rayin

Page 41 if the Oct. 18 issue shows a picture of a white car attached to a MH with a tow bar. That tow bar appears to be outside the safe limits of operation. Ideally the tow bar should be level when they are attached, I understand the maximum out-of-level is 4". If the purpose of the magazine is education, the editor should choose pictures with this in mind IMO.

Bear with my dumb questions. Are you using a towed braking system? Is it working properly? The Roadmaster falcon tow bar is rated for 6,000#, during emergency/hard braking a 4,000# vehicle can exert more pressure that that against the locking pins.

Now TST has an internal monitor system that works with all our tires, both coach and towed(replaces OEM sensors).

The last time I was concerned about fuel price was driving in Canada to/from AK.. The average price was the equivalent of $6/G. US. I plan fuel stops for PFJ locations for the convenience. Fuel up, eat dinner, park overnight, eat breakfast and pull out on the super-slab again. If there is any loud noise there we never notice, we trained ourselves to sleep with a white-noise machine long ago.

The best pricing for caravaning is with S.M.A.R.T. The requirement for joining is one must be active or former military. Their limit for number of units are between 13 and 20, and travel in groups of four; most of the time they fill up rather quickly.

I was under the impression the red dye was eliminated, and now it's simply on- or off-road diesel fuel(no road tax charged), after LSD was banned.

You are right of course, good catch. My basement air unit will not start for 2-3 minutes after switching in on, regardless if it hasn't been used in a week or 5 minutes.

👍 The new part of I 69 in S. Indiana has 3 major bridges, at each end of those bridges the pavement sank about 4" after construction. Some folks pulling a TT hit it and nearly lost control, I was far enough behind to slow down (thanks whoever you were). So the state put signage saying "bump"???? some months later the blacktop pavement was leveled with the bridge concrete.. Here we are a year later and the pavement is again sinking in the same spots. Since you guys are talking about food; DW picked up some persimmons last week, ran them through the collander to separate the seeds, then made a persimmon pudding. Warm persimmon pudding topped with ice cream, is as good as it gets.

Newsprint contains soy-oil, which fills microscopic pits in glass and makes it appear new. It's not as good IMO as the newsprint used 40-50 + years ago though. Remember when reading a newspaper got your hands black? That was the best for cleaning windows.

Motorhome charge air coolers and custom radiators. I think replacing radiator caps is the first thing to do, have new one tested before leaving the parts store though. I have, in the past, bought new caps, got home and they also tested faulty. Mark a line(should already be a cold fill level anyway) on your expansion/overflow tank at liquid level- when cold. Recheck liquid level next morning before starting engine. If it's empty or quite low, inspect the transfer hose for leaks and overflow tank for cracks. Now the serious note, If no leaks are found, there is a possibility the head gasket is leaking into a cylinder on the intake stroke. The engine will vaporize any liquid and exhaust it away instead if it getting into the oil pan.

Some air conditioners have a built-in delay to account for switching power sources, mine does, but I do as Carl stated anyway JIC. I have plenty of time, money_not so much.

I was in the same situation at the RV park and motel on the East end of Havre, MT. The main switchyard is on the other side of the fence.

By the time I found out about the class action suit I was 2 days too late to join. Tried calling the law firm to no avail.

In your electrical bay you should see a box labeled "ATS" if you have an automatic transfer switch. Repeating what Bill said, do not switch power sources with heavy-demand appliances running, it's hard on the switching mechanism, which can lead to premature failure. Owners manual re: exercising a generator; Onan recommends running under 1/2 load or more for 2 hrs monthly. The goal is to dispel any moisture from the windings, which is only accomplished by heat.

Read your coach, Cummins, and Allison owners manuals to locate the normal maintenance schedules. I must do that every time, as there are so many items, remembering is quite difficult. For instance, the air filter should not require changing at 30,000 miles. Cummins says to only change when the filter minder shows at the red mark. Every time the intake system is disturbed it increases the odds of improper sealing, leading to dusting an engine. This may be informative: http://pjrider.com/Cummins.htm

This is the bookmark I have for a replacement compressor: http://www.ptacsolutions.com/search.asp?keyword=tecumseh+ac+compressor+rka5512exa&search=GO Here is collection of bookmarks for the basement unit: Winnebago basement heat pump AC under the coach,removal Start Device Package for Coleman Air Conditioners 8333A9021 Automotive Basement AC Removal & Outdoor Blower Replacement Procedure - iRV2 Foru (...) Welcome to S2 Distribution, Inc. dba PTAC SOLUTIONS - The Web's Largest and Most Experienced HVAC Parts and PTAC Specialists 2 Two TON Plus Basement Air Conditioner W/HP 24,000 BTU 46515-811 Airxcel | RV Products | Specialty Air Conditioners Replacing the Coleman Mach thermostat with an Ecobee Coleman 46515-811 69859 Two Ton Plus Basement Central Air Conditioner 24000 BTU Airxcel | RV Products | Service Coleman Mach - ACs, Heat Pumps & Thermostats for RVs | AIrxcel Amazon.com: Coleman 46515811 2 Ton A/C Basement: Automotive Winnebago repairs + heat pump

Doesn't an Allison transmission control module keep a permanent mileage log?

I can add to what you have accurately stated. The HDT shop that does all my MH work charges $135/hr labor, the owner pays his mechanics $35/hr and is constantly advertising for mechanics (and is understaffed) that meet his standards. His business in repairing MH's is growing constantly as word of his quality, accuracy, and swiftness of completing jobs spreads. Yet, when talking to other MH owners who are searching for (their words) the best place to get work done, they say "oh, those rate are way too high". When will people learn, you really do get what you pay for___. Last time I stopped in to say Hi to Dave, he was working on a Monaco W/ smart wheel that had nothing working. He located the problem, the thru-the-firewall transition plug had corroded pins and sockets. He cleaned away the corrosion and the smart wheel worked as designed again. This boils back to the considerable risks of starting up a MH repair shop. Oh, that shop is: Carmichael Truck and Automotive

re: total alignment; I had a local HDT repair shop do the alignment on mine. Any shop that aligns transit bus's is qualified for MH chassis too. The rear axle was off by 3/4", the Reyco-Granning IFS specs were not correct in their alignment computer and a test drive at highway speed uncovered the error. I downloaded the Reyco-Granning service/alignment specs and gave them tot shop owner, who immediately had our MH re-aligned using the factory specs. The second test drive was steady and comfortable steering. I completed my handling/steering improvement with the addition of new Bilstein shocks and reset ride height(which should have been done prior to alignment per Spartan, Reyco-Granning)

Peruse this webpage to read about popular TPMS: http://www.motorhome.com/motorhomes/motorhome-gear/air-apparent-a-tpms-buyers-guide/ That does not however discuss the TST internal sensor package for 10 tires.

There is no such thing as an extended warranty on an RV, autos yes.

My 1999 Allison 3060 says Dextron III on the dipstick, which is what was used when the oil was changed.

Like BennieH, I too found the best internet prices on MH shocks at shockwarehouse.com front and rear Bilsteins ware under $89 ea.; Bilsteins were the OEM shocks when our MH was new. BTW, Bilsteins have a lifetime warranty. If money is no object look at Roadmaster MH shocks, IMO you really do get what you pay for.

Replace the coolant temp sensor, it's a bear to access on a slide-out genset. Sometimes it has been there so long it's corroded into the metal housing, which breaks when a rough hand is on the wrench.

Yep, my air conditioner fill port is to the left(looking at gen) of the generator, below the air box. I simply went to WalMart, purchased a large can of R134A + stop leak W/gauge to tell me when the system is full. It took about 1/2 can to reach the green zone. That was 2013 when we bought our Winnebago on Spartan MM chassis, it's worked great ever since. Total cost $19. MH had been in storage 8 years prior to purchase and freon had leaked out over time.