huffypuff

Congratulation on your new RV and welcome to the forum.

There is no interest to pay on debit cards of course you have to have the cash. My wife uses her miles VISA card plenty but then again I have to make sure to pay it off every month. There can always be that one time it gets misplaced or forgotten.

Pull the headlight switch and look at the plug into it. If either it is burnt replace both the headlight switch and pigtail with a new plug in the harness.

When I wired up my brake controller a couple of years ago I ran into an issue. The coach wiring was commanding trailer brakes with foot off the brake and no trailer brakes with foot on the brakes. I called Monaco and did not get an answer and finally found a wiring diagram on the Internet search. In the driver side front compartment a relay was wired wrong. I just stumble upon a tech bulletin that Monaco didn't share with me. http://www.usgear.cc/utb_mon060605.htm

You also going to need a 5 gallon pail to drain about 19 quarts into it and a place to recycle that fluid.

I have American Family and they covered my windshield when it got busted on Alaska trip. I had to pay the deductible.

i got tires (p245/70-16 ATS2) for my toad for $150 each minus $70 since I brought 4 at Costco. They are Michelin and Costco never heard of the program but I saved anyway.

When leaving the RV park I usually don't dump the gray or black tanks until the rest stop right before home. That was the black is well broken up and the gray flushes the hose afterwards. Before I leave the house on the next trip I fill the fresh water tank to the gill. I don't have any problems with my tank monitors using them this way.

I called my coach builder and there was a plug under the dash to wire a brake controller to. It already had a relay and everything else that was needed. Call your manufacture of your coach and you may have the same.

Medico, Cat got fed up with the emission and dropped out of over the road application. Carl, both vehicle are a great choice with their engines so it would depend what you are looking for in a coach.

Sound more like the drain as water pressure line would always have a leak when pump is on or hooked to faucet. One idea is to fill a bucket and pour into shower pan and if it leaks without water turned on then you found it. If not the next step is to splash the wall with water.

I think it's best to go inside the station and ask before you pump. They should know.

This is an election year, watch all the gas and diesel prices shoot back up as soon as the election is over. It's a political racket you wouldn't believe.

I have to go through and stop at mountain passes to get to the shorts and golf shirts.

Update: Back feeding the circuit that sets the relay in the heater can cause the 5 amp fuse to pop. No fun taking off the three wing nuts in left front panel outside compartment fuse box.

You want a 12 volt heater in the plumbing compartment so if you get into cold area you won't end up with frozen pipes. Most coaches comes with it in the last 10 years.

The bypass switch is a good idea and I may install one. Yes when it fails you find out too late and frozen plumbing. Lucky we was at Walmart dry camping and used their toilets.

Carl when you call the toll free number you get something in between both places so I'm not sure where the part came from. I think the last person I talked to was in Oregon. He the one who told me how to bench check the heater and inform me that the Weldex monitor is a piece of c**p brand new. To sensitive to interference and the reason why the cameras take turns going out and coming back on. No fix for the monitor or replacement just replace the whole system. $$$$$$$$$$$$ Kay thanks for the offer but I set that one aside for emergency use only. Better yet I'm going to order a replacement heater from Camping World that has the built in thermostat and wire it in the same location. It only cost $50.00 and same 300 W about the same size. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/12v-direct-hookup-ceramic-heater-fan/56984 I will be better prepare this winter when I go over the passes to try full time life for a couple of months in Southern California.

If you follow my topic last Christmas Holiday season http://community.fmca.com/topic/6353-our-holiday-travel-misadventure-so-far/, you would know about the basement heater failure and pipe freezing on the first leg of our trip dry camping in twin Falls, ID. No way to get a part quickly so I had to order from Monaco while at Las Vegas and have shipped to North Carolina hopefully before I arrive there. In the meantime I travel south to stay thaw out as I knew I was lucky not to have any damage. Now I paid big money for that heater box (Cargo Heat) plus shipping and it worked when I first installed it for the few times needed on the east coast. Got chased from there by a blizzard. Then I cross southern California and up into Oregon and the basement heater failed again. Well I got no warranty on the heater just sorry but you must check the wiring in your coach. Finally last week I got one tech at Monaco to tell me how to bench test it. I took them both in my shop and found that they both fail the bench test. No surprise there as I knew they didn't work in the coach and the wiring checked out. I first took the old one apart and remove the heating element and ohm it and it check out as well as overheat switch. I knew the relay worked as it kicked in with the 12 volt signal wire. I put it back together and it work like it's supposed to. I installed that one in the coach and tested the operation there and works OK so one down one to go. I took the new one apart and ohm it out the same way and found one wire broken to the overheat switch and a bad diode. I fixed the wire but could only bypass the diode as I have nothing like that. I put that one to the side for a spare in case of an emergency. The bottom line is that these basement heaters are not reliable as the should be and Monaco not offer a warranty even though I ask them for one. Instead the sent me on a wild chase testing wiring when all alone it was bad heaters. I even had to search and find the wiring diagram on the internet. So again with another new company owning Monaco/Holiday Rambler it's same old attitude of not caring.

If your welding in the battery compartment make sure you remove all of the batteries so not to cause an explosion from the sparks and gasses. Of course you should have the coach unplugged from shore power. I don't think you have to worry after all electric and batteries are removed. Good point Rich, turn off both isolate switches for both house and chassis batteries.

Welcome to the forum rvharry and thanks for the post.

I used wire ties to attach to rear ladder and suction cups for inside windshield. Works for me.

Some radios have a 1 amp fuse inside the radio. If you replace it and it blows again right away the radio needs service by a radio tech. A test light will tell if you have power to the radio if you unplug the harness from the back. Usually red wire is 12 volts and black is ground.

I had a TV that had colors like that and turned out to be the TV itself. I would take it back to the dealer if I was you.

Salt Lake City to Junction City is 783 miles or about one tank of fuel. TB is right about going to the builders as they will use a team to repair or modified your coach. They know your coach inside and out better than anyone. It's not too late to go there as I travel the area many times in Dec - Feb with little problems.