jleamont

This shop is local to the area and I have camped with the owner, nice people. http://www.mechanicsplus.biz/ I am sure they could get you squared away.

Have you tried it in this order: 1.step on the service brake 2. release the parking brake 3. then shift into D? Does it stay on after you begin to move? My alarm sounds if I do it out of the above order, It does silence after a few seconds but it sure gets your attention.

The maintenance men here were telling me all of the horror stories of what they have pulled out of the sewers here over the years. Rolled up diapers, dog waste bags, baby wipes, my favorite was a guy without a 90 degree end on his hose, he had 12’ in the ground that blocked everyone up stream.

I never read that but was told by the selling dealer on both coaches NEVER leave them open. The only time I ever did it was when washing clothes back when we had a washer/dryer.

No but it sure put a damper on my AM coffee under the awning . I could identify the pungent odor, couldn’t, didn’t care to get up from my chair until I saw the stream running down the road behind the coach.

Keep your valves closed until you need to dump, Why? The campground sewer backed up, our valves were closed and it came up our hose and stopped! luckily I have heard of this happening before and saw a mess a few years ago when sewage filled the gray tank on a camper and went into their tub. And another situation when a snake went up someone’s hose and into their gray tank. Needless to say I only open our valves when the tanks are close to full and that practice saved me one heck of a mess! The campground unhooked my hose and put this cap on. The last photo is what came out down stream.

Craig, way to go!! Keep us posted.

Craig, it sounds like your back and gray tanks share a vent pipe. Our last Motorhome was set up this way and I had the same issue as you. I opened an access panel to fix a leak and noticed that the factory never glued my vent, they were just press fitted and one had vibrated loose. Richard posted a link above for a tool that would probably help you locate where the are connections in the wall and it sounds like you will need to do some investigating.

I considered tackling this myself a few years ago. I ended up removing the window, disassembling, and I replaced just the fogged side. Once it was apart it looked simple. Do you have a link for the products?

Puff, thanks for the explanation!

DR, check out this post. Two products are linked and would be the best solution of the roof is fiberglass. If it’s a membrane this is used around most openings. Any RV dealer should have it in hand. Discussion link; https://dicorproducts.com/product/epdm-lap-sealants/ I wouldn’t use flexseal on any RV roof.

How is yours running down the road? Any secrets to share or lessons learned to help the OP? With your technical background, a rundown on the fridge workings from ARP and owning the same model might be huge on this post. Ours went warm on the road also and I never got to the bottom of it.

Any truck shop should be able to access a replacement sensor. I am not sure what system your Roadmaster chassis has but most were a Bendix ABS system which is common on medium duty trucks.

dalekirkham, give these folks a call. RV Cams Inc. http://www.rvcams.com/SFNT.html

YUP! Mine had both recalls completed and still caught fire.

Robert, I can understand why you were told that (in theory it makes sense) but ours caught fire on electric and if you do a web search most others did as well. So even on electric there is still a risk. Depending on your campground preference a residential model might make the most sense.

Are you referring to the main chassis cable or the pigtail on the wheel sensor?

The process should be similar to the video Herman posted. It resides below the steering wheel and it will have to be removed. That would be the hardest part. Other than that it’s just a few screws and electrical plugs. Just use a puller to do so and DO NOT strike the steering shaft with a hammer to release the splines on the steering wheel. Most are collapsible by design and it will ruin the shaft.

We just experienced this on the way to Florida. Pilot/FJ were 15 cents higher just off of the interstate. I used gas buddy to see what was cheaper. The farther from I95 inland the cheaper, it went up to almost 25 cents per gallon savings. DW points out, how old is the fuel, can we get in and out safely, how long will it take, and how much fuel will we burn getting to and from?? All good questions. I whipped out my Goodsam fuel card and stopped at a Pilot. I was in and out in maybe 10-15 minutes. Time is money, I am on vacation and didn’t want an 11 hour day to turn into a 12 hour day. We had a campground to get to before 9pm. the last time I went out of my way for cheap fuel we got Diesel bugs that i fought for over a year to get rid of.

I stumbled upon this website for replacement RV skylights. I figured this would be helpful locating the right replacement for a DIY project. https://www.eztopsworldwide.com/ Remember do not use silicone, this product works great with fiberglass roofs; https://www.geocelusa.com/product/pro-flex-rv-flexible-sealant/ Another alternative or use in conjunction with the Proflex; https://www.eternabond.com/

If you are not comfortable working around AC by all means call in a mobile RV repair. They could simply remove the cord from the reel and hard wire it directly to the ATS. That would be the most cost effective solution. Glendinning makes a reel that is directly hard wired, basically it just rolls your cord into a bucket (mounts above it) but the other end is direct to the ATS. No more brushes! I have seen them used at RV salvage yards and they have several different models. Might be a good alternative to the current design. Photo below is the common one found in older Monaco products. https://www.glendinningprods.com/products/

Does this coach have a power cord reel? After the cord reel is there a plug connecting the reel to the coach? Carls coach is set up like this, he was having electrical issues, when I found where the reel plugged into the coach it is a Twist lock style and it vibrated loose. I had a heck of a time reaching back to resecure it and set the locking collar. I thought for sure that was the problem, wasn’t but could have caused his ATS to fail.

Depending on the thermostat, they make conversion kits to use an old style thermostat with new style AC units. What I don’t know if you can go the other way. Are these Dometic AC units?

I worked on one of these systems before, similar concern, no side camera. Check the connections on the back of the monitor.

The only years with the 6 speed manual and the 4.0L