dickandlois

Hi Geary ! Welcome to FMCA. Well if your getting 9 MPG I think you should just keep smiling as the white lines disappear under the coach. Rich.

Laman, Last part of your post: As for as the original problem of missing power on one leg you mention brushes wearing out, is this something that I can inspect/check on my own or will it require dealer service? The model generator you have should have an induction coupling for AC not the brush system. With only 600 plus hrs on the Generator, I would look for loose connection issue outside the generator. A rattling circuit breaker is not good. So you should get back one side of your 120 volt AC. Look for the J Box that connects the generator output to the feed going to the transfer switch. I'm thinking you have a loose connection on 1 or more of the screw terminals in that Box.. They loosen up at times and can ark or burn off the wire that was or still is connected at that point. Wish I had enough picture attachment space left for a sight you do not want to see under the J Box cover. Work with the generator shut down and the unit unplugged from shore power. The J Box if often located on the firewall above the generator or in the area. Look for a pig-tale from the generator. If the connections are good and tight, then check the connections inside the generator, then look at and check the connections at the transfer switch used to switch from shore power to generator power. Rich.

Hi Laman ! Welcome to FMCA! Could you post the Model number and the number of Hrs. on your generator for the group ? The units built up to around the late1990's used brushes on the pickup of the 110 volt Alternator and they do wear out over time. Could be an issue on the one leg. When you mention resetting the 35 amp circuit breaker. Do you mean the breaker will not stay in the on position or you just do not get a voltage when its reset? There is a small fuse under the circuit breaker panel that protects the DC field circuit and the rectifier circuit for the voltage regulator circuit. Read the post on this link and see if some of the information is close to what you have. http://community.fmca.com/topic/5332-onan-10hdkag-61731x-generator-has-low-voltage/ Rich.

Hi DCDuncan ! Welcome to FMCA ! There are a number of them. Check with NAPA, Auto Zone, Advanced auto parts. Just a few. BioGuard-Diesel-Microbiocide-Additive-16oz/dp Biobor JF - Diesel Fuel Microbicide by Star-Tron 16oz. Power Service-Bio Kleen 16 oz. 5oz. to 100 gal.. 1oz.to 20 gal. Rich.

Hi Gwheel ! Welcome to FMCA ! Sounds like a restriction in the Cooling system other then the thermostat. The hot side of the cooling loop, generally the top radiator hose heats up rapidly once the thermostat opens. The other possibility is a restriction in the overflow system line or a defective radiator cap. This will show up as no change in the level of the overflow tank level from cold start to hot. Have you tried to run the heater fan on high to see if you get constant heat output from the heater ? Does running the heater fan on high extend the time it takes to raise the engine temperature ? If so then the water pump is operating properly. IF Not-Might point to an air pocket in the cooling system causing a blockage of coolant flow or as a cavitation in the water pump. This would also reduce or limit the amount of heat coming from the heater core running on high fan speed. Should the heater work well then. That would lead one to the engine cooling loop, including a restriction in the radiator, possible restriction(s) in the upper or lower radiator hose(s). Hope these thoughts put you on track to finding the problem. Rich.

Dale! This might add some information for you. The first generator listed is the number you posted and might help find a source of parts should you need some, if nothing more then some contact information. Go to this link and then open the link listed. http://www.cumminsonan.com/searchresults?search_text=pusher Rich.

Hi Dale. This is a link to some information on the Alternator style that I think you have. Section 8 covers the alternator section of the generator. http://www.cumminsonan.com/www/pdf/manuals/965-0530.pdf I will see what I can find that covers the disassemble in better detail. I did find this link that might get some information http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/onan-generators/3onan.jpg Rich.

Hi Bob. Sad to read about your encounter. Could you attach a picture or two to your post so we can get a good look at the damaged area from a couple of angles. One could place a tarp over the side, just in case mother nature turns on the big sprinkler !! Rich.

Good Point Big Dog !!!

Hi Kevin, Been thinking about your MPG issue and I think I would run some injector cleaner through the engine. I have used Lucas injector cleaner(5 oz per 25 Gal) myself and add some to the fuel one a year to keep injectors working well. I have always been a little concerned about the injector valves and ethanol drying out the O ring seals. Dirty injectors can have an adverse effect on fuel usage. I was a little slow about mentioning it with the air filter and plug post !!!! Rereading your post and see an idle issue and that it has cleared some recently. The fuel blend is changed in the winter with a reduction in ethanol percentage. Rich.

I believe that both engines are good over all, but these are the numbers I look at when comparing them: Ford Triton V-10= 6.7 L 457 Lbs of torque @ 3250 RPM's GM V-8 / 8.1 L 450 Lbs of torque @ 2800 RPM's With an additional 450 RPM's one gains 7 Lbs of torque . I look at the torque to HP @ a rated RPM's when looking for an engine that will be used to move heavy loads. Rich.

Dives, Welcome to FMCA. Thanks for your feedback and I sure hope that it helps others with a Self Centering System. Let us know how you make out with the repair. Rich.

Bob, I would try to remove the power to the slide circuits, Turn off the coach and chassis power via the disconnect switches and just let it set for a time. then turn on the chassis and coach power. OH, disconnect the shore power feed also! Hope if there is a problem with the slide control that will reset things, you might need to cycle the slide out a little then retract it to get the start interlock to completely reset, hope that is the issue. The engine did try to turn over before the slide(s) where exercised. Rich.

Bob, After charging the batteries, let them set for an hr or two and read the voltage. If it has dropped below 12 volts check the water levels and try to recharge them again. Let them set for a time and see what they read. If the voltage is better try to start the engine again. Think I should have asked if the batteries did charge up. Some times there are relays and the like on the slide out control boards, one needs to remove the power or pull the fuse on the boards to let the circuits reset. Rich.

White Tail, Welcome to FMCA !!! I have a copy of the chassis service manual for your coach, but it is over 900 pages long. So here is a link to the manual in PDF form if you have enough internet bandwidth to download it. The real bummer is they do not separate the Different model chassis. Brake system starts at Page 669. There is an early model and a later model listed as ON / VOY (Carburetor) covered on pages 679 and 680 are drawing covering the different brake plumbing used. I'm not sure what motor you are referring to as no motor is pictured or listed in the manual. http://www.cdr-roc.com/89JD/89-JD-Chassis-manual.pdf#page=62&zoom=auto,0,714 Well, I have to eat my words regarding an electric motor on the John Deere Chassis, Referred to as HYDRO-MAX POWER BRAKE BOOSTER The information on the system starts at page 720 of the manual and covers how the system works. DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION The Hydro-Max power brake system is composed of a hydraulic- powered booster (F), mini-master cylinder ( , reserve system electric pump motor (I), relay (H), electric monitor and a warning system. During system operation, normal flow from the engine driven hydraulic pump passes through the steering gear, enters the inlet port (E) of the booster, flows through the poppet valve and booster then the flow switch © and exits from the retum port (D) and returns to the reservoir then back to the brake Pump. Force applied to the pedal rod by the vehicle operator activates the booster. The resulting pressure in the booster applies a force to the master cylinder. A pressure regulating valve inside the booster limits the maximum internal booster pressure developed during a full application. Fluid flow through the flow switch "opens the reserve motor pump electrical circuit during normal operation. A separate check valve in the motor pump prevents backflow through the motor pump during normal power applications. In the event normal fluid flow from the engine driven hydraulic pump is interrupted, the electric motor pump provides the power for reserve stops. Upon flow intemption, the integral flow switch "closes" energizing a power relay, thereby providing electrical power to the motor pump. During reserve operation, fluid is retained within the booster by an inlet port check valve. The motor pump recirculates fluid within the booster assembly with pressure built on demand via the poppet valve. The number of applications is limited only by the electrical capacity of the vehicle. Manual braking is also available in the event both the power and reserve systems are inoperative. Stopping distances and pedal efforts during a manual brake application are significantly increased. The vehicle should not be driven except for emergency removal from the roadway. SYSTEM CHECKOUT 1. With the engine off, depress the brake pedal. The electric motor pump should run and the warning lamp should be lighted. 2. Start the engine and push the brake pedal several times. The electric motor pump should not run and the warning lamp should not be lighted. 3. Stop the engine, check the reservoir and add fluid as needed. Regarding the broken belt, I would check the check valves that are mentioned to make sure they are not installed backwards putting undue pressure on the hydraulic system. White Tail, I sent you a private message with a picture of a brake set up that I think you are talking about. Rich.

Jlacaeyse, Welcome to FMCA ! Sounds like a possible transfer switch or fuse issue. With the 12 volt lights working when on shore power means the charger is working. Look for a large fuse between the batteries and the charger 12 volt output feed to the positive coach battery terminal(s). With a meter you should read a voltage at the positive terminals. They will read very low if no charging voltage is present. The house batteries (as well as chassis batteries) should charge when the engine is running, if not then you should find a fuse in a positive 12 volt feed between them and the alternator. Check all the wiring to see if its correct, you might need to find a little help if your not familiar with the circuit. With 12 volts present when the charger is running when on shore power, one would suspect there is a wire routing issue, as you should get 12 volts from both the charger and or the batteries if things are connected properly. I have a feeling that you do not have 110 volts from the inverter output when you are not connected to shore power. Hope this gets you started in the right direction, Rich

Ischirm, One should be able to travel through Canada with long guns with the proper paper work and safety requirements, but things change and I have not transported one in a few years. I have taken a long gun to Alaska because you are not at the top of the food chain in that part of the country. The black bears will stalk you just like the polar bears in Alaska, not like our black bears in the lower 48. You move, you are food. The locations that I have flown into, the outfitters left you with a 30cal. long gun to protect your self with, but just fishing on your own, you are on your own. Regarding hand guns, you would need the proper paper work and would need to ship them between registered gun dealers to get them up there and back the last I knew. Being in Alaska during the summer and around wolves has never been an issue for me. They can find food easier then during the winter. However ! again there is always that what if issue. The big Brown bears, for there size are for the most part less of a threat; but things can change in the blink of an eye and they are really really big along the coastal areas.The best fishing is often only accessible using outfitters. Many wonderful memories to be had, just stay alert at all times. You might want to check on regulations regarding transporting some items back to the lower 48 from Alaska. There are a number of items one can not carry personally through Canada, you need to ship them back by airfreight in some cases. Rich.

Hi Don, welcome to FMCA ! Thanks for your feedback. Rich.

Hi Jay and welcome! The information I have for the 5000 system pictures a oval shaped cap cover, that is held in place with molded hidden clips. To remove the cover one needs to slide a thin round tool between the cap and the cover. You should have 2 tools, look for the small key holes one across from the other. This releases the little plastic locking clips and then slowly work around the edge prying up carefully. Under the cover is a screw that holds the cover housing for the camera assembly. one can remover this cover to get better access to the entire camera assembly. Do not remover anymore of the housing or mounting as it is sealed in place to keep out water. You should be able to clean the lens without removing the cameras from there mounts. This exposes the camera. Clean the lens with a good lens cleaner, like the ones used on eye classes. use a damp lint free cloth. This lens is very small, it looks like a pin hole camera to many!! Working very carefully with very little pressure. To much cleaner can cause water spots behind the lenses that you will not be able to clean !!! The cameras used are generally made by Sony. NOTE: these cameras are powered with less then 12 volts that is supplied from the R 5000 unit. Hope this helps. Rich.

Wounder if any of the members have any feedback regarding this organization. Thanks Rich.

Hi Larry, Been there and have used the Marine Highway and the roads. Putting a coach on a Ferry is costly, but you get to see all the small towns only accessible by water or float plane in many cases. The other is the coach is exposed to a lower chance of stone damage. Cost goes up each year and they go by $$$ per number of feet long. We have spent the entire summer there and driven as many roads as possible in 7 to 8 weeks. Would go back again should things line up for us. Mainly time and commitments. Our first trip was planed over a year ahead so we could line things up with all the kids that we took along, best trip we ever had and well worth all the time invested.. To get the dates we wanted on the ferry we made reservations on January 2nd of that year so we could get all the dates and stops we wanted. A copy of the Mile Post is a must from our travels and information from all the Provinces. We have traveled in all of them except the new one split off of the Northwest Territory a few years back. Not many roads that one could drive on with a larger coach !!!! Rich.

Michael, this is what I have on file, some items may vary; but it should be close. Accelerator peddle section of the circuit has 3 of the 6 wires. Throttle control to ECM. Position connections accelerator portion voltage control, feeding main engine harness. A= Green and Blue wire---Return=ground B= Red and white wires---peddle position voltage=accelerator voltage to engine harness C= Black and red wire---Supply voltage to peddle from engine harness The other 3 wires are from the Idle position switch part of the assembly, Idle Validation switch feed to ECM. Listed as A,B and C A= Red orange---normally open side of the switch. When accelerator is depressed, pin A connects to pin C the common return wire to the engine harness main connector. B= Blue normally closed side of switch.. Accelerator not depressed. C= Black and white wire switch common. Let me know if this helps. I do have more information if you like, but things very some from model to model. Rich.

Hi Don, My first thought would be a contact(s) arcing on the 12 volt relay or solenoid. Depending on the way you coach is wired.Monaco has used both Latching Relays and solenoids often together depending on model and year of the coach. One can disconnect fro m shore power and open the 12 volt battery grounds, then use a nail emery board to clean the contacts and see if that clears the problem. If not, then one needs to look at other possibilities. so start at the simple and inexpensive first. Rich.

Mark, I use Protect All on mine to remove the oxidation. Apply a new coat twice a year and it works for me. The more sun you get then one may need to apply it 3 or even 4 times a year. Rich.

Hi John, Interesting that you do not or did not get the engine power output readings while the cruse was turned on. I do not use the Banks system. Use VMSpc software and get the engine power levels with cruse on or off. Have you questioned Banks in regards to the power level reading difference when cruse is on an off? Rich.