dickandlois

Carl, You finished your coffee before me, and hit the send box first. LOL Rich.

flokerns, Welcome to the FMCA Forum Links that might help find the master cylinder https://www.millsupply.com/stepvan-parts/john-deere-oshkosh-brake-parts/master-cylinder-hydroboost-for-freightliner-mt35-oshkosh-john-deere/ https://www.millsupply.com/stepvan-parts/john-deere-oshkosh-brake-parts/hydromax-brake-booster-and-master-cylinder/ Rich. HYDRO MAX POWER BRAKE BOOSTER.pdf

Thanks Bob, Hot 02 sensor, kind of make me lean towards the engine also running on the lean side. So it might be a good time to change the air filter, clean or replace the air flow sensor and take a look at a couple spark plugs to see what the gap looks like. Good luck and let the group know what things looked like and how everything turned out. Rich. Interesting that the number one Ox sensor went - the number 2 Ox sensor on my 8.1 is the one that shows up. from time to time - but mine does have 145,000 miles on it. I call it my over sized Vet. The only thing it will not pass is a gas station. LOL

The reason you can get the engine out of limp mode when you disconnect the battery is the ECM memory is erased and the engine needs to run for a period of time for the ECM to read all the sensor information and if the 02 sensor voltage is out of range or the MAP sensor is not reading the proper air flow - it will go into limp mode > the MAP - Mass Air Flow sensor tells the ECM what the fuel mixture for the load should be - So if the fuel mix is rich or lean the engine will go into limp mode. This is to protect the engine from serious damage if the mixture is to lean, one can damage the pistons and valves. Rich. What codes does the garage or someone else get from your ECM ?

We use cutting boards at home made from Maple, but they are a little heavy, so we use a plastic cutting board while traveling in the coach. Rich. Like dkreuzen mentioned, Corian is pricey and matching colors can be challenging !

Like WildeBill said - this is a new one for me also. LOL Jim, kind of thinking along the same line as Tom. If you have a remotely operated awning, there is a possibility of a ground issue at the 12 volt and control board edge connection. The ignition circuit that generates the high voltage spark uses an oscillator circuit and if the frequency is close to the remove control frequency, what is known as a side-band frequency is interfering with the awning control module. The quest things to check and clean are all the water heater control board edge connections(use a clean,soft pencil eraser) to buff the copper portion of the connection located on the water heater control module. Reconnect and cycle the water heater ! No Joy ? Then check all the other connection at the LP relay and the Green / yellow ground wire connections around the same area are also clean and tight. Should that not work, just disconnect that connector and retry by recycling the water heater again - no problem - then you have isolated the area of the interference and if you have never replaced the water heater control module - that would be the next item to try. Let the group know what the results are. Rich.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum! There is always a first time for interesting things to happen ! Like DD Mentioned - it might just float out on its own, kind of depends on how the drain system is setup; but if there is a sharp right angle bend it could also get caught in the area of the gate valve. In that case one might need to remove the gate valve(s) depending on the way things are set up. Rich.

Like Tom mentioned, when you get into Indiana, your are kind of in the center of RV country. So members where would go to have a Freightliner Custom Chassis serviced? Rich,

The cost of the parts from Freightliner was in the neighborhood of 200.00 / 220.00 per unit. The rear springs are more straight forward to replace and the front ones are a little more involved time / labor wise. The OEM cost for them was as good or better them other suppliers and the parts where the correct ones for the chassis. We have a truck service center in the area that does a good job on most of the chassis work and is also medium / heavy duty inspection certified. There labor rates are about half what the RV service centers charge and they replace and service hundreds of them a year. There labor rate at the time was around 60.00 an hr. compared to the factory centers. FTI, They repair, dump trucks, Over the road tractor trailers, buses, ambulances, firetrucks and school buses. So you might look around the area for information on good truck spring shop(s) They did replace some brake parts for me when I asked them to do an R and R job an I was not real clear regarding the replacement of items. MY bad - they know me to well and in the past I have done work that as I have gotten older no longer have the strength to do. Kind of where the mind says go and the body says you know better. LOL The shop could also reset the ride height properly. Rich.

Brett, I have to agree with you over all, but the air bags do dry out and stiffen over time, I did replace all 4 of mine over 2 years. The rear ones had a very small leak down issue that was found with some diligent use of soupy water over a few months. After the rears where replaced the front ones where replaced the following summer. Not because of leaks - but the difference of riding on a more supple air spring was very noticeable. Just a Note ! I did find out that the only case for roadside assistance for a failed air spring in our policy was if the bladder blowout like a tire. ?? and the coach chassis was built in 1999. The coach was built about 18 months later. Rich.

Strats, Thanks for your feedback. Could you post the size of the fuse the was bad for the group? Did not go back and read you complete list of posts, but where the towed turn signals also inoperative? Like Wildebill mentioned - they do hide items in some out of the way locations and over the years, there have been a sizable number of items tucked away in the main wiring harnesses ! Many of the newer wiring setups have placed more of the fuses in fuse boxes, but owners will often be looking for items like Diodes and fuses that are tucked away in the wiring and not mentioned in the general information - only in the main wiring drawings and that information tends to be only filed at Frightliner or other chassis builder production centers. Along with a reluctance by many service centers to work on the Custom Chassis build for a specific application, issues or items like this are snakes in the grass just passing time to raise up and bit. Thanks again for your reply !!! Rich.

Like Kay asked, Kind of thinking something did not get connected or a cable is connected to the wrong point. Check the wiring between the generator and the battery Connections. Everything worked before the batteries where replace? Unlikely the person that replaced the batteries removed anything other then the main battery cables unless you had some other service work done. Generator ground connection good? The starter circuit for the generator - if you have a remote starter point that is not working / can you start the generator at the generator, using a switch mounted on the generator? Could you post the make and model number of the Generator? Does the generator run on LP or Gas? Rich.

The common practice for wiring the 12 volt plugs is to connect them to 1 or 2 circuits power from the chassis battery. The fuse box for the gas power units is in the engine compartment and is under the hood outside, not under the doghouse. Could have 1- 30 amp fuse or maybe 2 -20 amp fusses. These circuits are often referred to as the coach builders convenience outlets. Rich.

This fuse does not fail very often! The last one that I found on a coach - was damaged when a tow truck drive thought those big terminals would make a good spot to jump start a coach. Coach's are not just trucks with an oversized cab. The owner really had no clue regarding where to connect the jumper cables. Rich.

Lloyd, The readings on the batteries are with in the range one would expect - that being the case and the inverter running normally takes the charging systems out of the mix. Frrom your last post - it sounds like all the 120 volt systems are working and the inverter output is working. That place the problem in the wiring for the 12 volt system. Of course once I turn the engine off it all dies --- This is the key to the problem. The Key is to find out why the 12 volt system drops out shortly after the engine or generator are turned off. Sounds like from your description that there is a relay dropping out A decaying 12 volts - holds the circuit on until a voltage drops some and at that point in the circuit drops below the ability to keep the relay closed. 12 volt disconnect circuit / also known as the salesman switch. accomplishes the same results - turns off all 12 volts to the coach, BUT not to the chassis 12 volts. Make one test for me ! Do the electric steps work - when the problem of no 12 volts happens ? Kind Of thinking, Kay might be on to something - regarding the coach battery ground connections. Good ground connections issue is at the top of the list for many intermittent problems ! Rich.

lloydwells, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Dead Battery and engine starts with the generator running. Does the inverter work and what is the voltage reading on the house / coach batteries? What is the voltage reading on the chassis batteries with the engine running? and also the voltage reading of the coach / house batteries. Repeat the test with the generator reading and post the voltage of the batteries and post the results for both charging systems. What are the voltages for the batteries when you are connected to shore power ? Rich.

Bill, you might try to contact this group and see if they have some information or contacts that might be of help. The Wanderlodge may no longer be built, but because Blue Bird motorhomes were solid, they’re still very popular. The Vintage Birds chapter has 172 families. If you’re a current owner or even a former owner of a Blue Bird Wanderlodge or BMC, you’re encouraged to join. See the chapter’s website, http://www.vintagebirds.com/, for more information, or contact Jim Miller at (607) 898-4701; email jem590@aol.com. Rich.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! The attached file might offer some help and you might try to look up IPX contact information to fined a location in Canada. There are internal fuse(s) for the module and on post had an issue where water condensation on the Dash AC unit got into the module under the dash and caused the same issue you have described. The module is not weather proof and water worked its way into the electronics by capillary action and corroded the electrical circuits. Rich. Smart Wheel _TROUBLESHOOT.pdf

Kevin. A little long, but need to get some good base line information. Because it happens at the same time - 10:00 PM every time. sounds like it's a clock controlled item. I do not have any information on the system regarding the programming or an error log. Might contact Magnum service to see if they can offer any insight. You do not mention any error codes, but the red LED will go off if there is an error or issue somewhere. You did mention running the AC units ! Are you trying to run them off the inverter directly? 2000 Watts is not enough power to start or run them. That requires around 3000 to 3500 watts to run each unit and I can not believe the coach would be wired that way. From the method you use to reset things by running the generator and then going back to shore power sounds like a ATS issue or possible loose connection(s) in the 120 volt AC power panel(s) Things get shaken up well going down the road. So checking ALL the screw connections of the grounds, neutrals and circuit beakers might be in order. If you do not feel safe working on the power panels - get some help. Items do expand and contract between the heat of the day and the cooler air at night, but for the issue to happen at the same time every night ? Power companies do switch from different suppliers to match the load request of there customers and the inverter internal transfer speed is in fractions of a second. Would that be an issue and only Magnum could answer that question ! This is how they should work. From what I do have on file. The MS Series inverter/charger has two modes of operation: INVERTER (providing power to your appliances from the batteries) and AC (running from shore power or a generator). Whenever the inverter is in AC mode, it passes power directly to your appliances as well as recharges the batteries using a 3-stage battery charger (Bulk, Absorption and Float). This approach to battery charging provides rapid and complete charging cycles without placing undue stress on the batteries. Inverter operation is fully automatic. Search With search mode enabled, the inverter pulses the AC output looking for an electrical appliance (typically 5 to 100 watts, depending upon the setting youve selected). Whenever there is no load detected, the inverter automatically goes into search mode (sleep) to minimize energy consumption. During this time, the inverters green LED flashes (fast) to indicate SEARCH mode. When an appliance is switched on inside the coach, the inverter recognizes the need for power and automatically starts the inverter Inverter Mode Whenever AC Shore Power is no longer sensed, the inverter automatically transfers to battery power with no interruption to your appliances. The inverters green LED flashes once every 2 seconds (medium flash) to indicate it is running on battery power and providing AC to the coach. AC Shore Power Mode Whenever AC Shore Power is sensed, the inverter automatically transfers to the shore power with minimal interruption to your appliances. Overload During inverter and AC Shore Power operation, the inverter monitors the AC and DC circuits. In the event of a short-circuit or overload condition, the inverter will shut down. The inverters LED turns OFF to indicate the fault condition. Overtemperature During inverter operation, if the inverter becomes overheated, it will shut down to protect itself from damage. The inverters LED turns OFF to indicate the fault condition. WARNING: Prior to performing these checks, switch both the AC and DC circuits OFF. Visually inspect the batteries for cracks, leaks, or swelling - replace if necessary Use baking soda to clean and remove any electrolyte spills or buildups Check and tighten all battery hold down clamps Clean and tighten (10 to 12 foot pounds) all battery terminals and connecting cables Check and fill battery water levels (Liquid Lead Acid batteries only) Check individual battery voltages (replace those that vary more than 0.3 VDC of each other) Check all cable runs for signs of chafing - replace if necessary Check the inverters cooling vents - clean as necessary Check and tighten (16 foot pounds) the inverters internal AC terminal block connections(All 120 volt AC connections need to meet this specification.) Rich.

Brett, Things looked like what one would expect nominal humid weather would produce regarding the level of rusting. Kind of had a rebuild job on the coach after I made the deal to buy it. It had been taken on a trip to Alaska and the owner never washed the calcium chloride of from under the coach and it needed some extensive work replacing the steel and support system from the main frame assembly down that supports the stowage area, the heater, fresh water bay, battery trays and inverter. I would not undertake that kind of task now! A number of years have passed, but it really was in excellent condition otherwise with very low generator hrs. and only around 17,000 miles. The DW loves the floor plan and is in no rush to change after going through a few hundred over the years. The Dealer made his money on my Gas unit - that they basically just roiled. Rich.

jfred58, Welcome to the Fmca Forum! Need to ask if the coach is connected to Shore power or the measurement was made with the generator running? Rich.

Point taken Brett ! A clear portion of line inserted into the system around the fuel filter area should cover that. Thanks! Rich. Note, Got all the brake hardware under the brake drums replaced an it was obvious it needed some TLC - The rollers where not roiling well and that does not make for nice even braking. Rich.

Been going through fuel lift pumps like candy from my point of view. Going to start a replacement process of the fuel line, lift pump and filters starting tomorrow now that I have procured all the needed parts. Going to replace the 1/4 in. line from the last fuel filter going to the injector pump.- increasing the size to 5/6 in. line and install high flow banjo bolts, that restrict fuel flow from the first fuel filter output all the way to the injector pump input. Will be taking fuel pressure reading after each part is replaced and get some flow rate readings, if my friendly mechanic will let me borrow the flow meter fro a few hrs. I did call Cummins and did not get any real base line information on how long or how many miles there pumps should last. Thinking they have some test stand information and should be running spot checks on the new units being supplied. However, going through 5 of them in 120,000 miles does not make sense as they drop below the specified 10 PSI minimum specification in the engine repair manual . When my big 8.1 L gas powered truck will go 125,000 miles on each pump. I'm not much for making the parts department richer. Rich.

The 12 volt loads for the coach are all the equipment modules that control the Refrigerator, Temperature control system, wireless entry system, remote slide control systems and the audio / visual equipment. The chassis 12 volt loads are the ECM and any other modules connected to the Closed Area Network system that monitors the drive train and leveling systems and even the clock on the Radio. How new is the coach? The newer ones have Control modules that store performance information and removing the battery power could mean driving for 100 miles to rebuild the base line information so it will pass state inspections or start driving properly again. Rich

mlmlpa, take a look at this link for a cross number for the motor. http://densoheavyduty.com/find-my-part/part-number Start here if you wish. http://densoheavyduty.com/windshield-washers Rich.