm up to DW at times not yet to me. She and Tuffy has a growling match as she don't want Tuffy stealing her food and he don't like her present. Give it time, lots of time. No matter what anybody tells you Black cats are the best cats to have Tuffy is now 8 years old and we had him for 7.

Yes I remember float mode being in low 13's before this concern. I did a reset before like you said but only for a few minutes as per online manual needs 30 seconds. I try 30 minutes and go from there.

One of our cat Suzie that we had less than a year escaped in Caliente Springs Resort. After a good while of trying to find her we had to leave her. The office and nearby neighbors were notified as well as 24petwatch.com since she has a chip. Tuffy is doing fine and knows what to expect when the engine starts. DW picked up another black cat like Tuffy from local shelter. This one is a girl and she named her Nicole.

What I found there is no difference between shore power and generator. The charger is supposed to be 100 amps I seen up to 14 volts 80 amps bulk then 13.8-13.6 absorb 40-20 amps then battery voltage of 12.6 volts and 0 amps with no load. When the basement heat kicks on I see 25+ amps but could be a draw instead of a charge. The house batteries were installed 12/18 and have a date sticker of 9/18. I'm unable to babysit it but after overnight the readout for the batteries is still 12.6 and zero amp draw.

To continue this topic I did more research of ME-2012 problem. I started the generator and it went went quickly to bulk charge for a few minutes then to absorb charge for about 4 hours. The it went to float charge showing battery voltage and 0 amps. I shut off the generator and plugged the shore power in and did the same thing. I factory reset the ME-RC standard remote with no results. Then I hard reset the ME-2016 with all power disconnected from it. When I restore battery power and plugged in the shore line the charger went quickly to bulk then to absorb for a couple of hours then to float showing battery voltage and 0 amps. That is the same as it did when running the generator. The inverter and charger works but not float charging anymore. I remember when fully charge the panel would read charge completer and the standby light would blink. I don't know why the float charge is not working. Maybe keep an eye on it and see if the battery goes dead.

The basement heater is 12 volts. Cargo heater with blower and tank heat pads in the basement. The coach is plugged into 120 volts 20 Amp max and I set the monitor to 20 amp. I'm not sure if it's float charge but on standby in battery saver mode.

I guess you mean the left front outside compartment? You have to look inside a big removal panel and the label is inside it of what fuse is what. Otherwise go under the coach and test the yellow with the ignition on and off.

I have the ME2012 and after setting on on charge for awhile it goes into battery saver mode. I don't fully understand how it works but when setting with no load the panel 12.6 volts 0 amps as if the charger is off. When the basement heater kicks on the voltage is still 12.6 but may read 37 amps. I would think the voltage would bump up also. The battery appears to holding a charge.

This link will help you troubleshoot https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/Steps/CCD_0001619.pdf After looking at trouble I believe that the yellow wire don't have power with the ignition switch on. That will draw the step in. I check further for the other problem. Be sure the yellow and red wire not working reverse at module plug.

I had to fix my step and it's Coach step part of Lippert.

Yes this is adding to the confusion, I just don't wanna steer anyone to inferior tires. I bought a new trailer in 2007 that had Chinese made tires on them. They were egg shape and shook so bad that the vibration can be felt in the tow vehicle. They were bad right out the gate and took me two weeks to get the manufacture to replace. They swapped the tires with another new trailer so someone else will get stuck with them. I took the replacement off and kept them for spares. Not worth running inferior tires.

We are making many assumption here and as a concern consumer I have a few question to your question. If a tire is rated at 65 mph, how can it be consider an highway tire as most of us drive slightly above 60 mph? Is that tire (G159) is being driving near it's limit. The tires were original equipment and many blew on the highway on a rv not necessary overloaded but weight at 4 corners as I done. Is it possible the tires met minimum spec for the weight it carries nearing it's limit? I found that running slightly higher tire pressure than the manufacture label recommended pressure made no difference of all 6 tires wearing out on the outside edges at 30K. I don't have that problem with the replacement tires with the manufacturer's recommended pressure that is lower. Could it be that the original wasn't built as strong as the replacement tires? I didn't say the tires were defected but will say that I don't believe that they are designed for the service that a motor coach demands and that is the root of the complaint.

I traced the wiring from the dash switches to the outside switch through the awning control relay module. All of that checked good 12 volts and ground. I then went to the cover for the motor and was able to run the awning in and out using the power probe. I took the cover off and sure enough bad connection inside again and one dead bee. The connection is as following in the cover. The main red and black wires goes from the control module to the cover terminals. The cover terminals then has jumpers wires to the motor. Since I had it home I was able to use electric clean spray followed by dielectric grease. Hopefully that will take care if the connection problem and is working fine now.

I have no problem leaving mine in D-6 and in economy mode. At least you have the 3000mh transmission not the 2500 the 6.7 has. When I had a 5.9 coach it had the 450 trans and I could tow with it.

That would be 700 to 800 ft pounds of torque with the 6.7 L. HP means nothing if you so slow going up a grade.

I noticed that compare the Michelin to the G670 RV Badyears, I end up running lower inflation without uneven wear. Equals to softer ride also.

Whats the difference between the Ventana and the the Ventana LE?

i concur. Somehow I got a pressure/weight chart online when I got the Michelin. http://www.rvtirepressure.com/assets/images/extrapages/michelin_rv_load_inflation.pdf

I see your point but I was pointing out my experience that similar to others running G159 that Goodyear later upgraded design to G670 RV. I brought a 2006 class A with only 17,000 miles on it and already the factory installed improved Goodyear G670 RV design showed fatigue. I kept the right pressure in them and about 30,000 miles the tires were so fatigued I had to replace them. All the tires were worn out especially the outside edges. You would think the tires were run low on air but that wasn't the case. I think the tires was not made heavy enough for the weight it had to carry. The G670 had a ply rating of H and and the same size tire in Michelin ply rating of J. That made the difference as since I replaced the tires I drove 40,000 miles and has at about 60% of the threads left with the wear being even. I also noticed the rv industry standard now leans to Michelin tires and I believe there is a reason for it. After all the rv manufactures handles the complaints if the tires are not as expected. I stand by what works for me.

That cage is a normal install from factory laying flat in front the swinging rock guard. Protects the radiator from rocks and stones. Don't leave home without it.