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HeatherRourke

Old but like new tires

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The thermocouple is the crooked thingamabob that sits in the flame. The gas jet is sometimes called an orifice and most likely will have a new one with the new burner tube, at least I hope so.

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Both the thermocouple and new burner and orifice should be in tomorrow evening.     I’ll give and update once I install the new ones. Hoping it warms up again.. it’s snowing at the moment here.

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I replaced both parts with the ones that came in today.  The fridge is doing the same thing. I hooked the new parts up and it is continuing to click after it is lit until it shuts down and goes into the same error mode.  

I turned it off and on 6 times trying it.

88F34F70-31B2-4991-BD71-6E8F4C9DA36E.jpeg

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Heather,

Call around to RV dealers and find one who can test the refrigerator PC board.

 

The flame is now the way is should be (much higher flame/more BTU's than with the old burner tube).

 

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If it is the board, isn't there a company making an 'improved' version of the control board for these older fridges?

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The gas valve is likely not recognizing the flame is present; usually the cause is a faulty flame sensor or corroded contacts where it attaches to the gas valve. It only operates on  3-4 millivolts, so any corrosion on the contacts can be enough resistance to prevent the tiny amount of electricity from transferring to the gas valve and circuit/control board

If  that fails, then it is time to spend money-sigh, a new flame sensor is rather inexpensive though, if the control board is tests good. The control board can also be tested but that is above my pay-grade.  This article explains how to replace a control board, if yours does not pass testing.

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The closest place I found is a camping world couple hours away. They said the could test it.  They did say this is their busy time and are booking out to June.  So it is going to be a little while before its Checked by them if I cannot find someone else to do it beforehand. 

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Sounds like it's getting to the point where you have to weigh the cost of having the board tested against the cost of just replacing it and hoping that fixes it. Of course, first you'd want to run through all the other troubleshooting steps like RayIN mentioned about making sure all connections are clean and tight.

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I tried making sure everything was clean and connected securely when I was installing the new pieces.  I did not think to ask what the cost would be to test it. I will call them toMorrow and find out the cost. I would like to try and ensure it is the correct part before getting a new one.  But probably not if checking it is going to cost the same as just getting a new one. 

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Update!!

 

6 brand new tire, new sumo springs on the fronts and rears. Although when they went to put them on whatever the sway bar attaches to on the rear to the frame needed to be replaced as well.   Drives so much better. 

 

It was my first RV I have ever been in I didn’t know it was not supposed to rock or sway as much as it did. But now when a semi passes me on the highway the rig no longer sways.👍 and it doesn’t feel all over the road so that’s awesome. 

As for the fridge, I pretty much maxed out my credit card on the tires and stuff so I bit the bullet and ordered a pores/circuit board online.  They had one for an open package deal someone returned for $90. With free return if it doesn’t work so I took a chance on that one. Because I’m pretty much broke and am hoping for the best.  Read up the wiring diagram for NorCold.  Unhooked the. Old one hooked up the new one and so far *nock on wood...  runs perfectly on the LP now. Yeay!!! I’m so excited.  Saved some money and did it myself.😁 

 

thank you everyone for all of your help input and inspiration! 

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Congratulations. Feels great to have a couple of success stories under your belt. I'm sure that the longer you own the rig you'll have many more projects in the success column like this.

What tires did you end up with?

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On 6/12/2019 at 5:40 PM, richard5933 said:

Congratulations. Feels great to have a couple of success stories under your belt. I'm sure that the longer you own the rig you'll have many more projects in the success column like this.

What tires did you end up with?

Thanks.  It feels great.  

 

I ended up going with the BFG’s.  There not top of the line,  but they said they are still good and reliable tires and should last me years. 

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I just had 8 put on mine.  BFG is by Michelin, cost less because your not paying for advertising, but just as good. :P

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In researching new tires, I was informed by a local national chain that 295/80R22.5s are on the way out and the Michelin dealer told me the same thing, and he has none available now.  The options are to use either 315s or 295/75s.  Also, to go from 295s to 315s would take new rims, and a question as to whether the 315s on the duallies would have enough clearance between the tires.  No problems going from 295/80 to 295/75.

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Some 315s are only approved on 9" rims or on specific widths only. Others are approved for narrower rims like our 8.25" rims, but this lowers the max inflation/weight limit on the tires. You've got to check each tire being considered to see if it's approved on a rim narrower than the book's listing, and if so how it changes the weight limits. Same goes for rear dual spacing - it's necessary to research requirements for the specific tire and compare against the wheels currently on the coach.

All that said, I still see tires listed online for 295/80R22.5 size. They may be discontinued in one line and then appear in another. When I was investigating 12R22.5 tires the dealer I went to told me that they were being discontinued. Talking further, he meant that the current production/model was being discontinued and that another was be developed as a replacement.

It's still possible to get tires in the sizes used on a Model T. Highly unlikely that this size would totally disappear suddenly. Perhaps get more difficult to find, but I wouldn't panic yet. If it does get more difficult to find, probably good motivation to carry a spare in case a replacement is needed in a hurry.

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You also have to be cautious of the load/weight rating.

Here is what I mean, this happened to me;

 

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2 hours ago, jleamont said:

You also have to be cautious of the load/weight rating.

Here is what I mean, this happened to me;

 

Yup - like I mentioned above. The 315s we have on our coach are recommended to be installed on 9" wheels. We only have 8.25" wheels, and the result is that the weight limit on our tires is now reduced. The Firestone data book shows that when used on 8.25" rims instead of 9", the upper pressure is 120 psi instead of 130 psi. The result is that the upper weight limit is reduced from what would have been possible at 130 psi to what's possible with 120 psi. Always important to read the fine print in the Tire Data Book.

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On 4/25/2019 at 9:37 AM, HeatherRourke said:

I purchased a used 1999 class A. Last year.   Other than being dated it was in great condition with only 60k miles on it.  

A family member stated I need to purchase new tires, but they look excellent. Goodyear’s with Deep tread and There’s no sign of cracking or dry rot at all.  The make date is 2108. 

 

Should i get a new set now, or is it safe to wait? 

 

I dont want a blowout, but they seem in excellent condition. The replacements are quite pricy,  so if I can safely hold off  I would rather put the money on a couple other things that need updating. Like the fridge that won’t run on the LP and only runs when plugged in.🤔

 

3

With deep tread you should be able to get a good trade in price on those tires. There are many local applications that chew up tires in local driving that could use these tires.

But the bottom line for over the highway use puts a 10 year max life for RV use.

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