dickandlois

Carla, I have a good friend in the area that owns a DP and has the work done in the area. The problem is they are close to the wild fires at this time and have there hands full. Timing is everything. As things settle down - I will give the a call and ask John who he uses. Rich.

Bill, I just finished looking back through the entire thread. I have to agree with you. Battery Isolator's can do strange things. There are Diodes in them that can brake down when they get hot. Thing is it is unusual for them to work when they cool down, But I have had it happen on 2 alternators. To reduce the problem _-I in stalled some duct work to inject outside air directly into the area around them. This has extended the alternator life. Good luck bburns and thanks for filling us in regarding you travels South away from the storm. Rich.

Lithium battery charging. Can I charge a lithium battery with a normal charger? The “return to bulk” voltage setting in lead acid chargers is normally 12.5-12.7v. This voltage for a lithium battery is way too low. ... A lead-acid charger that can be set to charge no higher than 14.6v can be used for regular charging and then MUST be disconnected after the battery is fully charged. Lithium batteries do not like to be in a float charge. I feel very comfortable saying that 99 % of Recreational Vehicles, cars or trucks charging systems, are not compatible with them. My personal fear is there is a high probability of fire in the transportation and Recreational industry ! Take a look at this link. Covers a number of items related to batteries. http://www.enerdrive.com.au/can-charge-lithium-battery-lead-acid-charger/ Lithium batteries are totally different and a true charger for large systems is not available for the consumer at a reasonable price. Also, they are good for short burst of current, but questionable for extended loads – like powering inverter’s. Rich.

Thing to remember is - There are a number of chargers already install in RV's that are not setup or compatible to charge Lithium Batteries. Replacing the Charger / Inverters can be pricey ! So look before you leap. Rich.

Glenda, Welcome to the FMCA forum ! Most cigarette lighter circuits are fused at 20 amps, but it is always good to know for sure. Then Look and see the maximum current the brake controller and the GPS requires, before buying. One does not want to have a fuse blow while using the brake controller going down a long grade ! There are different stile splitter's on the web. look close to make sure there is enough room for it to plug in. Rich.

Sherry, are you asking where to plug in 120 volt items? There is frequently a GFI outlet in one or more of the curbside bays. Rich.

bobgdesige, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Thanks for the information. Can not say I have seen them at our locale Walmart. There is a family run store in the area that is a cross between an Army surplus and Radio Shack. Every tinker needs a location to find items to play with. Rich.

Things are very confusing when it comes to transmissions used over a 4 year time line ( and that gets muddied even more depending on engine options - when you through in the 6 L, not used hear for one coach - but not sure about the other. Could the original posters please inform the forum as to how many forward gears they have ? We might be able to brake it down this way GM - 4L185 has 4 speeds with over drive and most likely equipped with a Tow / Haul button.? The Allison 1000 series has 5 speeds with 1 overdrive. The Allison 2000 series has 6 speeds with 2 overdrives. I have a number of the electrical and chassis drawings But the Chassis W series is different by year and over all length. To Make things more confusing - there is no mention of what transmission was used. As Brett might say, Not in my pay grade LOL Rich.

Jim, Thanks for the feedback ! Could you post the The chassis you have? Thinking the part info might be Chassis specific. Rich.

Graig, Great work! The brain was smoked last night, so I needed some down time. It was wonderful to read that the issue has been solved! The information below was where I stopped. The marks on page 1 of the drawings went right through the problem area. After that I went into the VIM and made up a chart of all the input and outputs to see if there was any possible items that could be connected to the sense relay coil power and you found the the common point! Really good work on your end. The failed part caused a oscillation in the loop of relays. That buzz in the one relay when the the engine was running or not was caused by loop when the that pressure switch failed. Sent you the wiring interface info for the VIM in a PM that you can open and file with the wiring info. The info below describes the wiring and circuit 125 F trailed off towards the VIM module (No electronics in it, just a number of relays and cross connect points) The Camera and the jack power comes from the neutral sense relay. Body Builders connection. Lower lift corner of page 1. Those 2 items have low voltage / dimly lite. From Circuit C 409 / white wire neutral. sense relay! When Not Energized. From The Cab / Engine Harness - right side of page one. It appears the sense relay coil power is getting an unwanted voltage from circuit 125-F. That also powers the park brake relay coil ! That voltage is being supplied from pin F-1 of the cab harness. Need To Change to page 2. circuit 125-F powers pin-B of the park break buzzer switch. Please understand that the Chassis wiring is totally different on many coaches, but the issue(s) noted here most likely are caused by a shorted component. Diode, Relay, switch, wires or connections. The best person for the job most likely is a tech that works on system control circuits. They are a different bread and most likely work on assembly lines, production, traffic control systems, Elevators, Railroad control systems and last but not least are the techs that work for all of us. The military personal that keep all of the high tech equipment running. Note! When the coach has a relay that is buzzing - there is a strong possibility the voltage will read low. When this happens the only way to check the supply voltage correctly is with an oscilloscope . The waveform will a square wave or a modified trapezoid. This indicates a shorted component, causing a feedback loop. All the relay coils that read low or share a common 12 volt source will read the same coil voltage. The component in this case was the park brake buzzer. All 3 contacts shorted together. rich.

Craig, You mentioned Fuse Voltage - I think. Could you tack some voltage reading at the fuses, list each one that reads other then 12 volt? Then remove the fuse and see if the voltage is coming from the 12 volt bus supply or from the end of the fuse that is powering a system or control board. The only item that has an issue is the chime relay when the engine is running it buzzes. I do understand that the brake light and cruse system appear to be dysfunctional. Rich. Got to take time to go get a hard copy of the wiring.

Kay, Think that is possible,but a digital meter can be an issue also. The leveling system and backup screen also indicate the low voltage. Need to find the common point for what should be a stady 12 volts. There has to be a common point feeding the systems - cruse control is connected directly to the ECM . That is a reach ,but is a possibility. Rich.

Craig, I will look at the drawing area ! I did do some editing to my reply - so you might want to reread my thoughts. You do have a few hrs. head start on me ! LOL Rich

Craig, Just open the file ! There are a number of Differences between your chassis wiring and mine. A quick look and the cruse control and brake light circuits are - joined at the hip ! When you press the brake peddle - the cruse is disengaged and needs to be reset manually - when you press the coast / set button the cruse sets at the new speed setting plus the chime These 3 items you listed as having issues are in the same general area of the wiring harness have wires running outside and under the chassis also. The Park brake relay has issues when engine is off or running - if I'm reading your info correctly. This fact kind of leads me away from the alternator and towards the dash wiring ! Because of the proximity of the problems. Going to look at the park brake circuit real closely - Oxidized connection or wire damage ? Tracing the wiring is a slow / tedious project and can be labor intensive. Think I will copy the drawings onto a flesh drive and get a hard copy printed out! These drawings are generally in the 11 x 17 in. format. I then work to trace out the circuits and color code them with colored pencils. Your issue kind of popped up overnight> By chance do you have squirrels or other varmints at your camp sight. The little devils love to chew on wires ! Rich. Edited this post on 12/02/2018 For Those interested in a picture of the offending part I attached a picture, this part was compromised due to water and dirt intrusion. Shorted the 3 internal together and caused the buzz in the relay circuit in question. The Buzz was caused by a Mechanical Oscillation caused by the shorts inside this Park Pressure Sensor. When the system was aired up or not! In this case the part was located - drivers side near the rear axle. Part cost around $100.00 The labor finding it can be a killer! NOT All systems use this type of setup, but do not over look it.,

Craig ! Could you pass on a copy(Attach a Copy) of the electrical PDF file that Fleetwood sent you? Think you have the Allison touch pad setup - I have one of the last mechanical shift lever systems and my electrical wiring will not match your's Does the chime normally come on when the ignition key is inserted? or is the chime you are talking about related to low air pressure? Need to isolate the 12 volt source feed to the items in question ! Rayin mentioned a possible ground problem - loose connection, but most of the grounds in this case have 1 common ground point under the dash. The parking brake relay in the electrical compartment above the generator is the one that’s buzzing, removing it gets rid of all the problems The coach starts & seems to operate normally except the brake lights don’t work & the cruise doesn’t disengage when brakes are applied. Installing or removing the parking brake relay with the engine running doesn’t change anything except the relay buzzes. Rich What Model Journey do you have? WKP32T WKP34B WKP36L WKP34BD WKP36GD WKP36LD

Up early to deliver the DW to a poling location, where she will be working a long shift today. I will be doing some repairs to one of the cars, with temps in the sixty's today and getting the snow equipment checked out. Looks like we might be getting some over the weekend. An yes it is a little early even for us. Rich.

p.s. Is there ever a time in the life of a motorhome that there is a year when no repairs are needed? Not really ! I'm constantly working on something built with bricks and sticks also..

Joe, you posted this It has 1/2 of the oil entry holes than the Cummins OEM. From my seat that translates into low oil flow! ?? Did you mean the Cummings - has fewer holes then the Wix filter ? Rich.

Carl, With the information just offered. I have to agree! I have to wounder where the OP measured the 120 volts / that where not present and thinking the control board had failed? The OP could check the ATS activation coil for power, But I think there is a strong possibility the ATS contacts could be FUSED together due to a high current load at some point. Rich.

Could You post all the information you can on the slide? You should have some info in the owners information binder. There should be a brand name and some model info regarding the slide system. The more information you can offer - the feedback info offered will be more relative to the issue you are experiencing. Rich.

Richard ! You are correct regarding the newer drive trains. With the older coaches - things where not setup the same way. The automatic transmissions where free wheeling, lockup transmissions / torque where not on the market. Today the system will offer engine braking in the system except for first gear. Rich.

w0ger, I agree with Joe ! Your best starting point might be Tiffin. Possibilities are short in an LED - if you coach is equipped with them. Have you had the windshield replaced or some repair work on the front of the coach? Wire would be running through the front firewall in most cases and wire could be rubbing on a sharp edge on the edge. This would cause a direct ground - this short would also tend to come and go also. Has there been any interior work done on the interior area - when the inside trim around the windshield was removed ? Some coach builders run the wiring behind this trim and then the wiring exits out through a hole in the front fiberglass behind the top marker lights. Rich.

Mike, The Big issue that needs to be covered is the required acid protection - because I think you have a cylinder sleeved engine block? The product you are considering looks like it will work. Did they or have you ask what an analysis of the old coolant revealed ? I just read your post and have not looked at the chemical mix used by Peak. I did find this information, Not sure when it was released to the market, but in some of there literature. The patented inhibitor system used in Final Charge coolant is formulated with Contamination Tolerant Additives and is fully compatible with all coolant technologies, according to the company. Kind of open ended, but full compatibility? Question that a little, if you continue to use the same product - they sound like, they will stand behind it for more miles then most Coach owners will drive. The tour buses might give it a run to its maximum mileage. Rich.

Thanks For the feedback and glad you got it working. Oxidation and bad grounds are troublemakers for all of us! Rich.

Don, The Generator has 3 Fuses. They are under a panel above the external start / stop switch. F-2= 10 amps an powers the starter. It is shown as a 15 amp on the circuit drawings and F-3 =25 amps powers the Glow plugs. Sense the generator starts and runs those fuses must be good. F -1, parts list lists it as a 10 amp fuse , however the electrical drawing shows a 15 amp fuse. This Fuse supplies power to the generator control board. So, I think if this fused has blown you might try a 15 amp fuse, but keep an eye on it. The only reason I'm offering the thought is because of the difference in it's size between the 2 locations in the Onan QD 8000 manual. If the starter 12 volts is removed and the generator stops, there is a strong possibility that there is an issue with the control circuit. Because if the board is working properly - it is not making 12 volts needed to keep it running. This is a common setup used by Onan, but not on all models ! Rich.