dickandlois

One could bleed them like brake lines, but it is real messy. The same results is accomplished by cycling the jacks full cycle a number of times and much less of a mess. Having the coach elevated so the jacks cycle with no load, full extension. It would be nice if the systems had bleeders at the top of the cylinders. I replaced all the lines on one of my coaches and bleeding them by opening the connections that where located at the top of each cylinder under pressure ( jack down cycle) it did work, but messy. Two lines failed while in Alaska and I was allowed to work in the shop parking area and use some of there pans under the jacks to trap the lost fluid. Real good lines and never had another one fail. Kind of wish I had pulled them and installed the old plastic style. They where custom made, industrial grade material, rated at -70 deg. One of my smaller light bulb moments !!!! Rich.

That could be the problem !! and worth checking out...Most often its the little things that trip us up. Rich.

Bill, This information may fill in some of the gaps in your information. Link. http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/furnaces/MPD%2032046%20E%2011.27.06.pdf Rich.

Mike, The seam areas can be sealed using Dicor it is sticky to work with, but it works best on flat surfaces as it tend to self level and will droop down the side. Gravity is going to win. The sealing tape. Called Eterna Bond, comes in varying widths. Camping World sells patching kits made up of the material, not sure they stock the rolls. I get it from a Commercial building supplier in the area. It is pricy, but it will seal the area and stay where you put it. NOTE ! once its in place it can be almost imposable to remove. It pays to work carefully, cleaning the surface well to start. Should your roof be made of EPDM, cleaning materials with any oil in there mixture can not be used. !!!! Plan on the best way to work on the area--Slide in or out, part way out ?? You might want to use one of the roof cleaners sold at CW to start. Rinsing the surface well and drying. Cut the material to length, lay it along the area you want to apply it, (use a little duct tape to hold it in place)(Make any adjustments or cuts). Then start to remove the adhesive protection material (only on short areas)(it really sticks to anything it touches) then slowly expose the adhesive as you work along. Press down on the tape to make a good seal (A wall paper edge roller works real well for this) If its in the correct spot it will stop the leak, last a long time and look good. Good luck, Rich.

You just know that all the fuel will evaporate or varnish in the tank. Stable in the gas helps, but I think some top oil added to the fuel and run through the engines to get items coated is good. The battery(s) need to be removed and placed on chargers if possible, and some one to check the water levels and condition. Jack stands to support the coach and some pads under the tires. Coat the tires with vegetable oil to protect them, the oil does not react with the rubber like petroleum based oils. Had one person mention lemon oil, never tried that one. Think some peppermint oil around the bays and inside to keep the critters out would be good. The coach will smell like a candy factory when you return, but better then the option. RB you should change the oil and filters and flush the cooling system while your at it. Rich.

Hi Mike! Leaks are hard to find in most cases, water is always trying to find a way in. When you get to the warmer part of the country, look things over and maybe clean and put some lube on the seals around the slide and the sidewall seals. They overlap in most cases to get a good seal. Some of the seals are not easy to get to. the areas around the seals needs to be clean, like the slide walls that contact the seals. Regarding the top edge seal between the roof line and side(s) look the area over well and then post some information regarding the condition of the area in question and maybe attach some pictures. There are a number of ways to seal areas using materials far better the duct tape. Some are better then others when it comes to where the repair needs to be made. Rich.

From your post, I'm wondering if you have a slow leak in one of the jacks, one of the jack control solenoids or the dump valve that allows the jacks to be retracted. lose of pressure, leak down problem. The only other item I can think of is a loose jack assembly where it connects to the frame. Got to reread the manual information myself an look for any clues. Rich.

Do you have the owners manual for your furnace? If not list the Make an Model number and I will see if I can supply a cope of some information that covers you's. Rich.

This link could be helpful in understanding the leveling system. http://www.lci1.com/...veling%20II.pdf Rich.

Have you noticed any change in the size of the cubes? If they get too big then the water will not drain out of the supply line inside the refrigerator and block the line until is thawed out. Rich.

Jim, Here is a link to the IRV2 sight.. It mentions some possible solutions. http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/flex-steel-6-way-chair-leg-rest-wont-retract-36366.html Rich.

I found this information on your year Chassis. https://www.fleet.fo...iessd_06mhc.pdf The sound you are hearing could be the ABS brake pump running. 4 wheel disk brakes with a drive-line Drum Parking brake. The leveling system is supplied by Damon. Could you post the Leveling System Model number and Make on the thread for us ? The way the Leveling Controls are integrated into the braking system may lead to an answer for the LED flashing issue. Rich.

P.M. Always good to dump you air ride system. It is also easier on the jacks, they do not have to be extended as far and this reduces the chase of damage and as mentioned it sure is easier to get in and out of the coach. This also allows for more weight of the suspension to be on the tires and less on the jacks. At times we have all had to push the limits of where we feel comfortable with the leveling systems. Some are braver then I could ever be !!! Rich.

Thanks for the update Andy. Sounds almost to easy. Glad you have found a way to fix the windows. There is no good reason that I have not had one fog up on me to date. Just not my turn yet. So knowing its doable is good. Dwight P. My friend it looks like you have some competition in the window repair field. Between you and Andy I might be able to fix one. Rich.

You are correct, no coil power at the ATS, but the way a post is worded also tells me about the contacts on the ATS---- generator side are in good or bad condition. When I have the generator running on our coach and connect to shore power the transfer relay transfers the load to shore power that is how, I think all ATS relays work. So the load contacts on the relay should be OK. (Generator Side) That leaves the control coil and the other side of the relay contacts in question along with all the wiring between the Power Riser to the ATS and power panel in question. I have watched owners start there generators with the AC units power on and the load causes a real arc on the Generator Main breakers. The same for the shore power side at the ATS. When I read a post that the generator circuit works, I do make an assumption that the owner is one that does not leave heavy loads on when connecting to a power source. (That may not always be a good thing though) Rich.

This is a link to the Operation Manual for the system if you need one. http://www.lci1.com/OwnersManuals/Leveling/Electronic%20Leveling%20II.pdf Rich.

ISB Engine is one of the good ones regarding the 2004 year of production. Have you had the ECM scanned of fault codes ? That might be stored as the Check Engine light did come on. Unless something outside the norm happened the engine should run for many more miles then you mentioned. This year engine has a High Pressure Rail injector system and was a good improvement over the Bosh VP-44 system. Low fuel pressure from the lift pump can damage the pumps, they need good fuel flow to cool the electronics inside the pumps. Some chassis manufactures installed a third fuel filter in the fuel line ahead of the lift pump and tucked in along the chassis frame rail drivers side close to the rear axle. This one is real hard to see and find. Rich.

Mike ! A reading of 10.9 volts is real close to the level where the system boards will stop working, if I remember correctly. I will need to look into it to get more details. In the mean time try this link. It might lead to a solution or an option. I do not have the OEM board numbers for your unit. http://www.dinosaure.../Nor_boards.htm Rich.

Do you have the operator manual for your system? If not, this is a link to get a PDF file covering its operation, calibration and some wiring information: http://www.lci1.com/...veling%20II.pdf Rich.

It is a pain to check the sight bowl after every fill up and a lot of owners do not check it as frequently as we should, myself included. I do by my fuel from locations that pump large quantities of fuel and stretch out the intervals some between fill ups. We travel in some nasty weather in the Northeast, so getting under the coach in the snow and cold is not relay on my to do list all the time. Must admit that I have had some water in the sight bowl over the last 10 plus years though. Rich.

Gary, Along with the connections at the transfer relay you might want to check all the shore power wiring connections from the shore power cable to the relay connections. There could be a loose or corroded connection anywhere in the wiring. Hot sides, neutral or ground. The fact that the relay locks and does not chatter when the generator is running leads me to think its worth checking. Rich.

This issue turns up no a number of coaches. I have had the same problem with mine. The way I have mine repaired is to have the windshield removed and replaced. (R an R) The cost out of pocket for me has been $100.00 to remove and replace the windshield using the same seal. This is on a coach with a split windshield. The seals can dry out over time and become stiff. Some times the opening is a little over sized and the seals will slowly separate from the fiberglass as the coach flexes. A good glass shop should be able to give you a good idea, on how to fix the opening. Rich.

Michael, You mentioned that the refrigerator works when directly wired, bypassing the safety circuit. Have you demonstrated this to the Service center? Could you get some help from an electrician with the proper tools to read the current drawn by the refrigerator when its operating. That information can be compared to the maximum current allowed by the sensor that is failing. Second- what is the specified current requirement listed in the specifications for the model your have. This is where I would start to find an answer to the problem. Rich.

Gary, I sent you some information in a (PM) Private Message that should show up in your personal email. I hope that it helps in your quest for a solution to the problem. Keep me in the loop and pass along your findings. This information leads to a sight that covers the HWH system that might be real close to the system your working on. Rich.

With family in FL. they could get you the required paper work by mail unless their laws are different. The different requirements sometimes make things more interesting to say the least. Should the state have temporary tags or transporter tags you should be able to work out a solution. You will need to meet all there requirements regarding insurance. There will be items you need to cover to get the coach ready for a long road trip. Tires, Brakes, Cooling system, Oil and filters, and fuel system are just a few. Rich.