rayin

I have this product above the entry door, and above the sliding window by driver seat to re-direct water. https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-Drip-Rail-Plastic-Installs/dp/B01CJRH19Y/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524941283&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=epdm%2Bdrip%2Bchannel&th=1

Anyone know the outcome?

To update my evaluation of the Sailun 275/70 R 22.5 tires; they now have approx. 5,000 miles on them, ride very smoothly and hold the road well, they make a bit more noise than the old Goodyears. I attribute that to the tread design, which does not have the stone ejector strips in the Goodyear design.

This power consumption chart may be helpful: https://www.oksolar.com/technical/consumption.html when calculating your solar generating capacity vs power consumption.

I know little about solar systems. That said, Winnebago put a 10W solar panel on the roof of our MH, it only has a small red indicator light that illuminates when in sunlight. It is hard-wired to the house battery bank. I suppose that means a tiny bit of energy is being produced. I do know it's not enough to keep the battery bank maintained, even in full sunlight..

Keep in mind a block heater only heats the coolant, any heat to the oil is radiant unless you also have an oil pan heater. You have nothing to pre-heat the transmission and oil unless it is an aftermarket add-on.

I first thought I was looking at a pic of our MH until I read the narrative. I'll contact a friend who has the address of a different source for WWII records, hopefully it will be useful. I rhought

The Power Service Diesel 9.1.1 in a red bottle treats 100G diesel fuel. Since I topped off my tank last fall, I added a bottle of 9.1.1 to the tank 2 weeks ago, just prior to the below zero weeks we've had since then. If it was not needed, $12/bottle was cheap insurance IMO.

My simple test of my ISC Cummins engine heater; I turned the switch on, came back 2 hrs later, turned on key and temp gauge read 80°. The outside ambient temperature was -4°F. Sure it allows the starter to work more easily, but it does nothing to warm anything but the coolant and engine. One must drive judiciously until every drive train component is warmed to operating temperature in sub-freezing weather.

I didn't answer your question. The simplest way to avoid water pooling on the toppers is to raise the front end on the jacks during/after a rain/snow event just enough to allow drainage. Lower to level after a short time, so you don't get the frig cooling system upset. Some folks have used cheap inflatable beach balls to prop up the toppers, but I find using the jacks much easier.

After much thought, I'll forgo joining FMCA roadside assistance. I'll remain a member only for the emergency medical assist program. Now to these personal attacks. IMO it is reverse horn-blowing-ie; deride someone to make ones-self look better. Carl, lock this thread please. I'll converse with Mr. Bell via phone.

Ultimate Freedom!

That's what I use to keep the topper awning supported. DW's straight broom works well to position the beach ball and remove it when we make ready to travel. I wonder why bdsham doesn't have his LP tank filled delivered by tanker truck? It's hard on a diesel engine and transmission being started unless it's driven at least 20 minutes to reach normal operating temperature, and it will never reach normal operating temperature while idling; in fact it will cool down idling after being driven. Washing any vehicle in freezing weather doesn't sound good for the seals either.

What I have gleaned from reading about vehicles with electric power steering, and being towed 4-down, the negative battery cable must be disconnected in a positive way or the "fly-by-wire" electric power steering constantly keeps trying to sync the steering wheel and front wheel positions, as it is constantly powered. The result is destruction of the steering.

OOPS! Just noted I quoted your post instead of richard, sorry. Right! Looking into this further, curtsue and I have exactly the same axle GVW's, 19K rear, 12K front. Rear weighs more than front, agreed? Now raise RF corner 1" or more, what happens to weight on LF corner? The rear axle weight will prevent the RF corner from dropping to equalize front corner weights-UNLESS anyone thinks the frame will flex enough to equalize front corner weights. Thus my race care analogy.

That is a very old service bulletin-2007. It simply means Valvoline meets/exceeds the requirements of CES 20081. Sorry, I was being flippant; any diesel oil that meets/exceeds the requirements of CES 20081/CJ-4 is approved for use in any on-road diesel or gas engine running today.

Anyone who thinks ride height is not related to corner weight has never been involved with auto racing. I can post a page of links but most articles are so technical they would not bother to read them. Ride height is perhaps the single most important starting point when designing a race car.

Yep, Cummins now recommends Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40 diesel oil.

Open the Michelin Truck Tire Service Manual, pgs 55-58. You'll see pictures of similar tire problems. Locate the one most similar to your tire appearance. The narrative should describe what is happening and how to correct the cause.

How long since ride height was checked/set? That is the first step towards even weights on the corners, and also for total wheel alignment.

Having used both Roadmaster and Blue Ox, I can't discern any noticeable difference in performance. I now use a 10,000# Blue Ox due to weight of my '13 Silverado, still have the 6,000# Roadmaster tow bar in the garage we used to tow our Jeep GC.

Hopefully this Reyco-Granning IFS service manual will come in handy: https://www.spartanchassis.com/cps/login/UploadedFiles/D9834 IFS1200-1320-1370_3920091033404218750.PDF

Before deciding to sell by consignment, check with your insurance company. Some will not cover the MH while on consignment. I know Camping world does not insure or cover damage to a MH on their lot for service or consignment, others may have the same disclaimer.

My 2013 owners manual says to hold the knob to the right until the red N lights. Turn the key off and remove. There is no steering wheel lock. 2013 is the last year for hyd power steering. 2014 and later have electric power steering, which requires total removal of the neg cable from the battery, or the risk of ruining the power steering is sure. It sure tows great doesn't it.

I agree, works better than anything else. Of course with slow leaks you get huge bubbles....