dickandlois

Edited 1-6-13. you mention problems with volt drop and shedding. There is a current loop inside the AC Breaker box that senses current flow in the primary AC feed. this loop sensor tells the power sharing circuits to shed loads down to an acceptable level. The Loop is not in the inverter section of the circuit. There are 2 circuits that are being powered from the Inverters in most cases. One 20 amp for the Microwave and one 15 amp for general appliances. I do not have the wiring information for your model coach, so I'm limited in information.The items listed are rather large loads for the inverter.I do not think that all the items you listed would be powered from an inverter system. We run the Generator in the AM for a short time when not on shore power, until we are done with the Microwave,toaster and coffee to start the morning. Our coach does not have heat pumps, and in your case this is also a hefty load until the set temperature is reached, even then asking the inverter to supply power to the heat pump places a continual load on the batteries. One needs to remember that there is a constant load to supply 12 volts to a number of items from the batteries. Even with supplemental solar panels there output is limited due to the low sun angle in the AM limiting there output. A small supplemental wind turbine has limits. Increasing the number of Coach batteries would help,but not completely solve a high load request. You would need to decide if the added weight, space requirements and cost are a good choice or just use up some fuel for a short time is more cost effective. Rich.

Winter storage in what part of the country ? Do you plan on driving it during the winter when the roads are dry and the temperature is low, just to exercise it ? Rich.

Bo, This is a link to another thread on the topic. I listed some options that might help get you started. The size of the replacement units and the openings for the current units are not the same thought. Rich.

Scan Gauge is one and VMSpc from SilverLeaf. Scan Gauge is carried by Camping World and The Silverleaf system is software that you load on your laptop and use an interface adapter and cables to connect to the ECM Connector. The Freightliner Chassis uses a 6 pin connector in most cases, but you might have a 9 pin connection. The connection is generally under the dash, drivers side next the the steering column. Rich.

Gary , The 30 second delay is normal. That gives the generator time to settle down to a good steady line voltage. I get a chatter from the ATS when I have the Inverter running and start the Generator. No problem with it off and switching from shore power to generator or generator back to shore power. I have a BCC (Battery Control Unit) and the circuits that power the ATS relay both shore power and generator power go through that unit. IF I have AC from both, the delay relays will cause the ATS to chatter. but only if ac is present from both. Now, I have to look at the wiring in my coach to see if I might have an issue. All these years its been, remember to power down the Inverter before connecting to shore power. When dad was alive he (we) would install backup power to homes and business. The back up power would come on with loss of line voltage and power down when power was restored. Transfer relays in the power panels disconnected the structures from the power supplier so no back feed was present on the line from the backup source. Rich.

One could bleed them like brake lines, but it is real messy. The same results is accomplished by cycling the jacks full cycle a number of times and much less of a mess. Having the coach elevated so the jacks cycle with no load, full extension. It would be nice if the systems had bleeders at the top of the cylinders. I replaced all the lines on one of my coaches and bleeding them by opening the connections that where located at the top of each cylinder under pressure ( jack down cycle) it did work, but messy. Two lines failed while in Alaska and I was allowed to work in the shop parking area and use some of there pans under the jacks to trap the lost fluid. Real good lines and never had another one fail. Kind of wish I had pulled them and installed the old plastic style. They where custom made, industrial grade material, rated at -70 deg. One of my smaller light bulb moments !!!! Rich.

That could be the problem !! and worth checking out...Most often its the little things that trip us up. Rich.

Bill, This information may fill in some of the gaps in your information. Link. http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/furnaces/MPD%2032046%20E%2011.27.06.pdf Rich.

Mike, The seam areas can be sealed using Dicor it is sticky to work with, but it works best on flat surfaces as it tend to self level and will droop down the side. Gravity is going to win. The sealing tape. Called Eterna Bond, comes in varying widths. Camping World sells patching kits made up of the material, not sure they stock the rolls. I get it from a Commercial building supplier in the area. It is pricy, but it will seal the area and stay where you put it. NOTE ! once its in place it can be almost imposable to remove. It pays to work carefully, cleaning the surface well to start. Should your roof be made of EPDM, cleaning materials with any oil in there mixture can not be used. !!!! Plan on the best way to work on the area--Slide in or out, part way out ?? You might want to use one of the roof cleaners sold at CW to start. Rinsing the surface well and drying. Cut the material to length, lay it along the area you want to apply it, (use a little duct tape to hold it in place)(Make any adjustments or cuts). Then start to remove the adhesive protection material (only on short areas)(it really sticks to anything it touches) then slowly expose the adhesive as you work along. Press down on the tape to make a good seal (A wall paper edge roller works real well for this) If its in the correct spot it will stop the leak, last a long time and look good. Good luck, Rich.

You just know that all the fuel will evaporate or varnish in the tank. Stable in the gas helps, but I think some top oil added to the fuel and run through the engines to get items coated is good. The battery(s) need to be removed and placed on chargers if possible, and some one to check the water levels and condition. Jack stands to support the coach and some pads under the tires. Coat the tires with vegetable oil to protect them, the oil does not react with the rubber like petroleum based oils. Had one person mention lemon oil, never tried that one. Think some peppermint oil around the bays and inside to keep the critters out would be good. The coach will smell like a candy factory when you return, but better then the option. RB you should change the oil and filters and flush the cooling system while your at it. Rich.

From your post, I'm wondering if you have a slow leak in one of the jacks, one of the jack control solenoids or the dump valve that allows the jacks to be retracted. lose of pressure, leak down problem. The only other item I can think of is a loose jack assembly where it connects to the frame. Got to reread the manual information myself an look for any clues. Rich.

Do you have the owners manual for your furnace? If not list the Make an Model number and I will see if I can supply a cope of some information that covers you's. Rich.

This link could be helpful in understanding the leveling system. http://www.lci1.com/...veling%20II.pdf Rich.

Have you noticed any change in the size of the cubes? If they get too big then the water will not drain out of the supply line inside the refrigerator and block the line until is thawed out. Rich.

Jim, Here is a link to the IRV2 sight.. It mentions some possible solutions. http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/flex-steel-6-way-chair-leg-rest-wont-retract-36366.html Rich.

I found this information on your year Chassis. https://www.fleet.fo...iessd_06mhc.pdf The sound you are hearing could be the ABS brake pump running. 4 wheel disk brakes with a drive-line Drum Parking brake. The leveling system is supplied by Damon. Could you post the Leveling System Model number and Make on the thread for us ? The way the Leveling Controls are integrated into the braking system may lead to an answer for the LED flashing issue. Rich.

P.M. Always good to dump you air ride system. It is also easier on the jacks, they do not have to be extended as far and this reduces the chase of damage and as mentioned it sure is easier to get in and out of the coach. This also allows for more weight of the suspension to be on the tires and less on the jacks. At times we have all had to push the limits of where we feel comfortable with the leveling systems. Some are braver then I could ever be !!! Rich.

Thanks for the update Andy. Sounds almost to easy. Glad you have found a way to fix the windows. There is no good reason that I have not had one fog up on me to date. Just not my turn yet. So knowing its doable is good. Dwight P. My friend it looks like you have some competition in the window repair field. Between you and Andy I might be able to fix one. Rich.

This is a link to the Operation Manual for the system if you need one. http://www.lci1.com/OwnersManuals/Leveling/Electronic%20Leveling%20II.pdf Rich.

ISB Engine is one of the good ones regarding the 2004 year of production. Have you had the ECM scanned of fault codes ? That might be stored as the Check Engine light did come on. Unless something outside the norm happened the engine should run for many more miles then you mentioned. This year engine has a High Pressure Rail injector system and was a good improvement over the Bosh VP-44 system. Low fuel pressure from the lift pump can damage the pumps, they need good fuel flow to cool the electronics inside the pumps. Some chassis manufactures installed a third fuel filter in the fuel line ahead of the lift pump and tucked in along the chassis frame rail drivers side close to the rear axle. This one is real hard to see and find. Rich.

Mike ! A reading of 10.9 volts is real close to the level where the system boards will stop working, if I remember correctly. I will need to look into it to get more details. In the mean time try this link. It might lead to a solution or an option. I do not have the OEM board numbers for your unit. http://www.dinosaure.../Nor_boards.htm Rich.

Do you have the operator manual for your system? If not, this is a link to get a PDF file covering its operation, calibration and some wiring information: http://www.lci1.com/...veling%20II.pdf Rich.

It is a pain to check the sight bowl after every fill up and a lot of owners do not check it as frequently as we should, myself included. I do by my fuel from locations that pump large quantities of fuel and stretch out the intervals some between fill ups. We travel in some nasty weather in the Northeast, so getting under the coach in the snow and cold is not relay on my to do list all the time. Must admit that I have had some water in the sight bowl over the last 10 plus years though. Rich.

Gary, Along with the connections at the transfer relay you might want to check all the shore power wiring connections from the shore power cable to the relay connections. There could be a loose or corroded connection anywhere in the wiring. Hot sides, neutral or ground. The fact that the relay locks and does not chatter when the generator is running leads me to think its worth checking. Rich.

This issue turns up no a number of coaches. I have had the same problem with mine. The way I have mine repaired is to have the windshield removed and replaced. (R an R) The cost out of pocket for me has been $100.00 to remove and replace the windshield using the same seal. This is on a coach with a split windshield. The seals can dry out over time and become stiff. Some times the opening is a little over sized and the seals will slowly separate from the fiberglass as the coach flexes. A good glass shop should be able to give you a good idea, on how to fix the opening. Rich.