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Tools Needed for Full-Timing

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RYOBI - everything, I have a pretty complete set of the Ryobi battery tools and I think the flashlights - I have two: one in front and one in back are probably the most used tools I have. But when you need to do a little project a circular saw can really be handy and the battery gives you a freedom that the wired version miss. I have two tool boxes,in the slide out tray, height determined by the height of the opening. You never have too many tools - you may never use them all, but when you're stuck and need a tool not having it is a disaster. The one you carried and never used just took up a little space in the tool box.

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I carry enough including a jack and torque wrench to pull a 22.5 wheel off but I do not have a spare tire :blink:

I also carry this little Craftsman tool chest, a set of all different types of pliers and screwdrivers in their own plastic boxes, rescue tape, electrical tape, crimp tool, wire stripper and crimp connectors and a DVOM.

41roiqzRwLL._SX355_.jpg

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Some would say I have too many tools. The DW isn't helping as I got the big bag of Ryobi cordless tools for Christmas.:P 

Really, is having 3 reciprocating saws to many? 

Bill 

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24 minutes ago, WILDEBILL308 said:

Some would say I have to many tools. The DW isn't helping as I got the big bag of Ryobi cordless tools for Christmas.:P Really is having 3 reciprocating saws to many? 

Bill 

No, while ones charging you still have two more = more production :lol:.

As my DW says "I thought you would be done by now, what's taking so long?" :angry:

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Well this Topic should prove to be very interesting. I am not poking at any one here but think about removing a wheel torqued to 450 lbs. I certainly can not do it without a group of tools specific to this task. A torque wrench will not cut it for removal or replacement as the handle is far to short. Certainly if it is a front wheel, easier but if a rear wheel, much more difficult.

Here is a pretty relevant solution. Since leverage is a necessary requirement, a  4 X 4 block of wood measured ahead of time and and an extension for a breaker bar of 3/4 inch size to fit your BUD socket and the depth of the rear wheel are must have items. The last necessary item is a pipe at least 4 feet long minimum. Now the breaker bar is not to be of the 1/2 inch variety with a pivot on the end purchased at Harbor Freight, Lowes or HD. They will not make the muster and WILL break. Buy a breaker bar where the socket fixture slides on a solid 3/4 inch or inch bar, this in turn allows enough handle to place in the acquired 4 or 5 foot 2 inch diameter pipe. This bar is not expensive.

When the BUD socket is placed on the lug nut it can fall off the nut very easily--even more so on the rear wheel. None of us like having divots in our aluminum wheels. Use the 4 X 4 as a support for the extension-- close to the end where you have placed the breaker bar. This works pretty well on the farm. However, better yet, buy a torque multiplier in place of the breaker bar and pipe. It is small and easily stored, and can be used with that shiny torque wrench with no additional leverage. The multiplier needs to be one that multiplies by 4 at a minimum any thing greater is pure fluff and makes the job very easy.

The last item for this project is a 3 foot handled pry bar for moving the wheel from it's working position and returning it to same. An additional aid would be an 18 inch piece of 1 X 4

After reading the whole thread Herman actually has one of the most unique proto type tools he discussed in a previous series of posts. It is the very special "Recuperating Saw" Apparently quite the unit, still in preliminary development...

How's it coming Herman?

 

 

Bill

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With so many posts that are so good, I have to add, the most valuable one for me, is my DW, she's the only one that knows where she last moved that item that I need to....

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Bill, my wheels torque at 800 ft/lbs., last time I tried to remove front wheel with pull handle (Snap On) 3/4 with 10 foot cheater, the 3/4 end on the Snap On, Snapped Off, so I feel your pain. I now carry a 1200 ft/lb 1 inch air ratchet, and have had to loan it to the RV repair guy to change my tire.

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4 minutes ago, kaypsmith said:

With so many posts that are so good, I have to add, the most valuable one for me, my DW, she's the only one that knows where she last moved that item that I need to.

Kay, :lol: I can relate..

Bill, this is the torque wrench I have (link below) plus a 3/4" Snap-On ratchet the ratchet with two different length handles (interchangeable handle ratchet head), the longest is 5' long 33mm socket (no Bud wheels) and an extension to reach in. I did a practice run in the driveway with the combination, it wasn't fun but it worked. My jack is a 20 ton bottle jack with an screw top adjustable ram. I figured I can throw some weight into it, I have enough excess do so :lol:

https://store.snapon.com/US-Torque-Instruments-ft-lb--Torque-Wrench-Adj-Click-Type-U-S-Fixed-Ratchet-120-600-ft-lb-3-4-drive-P640969.aspx

Ratchet head

https://store.snapon.com/Ratchet-Heads-Sealed-chrome-3-4-quot--5-15-16-L-x-1-1-4-D-x-2-1-2-W-Sealed-Head-Ratchet-P636860.aspx

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Good point, must concur. Yes many good posts here. 800 lbs better get a bigger multiplier than I need for my coach...holy Cow had no idea. I'm drivin a dinosaur...

There you are it all depends on size...

Nice Kay, I did not know they made such  an animal, still the points apply. That wrench was a pricy piece I'm sure. I Know full well what Snap On sells for as I still have all of it I bought over the years. When I began coaching it was nice to draw on the inventory. 

Bill

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Kay, WOW. you can keep those Bud wheels :lol:

Bill, I also carry an assortment of prybars, forgot to mention that. I considered mounting an air compressor under the coach that runs off of 120vac. Since the compressor on the engine will not support air tools. Some times I go a bit overboard....I know.

Since I owned a mobile truck service until February 2015 this type for work comes normal to me, the tools above (wheel removal) stuff was on my road service truck that I sold. The company that purchased it didn't want some of the tools, since I had duplicates (shop box and truck box) I put an assortment of goodies in the coach. Photo attached of service truck on the right side of the old motorhome.

 

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I think at then end of the day you would want to bring tools that you are comfortable using and only attempt repairs you are comfortable in attempting. i.e. a volt meter if you are not comfortable working around electricity I wouldn't keep one on board, you would be likely to hurt yourself with it. I was told by a mechanic when I started in that business "a person can do a lot of damage with a screwdriver if they do not know how to use it" Wow was he right. Pick up the phone and call someone in to look at it when you are in over your head, some know that and accept it others will learn from the school of hard knocks.

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You aught to see the top of my head based on hard knocks...it is almost healed up again after crawling around under the Panther before writing the check.

 

B

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I probably carry more tools than I need but I have the usual assortment of household tools and a Craftsman mechanics set that is about 1/2 the size that Joe carries.  If I need a tool that I don't have we go hunt it down in the toad.  I also carry my Fluke meter, Gorilla tape and zip ties.

A must for us that no one has mentioned.....is a wine bottle cork screw and a beer bottle opener!

Blake

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57 minutes ago, blakeloke said:

I probably carry more tools than I need but I have the usual assortment of household tools and a Craftsman mechanics set that is about 1/2 the size that Joe carries.  If I need a tool that I don't have we go hunt it down in the toad.  I also carry my Fluke meter, Gorilla tape and zip ties.

A must for us that no one has mentioned.....is a wine bottle cork screw and a beer bottle opener!

Blake

You have the good stuff I am coming by:P 

Bill

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Bill, you are so correct!! A credit card with lots of room and a few tools will get you by!

Blake, forgot about those tools, although I have opened wine and soup cans with untraditional methods before :lol:

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WildBill,

I went to Sears site you posted and subsequently I do not believe it will do the job on our wheels, my dinosaur type at 450, as the Sears tool multiplier is only 1.58 to 1. I only weigh 170 pounds and don't believe I could pull a (normal) torque wrench to 200 much less what that would require to get 450 and Kay's at 800 would be a pipe dream...no pun intended.  

 

Bill

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I have always used a 3/4" breaker bar and 6' thick wall iron pipe that fits over the breaker bar.

180 pounds dead weight (no muscle) on the end of the 6' bar generates over 1,000 lb-ft of torque. You do need boards or bricks as fulcrum for the rear wheels.

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Back to the OP's question...if we were to go full time right now, I would not add any tools to those already on board.  However, if it has north of 450 ft/lbs of torque...that's why I pay Good Sam.  My on board tools are pretty complete...half inch drive set, 3/8" drive set, along with open end wrenches...but anything ''serious'' goes to GS.

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5 hours ago, rsbilledwards said:

WildBill,

I went to Sears site you posted and subsequently I do not believe it will do the job on our wheels, my dinosaur type at 450, as the Sears tool multiplier is only 1.58 to 1. I only weigh 170 pounds and don't believe I could pull a (normal) torque wrench to 200 much less what that would require to get 450 and Kay's at 800 would be a pipe dream...no pun intended.  

 

Bill

I think it is a 58 to 1 ratio. yes this is a little lower I have seen 75 to 1 before.

Bill

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It looks like everyone is thinking big tools.  I do agree with those who are carrying a credit card.  No matter what tools you have on board you are going to need the credit card for some jobs. I have found small tools very useful for repairing indoor items.  A short handled screw driver.  I've even used a 1/4 inch drive (swivel, not ratchet) to a socket to a screw driver bit to get to some tight spots.  A variety of small wrenches are always useful and I carry a selection of mini screw drivers that come in handy.  I have a 90 degree screw driver with Phillips heads on both ends that is useful for springing the drawer and cabinet latches in our motor home.  The spring closure will occasionally snap shut if the drawer or door isn't closed firmly leaving the latch closed with no easy way to open it.  The 90 degree screw driver slips under the latch and lifts it open with just a tug.  I have a 90 degree attachment for my power drill for drilling in tight spots.  When you get into cabinets and tight spaces, nothing works but a small tool. 

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I have found a way to stop those snap latches from breaking the hook end. The slot for the screw is too small for the catch and slot expands and will snap after awhile. I have removed each screw and put a small flat washer on the screw. Haven't had one break since.

Just a tidbit I thought folks might like.

Herman  

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I bought one of those Sears/Aosom/Amazon torque multipliers,  Haven't had an occasion to use it yet, but loaned it to a friend who used it on some 22.5" wheels and he said it worked great.  As stated above, the ratio is 58 to 1.  My only complaint is the plastic box it comes in.  It is a total piece of junk.  It is really thin plastic and this is a heavy tool.  The box arrived broken in several places and continues to break just sitting there.  I complained (via Amazon) and Aosom contacted me and offered a new box or a $25 refund.  Since the new box would be the same as the one I had, I took the $25 and didn't look back.

 

Gene M

04 Monaco Knight

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Similar question to what is frequently asked on woodworking forums: "I'm starting my shop and am wondering how many clamps I will need?" The answer: "One more than you own".

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Looks like you have received plenty of really good advice.  Basic tools, easy-to-replace spare parts, i.e., filters, bulbs, and hoses, etc., I would add a couple of different sized hose clamps.  Vice grips too.  Also...did anyone say DUCT TAPE??  You will learn - as most all of us did - by experience.  We've been RVing for 20 years+, taking extended (2-month) trips for 7 years, and now full time.  I am still adding to my tool kit!  I have had to fix things on the fly that I never thought I'd have the skill to do, but you will find almost everybody you meet on the road - whether in an RV park or stranded on the shoulder of the interstate (God forbid) - will be kind and do their damdest to help you.  If no one else mentioned previously, be a stickler for routine maintenance.  Under the heading pay me now or pay me later, it's hard to put a price tag on aggravation, down time, etc.  But I have our coach maintained per OEM chassis schedule specs by experienced people (I own a Cummins diesel, and my drive train is serviced at Cummins dealers or Spartan Chassis only).  I have no idea how much if any it has saved me in actual out-of-pocket repair cost, but it does add greatly to my piece of mind.  Good luck and enjoy the journey!

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