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I have a 2018 Baystar, 36 ft., F53 chassis. Do sumo springs and anti sway bars do the same thing for swaying ?

Thinking of installing sumo springs on my 2007 ford F53 class A 33’ chassis any thought good or bad if it would be worth the cost thanks

Has any one installed sumo springs on their class A ford F53 front, back or both any improvements. mine is a 2007 33’ fleetwood .

I need recommendations for my Class A Holiday Rambler Vacationer Ford F53 22,000 GVWR. My Class A shakes, rattles, and rolls. A technician has recommended Sumo Springs. Has anyone tried this and can recommend. Or any other recommendations will be appreciated. Thanks, John

Herman is absolutely correct, you gotta check all of those things first, because putting Sumo’s brings on it and having bad bearings bushings and other things does nothing but waste your money and waste your time. There is no fix for preventative maintenance when it comes to bushings and bearings. Also, while you’re under there, check those king pins and make sure they are good, I would also install centrifugal rings on your front and rear axles, but at minimum your front so

John, need a bit more information. Year of RV. Have you checked your shocks, checked all bushings including stabilizer, balanced your tires, had tires inspected, had RV aligned. These are less expenses than before going to Sumo Springs. Herman

If you have them, would you do it again? Do you have 2 or 4? If you were to install only two, front or rear and why? Expensive for 4, but my MH is rough riding on most roads! Bridges, ruts, and concrete strip drive me crazy. I average about two big trips, mileage wise, per year and 8-10 three-four hour trips. Last year we were out 94 days. So trying to justify purchase.

Hello, I have had my 2007 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager 8368 37 foot. She weights about 22,000 lbs.For about 6 months now and it only had 44,000 miles on it, I had the brakes serviced Right after I bought it and found out that all 4 rotors were cracked and two brake shoes were missing or just too worn down. Was informed that the last owner was what they call a BRAKE RIDER-- never learned to use his gears and his engine to do the braking for him and I have a gas coach, so a complete brake job cost me around $3,750. Well the RV place that only does suspensions upgrade recommended to me that I install a Safe-T-Plus Motion Control Unit for the front steering, also replace the shocks. They recommended Koni's for a total of 8 shocks 2 per wheel. Also a Trac Bar Rear End for side play (Dog Wag) they call it. Also Sumo Springs front and rear to help out the leaf springs. Before I do all this, they and I will go on a drive test to see what I really need for the suspension. I have driven one RV that had about $5,000 dollars worth of suspension upgrades and that gas coach drove like a Cadillac no making turns and your front end dips down like you are going to touch the pavement and no rocking while driving if you are driving on a roads that has ruts and I really noticed a big difference from they way mine drives and the one I just drove with all the upgrades, so by that said has anyone else recommend anything to help out or to add to what I would like to do to the suspension upgrade? My goal is to travel cross country in it and just want to have a more comfortable drive. The Banks systems they installed sure makes a difference when driving on the hwy.

I have a 2018 3312 Newmar Bay Sport. I am looking for a service company to do a wheel alignment, balancing and some suspension upgrade (Sumo Springs). I live in northcentral Ohio. Does anyone have any suggestions please. Thanks in advance for the help

Welcome to the forum. Have you called Sumo Springs to see if they have a installer in the area. I would guess if they can do the springs they can do the rest. Bill

Just bought a 2015 Tiffin Allegro (32sa) and saw there is an option for Sumo Springs read many reviews and it seems like a good idea to have them installed before we take delivery but I have also been told because we opt for the 24000 lb chassis we don't need the springs. But I guess the torsion bar is a good idea. Anyone else had them installed on their RV?

Yes I have heard good things about the Liquid Spring setup. I heard they were coming out with a front setup. Still a little pricey for just the back ran around $12,500 installed. Till then you could add Sumo Springs to the front. https://www.supersprings.com/products/sumosprings/. You are at a point where putting that money toward a coach upgrade might make more sense or at least something to think about. jfalessi, See how well we can spend your money. Bill

Anti-sway bars! The sumo springs will make the ride harsher than now.

cnweeds64, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. They both reduce swaying, but in very different ways. The Sumo springs add to the effective spring rate, so less sway, but, also affect ride quality. If underloaded (actual weight under GAWR's) this could give you a stiffer ride. If close to or overloaded, it will help with ride quality as you will not bottom out as easily. Sway bars and stiffer sway bar bushings abosolutely help with sway with no change in ride quality/stiffness. So, first question is what are your actual axle weights Vs GAWR's?

I have a 2017 Tiffin 32SA Open Road and I am looking at the Liquid Springs for improve ride. I have installed Sumo Springs and a Safe Plus Stabilizer and there were improvements after installation but the ride over a rough highway was still a rough ride. I have not replaced the factory shocks. I drive 65 to 70 mph when the road surface and speed limit allow. When trucks pass it is not a real concern some movement. but manageable.. How does the Liquid Springs ride compare to an air suspension ride? I have never driven or been a passenger in an air suspension coach. Webb

Sumo Springs add to effective spring rate. That can be good or bad, depending on whether your actual axle weights are under or over GAWR's. So, to move forward, by far the best answer is to load the coach as you travel and weigh the wheel positions (better) or much more easily at many truck stops each axle and compare that the GAWR's from Ford. That will also allow you to accurately determine correct minimum tire pressure (which certainly affects both ride and handling).

Update!! 6 brand new tire, new sumo springs on the fronts and rears. Although when they went to put them on whatever the sway bar attaches to on the rear to the frame needed to be replaced as well. Drives so much better. It was my first RV I have ever been in I didn’t know it was not supposed to rock or sway as much as it did. But now when a semi passes me on the highway the rig no longer sways.👍 and it doesn’t feel all over the road so that’s awesome. As for the fridge, I pretty much maxed out my credit card on the tires and stuff so I bit the bullet and ordered a pores/circuit board online. They had one for an open package deal someone returned for $90. With free return if it doesn’t work so I took a chance on that one. Because I’m pretty much broke and am hoping for the best. Read up the wiring diagram for NorCold. Unhooked the. Old one hooked up the new one and so far *nock on wood... runs perfectly on the LP now. Yeay!!! I’m so excited. Saved some money and did it myself.😁 thank you everyone for all of your help input and inspiration!

I assume that this is a typeO! If so, yes replace those tires before hitting the road, much more important than Sumo springs unless the coach is dragging. If it doesn't handle and drive well, then consider these. Hard tires, (old) do not drive or ride well either.

The wife and i just bought this rv.It is our first rv. We took it to California for our first trip. We almost blew off the road.At our rv location in cali are neighbor told us to get a stabilizer bar. Which we did when we returned home.We then took to mexico last week. The ride was better but not great. I have been researching many different things.sumo springs , trac bar , upgraded front and back sway bars and new Koni shocks.We also heard about liquid spring which tiffin is considering as an option. They only have for the back as of now but should have the front system done soon.I spoke with a guy name Rick who was a client of liquid springs. He has has all upgrades , and then installed the liquid spring on the back and left the rest of upgrades on front.Does any one else have liquidspring and or any advice for a better ride and safer for us. Thanks much--Chris

Liquid only has there system for the back for now. They should have for front soon.Wolfe the coach you tried what did the front have on it stock , sumo , new shocks etc...

Manholt/Wolfe i have brung my coach to be looked at by straight line suspension.You can see on the kitchen side it really leans to it. Lots of weight including the water tank.He suggest another spring. Also sumo front and back. Koni shocks and a bigger sway bar for back. My question is. For a 2018 tiffin 34pa gas coach what can i do for suspension upgrades to really give a good ride. Air bags , liquid springs etc..

"Cut Corners" not necessarily.... The next time you are at a RV dealer or show check out an Dynamax Isata 3 M-B Sprinter Class C. They are easily as nice as any Class B on the market....and we've looked at all of them. Now to get that level of fit and finish you pay around $20-30K more than for the exact same M-B chassis, with the same floor plan, as on a Sunseeker / Forester MBS just like we owned. The higher end fit and finish of a Dynamax is all you're buying along with a second year of warranty. I won't toss that much money in to any depreciating asset just for appearance. That's the same reason I usually drive Fords instead of Lincolns.... You've already spent way more...including my mods. My MSRP was just over $100K, with every option except the diesel, and I didn't pay nearly that amount. Here if you aren't getting at least 20-25% off MSRP you aren't trying... New Forest River Class C motor homes come standard with a one piece fiberglass roof. The only roof seams are at the front and rear caps. Those do require annual maintenance checks and may require re-caulking. But I can always go to one of the vendors in the FMCA magazine, like RVRoof.com, and have a spray on roof added on top of the existing roof that is warranted against leaks and requires zero maintenance. What should be and what is are often two very different things. M-B delivered a commercial cargo van that RoadTrek modified. The suspension on a Sprinter from the factory is designed as a compromise that needs to handle various load, and road, conditions. How much does you unit weigh when fully loaded? How close to the 11,030 pound GVWR are you? Knowing those two answers will help when considering any upgrades. Just upgrading the stock shocks can make a huge difference in comfort and handling. Adding a Hellwig rear sway bar is something most Sprinter based rigs can benefit from as well. The Hellwig provides so much improvement that Forest River now adds it on all their Sprinters our MBS was one of the first to have it standard. Sumo Springs are another very popular addition for Class C conversions. We've boon docked in the past...and I agree it is much more peaceful. Here in the southeast it isn't as readily available as out west...unless you consider BLM / COE type campgrounds to be boon docking...I don't. The TS has a 35 gallon fresh water tank, a 30 gallon grey tank, and a 30 gallon black tank so cold water isn't an issue. And we have a 9.8 gallon LP tank so if we want to boon dock it is "doable"... We're planning a trip to Alaska and looking at Eastern Canada as well... In the mean time we stay fairly active with the Forest River Owners Group (FROG) Rallies and non-group solo activities... We are "solar ready"... Our rig can standard with a Zamp interface but from what I've read that doesn't mean much. That is on my list to check out before Alaska... What are you doing?

mhandley99 (sorry, don't know whether you are Mike, Barb or Buddy). Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Safe-T-Plus-- one of the best steering dampeners/"return to center" after a turn. But, would only add this one last and only after proper alignment (with caster set at high end of spec) and toe-in to high end of spec) and the tracking still left something to be desired. Sumo springs-- really depends on actual axle weights vs GAWR's. Said another way, if you are well under axle capacities, probably not where I would start. If you are close to axle capacities, then an excellent addition. Rear track bar-- probably where I would start-- an excellent help with handling. You did not mention shocks-- Koni FSD's are expensive, but will both help soften the ride AND give better handling (two sets of valves allow for both). CHF a good idea, but insure that the links line up properly of use aftermarket ones.

Mike, Barb. Welcome to the Forum! Sorry, you too Buddy! Have your coach weight front and back, then each corner, that's in travel mode with all of you in it and full fuel, water and all that you will be taking with you on the road. But, before you do that, have your front alignment checked along with toe and caster. I have always liked Safe-T-Plus and have used them on several gas coaches and 2 DP's. Good choice. Heavier Trac bar than factory is good. What is CHF? Sumo's are good, have you checked out Liquid Springs?

First time on forum. Some of my question may have already been answered, but wanted to get a collective opinion on the best steering additions for our Newmar Bay Star (F53 chassis). We're new to RVing and plan to be near full-timers starting this summer. To try and get ahead of any potential driving issues, I plan to add these additions to the new Bay Star. Overkill or good long-term investments? Appreciate the responses. Safe-T-Plus on front Sumo springs front/back Trac bar on rear CHF Mike, Barb & Buddy