jleamont

KURTDEN, are you sure you have an "aftercooler"? I have not seen one of those until recently in a 2011 Ford F550 6.7L Powerstroke before that it was mid 80's. Rule of thumb an aftercooler is not in line with the radiator, an innercooler is (usually sits in front of the radiator to allow air to pass through to cool the air charge to the engine) and will usually only have the duct piping to and from the turbocharger while an aftercooler uses the cooling system to cool the air charge being fed into the engine. Your coach and mine should be very similar and I do not have an aftercooler.

Thanks Herman, I met a few folks at Hershey in the FMCA booth. I can't seem to find their information, but they were members to our local chapter, if I wait until September at hershey the season will almost be over. Thanks, look forward to hearing from you

Herman, can you guide me to my local chapter? I was going to wait until the Hershey show and ask at the booth. I live between Philadelphia and Harrisburg PA in the heart of PA dutch country Lancaster County. Thank you

Obedb I like your idea of the test jar! I will have to give that a try. Thanks for a great idea.

George, do you have an auto start stop feature on the generator? The only reason I ask is I just had this problem with ours, my batteries were full and the generator would shut down before the a/c units had a chance to turn on. I thought I had a problem but the auto off feature was set to 98% of battery life and it was doing just as it should, I assumed it would know the a/c was on but it didn't. My guess is the roof tops had not turned on yet so there was not enough of a load. Once I disabled the auto feature everything worked fine. Lessons learned here. Joe

Medico, thank you! I figured ours out tonight, after reading your post today I was determined to figure this out and make it right. By the way love your coach, very sharp unit. We have an HWH series 600. Step 1. Check air pressure I was at 100 psi engine off, I figured this was enough to complete the task at hand. Step 2. I manually leveled the coach with the up and down arrows, verified with a level on the kitchen floor I was level. Both slides were out. Step 3. With the air system on I had two yellow lights on in the front and right side, (this means the system thinks we are not level when we actually were) I located the leveling sensor (that was the hardest part of this simple task) (looks like a UFO with a wiring harness, three screws and springs between the ceiling and the body of the sensor). Ours was located in the ceiling of the same bay as our inverter, under the kitchen. Step 4. My wife sat in the drivers seat and I adjusted the screws until the yellow lights went out. Step 5, Verification: I purposely changed the position of the unit, dumped the air bags, and pressed the air switch twice and it leveled. My back up compressor turned on which I never knew it worked since I never have heard this turn on. I was shocked how simple this was.

KURTDEN, all of the ones I looked at also listed Cummins OEM spec/perf but when I dug into it they really were not performing as well in a few areas, that threw up a few red flags and i walked away frustrated but happy i looked at them.

Not sure but it's pretty neat.

Kurtden, I called Monaco for ours as Brett recommended above, they were very helpful. Double check the specs for the Rotella ELC and compare to the Fleetgard Cummins OEM coolant. I just changed ours this year and I was unsuccessful locating aftermarket coolant that matched or exceeded the Cummins product, mostly PH and Alkalinity were off and did not meet the Cummins requirement, I do not recall if I looked at the Shell product. I bought the Cummins product pre mixed I felt saving a few bucks was not worth the risk since the wrong coolant could cost an engine down the road and seemed like a good investment. As far as getting the air out...if you have a friend that is a mechanic see if you can borrow his or her cooling system vacuum fill tool, or maybe rent one at a local auto parts store. It draws the cooling system into a vacuum and will draw coolant from the gallon jugs filling the entire system and when you are done there is no air in the system, also test your radiator cap, or just replace it, more cheap insurance, mine cost me $8.00. I cannot speak for the ISC but double check, it might have a coolant filter, if so be sure to change it also, since the coolant is new you should not one with the "pre charge" pellets in it, but while you are on the phone with Monaco ask. The cooling system is large and I drained each section I.e. Radiator, heater core, engine and blew 8psi of shop air through the Aquahot and hoses since our cooling system is routed through that also, it was a dirty job but I can sleep better knowing the engine is protected properly. Good luck, happy travels!

rfsod48, I second what Rich said above. We have experienced this at least four times...and yes the same campground on two different occasions. I have a surge protector that hangs from the tower and will shut the coach off when voltage drops to low or surges to high. Inside the coach I have a device that plugs into an outlet (digital line monitor) that will set off an audible alarm when there is a voltage problem as a back up. Once one sounds off or the power goes out from the device on the tower I shut the tower off, pull the plug, start the generator and call the office. I almost lost our last coach due to this problem, the voltage dropped....amperage spiked and the breaker panel in the coach started to melt the neutral wiring, thankfully we were in the unit and had just finished eating breakfast when I noticed the electrical burning smell. Today I will not hook up to a tower unless my surge/spike protector gives the all OK (LED light). Good luck and don't trust the tower.

Rorytug, I had the Banks Power pack on our last coach (Class C Ford with the V10) while it did accelerate and pull stronger I didn't notice any fuel economy benefits, if anything it might have gotten worse. The Banks transmission programmer (Transcommand) paired up with a Bullydog deep aluminum pan was a huge improvement on my transmission temperature. Depending on the year of your coach you may only benefit from the deeper transmission pan. Let me clarify; if you have a 5 speed automatic with a tow haul button the programmer I doubt will do much for shift improvements and I am not sure it is even offered for that transmission (5R110 model), Ford had that model dialed in nice already. We had the older 4 speed (4R100 model) that would hunt for the right gear often and had a sloppy shift into each gear. If I had to do it all over I would have made the changes to the transmission and saved the rest of the money spent to put in the tank and hit the road.

My engine is a 2001 ISL. From what I was told by my Cummins rep the pump I have fit from 2001-2009 ISB,ISC,ISL,ISM,ISX. The pump is located behind the fuel injection pump toward the rear of the engine (back towards the transmission). I got lucky when I removed the 2nd floor access panel I was staring down at it. The dealer I bought the coach from paid for the pump, I just installed it, their tech didn't want to do it, nor did I trust him. I believe it was around $340.00.

I noticed the swivel also, but you have to wonder with the weight of the car is there is a teflon pad under so the car's weight does not make it bind? I could see the car's weight playing a big part on this making the upper table bind and jamb.

judielarry, I had a similar problem just after we bought our coach last year (used). It started to lose power and I got lucky as I was backing into the driveway at home when it got bad, about 5 feet from my garage it stalled only cranked...no start. I pulled the fuel water separator to find a black jelly substance in and on top of the primary fuel filter when I pulled it down; the jelly had a texture like shredded rubber and Jam that you would put on toast. I thought it was Algae but it turned out to be the fuel lines under the coach were deteriorating and it was the rubber from within the fuel lines. Brett saved me (Wolfe 10) when he explained how my fuel system was laid out, so it was easy to diagnose and put my head around what was happening. My fuel system operates off of suction through the primary filter, then goes to a pressure pump on the engine, then onto a fine particle fuel filter on the opposite side of the engine bay and then to the fuel injection pump. So when the main supply line from the tank to the first fuel filter failed I was also pulling in air which is why it stalled (filter was almost empty). If you have a lift pump closer to the tank you may not stall but will push all of that junk into your filter which will cause low power, eventually you should see a fuel leak somewhere between the fuel tank and the first filter. The more I snooped around in the storage areas I could smell Diesel fuel, I lowered down the ceilings to replace the fuel lines and noticed the supply line had beads of fuel on it. My coach was plumbed with Hydraulic hose for both the suction and return lines, I measured the distance and gave myself a few extra feet, went to our local hydraulic hose store and had them make me new lines, running them was a task but I was able to get it done on a Saturday. I was a Diesel Tech for 16 years so I had the tools to complete such a task. I also replaced the fuel pump on the engine, according to Cummins it has been revised 5 times over the years for problems, I changed it just so I wouldn’t have to deal with it, depending on the year of your coach it may be the same pump as i recall it fit many years and several different engines. My experience is after an engine sits the debris will drop off of the inside of the filter and sink, after you run it and create suction it will eventually pull the debris back onto the filter element partially blocking it resulting in a lack of power .

jegall, I recommend reaching out to the manufacture, I looked over the dolly on their website and it looks pretty straight forward, no crazy designs etc. Not much different than the one we use to have. I can say I never experienced this problem with the brand we had a few years back. The other concern is we have several hundred tow dollies where I work for rentals and I have never heard of a strap breaking (other than abuse) and even that was rare. Good luck and please post back with their recommendation, I am curious to hear their thoughts, and someone else may have an experience like yours. I have a connection at another manufacture...if the answer you get doesnt work P.M. me, I will be glad to reach out to my friend at other brands engineering and ask if they have any suggestions or ideas from their product testing R&D department.

What brand dolly do you have? Are you pulling forward when this happens or trying to back up with the car on it?

jegall Welcome to the FMCA forum! Check your dolly, it will either have an upper deck that is supposed to turn when you turn or it has steering that will turn when you drive around a corner. When they are being tranported (no car) there is a pin to either lock the steering or the upper deck, I suspect the pin is still holding the steering or deck from moving. Joe

Ray, www.hrrvc.org I have posted on Good Sam in the past, never experienced any problems other than their fourm is difficult to sign in and navigate. The HR club opens their doors to Monaco owners for rallies and I believe membership as well.

Ray, I have looked through a few posts on irv and noticed the same thing. I'm am sorry to hear you were a target on that site. I joined Holiday Rambler/Monaco club. I have had little opportunity to look through the web site but the do have a forum section and a service manual section also. Joe

Rich, if you are asking me, no I took the picture after I started to disassemble it, I thougt if I took a photo with my cell phone I could see how they were layed out when the new one arrived rather than trying to reassemble from memory.....but what a difference huh? Joe

Yukiroad, did you get stopped and cited? or discover it more casually? Just curious.

I removed mine and had a local plastics shop duplicate them in wood grained plastic. The Monaco plastic was cheap garbage. Out the door it cost me $400.00 for all trim panels in the front of the coach plus no more dull dingy gray plastic, looks classy now. Before and after photos below

We have them on a few 53' trailers at work; I cannot say that there is any noticeable difference with or without them. We have another carrier in the area that has them all over their tractor fleet mostly the sleepers all the way around the cab just before the curve starts for the rear wall. My concern was washing the coach with them you would have to use a wash mitt and a ladder, the brush on the pole would probably not clean around them thoroughly.

bostonbernie, Who performs your maintenance? Do you know what weight oil was put into the engine at the last oil change? From my experience the Triton engine will have a tick on cold start ups, they all seem to have some cold start noise...worse when the incorrect oil viscosity is used. From memory I believe it was hydraulic chain tensioner noise until adequate oil flow is present to pump them up and apply the correct pressure on the chain set and start to lube the cams and lifters. I had a customer with a motorhome (when I was a dealer tech) do his own oil change and he put 15w40 in his V10... the first cold morning....you guessed it cams were dry (oil couldn't reach them) they started to seize and the tensioners were not pumped up and they started to skip teeth and bang. I will never forget when he told me "when it was warmer I would hear a loud ticking sound on start up that would go away after a few minutes". This is from the Ford 2012 F53 chassis service manual; Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil (US); Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Super Premium Motor Oil (Canada) XO-5W20-QSP (US); CXO-5W20-LSP12 (Canada) WSS-M2C945-A 6.6L (7.0 qt) with filter

Tom, funny....I called them and they were very abrasive on the phone and the response was "did you update it" I told them I just pulled it from the box and saw your company has a sticker on the screen and it tells me I do not have to, (we purchased it for a cross country trip that was two months away) "well you need to do an update if that doesn’t fix it I do not know what to tell you, your warranty has already expired". Which was frustrating since It was the first trip with it and I had only owned it for 3 months. Immediately I thought of Bill Engvall "here’s your sign" What a bad company and the worst part is the owner is one of us with a Motorhome according to the video that they use to sell these, I figured how could I go wrong he should understand exactly what we look for in a GPS. I recently purchased a new Garmin for my company car, it too had problems, (oddly enough very similar, but much more user friendly) I emailed Garmin they asked me to update it, so I did, when it didn’t fix it they told me to send it back there is something wrong with the unit, I received a replacement immediately that works great...for a car unit that is. I am also interested in hearing about the Magellan unit, that was my second choice when I bought this.