desertdeals69

RVA jacks are probably the strongest jacks ln the business. I have had all six wheels off the ground changing tires without a problem.. I have parked with my rear wheels off the ground. If I should have a jack fail the worst that could happen is the coach come down on the wheels which the park brake is keeping from turning so the coach is not going to roll down hill. If I am working under the coach I always use jack stands.

I would recommend golf cart batteries because they are a little taller and have more clearance between the bottom of the plates and the case. They seem to perform better over the long haul. I would stick with the 3 stage charger in the inverter. The charger you have would be marginal in output as most with 60 amp output do so only when batteries are low and taper off quite a bit as the batteries come up. It would take a long time to bring the batteries to full charge.

Of the 3 brands you listed Wagen is probably the best one. I presume you are speaking of one that plugs into a cigarette lighter socket. At the other end of the scale is Xantrex sine wave with 3 stage battery charging.

We have a Thousand Trails elite membership and are enjoying the great campgrounds in the system. This includes Mid Atlantic and Outdoor World. Have stayed 91 nights since May. We have never had trouble getting a reservation and were able to stay where we wanted. As far as costs, the last 2 years staying in the campgrounds that we have, we have paid for the membership cost and the annual fee. From here on since our investment is paid for, our annual cost is $585 for as many nights as we care to do.

Lithium Ion batteries are rechargable.

There are a number of things you can do. I have installed an Aero stainless steel muffler which is straight through with a venturi effect which is supposed to have less back pressure and I increased the air inlet from the roofline to the air cleaner to 6 inches in diameter and K&N air filter. The changes probably have helped mileage some as when I fueled up in Las Vegas the other day, I had gone 871 miles and got 10.93 mpg. I have a 32 foot with an ISB 275 towing a 1/2 ton Silverado with full tanks, 225 gallons of diesel.

You've probably never been across the red dirt roads of North Dakota!

If they are standard AA batteries you can replace them easily. There are different types. Ni Cad, Nickel metal hydride, Lith Ion. Just match up with what you have.

Usually the inside frame is tight against the outside frame, thats why retorque the screws doesn't really tighten the frame. Thats why we always pull the window and replace the butyl tape. The reason the screws usually don't loosen is because they are self tapping and go into a slot in the extrusion and not in a hole.

I just changed my air dryer filter which I got at my local NAPA parts store. Filter was made by Haldex.

You need to have a locksmith look at it.

Usually the water lines inside the motorhome don't have a problem. The outside hose could freeze and you could wrap it or use a hose heater. Shouldn't be too much of a problem since the day time temps are high. If it never got above freezing during the daytime then you would have to do more.

I use a Pur filter pitcher for drinking water. I keep it in the refrigerator so its cold all the time.

I have been using hydrogen peroxide a pint at a time. With water tank empty fill the water hose with 8 oz of hydrogen peroxide and then fill about 10 gal in tank. Run the waterpump until treated water is in all the lines and waterheater. Let it sit for an hour and then just go ahead and use it, no need to flush. I got rid of smelly water with this method, when I tried with bleach I still had smelly water within 24 hours. I checked with a water engineer with a chemical plant and he said that was the best way to treat rv water systems and that they did it that way in the chemical plant. Hydrogen peroxide is about 88 cents a treatment. This method was presented at a Newmar rally.

I believe the ECM is on the side of the engine. Have you checked the cruise control switches on the signal stalk? The wiring might be suspect.

I haven't had a cb in a motorhome for about 20 years. Now we use cell phones or 2 way radios when traveling in groups.

Interstate batteries used to have a booklet that explained the care of golf cart batteries. I don't know if its still availble.

Its supposed to have a brighter display among other things. I will report when mine comes in.

Production motorhomes use solid wire for 120 volt systems. We have been working on rvs for over 35 years. All of the failures we have witnessed with the ATS has been in the wire connections. It is rare that anything else in the unit fails, anything that cannot be traced to a poor connection.

The screws a usually on the inside frame.

Just keep in mind that all four tires on the rear axle should be the same size and same mfgr. Different mfgr with the same number size tend to vary in actual size. Use the size the coach builder recommends.

The electrical systems in autos and trucks are designed to be driven on the road. The wire used is stranded to soak up vibration. The 120 volt wiring in a motorhome is solid and is designed to be used in a stationary home. Thats why we tend to have more problems with RVs. Like I posted earlier, someone has to check and tighten the connections.

Both!

Keep it as simple as possible. As we get older we tend to forget things that have to be done!

When a window is installed the butyl tape is almost all squeezed out. The frame that touches the side wall is curved and has a very narrow contact surface. Usually we just take the window out and replace the butyl tape. A relatively easy job.