dickandlois

Travelcade. Do you still have the owners manual? If not I can try to get a copy to you, The manual pictures the hydraulic cylinder quite well and as mentioned with some good information a good shop should be able to rebuild it. The trim block and valve could offer a challenge. The tougher one is the glass sight tube should it get broken. I posted my thoughts regarding the sight tube on this thread. http://community.fmca.com/topic/4726-howard-power-center-steering-system/ Good luck Rich. Edit 2-5-2013--- Owners Manual link: http://janeandjohn.org/docs/Howard%20PCS%20Manual.pdf

DD you are correct, but a number of Freightliner Chassis had the 275 HP an MT 643 up to the start of the 1999 chassis year and the MD 3060 used from then. The MT-643 is 660flb torque at 70,000 lb load and the MD 3060 is rated at around 750flb torque at a load of around 40,000 lbs. Close with out looking up the exact specks. Rich.

Hi Dwayne, Welcome to FMCA. You take care of the coach, they return the favor. There are a number of coaches out there with over 100,000 miles, many over 200,000. That is allot of time sitting in the driver set. Your Cat has around 42K miles, so its almost broke in. Good maintenance like you mentioned. The generator manuals mention replacing the belt around 1000 hrs. The belt drives the water pump. Then there are the normal maintenance items. Tires, alignment, breaks, ride-height, air ride parts an suspension work. The maintenance of the turbo system and lubing the Jake or Engine brake. Rich. PS --Dwayne ! we use lower case when writing a post. Upper case is like yelling.

Hi Andy, Like Brett said. A little like apples and oranges. The 275 Cummins was likely matched to a Allison 4 speed or 5 speed transmission. From your information I'm thinking thinking an MT 643- 4 speed.The big items are weight, body profile and gearing between the two coaches. Also 125 more HP. More ponies equals more oats. More power is not always a good thing, its how all the parts come together. Are you driving them the same ? Was the coach new or a couple years old when you purchased it. Filters, injector pump setup, ECM program, Transmission style and software setup, CAC size, tappet settings, Turbo set up and boost, plus air flow through the engine all come into play. One could go through the system and get a good shop to check things out to see where you could gain some mileage, no single item will get allot of mpg. The other is a complete Re-power. replacing the engine with a Detroit 550 and all its required Radiator and CAC changes plus and Allison 4000 transmission might work real good. A friend had this setup installed in his coach and its on its first run. Getting about 18 mpg and all the power one could ever use on a 45ft. coach / 50,000 lbs or so, but at a price. Note received later this AM, MPG is now 20+. Running the Grapevine at 75 mph. Re-power also requires the use of DEF fluid. Your current set up is Pre. 07 or 2010 EPA. a lot less involved then to meet the new standards. Rich.

Thanks Don, The model you mentioned has an internal relay. I have to check and see if the BCC control board has a circuit working in conjunction with the charger / inverter. Do you have the manual for the BCC unit ? There could be a fuse inside that box that has failed. Could you clarify one more item for me. You mentioned the batteries discharged over night. That kind of leads to the charger side of the inverter not working. Think from your first post that the only way you got the coach batteries to recharge was running the engine-- kind of missed that the first time I read your post. Can you hear a hum coming from the charger while connected to shore power? The inverter is powered through the main breaker panel, so if you do not have a 110 volt input to the 2000 unit then you would not have the 2 --110 volt circuits you mentioned and this would also lead to a issue of charging the coach batteries from the generator or shore power. Rich. To reset the inverter: Press and hold the Power ON/OFF push button for approximately fifteen (15) seconds until the Charging/Inverting Status LED (see Figure 3-5) comes on and flashes rapidly; once the rapid flashing has begun, release the Power ON/OFF push button. The Status LED will go off after the push button is released.

Hi Don, Could you list the model and make of your charge / inverter for the group? The fact that you only get power to the 2--110 volt circuits wired from the inverter only when its running, kind of tells me there is a relay issue. With more information I can look into things a lot better. Rich.

Mike this manual should cover your series steps. http://www.rvtechlibrary.com/exterior/kwikee_owners_manual.pdf Rich.

Neil, like DD mentioned there are mountains everywhere. Look at a map of WY, Get a state map from the State Tourism Dept. and you will see an area called the Great Divide Basin, that is in the middle of the state. So its a big bowel with high sides all the way around. To stay off mountain passes is very difficult, but this is the way I would go to minimize, that look up the grade and the feeling of we are going down there feeling. From Gillette take Rt. 90 to Bozeman Mt.--RT. 191 south to West Yellowstone. Drive around the park and enjoy. With your toad or rental drive down towards Jackson Hole from the South Entrance of the park. This is the most direct route south, but like I mentioned what is up on the rim of the bowl must drop down at some point to get back to Rt. 80 to go East to Cheyenne. Looking again at you state map. The more wiggly the road looks generally means more turns and that equals a greater drop in elevation over a given distance. The Rt. as mentioned has less abrupt changes in elevation over all, but will not eliminate the up and down driving entirely. How or where are you coming from West Coast, East Coast or Midwest on your way the Gillette? Rich.

The picture of the coffee drinkers has one familiar face on the Right side. Looks like a trouble maker to me, but I could be wrong. Have a good winter down there in Southern Texas. Rich.

Tigerpa, John mentioned a air operated system and in your case it looks like a threaded rod turned by an electric motor, that moves the system in and out. Did the post(s) that the arms from the drive rod connect to have a hole for a lock pin or snap ring that may have come out? The torque between the drive arms and the pins could pull them loose if there is something binding, or one of the locking pins fell out and the side torque finely pulled the other side loose, although everything in you picture looks clean. Rich.

John, That is some real good information ! Thanks for sharing it with the membership. This really adds to the value and information of the web page. Thanks again Rich.

The Trace series of Inverters are made by Xantrex. However, they are configured more for residential applications. Some of the Couches that incorporate them into there electrical systems are often referred to as all electric using a larger number of solar panels, shore power and generators to maintain, in some cases larger numbers of Coach Batteries that power the inverter(s). These coaches also have a larger primary12 volt panel or 2 to 3 sub-panels powering a greater number of items. Also, there tends to be a greater number of 110 volt outlets built into the coaches. This is more prevalent in coaches with 50 amp. for shore power and the use of inverters that supply 2-- 120 volt feeds that equal 220 volts as measured across the 2 primary line breakers in the main AC power panel. This is a link to a Trace installation PDF file to look at if you wish. http://www.soligent....cts/22161_3.pdf One thing for sure is that as the market and customers look for more features on and in their Coaches, the level of sophistication in the power system increases. Rich.

Jack, I will forward to information to you. The latching relay Should stay closed, if not then you have a option to try. make up a jumper wire with a (start with a 10 amp fuse in the jumper wire) Connect it across the latching relay. This should power up the high current solenoid and power up your fuse panel. Should the fuse blow. Then you need to take some resistance readings from the coil circuit connection of the solenoid to its metal case, looking for a short to ground. Now, if the solenoid closes OK with the jumper without blowing the fuse, this will give you power to use temporarily. Just a work around until the bad part(s) can be replaced it the circuit. Rich.

Jack, Looks like I thought it would, except for the use of a solenoid instead of a latching relay!! The small circuit board and its relay supplies power to the latching relay. The one below it is a solenoid. Now, what I think should happen in this case is when the latching relay closes, it should stay in the on mode. This allows power to flow to the winding on the solenoid, that then closes to power up you main 12 volt fuse panel(s). Both the relay and the solenoid need to be closed to supply power to you 12 volt circuit panels. The unit at the top is a 415 unit and works as described in my prior post. The item on the left is the used to charge the coach batteries from the alternator. The large circle(s) under the copper bus bar are high current circuit breakers. Does that make sense ? The pictures do help me!! Rich.

Could you attach a picture or two to a post ? I will see if I can cross index the numbers you posted. Thinking that the 5 amp fuse replaces the fuseable link in this case. Could you tell me if you have any 12 volt coach functions. there appears to be 2-12 volt fuse boxes powered from the battery disconnect circuit drawings I have. The inverter mentioned for the coach is a Trace RV 2512. That would mean 2500 watts of 110 AC from 12 volts. KIB Makes a number of propitiatory circuit boards. The 963-1C-1205 could be one of the newer control Boards used to energize many different types of circuits. This is a link to the control circuit board that might be what you have. Old link http://www.kibenterprises.com/highside.html part discontinued New Link--http://rvpowerpartsplus.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=360 Did you look at the link information I posted ? Do your relays match that information? Rich.

There are 2 ways the relays where wired. These are latching relays and the switch is a momentary rocking switch that toggles them off an on. The difference in the wiring is where the fuse link(s) is connected. The links are gray in color and outwardly show no sign of being open. Both fuse links need to be good and both relays need to energize to get the system on line. There should be a Purple wire from the switch to the relay, at the switch there will be a white wire going to ground and the other end of the Purple wire. Purple wire to center connection of the SW.#2-- White wire to connection #1 Is this what you see ? The switch does not need to be locked to keep the circuit active ! The lock is to prevent from inadvertently turning off the 12 volt system. 12 Volts should be present on 1 side of each relay, these are high current circuits with large fuses so do not short out these cables. One gets a large spark if you do !!!! and the fusses are expensive and special. Not found at the auto supply store. The relay part number listed is KIB 16615055 Momentary, Location Rear Run Box. Page # 196 Monaco prints. Edit: 1-18-2013 second edit, 5-14-2016 The latching relay is an effective battery disconnect device. The LR9806 is a single-pulse latching relay. It only requires a short "pulse" of voltage to activate or deactivate the relay. Since the LR9806 does not require constant voltage, it is one less load on the battery. Discontinued. Link to a replacement for the LR9806 http://rvpowerpartsplus.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=360 Edit : 1-19-2013 This device feeds one of the Latching Relays and could be a part of your problem. Original equipment on high end Monaco motorhomes since 1995! The Model LE-315 Keep-It-Up and the Model LE-415 Super Keep-It-Up are battery maintainers. They are fully automatic devices which are used in motorhomes to keep the chassis battery fully charged when the coach is plugged into shore power, or the AC generator is operating. Both will deliver up to 15 Amp. charging current. The Model LE-415 automatically shuts down when the coach is dry camping to protect the coach battery, and features a green light to show when it is active. Patented in the US and Canada. http://johnstoecker.vpweb.com/The-Product.html Rich. NOTE! Herman, Your coach should be wired the same! Why there are 2 different wiring methods ?? both accomplish the same result.

Hi Dave and welcome to FMCA. This link might help find your problem regarding the EMS 800 series. http://www.rvcruzer.com/docs/EMS800_SvcManual.pdf Rich.

Here is a Freightliners Custom Chassis link that lists a number of informational PDF files regarding their products. http://freightlinerc...enu-id-150.html One file in particular would be useful to owners of any of their coaches. The PDF files are on the right side the of the Web page. The one of real interest is Motorhome Maintenance Tips. It lists routine maintenance and a checklist for storing one's coach. Freightliner service centers Link. This will allow one to fine a center, but from experience they are not all equally set up for RV's. Some have space for RV's to park with level areas,power and water and other locations no RV sites. The ones to look for are the Oasis Centers, then you call them and ask what amenities they provide for you. There is a very wide range of what they provide. http://freightlinerc...servicecenters/ Rich

Jim, On my coach a Fleetwood product different model and year. One access the drive system from under the coach. The drive motor needs to be disengaged from the system and the the drive is turned by hand, using a wrench or a drill motor with the appropriate adapters. My side(s) drive is made by power Gear. Could you post your system make and model ? Also, look under the coach and look for the slider drive rails and the mechanism. Take a 2 or 3 pictures and attach them to your thread. Look for the drive motor assembly and get a good picture of it and the gearbox driving the drive axles. Rich. Added link on 1-21-2013. This is a link to how to manually operate one of the systems used on Fleetwood products. http://support.powergearus.com/techdocs/82-S0140-00.pdf

Hi Brad, With the temps that low things are changing in size regarding the jack cylinders and pistons. that will cause then to move due to volume changes and also the possibility of some fluid leaking out around the seals. You might look at the base pads to see if any oil is collecting in or on them. If so you might want to cycle them, but they might move very slowly if the temperatures are still in the 20 to 30 degree range. If your in the Southwest you should be through the worst of it in another day or so. Rich.

Wallee, Check and see if there is a low spot in the filler line for the water tank, This loop can fill with water and block the free movement of air into the tank. Some fillers have a vent built into the side of the larger filler line. Kind of like the vent lines on fuel tank systems. Rich.

Lyle, Think it would reduce the heat considerably if you could elevate the coach, so the pump motor does not have to lift the coach weight. Still need to monitor the temp though. With the jack(s) cycled over an old service pit would do, if one of the older service centers or farmers has one in your area. WAY less work for the pump. Think I would cycle the jack that the line was replaced on first to see if your coach stability increases. Good chance that the greatest amount of air is still trapped in that line. Mick, mentioned the foaming ----- This is a result of the air in the line(s). Good luck. Rich.

Brent, this information should cover your Generator. Its a service manual for Generac. http://www.bdub.net/...rac_IM-NP-Q.pdf There is a 6500 and a 6500 E. Think you may have an E version as you mentioned a flash code. The older units where set at 3720 RPM with no load this sets the AC frequency to 62 cycles, then under load it operates at 60 cycles / 3600 RPM. To set you will need a meter that can read frequency, many of the newer volt / ohm meters incorporate a frequency setting. Rich.

Hi Charles, The bay or pod doors are all very similar. Could you post a picture or two on your thread for all to view. You might give this link a look. many of the latches look like this. I have others but my files obviously need some organizing. http://www.trimarkcorp.com/en/zCategory.aspx?intcategoryid=20 Rich

Hi Alan, As DD suggested. I also think the arm is attached the same way. The common problem when the arm is not orientated properly, is the arm and shaft spline(s) have slipped. This can damage the arm splines on the arm drive shaft also. One can remove the arm, reset it to the proper location and re-tighten. Should there be significant damage to the splines you will need to replace items to make a good repair. The problem happens up North quite often when the wiper blades freeze to the windshield and we power them up. There is a considerable amount of torque on the shaft / arm joint. Some systems do use a friction coupling, just a snug joint between the arm and shaft. should this be the case Do Not Over Tighten. That can damage the drive shaft. Rich.