Jump to content

lenp

Members
  • Content Count

    151
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

1 Follower

Recent Profile Visitors

2568 profile views
  1. Same refrigerator in my coach and the frig part defrost failed. Using the Samsung schematics I was able to locate the defrost heater leads in the rear of the unit and found I had an open circuit. Ended up being the thermal fuse located near the heating element. Cheap part but a pain to replace. I now carry a spare. Contrary to what Samsung told you, I was tole NOT to run it on a modified sine invertor. Guest it's all in who you talk to. Regardless, I am using a pure sine and still blew the thermal fuse so maybe it really doesn't care. Yours being both freezer and frig probably a different issue. Lenp
  2. Keep in mind the exhaust brake works better at higher RPM. Thus, the lower the gear you can safely get to the better the braking. Lenp
  3. Mine may not be the same but I was able to remove the outside vent and pull the hose outside a little and reconnect it to the vent and slide it all back in again. Lenp
  4. Wiring to the 12 volt receptacle is probably 12 or 14 gauge wire. When the compressor tried to run the voltage drop is too high. Try running a new circuit direct from the batteries (with a fuse in line) using minimum of 10 gauge wire for both ground and 12 volts. Lenp
  5. Measure the voltage with everything connected if you can. Perhaps across the bulb(s) themselves. Measuring 12 volts (or 13 or ??) at the connector without the lights connected is meaningless. A high resistance connection (or ground) will still pass the full voltage when no current is being drawn. I like to use a 12 volt trouble light to probe the wires https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Continuity-Current-Tester-Indicator/dp/B01BGZ9XRS/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=12+volt+trouble+light&qid=1572750908&sr=8-5 Try it across the battery first to get an idea of how bright it should be. If there is a bad connection somewhere the light will be dim. If you use one of these be sure to connect the ground clip to the ground lead in the plug to verify it is tied to a good ground. Lenp
  6. Brett, I thought the same soon after I bought the coach and asked Cummins and they confirmed 160 was correct. Have thought about changing to 180 to see if fuel economy improved but have never got around to it. Don't fix it if it ain't broke? Lenp
  7. Mine is a bit older and heavier and has an ISL 8.9 370hp. The thermostat is a 160 degree and it runs pretty close to that until I start climbing and gradually increases to 210-212 where the fan kicks in and drops it back to about 195 pretty quickly. So about a 15 degree swing. Goes back to 160 soon after the top of the hill. Usually easy to keep the temp under 200 by dropping a gear so seldom have the fan kick in. I have ran that stretch of I-10 many times but with temp 10-15 degrees lower. Never saw the temp vary from the above 160. Lenp
  8. I have a similar lift on my coach. Be aware it will add significant weight to the rear axle due to the cantilever effect. In my case my Street Glide (96#) added 1400 pounds putting me overweight on the rear axle. Good formula for determining how much is added to rear and subtracted from front can be found here: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/motorcycle-lift-experience-305730.html I do carry mine for short (300 miles or less) but no more as I am about 1600# over on the rear. I am thinking about an Idaho Tote instead: https://freedomhauler.com/ Lenp
  9. I was looking to buy a new Nautilus earlier this year but got confused with the owners manual saying (1) place it in "Stay In Neutral" mode per the "transmission" section. Looking at the transmission section it tell you how to do that but then says DO NOT TOW in this mode. I bought a 2018 MKX instead. Lenp
  10. I was looking at a new 2019 Edge to replace my 2013 (that was flat towable). I ended up with a 2018 Lincoln MKX instead due to the confusion with Edge brochures and owners manuals. The manual says it is towable four down and to put it in the "Stay In Neutral" mode (see transmission section). Going to the transmission section it tells you how to go into the Tow in Neutral mode and then says DO NOT TOW in this mode! No way was I going to buy one! Lenp
  11. George Millican Rd is fine. As noted above, not much for shoulders (gravel). My 40' DP does fine. Highway 20 is a good road. Light traffic on both. Lenp
  12. Did not serve on any boats but worked on plenty when aboard the USS Fulton (AS11) in New London 1972-76 and MOTU-1 in Pearl Harbor 1976-80. Half the class in "B" school were bubbleheads and we had a load of fun together! Retired in 1983 at ETC. Thanks to all for your sacrifices! Most of my years were fun. Lenp
  13. The 9 amps at 18 volts translates to 162 watts. That is not too bad for winter sun angles (about 80% efficient which is good for low winter sun angles). You didn't say how many batteries your rig has but if we assume two deep cycle marine/RV batteries with around 80 amp hours each capacity you have a total of 160 amp hour battery bank. Assuming you have totally discharged them it will take 17 hours or more at a nine amp charge rate. Your only going to get the 9 amps for 3-4 hours at best and after that it will probably average 3-4 amps for another 3-4 hours for a maximum of 48 amp hours - you won't even recover 50% of your battery capacity. The fact your dropping to 11.5 volts indicates a totally discharged battery bank, BUT I expect your still pulling a load from them which would cause the voltage reading to be lower than it actually is. To measure the REAL State Of Charge (SOC) you need to remove ALL loads (and charging sources) from the batteries (disconnect them) for 10-15 minutes and then read the voltage with a multi meter. Or measure the specific gravity of each cell in each battery. My guess is your never getting your batteries fully charged and are using the bottom half of the charge (10-50% range). Suggest you also have your batteries load tested. If you have been consistently discharging them to the 11.5 level they may be seriously damaged. An article I read many years ago stated you can cycle a deep cycle battery from 90% to 50% at least 2000 times, however it will only last 200 cycles if you go from 90% to 10%. You also did not indicate what type of battery(ies) you have installed. I assumed above you have the typical Marine/RV battery but I may be wrong. Regardless, the typical marine/RV battery is not a good choice for our use. You would be much better off with a true deep cycle battery like Trojans. Perhaps switch to 6 volt golf cart batteries - much better then the marine/RV batteries. One way to more accurately monitor your battery condition and charge level is with a battery monitor system like the Bogart Engineering Trimetric. http://www.bogartengineering.com/products/trimetrics.html FYI, here is a chart I have used for years to measure SOC via voltage reading. As noted above, the battery MUST be at an "at rest" condition (disconnected at least 15 minutes and, if recently charged, have a small load place on it for the 10-15 minutes, like a 12 volt light bulb, to dissipate any surface charge). Please note that a charger/converter will place 13.6 (or more) volts on the battery and when you first disconnect the charger this 13.6 volts will remain as a "surface charge" until a small load is placed on the battery. A fully charged battery at rest will read 12.66 volts. Hope this helps, Lenp Voltage Charge Remaining 12.66 100% 12.61 95% 12.57 90% 12.53 85% 12.49 80% 12.45 75% 12.41 70% 12.37 65% 12.33 60% 12.29 55% 12.25 50% 12.21 45% 12.17 40% 12.13 35% 12.09 30% 12.05 25% 12.02 20% 11.99 15% 11.96 10% 11.93 5% 11.9 0%
  14. Place a trouble light with a 40-60 watt bulb in the outside rear of the refrigerator and close off some (23rd) of the compartment vents. This is not the first I have heard of this happening and it has happened to me. Lenp
  15. Keep in mind they usually cover ANY rig your driving - that could change frequently. Lenp
×
×
  • Create New...