jleamont

Ours is a very simple system. One designated Pump, two hoses and one cylinder. We have a switch in the right front electrical panel and one at the driver. There is a light on the instrument cluster “GEN OUT” and an ignition lock out so you cannot open it while driving. I am guessing the cylinder is crossing fluid internally or the pump is bleeding fluid pressure off. Most hydraulic hose shops that do pump work could test the components if they were pulled and dropped off. On ours everything is out in the wide open.

Keon, I ditched our years ago! waste of money in my opinion. With technology today at your finger tips, you can locate service easily and call them yourself. Plus you wont be dealing with the lowest bidder quality and delays that RS carriers seek out. I have been on the other end of those companies before, I can tell you from experience, you get what you pay for in attitude and quality, neither of which are desirable when you need help.

Good, the brochure is accurate that I located. Can you photo the points you lubed? Here is a photo of an aftermarket sway bar on an RR8 chassis, does yours look like that?

We are thinking the same thing. My RM8H doesn't utilize sway bars and I don't believe the RR8 doesn't either (from the factory anyway). The brochure calls out 8 outboard mounted air bags, which is a concern its actually a trailing arm bushing issue. on a good note those are available aftermarket should it need them.

Mike, can you snap a photo of the bolts in question and post it? A picture back far enough to see the suspension arm or component in question.

YUP, same here! Its a notifiable difference with vs without it.

You and my DW were meant to be She always says, below 70 is too cold!

I'd take that any day over snow, sleet freezing rain, rusted cars that you still owe on or become junk right after the last payment, car accidents from weather, trapped in the house, only can use the coach 6-7 months a year, all of that is painful! I'll take the sweat any day.....SIGN ME UP!!

I think if it was mine, i'd reinstall the arm to the proper clocked position, index it, remove everything, reinstall the arm and tighten the nut onto the pivot in a bench vise, drill a small hole through the arm and pivot, break it all down, reinstall the entire unit, put it back together and drive a roll pin into it. Everything is already worn, no loss at this point. Cost you some time and a few cents for a roll pin.

Forgot to mention above, I also have one of these plugged in on the inside; https://www.campingworld.com/digital-line-monitor

Richard, since you are pulling from the batteries you have adequate filtration there. If you were tapped directly off of the alternator or old school generator than those instructions would apply. LED headlights would be a fantastic improvement, post some photos of the headlight buckets.

R5154, I also noticed this while looking around; Joe

Love it!!

So for us I thought the hard wired was the greatest thing when we upgraded to the A coach in 14. Then it did its job at a campground and I was without power, had to run to the local home center, purchase wire and wire nuts, stop at a RV dealer and purchase a portable unit, come back and bypass it. Then a year later I had a problem with my cord, I used it to assist in troubleshooting it, that's when it dawned on me the diagnostic capabilities at the tower, the ease of replacing it should a problem wipe it out, it just made all of the sense to keep with the portable unit. Fast forward to May 2018, camping in Maryland, campground had a tower problem and it wiped out my Progressive unit just before we were headed out for a day trip, I picked up the phone, called around, local RV dealer 5 minutes up the street had a replacement, I bought it, reconnected after the campground staff fixed the tower, and we went on with our day and I only lost an hour of my holiday weekend. I had one heck of a time getting Progressive to replace the unit (new owners of the company are not as easy as the old owners) finally got them to honor the warranty after 3 weeks of back and forth, now I have two portable units in the coach as a back up. UP here in the Northeast campground wiring is old and in need of maintenance that its probably not going to get, destroying a EMS up here is fairly common. We have been RV'ing for 11 years with two motorhomes. I have replaced 4 EMS units and one A/C unit and one 110V fuse box and transfer switch due to power problems. Needless to say I wont leave home without it and both units reside in the electrical bay in the coach along with the chain to lock it to the tower! I also have this gadget that I will always plug in and test before any of my stuff gets connected; I love this gadget, thanks Brett for the recommendation! https://50amppowerpal.com/

Jim I’m over here thinking what is that low of a sulfur level going to tear up? 10-15 cents per gallon increase, blah! Mike, any other additives replacing sulfur for lubrication?

allwebb, Welcome to the FMCA forums! I attached the 2005 guide, I do not see that car listed however base plates are available which raises some questions. Have you tried Chrysler customer service? If you do not have the phone number here it is; 800-247-9753 DinghyGuide2005.pdf

Well there you go, I hadn't thought of doing that! I might have to raise the TV up to clear the speaker, which shouldn't be an issue. The fillers above and below the TV I made when I swapped out the CRT to the LED. Ill have to pull the TV and peek in the box to see what I have to work with, been a while since I was in there.

Carl, ours is also connected to the Surround sound, but it works independent of the TV (old Sony system, no Blue Ray, just CD/DVD) which unless settling down for a good movie it becomes a hassle. I can set up the Sound bar to come on and off with the TV and control it from the same remote which made it very desirable and appealing to add one. I am considering making a wood shelf to mount under the existing TV cabinet for the sound bar to rest upon (anchored of course). If I put it on top it would need to be mounted upside down as there is a sub woofer on the bottom that I don't want exposed.

That's not right !!

Revisiting this topic. I am adding a soundbar to the front TV in our coach and I am looking for mounting suggestions. I was going to recess it above the TV but realized the soundbar exhausts sound from the sides and bottom, so if I mount it in the cabinet with the TV it will not be much better that what I have now. I am considering building a shelf above the TV and anchoring it to the shelf and I have considered building a shelf under the TV where the current surround sound speaker sits. Any thoughts, photos or suggestions on what others have done? P.S. I moved this post to the Modification section from General.

Looks great!!

Papa, ours had one I removed the hardwired and went portable. Please elaborate on your research and your thoughts on each type.

Here is where he got his and a few contacts below https://www.atcomp.com/product-category/wiper-systems/ Mike Currie Trico Products Work (248) 371-1700 Home mikecurrie@tricoproducts.com Mike Biller American Technology Work (574) 262-1258 Work Fax (574) 264-9138 Work BillerM@atcomp.com

Here is a few used part options; https://rvparts.visonerv.com/ http://www.nwrvsupply.com/ one of my friends went through the same issue with his 05 Tiffin. I’ll ask him where he sourced his parts from. As I recall they were no longer available and he found something close that was able to be retrofitted to work.

One thing to keep in mind when it comes to statistics, we always must consider what is driving them. You ask anyone that has ever experienced a tire failure what happened, it was never their fault, they were just driving along and the tire went flat or the tire just fell apart. They will fail to mention that last month they drove over the tire speed rating for 30 miles, or they ran up over a curb 5 months ago in a campground that was the real root cause of the failure they experienced months later. Once the tire has been inspected by a professional and x-rayed the real cause of the failure comes out. Being the topic is should I carry a spare tire, my response...if you have room and or an odd size tire that potentially would be difficult to locate in the event of an emergency, I would do so, even if you have to call someone to change it. Why? Simply because we all make mistakes and could have caused some sort of damage to a tire that has not showed that damage yet or a tires condition was never properly inspected by a properly trained technician. We assume the shop that just did our maintenance was capable and was actually going to inspect your tires when all they did was check the air pressures and in their mind and yours was a thorough inspection. I am in the vehicle maintenance and trucking industry, I will say from my experience 99% of tire failures (including recaps) are caused by the vehicle operator. Let me elaborate on this, curbing (and or general damage), excessive scrubbing (figure 8's in a parking lot with a tandem or tag axle that doesn't lift), low tire pressures and the hardest to avoid sometimes is striking road debris cause all of the premature tire failures. Road debris is a big one, I have found that if you maintain a safe following distance and look ahead while driving you can avoid most road debris. If anyone else on here is "Smith system trained" you understand where I am coming from. Tire reliability and technology has come a long way in the last 30 years.