huffypuff

Sorry not the same place, just a few blocks away I think run by same family. before morning coffee at 5:30 am

Wow Brett I just looked at your link and we will leaving for Caliente Springs Resort at the end of this week. We will be staying there until March and leaving just before the rally you posted. Supposed to be a nice place I let you know what I think. small world http://www.calientesprings.com/

Minimum level in the reservoir is fine if it is cold as that is more likely the cold mark. If you fill it to the max it could spill over when you go up the next steep mountain grade. My coach found its normal level right between the full and minimum mark cold. It is good to know I'm not polluting the road.

If you click the picture of my coach above my signature to enlarge you can clearly see the Vietnam Veteran sticker and ribbon. From one veteran to many, Thank You!

Sorry I missed one question Herman. I still had to add heat to the stuck pin to get it moving and that is after I had the other end of the cylinder removed off it's pin. Like I said, I was lucky I didn't have to remove the whole exhaust brake from the coach. The high temperature anti-seize spray helped.

Herman, I would assume that Jacobs = Jake and both is compressing brake. Jake brake is a better and on more expensive coaches. I only have a HR. My coach exhaust brake is made by Pacbrake but is an external exhaust brake never the less. This was on my checklist as well Rich and my wife is working on her checklist. I just seen her load 4 extra pocketbooks not including the one she will carry with her. We are less than a week to leaving for 2 1/2 months adventurer.

I imagine that is also good stuff but I couldn't find it except for eBay. I think it was 9.99 plus 4.00 shipping for 4.5 oz. I think I also seen it as a Superlube product for a little less but still have to order it. The stuff I got is made by Permatex and is much the same as whats used on spark plugs, exhaust bolts and O2 sensors. This is a lighter penetrating spray that is good from -60 to 1600 F. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Anti-Seize-Compound-Lubricant-10-oz-ITW-Global-Brands/_/R-BK_7651150_0006382899 Another thing I found out since I use the coach intermittently I'm suppose to spray ever 4 months not once a year. I think commercial vehicles are the one that fall into continual use to be done once a year.

I'm getting the coach ready for long haul to Desert Hot Springs, CA and one thing I did was physical check the exhaust brake. When I tried to move the lever it was stuck open. I know I didn't lube it for awhile like last year about this time. Surprise! Maybe it was getting seized all along but needed to be taking apart to get it moving again. In this case it was the pin that connected the cylinder to the flap arm. Anyway I was lucky to get the cylinder off after heating, spraying and working it back and forth. For now on I be sure to use high temperature anti-seize spray good for at least 1600 F and won't run off. You can get it at NAPA but it's expensive at 15.95 for 10 oz spray can. Now I know to spray before any long adventure. I recommend everybody to check their exhaust brake with long enough screwdriver to move the lever. Then spray all pins and lever shaft with the high temperature anti-seize spray.

Yes Herman, it would be thought that a brake hose or caliper was the blame but the OP replace them to fix this problem. It could have due to age a rust spot on the line that may or may not leak. I remember my 93 Southwind Oshkosh chassis had the master cylinder and electric motor underneath. It wasn't easy to even check the fluid level as you had to remove the cap and hold a mirror over the master cylinder to see it. Time to raise the coach high with the leveler, put jack stands under and inspect all lines front to rear.

Brett, I worked on a truck one time that had a flatten steel line from a tow hook. It slowed the fluid but didn't stop the flow. The brakes on that side could be bled and release the caliper but not enough flow for even braking. I had a 93 Oshkosh chassis on the Southwind DP with hydro brakes and it didn't have ABS.

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Bill, we all will miss you.

ehoger, I don't know where you are located but if you can take it in for factory service in either Decatur, Indiana or Coburg, Oregon it maybe covered by warranty. 800-509-3417 is contact for both location. Please be aware that if you had vibration since new, it could wear out suspension and steering parts. Three set of mirrors is just the start of problems if allow to continue.

Jim Two things and they both go to the same problem, worn parts. First the Sheppard gearbox is adjustable. It just has to be taken apart and shimmed by the rebuilders. That is less expensive than a new gearbox. Second worn bushings on a 10 year old coach will give you problems. There is always somebody claiming to make better and I know those supposedly beefier bushing will wear out as well. I can't begin to tell how many bushings on trucks and trailers I replaced when I worked fleet. That included greased bushings that supposedly not supposed not to wear out. Jim at Source Engineering didn't think of something new, just made replacement ones a little beefier. I was almost fooled by his replacement fan blade but that is another subject.

dkreuzen, I believe more recent gearboxes have quality control problem as new wasn't shimmed properly from the factory new. It can be mass production to meet demand and same shim was thrown into all gear boxes. You know how that would work and the result would not be equal over the entire line. That would send a few out well over spec and those few will complain. You said that cross brace helped you kind of prove that your problem wasn't the gearbox alone. The only problem I had with steering on my coach is the Goodyear 670RV tires. I replaced them with Michelin and with about 8,000 miles on them still drive like a dream.

I looked at the handle on my coach front door and looks like the one picture here. At least the outside of it looks the same. http://www.trimarkcorp.com/en/zPlatform.aspx?platformid=144&categoryid=12

They must of changed the design on your Ambassador. My front entrance door has double strikers and door latch that moves release rods for each of them. I guess I can't help you comparing my coach to yours. I know I have to keep the latches lubed as it will require more pull on the handle to get the latches to release.

dkreuzen I don't agree that the 8 bag Roadmaster has issues with wandering. What those two threads you posted was worn steering gear boxes. They had a choice to either rebuild the non external adjustable Sheppard gear box or change it to a external adjustable TRW gear box. The Sheppard box is shimmed internally to take out play and must be done correctly by the rebuilder or it can wander. Another problem area is keeping clean fluid up to the proper level and changing the hydraulic filter. I've seen just low fluid shake the steering wheel violently because of sucking air. It's a good idea to flush the fluid as needed to prevent the above worn gear box. My coach 8 bag Roadmaster chassis has the Sheppard gear box and do not wander as the gear box is not worn out. There is no ride enhancing kits installed and the coach steers like a dream.

You can also buy a prewired harness to make the job easier. I should of done this to my 1993 Southwind as it had a Ford push pull headlight switch and floor dimmer. I always hated how dim those headlights were but lasted until I traded for what I got now.

Above is how to add the relays. Note the power wiring to coil number 86 of relay comes from dimmer switch.

Good catch of why the switch is designed that way Rich.

DPDT On-On Six terminals. This is how I'm understanding the switch you mention works. You feed battery power to both middle terminals and the load to L1 through L4 as needed. Feed B+ at 2 and 5. Park and dash lights at 4 and 6. Headlights at 3. You first need to find which is positive power and what the other wires feed by applying power to them one at a time.

You say the wiring looks very suspect to you. Do you see any burnt marks on the connectors or wiring there? The reason why I ask is many models during the year of your coach is that the switch carried the load of headlights right through it. It is very common for both the switch and wire terminal block to burn up. The fix for that is a new switch and terminal block pigtail.

I believe Frank may be right about that but a sure way to test is to unplug from shore power and plug in a 120v lamp. If not try pressing the inverter button in the hall on the control panel and see if that works. You should also see the control panel of your microwave come on at the same time.

I believe on one conversion I read that that person swap the wiring for inverter from front outlet to fridge wiring. I believe it was a Monaco coach. Otherwise you will have to add an inverter. I see if I can find it.