dickandlois

Shell925, With the information you supplied, I would check the start switch inside the coach. The external and internal ones are in parallel and there is very little else in the circuit. I will look and see if by chance I have the wiring information on your coach. There are differences in the wiring, but in this case most generator starting circuits are wired the same. Now, how they route the wires, that is a totally different story !! One question, Can you stop the generator from inside the coach? Rich.

Dave, Sounds like it is now working. With the number flashing 6 and 7, are you reading the temperature setting numbers? the fault codes generally show up in the very right hand display and read out low or high AC line voltage(s) out of operating parameters plus others. Like LP issues. Rich.

Hi Ken, Welcome to FMCA! The first thing to check are the circuit brakes on the generator. Turn them off and back on. Restart the generator and see if things work. should the generator quit or trip the breakers, check all the connections and grounds between the generator and the J box connections where the generator connects to the coach 110 volt circuit(s). If you are not familiar working with AC power circuits ask for help. Always disconnect from shore power, stop the generator and turn off the inverter if you coach is equipped with one. Could you post the make and model of your inverter / charger and of the Generator for the forum. Rich.

J79Engine, Hey welcome to FMCA, I would take a look at the wheel sensors at the point they are mounted into the hubs. Any rust in that location, will lift the pickup coil(s) just ever so slightly away from the pulse ring in the bearing Assembly and at low wheel RPM's of the wheels that reduces the pulse amplitude enough to activate the system. Now, the other item that can set them off is if the connections get wet or oxidized. Most likely a dealer will want to sell you new parts and in most cases that is not necessary. Got to ask if your ABS pump energizes when you slow down? Keep us in the loop as there is a fix for the problem if indeed it is the wheel rotation sensors. Rich. Note, it is not a good idea to ignore the ABS, it is a real issue to stop a coach if the pulsing pump starts to run because the system thinks the wheels are sliding !!!!!!

Hi Dave, Welcome to FMCA ! You are on the correct thread regarding your issue. The threads get long with questions and answers. I think we over look some of the posts as many of the questions have been covered at some point. Not the best thing to do but it happens. Have you cleaned the Gas burner per the owners manual / have you tried to clean the contacts on the control boards with a CLEAN pencil eraser? Many of the intermittent problems are due to oxidation and dirt in the wrong place. Lets see if we can find your problem area(s). Rich.

Rick, Welcome to FMCA. There should be velocity valves in each of the hydraulic lines, located at the main manifold. They should restrict the flow so the jacks retract slower. Link to a bulletin that might be helpful http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml44725.pdf This is a link to the repair manual http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml13514.pdf Rich.

sdlmrk, Welcome to FMCA,Do you know how hot the cooling system got after the fan foaled ? The temperature required to cause the failure the mechanic mentioned should be much higher then an engine would reach and still funtion. The one item that come to mind is that when the fan failed the cooling temperature was high enough to cause steam to form in the system, leaving behind an air pocket at could be causing a water pump cavitation. When your engine over heats do you get hot air out of the heater? Rich

Bowtorc, Welcome to FMCA ! Could you post the year, model number of you generator and if its Gas or LP. What is the oil level in your generator? To much or to little will cause a shutdown. You did not mention if you unit set any fault codes. Rich.

Huffypuff, They might work on some of the systems to remove the wiper arms, but not all the arms are held in place with a nut and washer. Some of the arms are held on by a spring clip on the bottom side that locks them on and there is no stud protruding through the base of the arm. Rich.

There is a tool just for removing the wiper arms from the shaft that works very well. It come in real handy removing the arms held on with a spring clip. The one I have is made by KD Tools, think # 2039. Just looked it up and that is it. Rich.

Do you still have the OEM antenna ? The Chassis acts as a ground plane, they do not make a good antenna, but if you have the installation manual and a nonconducting tuning stick; you can try to tune the coupling capacitor at the input and see if that helps. Fractions of a turn make a big difference between max and min. capacitance. One turn 360 deg. equals the full range. Work carefully because the cap could be set at the 180 degree point, so you might have only 90 degrees clockwise from the starting point and 90 degrees counterclockwise !!! You might want to try tuning the ORM antenna to the new radio, it makes a big difference in most cases. Keep me posted. May need some additional information on your coach and see if I can come up with a workable option. Rich.

Chris, this is a link to the T handle shifter used on the mechanical shifting linkage of there transmissions. http://www.utxchange.com/pdfs/Felsted/THandle_and_Push_Button_Shifters.pdf This might help get you started in the right direction. Rich. Note! Chris with 1200HP, What is the Torque output? You will need to find the maximum input torque the transmission will take.

Casuall, Welcome to FMCA ! Think you kind of put everything in a nut shell. With all the products on the market, maintenance in my opinion is the primary ingredient regarding performance and longevity. Putting off or trying to extend the maintenance intervals, that change to some degree depending on conditions can wind up costing more long term. I have used some of the products you listed, to squeeze out a little more time / miles out of a vehicle. Knowing that at some point major items will need to be replaced or rebuilt. Rich.

Never got my hands on the controls of a DC3! That would have been fun!! To get through college, I worked building Private Aircraft and over the years and the background I did get to hold the controls of a few. The only thing that I have missed was a chance to get my license. All I had to do was buy the fuel and our test pilots and instructors would have been glad to give me the lessons. Most likely the second best deal in town, but paying for collage trumped that. The wife is a good sport and always wondered why I would just pack up my things and fly off with my father and brother to desolate areas. then the opportunity came for her and my mother to go with dad and I to Labrador. The Loons, Geese, eagles, caribou, wolves and unspoiled nature grabbed her heart. That lead to our first trip to Alaska with the kids in tow. The best summer ever. After the kids where grown my DW said that she would not stand in the way of me learning to fly. Turned down the chance for a second time. She had never traveled before we where married and I just want to take her to places that many just dream of. Hay, one only goes around once. Still paying some college bills and that lowers the fun funds. Would never trade the decision made. Oh! That reminds me of one of those special items that fall in ones lap. On one fishing trip to West Yellowstone. I and some fishing friends where the last passengers on a 737 that would land and stay the night at there airport, when the pilot walked back and asked if we had seen the park from the air, with a resounding No from all passengers aboard: We got a private circle flight around the park and later, dinner together with the flight crew. Rich.

Jdesiderato, Welcome to FMCA ! Also. Could you post the year of your coach for the group. When you notice the heat do you have the AC unit(s) running? Brett mentioned the need to keep the connections clean to reduce resistance. When the wires it the plug are flexed a number of times the strands of wire can be broken over time and with fewer strands to carry the current the remaining strands need to carry more current and that also causes heat. The condition of the cable and all the connections reduces resistance and in turn lowers the heat produced. Rich.

The model you have will have a fuse / relay box located on the passenger side, generally just behind the rear axle. Look in the first pod behind the axle. There is often a panel covering it, not right out in plane sight. It contains fuses and relays that power the 7 pin socket. Left, Right turn signal, marker light power and brake lights are common. They can very from year to year. Gray cover has to be removed to see the fuses and relays that is installed by the chassis manufacture, but the coach builder moves them around depending on the coach model. There is a good chance that you have no documentation with the paperwork on the coach. One can call Spartan to get the location if all else fails. Hope this puts you into the correct general area. Rich.

phishphair, Welcome to FMCA ! As mentioned in the above post. The Make, Model, Chassis and Year of the coach makes a difference in the way they are wired, even using the same chassis. Post that information for the group when you get time. Rich.

Tom, That is a good story !! You are correct about Hyder, not much there but quiet and nature. Being born into a family of adventurous souls I have been so lucky to have flown in float Planes and old DC3's from Happy Valley, Labrador to the Brooks Range, Alaska. Flying with Sled Dogs, chickens, large LPG tanks and numerous other items tucked under the sets makes for some interesting conversation. Have you ever considered writing all of you stories in a book? Thanks for sharing the tale of the mail with us. !!! Rich.

Chuck, Looking for information regarding the vacuum system mentioned in the first 2 reply's. Ford uses plastic lines for the vacuum system and over time they can deteriorate. Plastic gets brittle over time and can also deform or melt should the temperature get to high. At the front Right of the engine, look for a block with White, Red and black lines connected to it. One of them goes to the Vacuum reservoir from the information I have been able to dig up. Should one of the vacuum lines fail the blower system would go the default Brett mentioned. With the loose of vacuum you should notice a difference in the performance of the engine. If you have access to a code reader, there should be a code set, that indicates loose of vacuum. If you have a check engine light, the loose of proper vacuum could be the cause of the check engine light. Rich.

I use a 110 volt line meter that plugs into any AC outlet. It reads the voltage and frequency alternately, so it works on shore power and when the generator is running I can check the frequency and voltage at a glance. The shore power reading at my 30 amp plug varies from 118 down to 112 volts during hot weather inside the coach. We tend to keep it at one of the kitchen outlets where it stands out and remove it when its in the way. They are sold at a number of locations in there electrical dept. Rich. A little absentminded !? I forgot to mention that at campgrounds it reads as low as 109, below that it alarms low voltage and has had readings of 121 volts on the high side.

rbarkleyii, Welcome to FMCA ! This link might help you find some information on HWH systems. http://www.hwhcorp.com/custserv3.html Rich.

Michael, look around and electronics store. Radio Shack or similar outlets. Magnetic reed switch(s) and see if one might work. Needs to be closed when the magnet is present, open when clear of the magnet. A little double sided tape will work wonders! Rich.

Monkeyrun, Take a look at the this thread on the forum. It might help to answer your question. http://community.fmca.com/topic/4277-washer-will-not-complete-cycle/?hl=%2Bwasher+%2Bdryer Rich.

Hi Donna, Welcome to FMCA. Your model year coach was manufactured when the 610 Model Computerized leveling system was in production. The 500 system was in production from 1988 to 1993. Start by checking all the fuses. The 600 system fuses are a little easier to check. Look at the back of the control box, there are 4-10 amp fuses, see if one of them is bad. There are 2 - 5 amp fuses and one 7.5 amp fuse. The 4 - 10 amp fuses are located in the top, left corner of the control box as you look at it from the rear. under the 9 pin connector, Note ! one of the fuses is just to the right of the other 3 and above the 3 wire connector. A blown fuse could indicate a problem in the left rear control valve, or wiring. Should the fuses all be good then one would check for a defective connection or broken wire to the left rear control valve. Should your coach have a 500 series, then the fuse are glass or bladed and located inside the control box / panel and may need to be removed form its mounting to get to the fuses. There was a major change in the way the systems where built between 500 and 600 models. This is a link to the manual for your coach and system information for your model and year. http://www.hwhcorp.com/countrycoach3.html Rich.

Denny, been drilling into the internet for some information. With the problem being more of an intermittent item. You might try this info copied from a web post. I decided to check it out and when I pulled the tranny ECU and disconnected the J1B and J1A plugs I found a slight bit of moisture and some oxidation in J1B (the plug which has the TPS inputs). I cleaned everything up and finished off with Electrical Contact Cleaner and dielectric grease. This is one answer to the same fault code you have. When the control modules do not talk to each other ( A little like me when I do not hear exactly what DW said) things can go south real fast. LOL. It is one of the less expensive things you can do. Just wonder with your helping in disaster areas if you have been in a real wet area recently. Rich.