desertdeals69

When one of my grandkids was an infant we put him in an infant seat with the seat belt securing it and had the seat turned facing backward.

Camber and caster also have to be correct. Caster is less critical but camber has an effect on tire wear just as toe in/out does. If everything is correct it will track better as well as give maximum tread life.

Try craigslist. List it a WTB (want to buy) and description.

As I recall it was about $5 a piece. They are all keyed alike, just not like the three series thats common in the industry.

You should install tire pressure and temperature monitors then you know what your running going down the highway.

The best product for that application is Forever Black. It has an applicator on the bottle which dispenses a small amount. You don't have to disassemble anything. It has a black pigment. I use it on everything black and it last a long time, like years. I use it on all the plastic parts on my Silverado. Much easier than paint and less mess and work.

Thanks Brett, our daytime temps in the summer reach 120 and sometimes cool down only to 105 at night. My outside cement in the summer is in the 170s. I wonder how much cooler white covers would keep the tires.

Years ago I had Firestick cb antennas which had white shrink tubing on the outside. After a few months it cracked and started peeling. I took them back to the manufacturer in Phoenix and they replaced them with ones that were black. They said that black blocks out the uv much better than white. The black ones lasted for years. Is the same true about the color in tire covers?

Install a switch fuse on the brake light circuit in the toad and the problem is solved. The toad brake light will not be active when toad brake pedal is depressed.

I think you have a problem with the wiring. All of them that I have done don't have that problem.

The same thing is true with baggage door locks, quite a few have the same keys. I changed mine when I first got my current coach.

With Directv if you own your own receiver it still cost you about $6 month for activation, the same if you lease from them but if leased you have a 2 year obligation. If you have your own you will have to buy a new access card for some $20.

Back in the 70s I towed a Toyota station wagon with a 14 Hobie Cat sailboat on a roof rack I built. Carried the mast on the roof of the mh.

I have been wiring with diodes for 35 years. Dozens of vehicles. I put a trailer connector on the front of the car and make a cord with a plug on each end for connecting between mh and toad.

I would have Freightliner take a look at it. If it has a bad bearing its better to fix it now rather than have it totally fail.

I believe its screwed in. It sounds like some of the cooling fins are still blocked. You should have a huge amount of air blowing out the bottom. Take off all the sheet metal to make sure all the fins are clear.

Newmar is a good choice. I've toured over a dozen factories and I think that Newmar is on top. A major portion of their work force is Amish and their work ethic is second to none.

We have an agreement. I take care of the outside and she takes care of the inside, such as dishes, laundry, etc. I do the oil changes, change a flat tire. wash and wax, etc.

Some tires are advertised as having uv inhibitors in the rubber, is this true and does it make a difference?

I tow a 1/2 ton Silverado 2wd behind my 32 foot diesel pusher. It has the v6 with 5 speed manual trans. I believe if you have a 4x4 all you have to do is shift the transfer case into neurtal.

You add the specifics of your rv and its supposed to pick a route that is safe to travel.

You can use the anti glare screen material from a laptop or pad and cut it to size to fit the 7710. I am waiting for the new 7720 to come and hoping it will be brighter. Will post when I test it.

If nothing is being held by the bolt I would just tighten the bolt if loose or maybe there is not any more threads and the bolt is tight.

I have come to the conclusion that before a toad is selected that it has to have been out for a couple of years being towed without problems. After reading all of the horror stories posted, even if the manual says its ok, sometimes the mfg changes its mind and says its not. Let someone else be the guinea pig. The more changes you have to make to the car or truck the more potential problems your going to have. I would go for a tow bar and brake system only and if it needs more than that to make it towable I would look to a different toad. The problem with other devices is that if there is a failure you are caught between two different mfg as to who is responsible, well documented in this forum.

Exactly where are these bolts and what are they supposed to hold?