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lenp

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  1. When you say "power is good coming in" have you actually measured it? IF the voltage is low or high the SurgGuard will not allow it to pass into the coach. likewise, if the pedestal is wired incorrectly it may block power. As noted above, check your power cord. I had a 50 amp cord loose the ground connection and my SurgGuard would not let power pass. Good luck! Lenp
  2. The fact your GFCI is popping when #2 heating element is connected suggests the element (or wires) may be contacting something it shouldn't. And, yes, if replacing one, replace both. Lenp
  3. I had a 2011 which I think is basically the same as your 2010 and it was not WAS NOT flat towable so I traded for a 2012 which is very easy to place the transfer case in neutral. Lenp
  4. When you say the voltage drop across the motor is .2 volts does that mean your reading is taken with one meter lead on the positive side of the motor and the other lead on the other side of the motor? If that is the case you should read 12 volts not .2 volts. And if that is how your reading the .2 volts I think you have a bad connection on negative wiring. Lenp
  5. When checking the voltage I suggest you measure ACROSS the pump terminals to make sure you don''t have a bad ground connection somewhere. If your measuring from chassis ground or negative battery terminal to the hot terminal you could be getting a false reading of what is actually across the motor. Lenp
  6. Sounds to me like insufficient voltage issue. Check the voltage ACROSS the pump (assuming hydraulic operated) or motor if electric. Could be a bad ground connection. Lenp
  7. My son had his trailer stored at a fenced (secure?) storage facility and some broke the entry door lock and actually lived it the trailer for a week before it was discovered. No hookups but the toilet was used and FULL of "stuff". What a mess. Took a lawsuit to get the storage company to cover damages. Lenp
  8. Same refrigerator in my coach and the frig part defrost failed. Using the Samsung schematics I was able to locate the defrost heater leads in the rear of the unit and found I had an open circuit. Ended up being the thermal fuse located near the heating element. Cheap part but a pain to replace. I now carry a spare. Contrary to what Samsung told you, I was tole NOT to run it on a modified sine invertor. Guest it's all in who you talk to. Regardless, I am using a pure sine and still blew the thermal fuse so maybe it really doesn't care. Yours being both freezer and frig probably a different issue. Lenp
  9. Keep in mind the exhaust brake works better at higher RPM. Thus, the lower the gear you can safely get to the better the braking. Lenp
  10. Mine may not be the same but I was able to remove the outside vent and pull the hose outside a little and reconnect it to the vent and slide it all back in again. Lenp
  11. Wiring to the 12 volt receptacle is probably 12 or 14 gauge wire. When the compressor tried to run the voltage drop is too high. Try running a new circuit direct from the batteries (with a fuse in line) using minimum of 10 gauge wire for both ground and 12 volts. Lenp
  12. Measure the voltage with everything connected if you can. Perhaps across the bulb(s) themselves. Measuring 12 volts (or 13 or ??) at the connector without the lights connected is meaningless. A high resistance connection (or ground) will still pass the full voltage when no current is being drawn. I like to use a 12 volt trouble light to probe the wires https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Continuity-Current-Tester-Indicator/dp/B01BGZ9XRS/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=12+volt+trouble+light&qid=1572750908&sr=8-5 Try it across the battery first to get an idea of how bright it should be. If there is a bad connection somewhere the light will be dim. If you use one of these be sure to connect the ground clip to the ground lead in the plug to verify it is tied to a good ground. Lenp
  13. Brett, I thought the same soon after I bought the coach and asked Cummins and they confirmed 160 was correct. Have thought about changing to 180 to see if fuel economy improved but have never got around to it. Don't fix it if it ain't broke? Lenp
  14. Mine is a bit older and heavier and has an ISL 8.9 370hp. The thermostat is a 160 degree and it runs pretty close to that until I start climbing and gradually increases to 210-212 where the fan kicks in and drops it back to about 195 pretty quickly. So about a 15 degree swing. Goes back to 160 soon after the top of the hill. Usually easy to keep the temp under 200 by dropping a gear so seldom have the fan kick in. I have ran that stretch of I-10 many times but with temp 10-15 degrees lower. Never saw the temp vary from the above 160. Lenp
  15. I have a similar lift on my coach. Be aware it will add significant weight to the rear axle due to the cantilever effect. In my case my Street Glide (96#) added 1400 pounds putting me overweight on the rear axle. Good formula for determining how much is added to rear and subtracted from front can be found here: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/motorcycle-lift-experience-305730.html I do carry mine for short (300 miles or less) but no more as I am about 1600# over on the rear. I am thinking about an Idaho Tote instead: https://freedomhauler.com/ Lenp
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