tbutler

These are old cities, built on streets that started as trails for horses and wagons. They are frequently narrow and not necessarily constructed on the modern right angle patterns. In addition, we found that the road departments in MA are reluctant to trim trees. It has been several years when we were last there. We saw exit signs that were hidden behind shrubs or trees until you were almost past them, trees that were too low for us to get under without contact, turns that were difficult and railroad bridges that were less than 10' clearance. These kinds of things are common throughout New England. The solution is to do everything you can to know your route. Get the best map information you can. Use a GPS to alert you to upcoming turns and anticipate a hidden turn or exit. Stay with the major roads if at all possible. If you have low clearance information on your GPS or in your map book, make sure you have the latest most complete information available. I would look for routes into and out of city locations that are on major roads if absolutely necessary to go into cities in the motor home. We've traveled through much of New England and it is definitely worth the effort and care in driving to make the trip, just go there with a clear expectation that the roads will be more challenging than you find in other parts of the country. This is where you will earn your "stripes" as a motor home driver. Enjoy!

I have used HP laser printers and now have an Epson XP-410. The XP-410 is a color printer, copier and scanner, now likely discontinued or replaced with a more modern model. Most printers are easily capable of taking care of personal use. If you need to print large quantities you might be able to use commercial (office supply or copy centers) printing for those needs. Other than the number of copies, the other considerations are the size of the printer. Decide where you want to place the printer when it is in use and when you are on the road. When I had the HP laser printers I stored them in an overhead cabinet but had to move them out to use them. I had a step stool that was handy for Louise but not used often. I used that step stool as a printer stand. I have a fold up table behind the passenger seat and the space under that is where I placed the printer. The computer sits on the table when in use and the 110V electric supply is on the bottom of the cabinets above. So I had convenient connections between all components and electric handy as well. With the current printer, I leave the printer in the overhead cabinet above where the computer is located when it is in use. That way I don't have to relocate it to use it. I seldom use the printer these days but it is handy to have one along. The Epson is light weight and does a decent job of printing. Paper has caused problems in the past. I keep our paper in a plastic storage container to control the moisture content which has caused some printers to jam in the past. I believe most printers today have wireless operation as at least an option. This is handy, allowing you to put the printer where you need to without worrying about the location of the computer and the need to connect a wire to the computer. We occasionally have need for a copier and it is really unhandy to have to find a place to make copies. Again today it is easy to find printers that are multi-function capable and prices are quite reasonable for these printers. The copy and scan option allows me to convert paper receipts to digital copies. Have you noticed how many receipts are printed in invisible ink? Three months later they fade to white! For all my durable goods purchases (like the printer) I scan the receipt and make a digital copy. That way I have proof of purchase that won't fade. Measure your storage space then take a tape measure and go shopping or shop on-line and hope the measurements they quote are correct. When it comes to shopping on-line and finding correct sizes I often go to the manufacturer website to verify the measurements quoted on the on-line sales site. There are so many choices available you should have no trouble finding one that fits your needs.

There isn't anything good and cheap in Denver. RV Park Reviews lists 51 parks in the area. Some don't have full facilities, others are rated 1 out of 5 stars. Across the road from Dakota Ridge $$$$$ (where we are now) is Golden Terrace RV Park. It is pretty much a parking lot and the sites are really narrow. If you have a toad, you will park it in the adjacent parking area. Our last stay there several cars were vandalized. Another park we have used in the past is Prospect Park. The sites are archaic, some trees can be quite messy, electric is 30A and they were packed when we called earlier this year. Our last stay there we had such a mess from the tree we were parked under I pretty much vowed never to return but we did check! Cherry Creek State Park is south of town a short distance. We've been to the park but haven't stayed there or even seen the campground. We know people who stay there regularly and they like it. We have also stayed at Barr Lake which is about 20 miles north. It is also an old park, sites are gravel but are level and there are full hook-ups. Check RV Park Reviews for details and other parks.

Let's go back to the OP. Given the information provided it sounds as if there are a number of solutions. First is the condition of the house batteries. There are two battery systems in motor homes, the chassis batteries start the engine and power the driving portion of the vehicle, signal lights, headlights, etc. The house batteries (may be 2 or 4 6V batteries or in some coaches, 1 or 2 12V batteries) power all the household items: water pump, most lights, furnace, refrigerator, slide outs, inverter and control functions on things like the water heater. The house batteries also power control functions on the transfer switch which controls the varying sources of AC power (generator or "shore" power). Depending on the coach, what is controlled and how a dead house battery affects the coach may vary. We've run our house batteries to dead several times and the result is much like what is described. Now, if the batteries are in good condition, charged and producing current, there are usually two separate cut-off switches that shut off the power from the house batteries. The main or master cut-off switch will usually be somewhere near the house battery compartment. That switch may be shut off and it will cut off power to the house, just as if the batteries are dead. If the switch is off, the solution is simple, turn it on. If it is on there is still a possibility that the switch may be bad. I've had a switch fail due to overheating (an improper installation was the cause). If the switch is not working properly, you can wire around the switch by connecting the two wires that connect to the switch directly to each other. Simply bolt them together. Now you may want to turn off the power quickly sometime in the future so you will want to replace the switch but temporarily wiring direct instead of through the switch will get things working until you can get a replacement switch. The aforementioned "salesman" switch is a secondary battery cut-off switch that is usually located just inside the entry door (apparently there are exceptions - see previous posts). The salesman switch is wired in series with the master cut-off switch In our coach, the salesman switch operates a solenoid which operates the actual switch. Our solenoid has a history of failure so I have wired directly around the solenoid by connecting the two feed wires directly to one another. This effectively disables the salesman switch. You could do the same at the actual salesman switch. It won't harm anything to disable this switch if you don't mind going to the master cut-off switch and cutting the power at that switch when necessary. These would be the first three things I would check. If you have checked these, then we'll have to look to other items that may be at fault. If you don't have an owners manual that helps you find the batteries, cut-off switches and other key parts of your motor home, you should contact the manufacturer for information and get a replacement owners manual if it is available. Let us know how your troubleshooting works and if you have further questions, don't hesitate to ask.

It sounds to me that the system is working fine until the engine is started. Since the engine starts, the batteries must be connected correctly. The problem occurs once the alternator comes on line and starts producing current. I would start by checking the connections for the alternator. It could be just a matter of a single wire in the wrong place.

I am surprised to hear this. Just how old is your Chevy? Our Trailblazer was 2002 and the rest of your procedure sounds just like ours...

Nice looking coach! If it serves you as well as ours has, you'll have a great time. Welcome to FMCA!

Every GM product that I have towed, a Chevrolet Trailblazer and a GMC Acadia, have required pulling fuses before towing. This wouldn't affect the mis-wiring between the motor home and the toad but it might help account for the dead battery. Check your Suburban owners manual for details. In the Acadia we tow we have to pull one 50A fuse and one 10A fuse. I have encountered problems with self wiring the connection between the motor home and toad. Several times I've had success solving the problem and other times I have given up and turned it over to experts. Sometimes a few dollars is a small price to pay for eliminating a problem and the frustration that goes with it. When we bought the Acadia I had it wired by a shop. A year later the lights quit working. It seems they had routed the wire through the car in a way that the suspension rubbed and eventually broke the wires. Sometimes hiring someone to do the work isn't the answer either! Our motor home was wired for separate brake and turn signals. The brake lights were different bulbs from the turn signals. The Acadia uses the same bulbs for turn and brake lights and this requires adapters to make everything work properly. I don't know specific details but it combines the brake and turn signals from the coach to make the toad lights work properly. Also if you haven't wired this kind of connection, there are one way devices (diodes, the D in LED lights) that must be installed on the lines in the toad to prevent feedback between the motor home and the toad. Most RV supply stores will have these. Like Wildebill I carry a battery charger and it has been handy to have occasionally. By the way if you have jumper cables (I also carry them in the toad), you can use the coach batteries to jump the toad battery. House batteries are wired 12V. Four 6V batteries are wired in series and parallel. You have 6V + to 6V - to get 12V, another set wired 6V + to 6V - to get 12V and these two sets are wired in parallel, + to + and - to -. Hook them up, motor home black to toad black, motor home red to toad red. I have even used the car battery to jump the coach! Really!!! By the way, if you don't have an owners manual for your coach, you can get a replacement copy from Monaco, Customer Service, 877-466-6226. They have complete information on your coach, right down to the various parts that were installed in your coach. The magic number that you need when you call them is the last six digits of the unit serial number (look on the coach information sticker that should be on the wall behind the drivers seat). The owners manual is actually a huge notebook and the original was accompanied by a file box with user information on all the appliances that were installed on your coach.

In case you need contact information for Holiday Rambler, the phone number in your owners manual should still be a good contact number. Holiday Rambler was part of Monaco RV at the time your coach was manufactured and their data is intact despite a bankrupcy and subsequent sale to Navistar followed by a sale to ASV which has reorganized and Monaco (including Holiday Rambler) are now in the REV Group. This Holiday Rambler link takes you to their page and way down at the bottom in the footer of the page is a link to parts and service. We have a Monaco but I think that our service number will work for you as well, 877-466-6226. Through all of the above, Monaco (including Holiday Rambler) has maintained all their records and should be able to give you specific information about your coach and advice as to how to solve any problem that exists. By the way, Roadmaster Chassis is also a part of the REV Group so repair parts may be available from them or you may need to find an aftermarket product. If it is a problem with trailing arms, there is a good aftermarket product which is rated better quality and lower cost than the replacements that Monaco is selling. That isn't my personal experience, it comes from other postings here on this forum. Query the forum (search box, top right corner of this page) for trailing arms to read up on what others have said. That is "IF" and I suspect as mentioned above, the problem is likely something other than trailing arms as your model should be an RR8R chassis.

I opened this can of worms. If you read through my whole dissertation you will find a single sentence where I referenced Rodger's previous remark regarding the microwave oven. Obviously, I'm not the cook that Rodger is and my remark could be taken as dismissive by someone who is much more qualified than I. There was a great deal to be learned from Rodger's posting which I take in the spirit of the normal back and forth discussion that we have here on the FMCA forum. For one, I thought that our convection microwave was the same as a home model, the label says "Sharp Household Microwave Oven Model No. 1870." On the door is says "Sharp Carousel" and "Sensor Microwave Convection." It works well for the kind of cooking that we do in the motor home. In fact if I'm doing the cooking, Rodger probably wouldn't even consider it cooking. No one who knows me would describe me as a foodie! I was pleased to learn that Rodger does agree with me regarding BBQ fuel and technique. So I will be more humble and cautious about what and how I say something about cooking!

If you are looking pre-2008, you are already 8 years old and the price limitation at that age shouldn't be much of a barrier. Look for a high quality coach. These coaches are pre-recession coaches. Coaches manufactured after 2006 were manufactured in the waning years of the RV boom. Fuel prices were affecting the sales so manufacturers were beginning to cut corners to reduce purchase prices. Post 2008 many of the manufacturers went out of business. The Monaco family (including Holiday Rambler, Beaver and Safari) went through bankruptcy. They were purchased by Navistar and continued to manufacture limited models. Recently they were sold to another company, ASV which has restructured their operations, now Monaco and Holiday Rambler are part of the REV Group which includes American Coaches and Fleetwood Coaches. Through all this, the Monaco support, tech support and factory service centers have continued to provide excellent service. I mention this to alert you to the fact that there are some coaches that are truly orphans. Their manufacturers no longer exist and your requests for assistance from a manufacturer will be futile. There are user groups for most brands but finding parts and factory quality service can be a problem. Do your due diligence on the manufacturer so you aren't surprised to find no support is available. We love Monaco products, the 8 airbags mounted in line with the tires give a superior ride. Cummins diesel has served us well though you must understand that maintenance on any diesel engine isn't cheap. Even if you are doing your own maintenance, the parts aren't cheap. We had a 38 foot and now a 40 foot coach. I think the ride will get better with the longer length. Our 40 footer has had only minor adjustments in slides and we are now going on 13 years on the road in this coach and 150,000+ miles. Most coaches manufactured after 2000 will have some slides. We started with no slides in our first coach. Having slides to expand the coach are almost never a problem in campgrounds (even in Canada and Alaska) and they make the living much more comfortable. The outside storage is obviously greater with larger coaches. Pass through compartments are really nice and if they don't have sliding tray storage, it can be added by any number of suppliers. The pass through slide out tray in our coach is more valuable as time passes and I get older! If a 36 footer is your choice so you can fit into smaller campsites, state and national parks and others, that is fine. Otherwise there really isn't much difference in driving a 36 footer and a 40 footer. Your choices are much broader in the 40 foot category. That is a big rig and there are more models manufactured at this level. If you are planning to tow a car you can find parks near the state and national parks and do your exploring in your toad. Without a toad you will have a difficult time getting around to tour a state or national park. We have found state parks and in Canada, national parks that have sites for 40 foot coaches. State parks that don't have sites for 40 footers often don't have full hook-ups or 50 amp electric. Beyond Monaco and Holiday Rambler, Country Coach is another brand that I have always looked at as a quality coach. Even if you aren't interested in the higher priced brands, I would encourage you to look at them to see the quality of those coaches. There are many low quality coaches, buy the highest quality you can afford, it will serve you well. Many coaches have nice paint jobs, quality is in the cabinetry, suspension, design, windows, doors, compartments, plumbing, lighting and floors. Drive it, see how much it rattles, how it handles, how it rides. Floor plans are so much an individual decision I wouldn't even begin to make suggestions here. The issue of a conventional oven can be answered by the convection microwave oven. Louise is quite happy with ours. We lived full time in our coach for almost ten years, Louise insists on a good sized pantry. She also makes good use of the Splendide washer/dryer. We have replaced the Norcold 1200 refrigerator in our coach with a residential refrigerator. Norcold 1200 LRM model refrigerators have been subject to recall and the retrofit kit for them is a problem. They are a serious fire hazard. I slept better once ours was replaced. You won't find too many coaches pre-2008 with residential refrigerators as original equipment but it is an upgrade that you might want to consider. We use 120V AC full time in our coach. We have an inverter that is always on. 4 6V batteries is standard for most larger coaches as is 50A electric. You can get by with 30A but the larger coaches with 2 air conditioner/heat pumps require 50A to be able to use both these appliances at the same time. This time of year, having 50A electric means comfort on hot days. Size of tanks is a consideration. We have 95 gallons fresh water, 60 gallons gray water and 40 gallons black water. We can go a week living on our tanks alone if we have to. Our fuel tank is 127 gallons for a range near 1000 miles. Keeping the tank 1/4 full to keep the generator fueled limits that range to something like 750 miles. We just turned 2000 hours on our generator and we use it frequently. It is handy for boondocking and for travel on hot days when the dash air conditioner isn't sufficient for comfortable travel. A generator means increased flexibility in your travel options. You are buying a used coach so service from the dealer isn't a huge factor, there is no warranty service and you can get service anywhere. If you have a good repair shop near your home, they will service what you have. We have obtained service as we travel for fifteen years on the road. There are good service centers and those that are not. Most will do a suitable job. Since the recession, dealers and service providers are anxious to provide service. It was common in 2001 to find dealers that wouldn't provide service if you didn't purchase from them but we haven't encountered that recently. The RV industry is slowly recovering but will likely never return to the boom days of the 90's and early 00's. You need work done and they are hungry to serve. We are this year beginning to encounter RV parks that are reserved and have no sites available. That hasn't happened for years. These are a few of the considerations in selecting a coach. I don't have specific recommendations beyond these. Take time, examine a wide variety of coaches, you will find something that meets your needs.

I have the ISL 400 and Allison 3000. When I use the engine brake (low or high), the transmission will select 4th gear but won't shift if the speed is too high. I don't manually downshift, I let the Allison handle that. If I want a downshift I'll apply the service brakes enough to bring the speed down and the Allison will downshift on it's own. In ideal conditions, I'll apply the engine brake before the speed becomes too high for the Allison to downshift. If I want a downshift to 3rd gear, I'll apply service brakes and slow the coach until the Allison shifts down to third gear. The Allison 3000 as it is set up on our coach will shift up to the next higher gear when the engine RPM reaches 2500. If the RPM is approaching that level and I don't want the Allison to shift to the next higher gear, I'll apply the service brakes to bring the RPM down to something like 2200 or 2300 and then let the engine brake handle the descent until it approaches 2500 again.

We have a Monaco, 2004. If the Holiday Rambler is similar to ours, the lighted handle lights up with the porch light. When you turn on the porch light the handle illuminates. If it isn't lighting up, you can get a replacement light unit. Contact Monaco (Holiday Rambler) Customer Service (877-466-6226). I've replaced ours once, not a difficult job, takes 5 to ten minutes.

I posted the details of our change from the Norcold to a household (Whirlpool) refrigerator in 2011. Take a look at that post and the following discussion for a wide variety of thoughts on the process.

We have a Whirlpool 21.7 cu ft residential refrigerator in our coach. I just checked the data that I can find on our model, ED2GVE, the information I have puts it usage at about 400 Watts maximum. That would be about 20% of your inverter capacity. We replaced our 2500 W inverter when it began to fail. In preparation for the residential refrigerator we put in a 3000 W sine wave inverter. I can't say that it was absolutely necessary. I made the assumption that the designers of our coach had figured the size of the inverter to meet the needs of the installed components and usual appliances that might be used in the coach. Adding an additional large load might require additional capacity from the inverter. Consider then that you are removing the load of the Norcold. I looked for specifications on the energy usage of the Norcold 1200 and didn't find any information. Changing from the Norcold to the Whirlpool may be a wash, no net change in maximum wattage. I can say that we are extremely happy with the change-over. We installed the Whirlpool in 2011 and it has performed flawlessly for five years of hard use. We are on the road for about six months each summer and the refrigerator sits idle all winter. We did not install additional house batteries, still have the 4 x 6V set-up. This could be an indication that there really wasn't that much difference in the energy use of the Whirlpool refrigerator. I did a write-up on our installation and the subsequent discussion may provide more useful information.

I like this web site, RV Electric, It not only shows how to wire outlets for RV's but also shows common wiring that is not suitable for RV's and how to test outlets for suitable supply. This is basic information everyone who plugs in an RV should understand before they even plug it in the first time. The site is very complete, it has 30A and 50A service explained and goes way beyond. There is information on proper wire sizing, making adapters, and much more. Keep this site handy for reference.

I've used a Garmin 3450LM (LM indicates lifetime maps, free upgrades) since 2012. I moved it from the coach to the toad for three years. Last year I found a Garmin 2757LM at Walmart for $200 and purchased it. I like the larger 7 inch screen, much easier to read on the dash of the motor home. Now the 3450 is in the toad and serves as a backup if there is a problem with the 2757. They both have the same maps which I've updated several times to get the latest information. I've used these all over the US and Canada. The were good in Newfoundland and Labrador last summer. We took the 3450 to Australia and New Zealand and purchased the micro SD chip with maps for both countries. The maps were excellent, took us through hundreds of round-abouts in both countries. I never found a problem with the maps in either country. It was really nice to have a familiar GPS for travel in a foreign country. I did have one funny episode in Australia. I wanted to put in a route from our current location to Broome. Every time I put it in it came up with a location in WA. I'm thinking, why is it listing Washington. After the third try I realized - Oh, dummy, WA is Western Australia! When I first started using GPS, we checked everything against our paper maps. Now it is pretty much just an occasional question about a particular route through or around a city. Louise will override the GPS decision on occasion. Otherwise, we find it to be quite reliable. Neither of the units above are specific for RV's. I've been quite happy without the RV specific units. I set the GPS for Bus routing and use lowclearances.com data for low clearance warnings and that works well. I just recently updated the low clearance data for this travel season. Garmin has several computer programs that work with the same map data for these units. The latest is Base Camp. It allows you to preview routes and construct several possible routes for consideration. I also use the older Garmin Mapsource which works with my Garmin topographic maps as well. I can plot a route and then switch to topographic maps which allows me to construct a route profile. I can see elevations of the entire route on a graph. It helps when planning routes near or through mountains.

The previous owner may well have left the manual with the coach. I believe that dealers who take a coach in trade immediately seek out and destroy the original manual. For what purpose I don't know. If anyone has purchased a used coach through a dealer and found the original owners manual in the coach I'd like to know what dealer!

Welcome Bill, We're just a little ways up-river from you! We are from this area but were full time for a while before putting a mobile home in the park we stay at each winter! Winter is so much nicer in the deep south! Now we leave the park each spring and travel for the summer. Next week we'll head NW toward South Dakota to visit with friends from our winter retreat. Then we're on to Colorado to visit with relatives. Just a couple of drifters!

On our coach the generator is extended by an hydraulic cylinder that is on only one side of the slide. This can result in the slide binding, pushed a little off to one side and it won't retract. The fix that has worked for me is to have someone hit the retract button as someone else is pushing on the generator. A good shove will usually release the bind and it retracts normally. To avoid this in the future, stop it's extension before it reaches the stop. It might help to also lubricate the rollers and check the track that they run on to ensure it is clean and clear of debris like small rocks, etc.

Walmart will give you the same rotation/balancing and road hazard coverage on automobiles and small trucks. I just had a flat repaired last week, no charge. Tire prices are excellent and the warranty coverage was only $9 per tire. I like Walmart because they are literally everywhere! Most tire chains will offer the same coverage but their locations are a lot farther apart than Walmart!

We started with a used coach in 2001. You have a head start as we never owned an RV before. I think you will find many things familiar and some things much nicer. Enjoy your travels.

There are several programs that will provide assistance if you have tire or other problems which could leave you stranded on the road or even in a campground. Sort of like AAA for automobiles, they will deliver road service, fuel, jump start, towing if needed. There are always terms and stipulations which should be read carefully. As a rule they will pay for the service call, you pay for the tire repair or if needed a replacement (may be used or new) tire. You aren't going to get service that will pay for everything, at least I know of none that provides for that. I wouldn't be out on the road with a large vehicle like a motor home without such coverage. I've had at least 6 times I've needed the service. Twice it was engine problems, two times blown tires, two times stuck in the mud (campsite one time, FMCA rally the other). Without the service you are paying for the tow and the service call but you also have to find the wrecker or tire repair service that can meet the needs of a large vehicle. Having people on the line who have a network of repair services they can call on is invaluable. Even today with the internet, I'd hate to have to go find the repair I need on my own. How many calls do you want to make while sitting on the side of the road before you find someone to help? It's never fun but they can make it easier. FMCA has it's Roadside Assistance plan (see the banner at the top of the FMCA home page). Good Sam also offers a similar service. We have Coach Net which used to be the service provider for the FMCA Roadside Service. I have had Good Sam and like Coach Net better. I haven't used the current FMCA plan. I'd bet they do an excellent job since they are vetted by FMCA. Their prices are competitive with the other plans. You may get a better introductory rate, you may be able to get a multi-year policy for slightly less than $109 per year but that is really a pretty good price considering what one tow truck call will cost you. There may be other providers out there but these would be the "big three" that I know.

Russ, Good point. I've been stopped several times (at least 3 that I can recall right now) for speeding, never owned anything that would go 123 MPH. I've never had a speeding ticket. I never argue or deny. Yes sir, you got me, I was doing xx (whatever he said) MPH. No sir, no excuse. It's like talking to airport security or customs and border protection, answer the questions asked, say nothing more. Be polite. It may not work every time, it sure can't make the matter worse.

Wryonki, Welcome to the forum. We have the Michelin XZA2 Energy tires on our coach. Very happy with them, nice ride, excellent quality tire. Here is a link to dealers in the RGV. I searched the area around McAllen but you can search from there to find dealers closer to Harlingen or Brownsville. If this doesn't have the dealers I saw, simply put in your zip code and search, there were three listed near McAllen, one is in Pharr, the other two in Edinburg. All are National Account dealers which means they should be familiar with and able to accommodate use of the FMCA Michelin Tire Discount program. If you aren't familiar with this program, check the information on the FMCA website. It will save you considerable cash on this purchase. When you look at dealers, run the cursor over the symbols on the dealer information to find the symbol that indicates a National Account dealer. Here is some unsolicited advice. Any dealer, any company that you purchase your tires from will be primarily a truck tire dealer. You want your tires installed on your motor home, not a truck. You need to tell them that you expect all tires to be balanced. This isn't standard with trucks. Your ride will be better than a truck if you have all balanced. Once the bead is set, they can (should) put the tires in the vertical safety stands to inflate them to full pressure. Have them torque the lug nuts. I had an aluminum wheel cracked by an overzealous tech with an air wrench. It was also the worst tire mounting I had. We were traveling so I stopped at another dealer and they check for roundness and found it will out of round and they found the cracked wheel. Live and learn. You also will want them to check to ensure that the tires are mounted so they are as close to round as possible. How can a tire not be round? You want them within 0.006 inches of a perfect circle (difference between highest and lowest point on the tire). That's really round. Some dealers will have instrumentation to check this. I've had this happen with other brands of tires and had to have them remounted (rotated 1/4 or 1/2 turn) to get the wheel and tire together to produce the desired accuracy. I had a tire tech explain to me once that the tires should be inflated to seat the bead with the tire horizontal so the wheel is in the center of the tire as opposed to vertical mounting where the wheel is resting on the lowest part of the tire. As the bead sets, it will be slightly off-center and thus the tire will not be round. Using this technique, I've never had a problem with Michelin tires being out of round. I just had 4 tires put on, specified I wanted manufacture dates (stamped on the tires) not more than 3 months old. They had to order them but had them in stock within a week. I had mine done in the Austin area while I was there for an extended stay. If you talk to a dealer and they aren't willing to work with you to get the best quality mounting, find another dealer. There are no shortage of dealers!