dpersch Report post Posted April 24, 2018 We just purchased our first motor home. It is a 2006 Lexington M-255DS, and it is 26'. This rig does not have any on-board leveling. The previous owner said because it is a smaller rig he never had a need for any leveling devices, or chocks. I'm assuming I need both some type of leveling system, and chocks. My questions are: (any product recommendations would be appreciated) Will I need chocks? Will I need a leveling device/system? If I need to level the rig do I need to level both rear tires, or just the outside tire? Thanks Doug Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted April 24, 2018 dpersch, welcome to the forum! I'm a bit surprised that was the response you got from the previous owner. You will need someway of leveling it for comfort and to make certain the refrigerator is level for proper operation. You could purchase a crank jack system and a set of Lynx Levelers. I found ourselves pulling the coach onto the blocks often and dropping the manual jacks to give it that little bit more to level it and it also helped stabilize the coach so it didn't bounce while walking around inside. leveler pads; https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00015-Lynx-Levelers-Pack/dp/B0028PJ10K/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1524598098&sr=1-1&keywords=lynx+levelers We had a 31' C and it was equipped with this model on the front and rear that appears to have been discontinued https://www.amazon.com/BAL-26151C-Front-Class-Leveler/dp/B002P2RVGM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 Latest BAL KIT for a Class C http://norcoind.com/bal/products/consumer/leveling_products/LevelingSys(SJ-1&2).pdf When on blocks make certain you have both rear wheels carrying the weight, not just the outer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dp26 Report post Posted April 24, 2018 Most sites are not level (drainage). A c will tend to be nose down, so even on a level-ish site, you may need an inch or so of blocking under the front. I use a leveling app to tell me how much to adjust each corner. I use the stabil-lite system to cut down the wiggles. I factor our preferences (most will want one corner or end slightly low, for drainage, doors to not swing open) and to account for a small change of opening a slide as well as the stabilizers, into the level app results. For an overnight, I do not use blocks at all, and park in the site as best I can. No matter what physics say, my wife is more accurate and must be obeyed... which I factor in as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted April 24, 2018 17 minutes ago, dp26 said: No matter what physics say, my wife is more accurate and must be obeyed... which I factor in as well. Sooooo, does that mean she thinks you are "a half a bubble out of plumb"? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted April 24, 2018 1 hour ago, wolfe10 said: Sooooo, does that mean she thinks you are "a half a bubble out of plumb"? DP26 I think I married her sister Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dp26 Report post Posted April 24, 2018 It means there is no tool in the world which can prove we are level when she says we are not, and I am veteran enough not to waste time arguin'. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted April 25, 2018 29 minutes ago, dp26 said: It means there is no tool in the world which can prove we are level when she says we are not, and I am veteran enough not to waste time arguin'. Unlevel related... When she says we are not I cook breakfast the next morning, when the eggs slide to the side of the pan I make sure she's not watching . She get up to look I jump in with ahhh you helping, she sits every time . moral of the story.. being level is healthy for your refrigerator, helps you properly evacuate your tanks and most importantly helps save marriages. So Doug pick up some of the block kits, Lynx has chocks also the interlock with their levelers, they work great when you are blind backing so you don't roll off the end of the leveler pads. Some sites are very off, which has always frustrated me. I have sites where my hitch was buried in the gravel and my front bumper was at my waist. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted April 25, 2018 1 hour ago, jleamont said: Some sites are very off, which has always frustrated me. I have sites where my hitch was buried in the gravel and my front bumper was at my waist. Been there and don that. I have air leveling, and still carry leveling provisions, yes get some leveling devices. I use one of those red solo cups to check for level, fill it to 1/8 inch from the top, set it in the middle of the coach, when the space is equal all the way around between liquid and top, you are there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted April 25, 2018 1 hour ago, kaypsmith said: Been there and don that. I have air leveling, and still carry leveling provisions, yes get some leveling devices. I use one of those red solo cups to check for level, fill it to 1/8 inch from the top, set it in the middle of the coach, when the space is equal all the way around between liquid and top, you are there. I have much better uses for red solo cups. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ianbullock Report post Posted April 25, 2018 32 minutes ago, WILDEBILL308 said: I have much better uses for red solo cups. Bill Me too! I also heard that they have this new thing called a "level" that works even better! 😁 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayne77590 Report post Posted April 25, 2018 I am master of my motorhome, whatever my wife says shall be done! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted April 25, 2018 I used the bathroom door to level. When I think it is level the DW will open the bathroom door and if it doesn't swing one way or the other it is level. Air only no jacks. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted April 25, 2018 block the wheels Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted April 25, 2018 8 hours ago, WILDEBILL308 said: I have much better uses for red solo cups. Bill , good thing they are reusable! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted April 25, 2018 8 hours ago, WILDEBILL308 said: I have much better uses for red solo cups. I didn't say what to fill the cup with Bill, could use water, beer, wine, or anything else you would like to drink afterwards. Just knowing what is available in a pinch, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dpersch Report post Posted April 25, 2018 Thanks for the help, and laughs. We are excited for our first adventure! Doug Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted April 25, 2018 15 minutes ago, dpersch said: Thanks for the help, and laughs. We are excited for our first adventure! Doug Glad to help! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dp26 Report post Posted April 25, 2018 Funny about the cup. DW likes the tilt towards the back of the stove. Helps keep the mess limited to the stove when food jumps out of the pan. Mates up well with where I like the a.c. condensation to drip Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dpersch Report post Posted April 25, 2018 Hope it's OK if I ask another newbie question here. My Ford chassis , and the Michelin tires have inflation limits of 65psi front, and 80psi rear. I spoke to Michelin dealer yesterday, and he stated always keep inflated to those numbers (65, 80). In doing some research I found I should inflate based on the weight riding on each tire(s). Do I go with the chassis max, or go to to a weigh station (fully loaded), and inflate based on the chart? Thanks Doug Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted April 25, 2018 Doug, Minor correction to "research" recommendation: Each tire on an axle is inflated to the same PSI BASED ON THE HEAVIER WHEEL POSITION ON THAT AXLE. Agree, it is a good idea to weight and then make the decision based on how "over-inflated" the 65/80 is. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dp26 Report post Posted April 25, 2018 By weight! Michelin has a weight chart. Add 10% to account for side to side variance. (Axle weight / 2 plus 10%, plus 10% to the chart pressure.) Or, get a real 4 corner weight, and use the beaver side of the axle plus 10%. The lower the front is, safely, the better it will ride and track. Personally, mine is 55/65, including 10% safety factor. For the expert, look for Roger Marble, aka tireman9. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aufgeblassen Report post Posted November 19, 2018 😎😎😎 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richard5933 Report post Posted November 19, 2018 We are 35' long and have no leveling system. We do carry stacking blocks, but to date have not used them. Of course, it does take some doing at times to park level, whether it be carefully selecting a site or parking on the site just right, but we've been pretty good at being comfortable nearly every night. At a few boondocking parking lots there have been issues. In those cases we park so the out-of-level is front to back and not side to side. Helps keep up from rolling out of bed. A properly sized wheel chock should be about 1/4 the height of the tire. Ours is 10" tall. We carry one with us, although on a level site we don't use it since we're not jacking up the coach. We carry ours in case we have to park on an incline, in case of mechanical failure, in case of flat requiring jacking to change a tire, and because there are a few maintenance maneuvers which require releasing the parking brake. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites