jleamont

Michael, good luck and happy travels.

ObedB, scroll through your settings in the Xantrex, if it is like ours it gives you have different options for house battery types. I took me a bit to get use to the setting functions you may have to consult the manual to figure it all out.

We had a Regular C or "Mini" 31' on a Ford chassis as our first RV. I loved the cab feel and the ease of maintenance. Since I have worked on both in the past for a living (chassis at a dealer) I felt more comfortable with the purchase of the C. With the problems we had with RV body/cab mounting you would have to work very hard to sell me another "C", that left a bad taste in my mouth. If our's was the only one I saw or heard of with the problems listed below I would be willing to give it another try but we were just another one in the crowd with the same complaints. We had so many problems with the cab moving at a different rate than the body (two different manufactures engineer's trying for a common goal was a failure) causing the front body wall to fail where the cab mounted, bunk starting to fail from the weight overhanging the cab with inadequate support. It was a nice unit in the beginning but time and the nice roads we drive on placed one heck of a beating on that poor coach. I have two friends now with C's one with a mini (31' on a Ford 2010 model year with 20k miles) and another on a Freightliner (2011 with 40,000 miles), both are just starting to have structural failure, the Fleetwood (mini) started first with a rear wall splitting and the roof shearing the mounting screws off where the bunk attached from the chassis twist and the Dynamax (Super) has started with the front wall to cab mounting. While I do love the ease of maintenance, the car/truck feel from the drivers seat and the look I will never do that again, its hard to get one engineering team to talk to each other and develop a good design that will last, trying to get two that have never met to discuss chassis and cab deflection is impossible. Do super C's have air suspension in the front now, just curious?

Thanks

Herman thanks, I was just curious to see if they carry any parts over from one model to another to save on cost and engineering, I guess not. Thanks Brett, next go round I will most likely install a Donaldson to save the money. Ours is a Fleetguard AH8503 or Donaldson P537448

Double check with Newmar how many fuel filters are on the generator fuel line circuit from the tank to the generator. I believe we have the same generator and your is only one year newer, you can tell if the fan is spinning by running the unit and slide under the coach slowly, you should feel air rushing downward or pulling upward, the fan is located toward the front of the generator, while you are underneath the front of the generator has the air filter access with a wingnut, it sites up inside a cavity, I would double check that is not clogged (Engine off for that). The reason I mentioned this; we have filter inside the case on the generator and one fuel water separator hidden above the coach fuel tank, on the the side that the compartment door does not open without removing it. I found it by accident when I had to change the fuel lines to the Coach engine. It was so old all I could see was rust and a glass bowl full of sediment. I suspect no one knew it existed so it was missed at its service intervals.

Herman, does your coach take the same filter as mine....same year, engine and manufacture, different model, just curious? I bought mine from Ryder on line parts sales then. At the time all I could find was a K&N kit to remove the existing filter guts and replace with theirs which was'nt going to happen under any circumstance. Ryder had one in stock then, I have since found other options. At the time I needed one bad, I just had purchased the unit "turn key ready to go" on the 1st trip the filter indicator pulled into the red.

I have this one (photo below) it works well, the hardest part is trying to maneuver the camera to see what you want to see. Last year when my fuel lines failed and I thought there was alge in the tank I shoved the camera to the bottom only to find nothing.

BennieH, funny you mentioned this. I had the alarm activate when I hit a bump one trip a few months back, when I stepped on the brake it went out. I thought it was strange and it hasnt happened since. Where was your switch located?

Just curious, I have no experience with any system other than the traditional sewer hose. I have a Rhino Flex 3" 15' with an additional 15' in storage if needed. I have family that use to camp and had a Macerator unit and I was told they are the greatest and i should go and get one, but I do not see a need for it. I have never had a sewer problem, leak or any reason to look into another way of emptying my tanks, honestly my hands have never gotten wet in the process, unless the hose was wet from rain water on its exterior. Am I missing something?

$166.00 was for the filter, I bought the last one on-line and it was a OEM Fleetguard. Hopefully it lasts a few years. Just might if I stay out of campgrounds with unpaved roads (different post). I was able to locate a Donaldson and a Wix replacement since for $50.00 less not sure of the quality, the unit is sealed into that metal canister pictured above.

Also try Home Depot, Rigid makes one, I have a friend that bought it for looking into house walls, works well.

Ken, I close the jeep up tight so no dirt gets tossed inside. Our jeep only has been in tow for maybe 8000 miles between both coaches we have owned, never had a soft top problem on this Jeep or the 2008 JKU we got rid of. Photos, click the "more reply options" below on the right side of your screen. and look for the "Attach files" button. Joe

Kaypsmith your welcome, it was the talk of the campground, I will never forget it either.

I talked to a fellow camper at a campground with this problem a few years back. He actually had a water snake climb up the sewer hose into his tank and it got stuck at the valve. Dont stick your hands in there. Ever since then I close that grey valve and drain it daily.

Wow, I have seen this happen on two engines in my career that were brought to my shop, one was a Non sleeved International 7.3L IDI (1993) and a 2001 DT466 international, both caused by poor maintenance practices/wrong coolant being installed. Neither engine were at 100,000 miles either.

Good info Puff! I only run Fleetguard filters, for the extra couple of bucks its good insurance. I have had too many bad experiences with aftermarket filters and the lower micron ratings so it can fit multiple engines.

My exhaust has a 90 on it already it points directly back...helps with fuel econony, like a turbine on a jet. Sorry, thats what the dealer told me when we went to look at it before we purchased it. The only problem is if you walk past to close it will get your leg every time.

Check the exhaust manifold bolts, I bought a F250 a few years ago with a V10 that a mechanic told the customer the engine was bad, it only had an exhaust leak caused by broken manifold bolts at the cylinder heads. Very common on this and the 4.6L and 5.4L engines. Ford makes Stainless steel upgrades you can purchase from a Ford Dealer. On an E-Series remove the interior engine cover (dog box) and look down both Manifolds. As far as the vacuum, sounds like a minor leak somewhere. I had a class C with a V10 and I never lost vacuum climbing hills. On these its usually the PCV hose becomes brittle, it is located on the passenger side valve cover, (connects the throttle body to the PCV valve) if you squeeze it it will feel like mush in your hands, replace it with the PCV valve, it just might fix your concern.

There was a problem with the shifter wiring harness chaffing on top of the steering column, it seems to happen every so often on most Fords. Either way it sounds like a warranty job, I recomend taking it to the dealer to facilitate the repair. Just curious is it a Class C Econoline chassis? Either way I would use the tow haul feature in most cases just from the shear weight of the unit, especially when towing, the engine braking feature will help you get it stopped. Joe

Changing it wasn't the worse part, digesting $166.00 was. although it did take me almost 1/2 hour and some tricky maneuvers to get it out.

Agreed! Maximum speed for me is 65, I also have a class A CDL if I get stopped there's no excuses that I can hang my hat on.Plus my steer tires are only rated to ....I think 75, but my wallet is only rated to 60, to much wasted fuel to push it.

Walt what engine do you have and what went wrong? Symptoms etc?

Puff, I would have though that was a side mounted radiator on a Monaco of that size. When we were looking I wanted a rear radiator, my thought was to keep it simple, less to go wrong.