jleamont

Ok, I will seek it out for the trip home half fill the tank with water and 2 quarts of HP and head south. Once I'm home I will empty it. thanks guys! joe

Photos are simple in the gallery and attach a link on here. I gave up long ago trying to attach photos on the forums.

Where do you buy it by the gallon? By math I will need 2.5 gallons to clean my tank. didnt know about the bug remover, thanks I will have to try that

Glad to hear!!!

Call a local propane dealer. They do make rubber hoses to connect, maybe reroute the copper then connect to rubber for the rest of the way?

Thanks Herman! thats worth a try!!

It has a musty smell. I removed and replaced the vents in both vanities. Home Depot only had 2. No water stains on the carpet under the sink and the valve was not seated. Time will tell. DW is happy so that's all that matters, I tried to tell her it was my cologne What is HP 3%?

Ok, so it's not the main intake in the ceiling but an outlet vent? Sounds like insulation is lacking and its picking up humidity along the way.

I even carry extension leads since the batteries are so far behind me. Trying to find a ground and 12 volt power source in the same area has been proven to be difficult.

Thank you. And I will replace all three.

Bill, now we definitely need to meet up, I have to see this for myself. I'm making my way around this coach also.

I carry one, love that tool.

Can you flip them open and look up inside where the inlet screen/filter is? I have metal vents in the ceiling they get so cold they will condensate, drives me nuts I walk around with a towel drying them when it happens, usually caused by an open door or window.

Call me crazy but the slightest air leak will make me sick and I will worry about it constantly. I recently observed mine taking longer to build air. I noticed it at a CG, I actually had to rev the engine to build air. My air line was leaking between the compressor and dryer. $65.00 and 45 minutes later I replaced it. Funny it builds air so fast now it must have been leaking for a while, this coach never would air up so fast. it was so close to the engine I couldn't hear the leak without crawling under it while it was building air.

Brett, would a 1997 have a MAP sensor? i don't recall if that year is the B or E of the 3126. When the OP mentioned 5v usually it's an ECM reference voltage sensor problem. MAP sensor open circuit will cause no boost.

Update; made it to Maine no problems. 500 miles or so. When I got close to the CG I noticed a very slight power loss and my boost gauge would go to 26 psi now only peaking at 22 ish. So I swapped both fuel filters at the CG, few days later went on our way to Massachusetts. Power back at full now boost gauge back at 26 psi. Topped off the tank in Maine along the way, put more Diesel Mate in it. When get home I will cut them open to see what's in side.

Minor problem....odor from the vent under my sink in the back. I have a vent to the left of the P trap that sits higher than the P trap. I remember a post on these but I cannot locate it. I am unsure how the vent is supposed to work, but it is exhausting some grey tank odor, doesn't bother me but DW is complaining. what is it called and can I get it at a home improvement center? the orange guys are just down the street. thanks

Carl, both are electric power gear rack and pinion type design, very simple. I will have to look and see. Our carpet isn't horrible but shows its age. I was considering some other options but the slide had me concerned. The carpet ends at the couch portion and runs all he way under the steering wheel which I hate, then switches to Ceramic tile in the kitchen area all the way back to the footing of the bed,which we love the look. DW loves the feel of carpet on her feet so it just might be carpet again. Not a battle I want to fight . my kitchen and couch are on the front slide and it's only maybe 18" deep.

Erniee, I was wondering the same. Can't speak to the front slide but the rear has the bed on it. We have rollers built into stainless steel plates mounted to the floor, there are stainless plates on the opposing side of the bed frame that they ride on. Have you found that if common on one slide in the same coach the other is too?

Ha, I meant my fuel fills have no plumbing. Some have hoses on each side to feed the tank, my fills are like on a truck, right on the tank itself

I almost bought a Country Coach Intrigue before the HR we have now. Beautiful coach, well made great reputation! They are still in existence like Carl A mentioned above, when I called them to inquire about parts (body, most others are universal) they are remaking nose caps and other parts now and their service center is open in Oregon and that was in 2013. Depending on the year, power plant and condition I wouldn't shy away from it unless I saw something that was a concern. Roger, I'm sure you have the inspection side covered, worth a look if it will suite your needs.

Herman, my fuel fill is on a slight angle and what you pour in comes back out, a funnel or nozzle are a must unless you want it on your hands and feet. Is yours the same on your Monaco? My neck on the fill in only 6-10" deep with a brass cap and you are into the fuel tank, I can actually see into the tank and have no plumbing connecting to the tank.

Yea, I was surprised they told me it wasn't necessary, made me feel better about their trustworthiness. I saw how its done, I guess if my fuel looked like the fuel in the videos I would just have to do it. Believe me, there will never be fuel added to this coach without an additive going forward. I was considering an auto injection system to add it without doing more than pushing a button at the time of fill up. Since I like engineering and fabrication stuff like that I just might do it. It will save me the time to remove the funnel from the coach, make sure its clean, and pour it in while at the pump and getting that stuff on my hands and putting it all away after. Since the additives are not a scientific precise measurement and more only hurts your wallet I might come up with something.

Graphics use 303 protectant. Maybe someone has another product recommendation?

Our last coach had bad oxidation (no paint), bad enough water would leach through the glass (i'm pretty sure the previous owner never washed it let alone take care of the exterior). While it wasn't cheap I had a mobile service that came through a CG in Florida wash, wax and condition the fiberglass, clean and treat the roof, shine the tires, clean the awnings etc, the old girl looked like new and they charged me $450.00 to do all of it. Our coach was 11 years old at the time and I thought that was a good deal. Its not a simple job and you have to know what you are doing for the end result to look good. They told me had it not been for the oxidation or if I had full paint it would have been $250.00.