richard5933

We went through this about a year ago on our coach. Here's what I found: Not worth replacing just the bearings - the motors don't cost that much so if you're going to go through the effort of replacing the bearings you might was well just install a new motor. You might be able to get a little more time from the furnace if you are able to get oil to the bearings, but once they start squealing it's really just a matter of time till the motor seizes up. Once I had ours apart enough to access the bearings to oil them, I figured I might as well just replace the motor since I didn't want to have to repeat the process in a few months. My time was worth more than the cost of the motor, and we all know that the thing is most likely to seize up on the coldest morning of the year when you really need it. Some of these furnaces were subject to a recall for some serious safety issues. Before spending time/money/effort on a repair check yours to see if it was subject to a recall, and if so was the necessary repair completed properly. Based on my experience with them, Atwood will not sell motors to individuals, only to repair shops/dealers. Not really a problem as motors are easy to get elsewhere. Installation is pretty straightforward if you're good at taking things apart and putting them back together. The manual shows an exploded diagram of the furnace, so I used that as my guide. I also took lots and lots of close-up photos BEFORE taking parts off so that I would know how to put them back. While you're in there, it's probably a good plan to do a routine maintenance on the whole furnace - lots of information about this online. I didn't verify that this is the exact replacement for your furnace motor, but it's a start: https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/atwood-hydroflame-furnace-blower-motor-37357 Here's a link to the thread about my repairs if you want: Obviously a different and older furnace, but it might help you some. All that said, these furnaces are not that terribly expensive. Depending on the overall condition of the unit, it might be worth your time to just find another on sale somewhere and swap it out. Good luck!

Actually, states tell the fed 'no' all the time. This is one of those areas where state's rights and federal rules come into conflict. It's also one of those things that gets some people really fired up. There was a big tumult when this thing was passed about it being the creation of a federal ID card, and even though this is not a federal ID there are people who don't want one. The federal rules state that after the cut-off non-compliant IDs will not be valid for things like boarding an airplane or going into federal courthouses. The rules don't require anyone to actually have a compliant ID. With very rare exceptions, there is actually no requirement that anyone have any ID at all if they don't want one - but of course that will limit things like being able to drive, etc. To each his own. My understanding of Wisconsin rules is that they will continue to issue non-compliant cards, although these will not be valid for federal purposes and will actually state "not for federal identification" on the face of them. The Wisconsin website states that holders of a non-compliant ID will need additional ID materials to serve federal purposes after the cutoff. If a purple state like Wisconsin is making non-compliant IDs available, I'm sure that there are other states doing the same. I've had a Real ID for a few years now, and to be honest don't have a strong opinion on this one either way other than it seems to add to the line wait times at the DMV while the clerks go through all the varieties of paperwork that are brought it.

It's possible to obtain/renew a driver's license in some states that is not Real ID compliant, even in states that are issuing Real ID licenses. Here in Wisconsin there are people who, for various reasons, don't want a Real ID. At least for now, there is no requirement for them to provide the necessary paperwork to upgrade, and they can continue to renew their old-style license. Of course, it won't have the star and won't be acceptable for certain things in the coming years barring any changes to the deadline/rules.

Funny how different we are on this. I have absolutely no hesitation leaving my Capital One card with a clerk since I have zero liability should something go wrong. I get instant notifications every time the card is used, and one swipe on my phone and the card is shut down and useless to anyone. The main reason I keep that card is because they seem to do a much better job on security than other banks I've got cards through. Of course, when I go inside and talk to the clerk I'm also evaluating the situation. If the place looks sketchy or if there are other reasons for concern I can easily just go down the road. If I have reason to suspect the staff behind the desk, then I also have reason to suspect the fuel in the tanks and everything else about the place.

A few suggestions... 1) Some stations will have a preset limit per swipe - not much you can do about that but swipe again and again as needed. Oddly, MasterCard will often have a $100 limit but Visa will stop at $75, at least on stations around here. They say it's got something to do with how their swipe systems are set up. Usually there is no problem with just swiping again and restarting the whole process. 2) If the attendant allows, I've had luck getting them to turn on the pump so that I can fill all the way up by leaving my driver's license and credit card with them at the desk. 3) Better option, use a truck fuel station and not an automotive/RV station. They are usually better set up for large fill ups. However, I've run across stations on a few tollways that could not authorize a fill up unless you've got a fleet card. Getting a fleet card is an option if you're going to use their stations. 4) Similar to #3, get a card from Pilot/Flying J through Good Sam and set it up with Pilot/Flying J for use as a credit card. Isn't difficult to set up, and once you've got it filling the tank is much easier. However, in many truck stops you'll still have to go to the fuel desk to get the pump turned on since their outside control pads don't always work. https://www.rvpluscard.com/default.aspx

I was applying for a visa and the issuing country required a copy of my birth certificate with an apostile. The steps required for this were really astounding. First, I had to submit a request to NYC for a certified copy of my birth certificate. It came on special paper w/integrated water marks and other security devices. Even making a photocopy or scan is impossible since some of the security devices don't copy/scan. It would have been difficult/impossible to print one of these on a home computer. The birth certificate contained a unique document number which could be confirmed as real with a single phone call to the proper office in New York. Since I needed this certificate to eventually have an apostile, it was contained an exemplification. The exemplification is a document signed by an official of the NYC health department attesting to the authenticity of the certificate and permanently attached to the birth certificate. Then the birth certificate with exemplification was sent to the county health department, where a county official permanently attached yet another certification letter, this time stating that the document's exemplification done by the NYC official was real, and that the whole package passed inspection. I wasn't done yet. I then submitted the certified copy of my birth certificate, complete with exemplification AND county certification to the State of NY. There, the NY secretary of state's office permanently attached yet another document to the face of all this, the official apostile. The apostile is a document with the official seal which confirms that the certificate and it's accompanying documents are real. The whole process took about a month, but would have taken much longer had I not paid for expedited service. Every step in this process can easily be confirmed - a single phone call to any of the official's offices involved would be all that's required to have the document verified should any questions arise when I submit the birth certificate. I realize that most people don't need an apostile on their birth certificate. But, my point is that it's not really that easy to duplicate a birth certificate and evade detection. They contain numerous security devices, and a single phone call to the issuing agency is all that's necessary for any concerned official to confirm that the contents are authentic. A 'regular' certified birth certificate was all I needed decades ago to obtain my driver's license. Good thing, because I had no other identifying documents. I believe that nowadays it must be accompanied by a social security card (or other documents to prove SSN) and documents to prove current address to obtain a Real ID compliant license. In the end, the whole system relies on the clerk at the DMV to be the gatekeeper. They are the ones that are responsible for identifying any documents which seem suspect. If the few times I've been at the DMV office near us is any indication, it seems that they take this pretty seriously. I've seen people turned away and told to get additional/better/updated documents. Not a fool-proof system, but it's the one we've got right now.

You've haven't tried to get an authenticated birth certificate lately then, especially one with an apostile that is valid for international use. Between the type of paper used, the seals applied, and the paper trail that is created to verify a birth certificate it would be difficult for one to do what you're saying. I'm pretty certain that a birth certificate issued nowadays can easily be verified by the receiving agency if they have reason to question it. I recently had to get an authenticated birth certificate from NY City, and start to finish the process took a few weeks and required three separate forms with three separate agencies. If a birth certificate isn't accepted to establish one was born in the USA, then there would be no way to start the process of establishing identity and obtaining other documents like a passport or Real ID driver's license. Babies aren't born with passports or photo IDs.

If you've got a hole in the frame, you might be able to install a Rivnut to use to hold the cage on as well.

The OP's original question has been answered a couple of times. Long-haul or regional monikers are not as important as getting a tire with the proper speed rating, proper load rating, and proper size. And, all of these will be meaningless unless the tires are properly inflated for the load actually being carried. To answer the question again, here's a link to the information from the Michelin website detailing the differences between the various categories of tires: https://www.michelintruck.com/tires-and-retreads/tires/tires-101/tire-selection-tips/application/ According to the chart, both long-haul and regional tires would be appropriate for an RV, but the choice would depend on how they are used and on what the priorities are for the owner (high mileage vs. comfort vs. ability to withstand rough roads, vs. etc.)

I'm no LP expert, but it seems to me that if your remote tank has it's own regulator, then you could install a 'T' fitting between the existing regulator and the flex line coming out the end of it? After the 'T' fitting, a shut off valve and then a quick connect fitting similar to what is used to connect outdoor grills. The quick connect would be used to hook up the portable tank. On the portable tank you'd need a regulator and a hose terminating in the mating piece to the quick connect fitting mounted on the coach. A LP dealer or repair shop should be able to build the necessary hose(s) for this and advise on the best fittings to use. There was a lengthy thread on a similar issue recently - probably some great advice in there.

How do you know if the tire dealer is qualified? What I did was basically 'interview' a couple of local shops after talking with others to get suggestions. One was clearly trying to fulfill his agenda, the other was clearly trying to help me get the right tire to meet my needs. He also was willing to do the research necessary to answer questions, and spent the time to help me understand the options. He seemed knowledgeable and to have the experience to find the correct information. Of course you have to be as informed as possible as a consumer, but for someone new to the game my point is that it's helpful to have the assistance of someone in the field. The reason I use the term 'qualified' is to differentiate between someone who happens to be standing behind a sales counter from someone that actually knows his business and has the training necessary. Shouldn't be hard to tell after just a few minutes of conversation. I agree with you about the lack of information on the Hankook site. Not at all easy to navigate through and not at all easy to find what's needed to make a decision. Contrast that with the Tire Data Book that Firestone puts out - theirs is full of information and is pretty easy to use. Links from the FMCA site to the manufacturer's site would be helpful, but only if the manufacturer's site actually has the correct information.

I think that something making some of these charts even more confusing is how the data is displayed differently depending on the target audience. Some charts list weight per axle end, some list the weight per tire. It's important to read all the fine print on the charts. The chart linked to above is targeted at the RV audience, and appears to include weight per axle end, not per tire. The same size tires in another manufacturer's chart (or the non-RV version of this same chart) will most likely show different numbers since it's per wheel/tire. If anyone is at all confused when reading the charts then it's probably a good idea to consult a qualified tire dealer for help. Nothing to be embarrassed about. When I first got the inflation charts for my Firestone tires, there were so many lines and details that I had to use a highlighter to be sure that I was always looking at the proper information and not distracted by the lines for kg and other non-relevant data.

The complexity of choosing tires can be simplified if you find a reliable and qualified tire dealer. Knowing that I'll be replacing tires on our coach this spring, I visited a couple of local commercial tire dealers with good reputations over the winter. I went to the places that were known to treat customers well, not but necessarily the least expensive shops. I talked with the manager of the sales end to get a feel for what they recommend after explaining my concerns. After about 20 minutes in each shop it was clear to me that one shop was going to push me towards what they want to sell, and the other towards what would serve my needs best. The manager at that shop also took time to look into the specs for the tires, show me the inflation charts, and run through the details with me. With so many variables in tires (size, weight rating, comfort vs. durability, regional vs. long haul, etc) I'm in the camp where I would rather pay a few more dollars for the tires in order to get the confidence of working with a tire dealer that will stick with me and help me get the best tires for my needs.

The chart in that publication shows that the tires mounted on the 8.25" rims, so that's a good thing (if that's what you have). The only missing piece in the equation is what your coach's actual weight is. Unless I missed it somewhere in this thread, I don't believe you've posted it. If you don't have a current weight, perhaps you can run across a scale on your way to the dealer.

Mounting a tire on a rim narrower than the specifications can be done. We have it on our tires/wheels. However, there is a reduction in the load capacity when this is done. For example, our tires have a max pressure of 130psi when mounted on a 9" rim. When on a 8.25" rim like we have the max pressure is only 120psi. The max load capacity drops from what's possible at 130psi to what's possible at 120psi. I've just tried to find the appropriate information in the Hankook technical manual but had no success. I couldn't even find the tire you're looking at in the size you need. Not saying it's not there, just that I couldn't find it. My suggestion is to contact Hankook and get the specs on the load capacity when mounted on your rims. Would really suck to have them mounted and then later on find out that the narrower rims reduced the capacity below where you need it to be.

I know that our beast is a different species, but our coach came from the factory with a louvered belly pan under the entire engine bay. Ours serves two purposes - it helps direct airflow in the most optimal manner possible for engine cooling, and it prevents all kinds of road debris from getting sucked through the engine bay and/or radiator. Before removing it, I'd want to know what the airflow patterns are in the rear of the coach - particularly when driving over grassy areas. I've seen some coaches create a virtual vortex behind/under the engine bay as they crawl through campgrounds, and it doesn't take much imagination to picture what the radiator would look like if that debris was somehow introduced into the radiator's air flow. Some coaches can develop some pretty bizarre low-pressure zones under/behind/near the rear of the vehicle, so it might be a good idea to think this through before discarding this if it was factory installed.

Did the mobile repair guy give you any indication of why he wasn't able to install the kit? From your description it sounds like he wasn't able to gain access to the necessary gas line plumbing parts, but that's just a guess. Perhaps the problem is that there is not room the install the necessary hardware? Can you post a few photos of the bay holding your propane tank(s) as well as the area surrounding the plumbing?

Whether or not a LEO takes over and arranges a tow for you is very dependent on the situation. When we had our collision in Iowa, our coach wasn't blocking the state highway, but the wrecker would when it did the recovery. I was going to try and arrange a tow through my policy, but in the end I accepted the officer's offer to find someone local. It was the best idea really - we were in a small town far from anywhere, and he knew which wrecker services had the equipment needed to pull our coach from the ditch and to his tow yard. The insurance company's 800-number operator was still asking me stupid questions when the wrecker called by the trooper arrived. Took them about an hour to recover and load up our coach - had to pull axles, drag out of the ditch, and then properly lift the front of the coach. Insurance company ended up eating the cost in the final settlement. All that said, we still have tow coverage from our insurance company. God willing, we won't need to use it and if we do the next time we need to use it the reason will be far more benign.

At least we didn't have the blizzard that rolled through the more northern parts of Wisconsin this weekend, complete with 100+ car pile up which shut down the Interstate. Many injured and I believe at least one death. What they got makes our weather seem downright mild.

Same thing here - winds have been straight-line since last night steady over 30 mph. We've had extended periods with the wind steady over 50 mph. Sounds like a train going by when it comes from just the right direction. Really glad I installed the 'optional' support wires on my vertical ham antenna. Temp will go from high of 38F to single digits tonight. Can't wait for spring. This is starting to wear me out.

Knowing the make/model really helps us try and focus our replies to your specific situation. There are so many rigs that fall in the class A category, ranging from bus conversions to the GMC motor homes made decades ago. Not everyone has a modern "normal" motor home. Some have wood framing under fiberglass skins, some metal, and some have limited or no framing at all. Knowing what you're working on is important. I'm not sure about others, but I read posts on the FMCA forum on a smartphone, using a format that shows me only my "unread" posts. I don't go forum by forum, so it's easy to miss which specific forum you posted in. I apologize for not noticing which forum you posted in.

One thing missing from any GPS unit that I've used is 'back azimuth'. Would be great to just have a button that would take us back from where we started, particularly when the starting point was not a saved place.

Agreed. Garmin is great till it's not. We usually stop at the welcome center when entering a state for the first time and pick up a free road map. Usually the most current maps. Having been a Boy Scout, I do like to be prepared. According to Murphy, the GPS will cut out on the piece of road where you need the most help.

According to the link regional tires are designed for 30,000 - 80,000 miles per year, highways with some secondary routes. Seems like many tires are sold as 'cross-over' tires for both regional and long-haul use. Regional vs long haul tire has nothing to do with max speed rating. Tires in both categories are easy to find with a 75-mph max speed rating. My understanding is that it is more to do with tread life and ability to withstand scrubbing and abrasion and scuffing. Long haul tires are often designed to maximize fuel economy and longevity - designed to go more than 100,000 in a year. They have lower rolling resistance, light weight constructions, and a rubber compound to survive high miles. Regional tires will be built to withstand operation in tight quarters, curb scrubbing, life on rough and gravel roads, etc. Tire design is really a compromise, balancing the various aspects. Harder rubber compounds to increase mileage - ride suffers. Thicker sidewalls to protect against curbs - heavier tire. Etc. Etc. Whether a tire is regional or long-haul is somewhat subjective, and to me more important is getting a tire with the proper load limit and speed rating. Best advice I can suggest is talk to a good commercial tire dealer and get their advice. If the dealer you're talking to is telling you that any tire he sells will start to shed tread after 5-6 hours on the highway then I think it's time to find another tire dealer.

I believe that you'll find tires with and without the decoupling groove in both long haul and regional tires. Here's a page with a brief description of the various types of tires: https://www.bfgoodrichtrucktires.com/tires/tires-101/tire-selection-tips/application/