dickandlois

Glenn, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! The tack on my truck with a 8.1 engine gos to 6000 RPM and no red line indication. But they are Red Lined at 4500 to 4800 in many applications. The audio tone or alarm is a warning that you are close to max RPM point. Never had the question come up before, so I will need to look over the shop manuals for the engine and see if there is some information. Need to remember, the 8.1 was built for torque not for high rpm. Did your check engine light come on? If not then you might run a code reader on the OB2 port to see if it set any codes, and post them for the group. I will need to look over the shop manuals to see if there is any reference to Oil pressure and RPM's. What is the odometer reading? Rich.

bbpierce, Thanks for you question, the forum primarily covers enclosed coaches, but many of the systems are the same. You mentioned having a 50 amp service on the 5er. So I'm thinking you have a power monitoring system that reads out you power usage, generally in watts. So when you connect to a 30 amp shore connection the biggest drawback will be that you can only run one AC unit at a time and if you happen to have an electric stove it will not work; well not quite. Should 5er be equipped with dual 100 volt inverters you would have a limited cooking time and monitoring the battery voltage levels become number one priority. 30 amp versus 50 amp limits how many items one can operate at the same time.. Hope that helps a little. Rich.

msham87, You mentioned a 2000 Spartan Chassis. This is a link to the parts list and plumbing for the air brakes on the 2000 EC and WC series chassis for 2000. This might not match perfectly, but should get you into the ballpark. Page 24 PDF file-pictures the Plumbing and a parts list of both the Hydraulic and Air cylinders and there apx. locations. SECTION 3 Page 4 in the manual http://truckroadservice.com/barth_attachments/EC-2242-Maint-Manual.pdf Rich.

msham87, After you read the information, think you will better understand why I as if the brake pedal system was stopping the coach properly. The manual will give you a list of tests to check the entire system. Chassis manual - covers Air brakes on page 5. for most of it. http://hmcmotorhomes.homestead.com/files/2011_Manuals/Spartan_Manuals/Spartan_Manual.pdf You will see that the proper operation of the Park, Emergency and foot operated brakes are all dependent on the adjustment of the wheel brakes and how the braking system(s) are integrated. Still looking for the air line plumbing drawings for the Spartan Chassis. Rich

msham87, This link might help if you have disk brakes. http://www.axletech.com/resources/service_manuals/pdf/MM_9902.pdf From your information your coach has hydraulic brakes with air assist / air cylinder that locks the brakes until you release them. To do this there are two separate cylinders, one for the boost and one for the park brake. They can be one assembly or 2 units located in different areas but connected to the common hydraulic master cylinder. Rich.

Correct. This is a link to some common system layouts that might help. They are generic in nature. https://www.google.com/search?q=Air+over+Hydraulic+parking+brake+system&tbm=isch&imgil=_ULBNQZg_izFOM%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com%252Fimages%253Fq%253Dtbn%253AANd9GcQGCPdnqKbPczyW9q8dr9uR8oii4J_y01sprDrbKnmOvbJ3uo5dcA%253B313%253B199%253BPS0bmaN-7NhoEM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fenginemechanics.tpub.com%25252F14081%25252Fcss%25252F14081_90.htm&source=iu&usg=__G2zGZYwQJG9fSEkqmRj3znQfY-0%3D&sa=X&ei=gtM4U9GLEunR2wW7t4CwDQ&ved=0CCkQ9QEwAA&biw=1366&bih=598#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=cHXxy7kqKusTfM%253A%3BPS0bmaN-7NhoEM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fenginemechanics.tpub.com%252F14081%252Fimg%252F14081_90_3.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fenginemechanics.tpub.com%252F14081%252Fcss%252F14081_90.htm%3B647%3B358 Rich.

msham87, Welcome to the FMCA forum! Air over hydraulic brakes use compressed air to increase braking. Have you noticed any decrease in your road braking? An increase in the fluctuation of the air gauges? The parking brake valve applies air pressure to the booster cylinder, this applies the brakes. Much the same way as when you press the brake pedal. Any air leaks or a compromised / failed booster cylinder would directly result in a loose of park brake holding power. Rich.

ranchodellago, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Did Guaranty RV run a diagnostic on the chassis control systems for any fault codes ? You can use this link to see if the company has any thoughts. You posted CC mentioned a loose connection, did they offer any clue(s) on where to look ? and / or what the buzzer circuit is monitoring ? http://www.countrycoach.com/coach-service-center/ Rich.

Well, yesterday things looked promising weather wise. The coach was setting high and dry for the first time in about 5 months. Time to finish up the air compressor repairs and flush the power steering system. Then De-winterize the coach and start the annual Spring check out and do some other little jobs that I put off last fall. Not yet mother nature said, I'm going to give you one more blast of winter. When you wake up tomorrow morning you will find things very wet from rain, covered with about 1/4in. of ice. Then to make things real interesting I'm going to through in about 8in. of wet snow, you know the kind where a shovel full equals the weight of a 5 gal. pale of water. Now, the snow plow will clear your road about 2 hrs. after you clean out the driveway and the weight of the snow will be 2 / 5 gal. pales full weight wise per shovel and the snow blower will plug up 3 times per pass clearing the pile left by the plow. It will warm up. After all it is Spring in the Northern Hemisphere ! ???? Rich.

Good point Brett! I have a voltage and frequency monitor connected, so checking the voltage and frequency comes as intuitive as walking to me. So I tend to go into equipment diagnostic mode when I'm posting. Rich.

Chuckconnie, Sounds like the problem is in the area of the compressor motor. Motor starter block, bad starter cap or something in the motor. kind of a circuit that is a little different to trouble shoot if your not familiar with AC compressor circuits. Rich.

Rod, Welcome to the FMCA forum! Could you post what kind of system your coach is equipped with Electric / Hydraulic and the manufacture for the group? How far off does the slide look / measurements. Will the slide retract after in stops going out? When the slide is in does it look like its setting parallel and perpendicular with the coach wall ? Rich.

Walter and Steve, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! This could be an interesting thread to follow ! Rich.

floatndoc, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! I have not used them myself and was hoping one of the members would chime in with some first hand information. They do work well with a stick and brick structure and there is the possibility of some locations where they might pickup some interference. You might see if a dealer would allow you to try one by locating the receiver in the coach and walking around the coach with a camera to see what happens. One would need to replace the batteries on some models or have a way to install and wire in a power supply in the general proximity of the camera(s). There is one area of the country where ALL wireless equipment is forbidden by law. Can cover that issue if you need information. Rich.

Pete, it you can find a 20 amp circuit, the extra 5 amps kind of make life a little better. Rich..

Hugh, the forum does limit the number of pictures. Only option that might work is to remove the one you have posted in your prior posts and see if you can then attach some additional pictures. I have copied the ones you attached to this point, so it will not hurt what I have access to. Got to see if there is an option, like having a technical photo file section created on the forum. I have maxed out my limit also and hate to remove them from the threads. I did create a photo gallery for repairing and alternator problems, but it is difficult to find unless one uses the link on my thread. Looking at the images you have attached, I still do not have a clear one of the buttons, and how they might be attached the the board that needs to be moved to replace the defective fuse. From what you have attached it looks like there are board edge connectors that pass through one board and are soldered into a board directly under one or two other boards. Thinks are never simple at times. 40 plus years of building, assembling, disassembling and repairing items has been a challenge for sure !! We might have to try Skype, if mine will work and you have a movable camera. Got to be a way !!! Rich.

Pete, The points and issues that You and Brett both raised are all valid. When I posted, I was doing a little fishing to get some information on what was available regarding circuits that would be already wired into the main panel box. To get a base line for the fee the electrician mentioned. You mention that you are about 12 ft. from the main power panel. Could you and you son run some flexible wire conduit between the main or sub panel that might be in the garage area to where a 30 amp. circuit one 120 volt 30 amp circuit, the neutral and a ground going to a disconnect Switch as one possibility. The second circuit thought being a 240 volt circuit in the garage( used to power an air compressor). The circuit breaker size is often limited to 20 amps, for each side. both L1 and L2 could be used with the proper sized Neutral and Ground wires run through the same type of conduit to the same point = 40 amps 12 ft. of 8 Gauge wire times four, the proper 4 x 4 Box, socket for a 50 or 30 amp circuit, conduit, hardware and circuit brakes should come to around 150 to 175 dollars. A trip to Lowe's with a list of materials might save you some money. Leave the main connections for an electrician Think that the electrician would require 2,max. 3 hrs to make all the connections. Should be less then 450.00 Just some items to consider and see it it falls in to your budget. Rich.

Clay, Good catch! micro switch not a good choice of words. Resetting the current limiter circuit better choice, so I have to go back and do a little editing. In my humble opinion a lot of motors are replaced when just the motor - gear drive assembly needs to be cycled. To rest the the control circuit, and yes the board does sense the current to keep the drive from running when the step strikes an object. The one thing I have never totally understood is why the controller does stop the motor from operating, when all one needs to do is cycle the motor, that is in no way connected to the controller. Other then a load on the current sensor circuit. Happened to me 3 times now and always in the up position and one when my leg was in the way very to the step being fully extended. The current sensor will stop the steps from operating if they do not move free enough to keep the current level with in the correct perimeters. Rich.

Pete, Used that setup for a long time until finally setting up a 30 amp service. Used a 20 amp circuit breaker and kept the extension as short as possible. That allowed us to keep the batteries charged, The Charger / inverter draws approx 8 to 10 amps when first connected, then drops to about 5 amps when the batteries reach the float voltage. Allowing for that, you would have about 15 amps of head room for other items. By using a little math to figure the load you might have at any given time, should get you close to how many items and what items could be on at any give moment. For higher loads you might be able to run the generator for shot periods of time, to cover higher demand. The thing we used the most was the AC and could power one at a time to keep things comfortable. Something to consider, do you have a Electric dryer or use some 220 volt equipment in the garage that would give you a circuit to tap into if needed? Rich.

Regarding this issue, I have been exchanging PM information with the OP and it looks like the problem is a mechanical problem. The step assembly needs to be able to move freely so a switch / current limiter circuit does not impede the complete cycle. The issue has happened to me and the only way that I have found to reset the current limeter is to disconnect the power connection to the motor, using a 12 volt supply(battery charger) power the motor directly and run it out all the way, then reverse the connections. rum the steps all the way in(up position) then reconnect the motor to the control circuit. This process has saved some money and extended to life of the drive system. The problem generally happens when the steps are up, not as common when the steps are down.. Rich.

happybour, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! When you mention blurry picture, do you mean out of focus or did some dirt get on the lens and / or on the weather housing window? Rich.

The little push switches are soldered to the circuit board. They often have a soft pressure pad mounted to the panel to keep dirt and water from getting to the switch. Thinking there is no real mechanical connection between the two. Just the travel of the outside part makes contact with the switch when pressed. It will be interesting to look at a picture of how they are set up. Rich.

Hugh, It should come loose / removed by removing the Phillips hear screws that go through the board next to the fuse. Just loosen them and see if the board moves. Looks like there are some small push switches, on the right side of the board ( last picture) They should come away from the panel; as you tip the board up to remove the fuse. NOTE ! the board could have electrostatic sensitive parts, so you might want to have a grounding strap system. They are available at Radio Shack and other electronic suppliers. Fuse looks like a standard 3/4in. by 1/4in fuse. With the board raised up out of the way, with a piece of cardboard between it and where it might contact other areas of the unit. you should be able pop it out. Pop off a reply if you have any questions or if you think I'm missing something. Rich

Hugh, When you want to attach pictures, open the More reply potion feature. At the bottom left there is a attach feature, open it and attach the pictures from you file(s) of pictures. Note, if you can reduce the picture size (Using paint or some other program to reduce the picture from say 6meg. down to say 500k ) you use less of your allotted amount and the members can still get a look at your item. One over all picture of the item and then picture(s) of the area(s) of interest helps save space and still allows for images to be viewed with better detail. If you need to post additional pictures, we can exchange personal emails to pass info. back and forth. Hope that helps. Rich.

Manholt, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! This is a link to a PDF file. Does the information cover your system? Let me know and then I will be looking at the same information. Then we might be able to narrow down the problem. Do you happen to have a 12 volt battery charger handy? http://support.powergearus.com/techdocs/875.pdf Rich.