jleamont

I removed my Propane tank since there is nothing in the coach operating on propane. My fuel tank and propane tank shared a bay under the coach (1st bay behind the steer axle). This bay was only accessible from the drivers side for propane filling. On the opposite side was a hinged door bolted closed with my other fuel fill which has a small door to access that side fuel fill. I fabricated a door latching system so I can now use that bay where the propane tank once sat for storage and access it from both sides. I installed a diamond plate floor where the propane tank once sat, so I now have a full floor in that bay, while it goes all the way up the fuel tank, both sides of the fuel tank and behind it are open, you can see the ground and I would like to seal it all up. My question; this bay is still open around the fuel tank portion, is there any reason I shouldn't close it off now to keep dirt and unwanted pests out? My fuel tank has a vent that discharges below the floor level already. I wasn't sure if it was open for air circulation around the fuel tank? But the more I look at it driving down the road wont yield any air in there as far as I can tell. I believe it was open for the old propane tank. Any thoughts if I should seal it up? Latch photos http://community.fmca.com/gallery/category/1-members-gallery/

found it; Joe, When you do pull your starter open up the solenoid. Check and clean all contact points. Easily done with the starter out and my prevent starting problems down the road. Herman, can you elaborate on this?

I am sure it was Herman that recommended taking it apart and cleaning it, adding dielectric grease to contacts.....maybe before it fails so it will last longer. I will have to wait for him to chime in. I remember reading a post on it before.

Yep, that's what I use, along with Freshcab.

Bill, on your insulation, did you build a duct to cover over the new insulation or was one already present? I have heard (not sure how true) but the refrigerator requires a duct to properly direct the heat up to the roof vent. Most coach builders do not install that and just toss all of the heat around behind the unit i.e. up onto the roof vinyl, against exposed insulation and wood which escalates the possibly of fire from so much heat back there. So basically when you set the unit in the wall there is a duct that it sits into and all of the flammable material is covered over by tin ducting. Just curious, mine didn't have any, I had charred wood. Tim, sounds like you are on top of it. I am unfamiliar with the product you have installed. Just be careful with those Norcold units, they are very volatile.

Herman, I know I read that somewhere else before. What was the fix to get in front of the failure?

Glad to hear Michael!! Enjoy your trip

The last time I replaced one of these it was simple. I picked up the gasket from my local rv dealer. I do not remember the cost but it wasn't much. Just bring the make and model of your AC unit in with you, no seams gasket. The hardest part was removing the old gasket and glue residue from the bottom of the AC unit. Blake, follow Brett's advice and save yourself the need to purchase a torque wrench.

Bill, I have no idea, I will have to ask. I looked at it and it looked great to me. Definitely a heck of a lot better than it did before, his charcoal grey was browning and the clear was gone for a few years.

Blake, the one in my bedroom had the same thing happen. Snug it down now but be careful not to over tighten. Look up your AC units torque spec and property torque it. They can be damaged by over tightening.

Haha, I asked the same question. Apparently that is what Tiffen paints their coaches with. I guess they make a automotive paint also.

Bill, help me understand. His coach is painted with Sherwyn Williams Martin senior. He ordered the same product in spray can (clear only from a body shop supply house) cleaned off the dead clear, shined up the paint and reapplied clear.

Mine still looks good. No issues yet. When it does it will go somewhere and be handled. I'm not a paint guy.

The ISL has no flat spots on it, very difficult to locate a suitable location.

Yea, my friend (same guy as above) just recleared his in his driveway. His looks great!

Lyle, if you were up this way, my friend is a body shop manager for a large GM dealer. They take on coach work, he is also a FMCA member as well as the dealership owner. Up here there is slim pickings for paint booths to handle such a job.

Mike, I'm not sure of your mechanical aptitude, if you have ever done some work on your cars you will figure that coach out. What you don't know just ask on here. I spent most of my younger life as a truck technician and a technical trainer/writer for a public utility. Beyond me with the other members is an incredible amount of experience and training. They are always willing to jump in and help. I'm sure if you have the basic skills someone on here can walk you through it. plus if you join FMCA plan on attending seminars at their annual and semi annual family reunions. While I haven't attended one yet that is where you will get the knowledge to keep that on the road and operating properly.

Thanks

I drilled mine where all 6 meet.

Herman, I am always willing to jump in and lend a hand, hold my beer and please keep it cold. Obedb, I will be meeting Kay that day for BBQ in AL. We will have a toast for you

Bill, glad to hear you can get to it easily. I have found the hardest part of mine is the engine sits so low I struggle to reach it, I end up with my face smashed into something and my feet sticking up in the air in the bedroom. Never fails the DW comes in and starts talking to me, then gets mad when I don't answer or carry on a conversation and goes back inside the house.

Good info Bill. I hope someday Banks begins to make parts for the ISL. Mine is in the same area as the illustration, by manifold design of the ISL its a similar location. Just horrible to access, CAC piping and air intake piping inner twined over on that side.