jleamont

They look great, just no deep shine. That's the end result desired. Here are some photo's of the current appearance.

Kay, they are Corian all the way through. Surprised me when I had to modify the well for the Induction cook top 3 years ago, wasn't easy to get through. It's dull in the high usage areas and has a slight shine near the outer edges, anyone that knows me understands how much that is driving me crazy. Our coach looks like a show piece inside and I am fighting to keep it that way. Thank you everyone for the suggestions.

Has anyone polished their Corian countertops in their RV? Ours are looking dull. I found this product at Home Depot and I was curious if anyone had any experience to share at home or RV. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rejuvenate-16-oz-Countertop-Polish-RJ16CP/202676206?cm_mmc=SEM|G|Base|D24|Multi|NA|Generic|Non_Brand|All_DSA_Paint|71700000032318148|58700003837547334|39700030688261086&gclid=CjwKCAjw583nBRBwEiwA7MKvoKl92datt70dlDj8WM94GhxiDb3XWq745c9lW05yWit83dQRzTX78xoCs0YQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Great troubleshooting! Glad you are all fixed up.

Rich, here is another one for larger coaches, personally I’d call off of the list either way: https://www.truckdown.com/

I always taught it this way; pull the emergency breakaway cable cord, tail gate down for a tug test. This also checks the emergency breakaway to make sure it functioning properly and the brakes are adjusted properly.

The speaker for the system is above the accelerator pedal, can you clip a wire or wrap it in a towel to quiet it down? Are you sure you don't have a problem with the hydraulic jacks? I believe they share the same speaker.

The most common problem is the pressure switch on the parking brake valve fails. Remove the console at the parking brake release valve and disconnect the wire and see if it stops.

Got it, buy a few of these, place them on rocks around your site so they warm up. You can have the drip shower you desire and no serious mods needed to the coach other than a hook to hang it in the shower area. https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-2000014865-5-Gallon-Solar-Shower/dp/B0009PUT20/ref=asc_df_B0009PUT20/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167119746601&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5753640239665129012&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007366&hvtargid=pla-310230575649&psc=1

Here is a good visual. This is the mounting kit I installed; https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/storage/flammable-osha-cabinets/cylinderbracketcaddyrac/wall-mount-cylinder-bracket-2?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_r3nBRDxARIsAJljleHj0GeCTImKtspxkQytffopEnyv2Gw7rMcpXBQbHCvCQSZwjMs9bp0aAg92EALw_wcB

Ahh, ok

Why low flow? We have this one in our coach, works fine with the shower head switch. This unit works flawlessly so far with every obstacle I have tossed at it.

Richard, you need this water heater, LPG and 12v for the electronics. It utilizes an exhaust pipe and can be in the basement of the coach, it vents through the floor. Its tankless so it would be endless hot water. https://precisiontemp.com/products/rv-550-nsp/

Usually you would turn it until its no longer tight and pull upwards. The tightening just compresses the seal causing it to grab the bore on the hole. Do not loosen it to much or you will risk dropping the nut into the reservoir. Try wiggling it side to side, the last person in there might not have lubed the seal properly and it glued itself to the bore.

To test it you need a Magnehelic gauge bar. Looks like this (photo below). First step is to know the pressure spec required. That has a hand pump on it that is connected to a gauge. Without the specs you can unhook the actuator, make sure the valve operates freely in the turbo housing. Vacuum test the diaphragm to make sure there are no leaks. If those check out the control needs to be checked. For that the proper software with a scan tool would be needed. In most cases you can over take the engine and actuate/manipulate the inputs and outputs and see if boost changes. If you can just simply swap the turbocharger depends on the year of the engine.

Too bad you are so far away. I swapped ours out in an afternoon for well under $1000.

My ISL has a screen on the pump inlet. However with two filters before it it’s not likely algae would make it that far. I had a bad case of Diesel bugs a few years ago in our coach. They originated in the tank and stopped at the primary filter. Looked like blackberry jam and multiplied like The Blob, if anyone has even seen that movie.

Keith, we have the same issue after the coach sits all winter. But that’s it, once a year. DD mentioned lubing the S cams, have the tubes and slack adjusters been adequately lubed? we are both assuming you have air drum brakes? The clevis pins can also seize where the push rod connects to the slack adjuster and cause issues. Depending on the brake shoe compound might accelerate them rusting to the drums. If it were me I’d pull the wheels and have a good inspection performed, S cam bushings checked for excessive play. I have seen many that will bind due to bad bushings. They certainly shouldn’t wear out that soon but if never adequately lubed they certainly could fail in 15,000 miles. If they are air disc let me know. They can be quirky also, just much more $$ to fix.

Oh My!! Sorry for your loss.

We use peppermint oil for Mice, supposedly works well for spiders and some other insects, I keep them in all year. Cotton balls soaked and placed in Dixie Condiment cups with holes punched in the lids. Joe I also keep an arsenal of sprays around. Depending on what I see when setting up ill spray my utilities coming up to the coach and around the tires.

Good to know, guess who will be running the slide switches now

It only does it when it reaches the end if you continue to hold the button in when the slide is bottomed out. It will pop, squeeze the seals tighter and pop again and continue to do so until you let off. I keep telling my DW to listen for when it reaches the end, don't hold it that long.

Same design we have on the front slide, the rear has a clutch, once its tight if you don't let go of the switch it will begin to slip, which also makes an obnoxious clunking sound.

Nope, he hasn’t given up. I keep in touch with Nick. He just purchased his first DP. And he’s been out several times in it.

I use this company for work often. They do a good job, I’m sure they would have something https://www.petestire.com/