dickandlois

Richard , you might take a look at the sight. They supply a number of items and something just might work. When doing a job I'm for doing it right or at least give it my best effort. Thanks for the pictures ! always good to keep the gray mater exercised. http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/Shop-by-Category/Silicone-Hose-and-Fittings Rich M.

Richard, could you get a picture of the crossover pipe and how the ends line up? Never seen one of these setups. Trying to get some idea of the peak temperature in the area where the tube is located. Think it might be possible to to create flared ends on the tube and connect the tube to flared ends at the connection end using V band clamp the junctions together. The other option might be a stainless steel coupling to splice the pipe at both ends. What is the ID and OD measurements of the pipe and the ends you want to couple together ? Rich.

Well your response covers the thoughts posted and the check valve was covered when you replaced it. The only other item that comes to mind is the flow of the hot water from the water heater and the check valve you replaced. There is a possibility that there is a build up of calcium in the hot water tank and the plumbing between it and the check valve input. A possible solution might be to drain the tank, place a 2 gallons of vinegar in the tank and top it off with water. Run the tank through a heating cycle, let it set over night, Then flush the tank with fresh water. this should reduce the calcium levels in the tank and hopefully the pluming line between the output of the tank and the check valve. Rich.

Robert, is you coach built on a F-350, F-450 or F-53 Chassis ? Your location makes for the possibility of some rust build up in the fuel system. One thing they have done is go to the poly fuel tanks. They go a long way in reducing fuel tank rust. The other item causing the fuel flow to be restricted, are items in high pressure system or if you smell fuel a defective fuel line - That needs a tension ASAP. Also, get a ford garage to test the fuel pressure and flow rate, then one can zero in on the injectors and control system. Also, E 85 fuel can be an issue if it sets in the lines and it also can affect the different seals, by drying them out. When stroing the coach it is always good to use some additives to reduce the effect of Ethanol. Being the second owner leaves some unanswered question regarding the winterizing of the coach. Rich

Depending on how warm you like the shower water, the distance between the water heater, length of time the flow is reduced and the outside temperature all affect the water temperature when the flow is restarted. We tend to let a little water flow to reduce the problem. The Plumbing lines are not insulated real well and I have added some lengths of the foam insulation around the water lines. Rich.

518robt Yes Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Could you post the chassis information. What chassis and the Coach weight listed inside the coach near the drivers station in most cases? Do you know if the coach set for a extended period of time. Five years old and only 20,000 miles, so it has not been driven much and what part of the country are you and the coach from? Rich.

This will be a little long, but the objective is to fill in the information gap on the how and what of this Climate Control system operation. The thermostat unit is the one that causes the furnace to start even when it is in the off position - caused by random noise introduced into the Data link between the 2 modules. I did find some information that mentions placing a 5.6 Micro Henry RF choke at both ends(6 inch's from the ends) of the high side of the of the data cable - not on the low / ground side. This might help. To date I have not tried this and it would only correct a problem if something external of the modules is introducing some unwanted noise an that noise is not being generated internally in the Thermostat control. Any abnormal difference in delays needed for safe startup of or shutdown of the furnace or AC units is controlled by these units NOT the master control module(s) or wiring as long as the wiring is good and all connections are tight. The furnace units have a TDR(time delay relay) that controls the 4 second startup, before the fuel valves open and the 2 min. cool-down cycle. The only thing the control unit does is supply power through a relay mounted on the Master Control Module. Should you need a new control board for the Atwood series and the problem is a issue caused by the TDR, they are available after market, but are configured just a little different . So one must make sure the wiring is correct for things to work properly. The Newer furnace control board have the TDR mounted on the boards(in most cases), but the cost is higher and one needs to install some wiring between the board and the TDR circuit connections mounter near or on the blower motors. Note! there is a sail switch(micro switch) mounted in side the blower motor cage that needs to close before the fuel supply valve will open. This needs to be working to prevent a fire hazard. The dual system control panel is NLA. Only because a part or 2 are no longer available to build them at this time. So intellitec is Repairing them. To get the system up and operating properly one needs to ship the Dual control unit and the master control module back to the as a set. This allows them to make sure the system works as designed and specked. Note! at this time there are in not a substitute thermostat for the intellitec system. My personal opinion is that they are R / R the part with a different IC and doing some rewiring, by opening some traces on the boards and adding some jumper wires so a substitute IC can be placed on the Circuit board. This process is set up by calling Intellitec Service. They will talk to you and and inform you of how and where to ship the components. As of this post the turnaround time is Approxly. 4 to 6 weeks and a cost of $225.00 plus shipping and handling. Some FYI regarding the difference between the 00-00597-100 and the -200 mater-control modules. The current sensing circuit of the boards is different and you need to continue using the module that is in your system because the 2 are not interchangeable even you where to replace the 12 volt power supply connector. The newer master control board is setup for newer model AC units that tend to draw a lower current and this fact effects the operation of the shed levels. The shedding sequence occurs in the following order: Preset and no provision to reset the sequence. 1. Rear (A/C2) compressor (if running) 2. Front (A/C1) compressor (if running) 3. Rear (A/C2) fan (if running) 4. Front (A/C1) fan RV products technical helpline Mark Bayus Telephone: 419 965 3014 Intellitec 1485 Jacobs Road, Deland, Florida, 32724 I hope this information clears up some of the questions regarding the Intellitec Climate Control Systems. Rich.

Mike, Thinking you might have an open circuit breaker at the Magnum inverter or the system setup got changed and the inverter is no longer in bypass or charging? Could you post the Make, Model and Year of the coach ? Also, add the model of the inverter for the group. Rich.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! The Tag axle on gas coaches allow the coaches to carry around 1000 lbs more. They are preset and do not have the ability to move up or down from there preset point. This is a link to a copy of the owners manual if your's is missing. There is a section on how to properly weight a coach equipped with a tag axle. http://www.fleetwoodrv.com/resources/media/manuals/1998_SOUTHWIND.pdf Rich.

Things get a little Dicey here. You need to know if the clutch failed(that is what it sounds like). If the compressor failed then the entire system should be flushed and the drier replaced to make sure the are no metal fragments in the charge system . If the clutch failed, it is outside the closed system and no material should be in the cooling loop. This is why the insurance carrier is bulking. The total labor time is probably about the same though and there should be no contamination inside the cooling loop. SO, ask what the labor rate difference is to replace the compressor and just the( clutch with the R /R time to reinstall the OEM compressor. They need to know how much oil is in the compressor before replacing the clutch, before they start the repair ! The clutch can be replaced as a component and with proper and clean R / R of the compressor to replace the clutch and then running a vacuum test and recharge should be covered, There is no way to R / R the clutch assembly without removing the compressor from the coach. NOT many service centers have the techs or tools to R /R the clutch and it is much simpler to just replace the entire assembly. That is what the shop is considering. Replacing the Compressor only in this scenario does not relay require replacing the Dryer. Rich.

Very unusual like Brett mentioned ! Solid axles and king pins are like peanut butter and jelly, they work well together, but years ago I had a truck that had axle issues and convinced the truck shop to just replace the entire axle assembly. Never had another issue. Just have to think that something in the forging and boring of the axle where off some how. Never could get an answer from the shop or the chassis builder regarding what was out of spec. Put over 200,000 miles on it and never had any other issues. Rich.

The temperature will drop to 24 over this weekend along the great lakes from around Cleveland East to Watertown NY and below that at higher elevations. So having a coach stored outside over the next few days, one wants all the water and any items that you do not want to freeze removed ! Canned goods, Coach washing soap, waxes and polishing supplies, Water bottles, canned tea and soda canes. Rich.

Two pills and what one do you take - regarding down the road gremlins that just sneak up on everyone. Maybe one just needs to pick the best day over a 10 day time line and take a half hr. road trip. Rich.

Richard, With all the ducks lined up it makes it much easier to picture the rework! Option#2 looks like a winner and with Kay's thoughts regarding the Solenoid type. Things should work out well. The generator is a 70's-era Kohler 12.5 KW powered by a Perkins diesel. This Generator most likely has 2 - 30 amp. breakers powering the main Circuit panel - with an appropriately sized ATS. Rich.

The hardest part was convincing her to let me use one ! LOL You know the old rule, if you brake it - you replace it ! Rich.

Richard, There is no alternator on the gennie, and no place to easily install one. Generators installed in coaches do not have alternators as a general rule. Would it be acceptable as an alternative to use an automatic solenoid to bridge the 8 D starting battery to the house battery bank? The 8D - is it used as the Chassis engine starter battery as well as being used to start the generator? This is a common setup so one can start the generator or the coach if the house batteries get discharged. The setup used in coaches that have a emergency start switch engage a Large solenoid that connects the house batteries to the chassis batteries to enable one to start the engine if the chassis batteries are weak. Rich.

Richard5933, It is always good to have a working furnace, especially in Wisconsin ! I have removed the blower motor(s) on the Atwood in our coach. Have not tried it on a Suburban though. The blower covers have very little room and are sung with not much wiggle room to remover the outer portion of the blower cover. Had to remove mine because the Sail Switch had failed. The service center said that the furnace needed to be removed, but being a little on the stubborn side and adventurous side I decided to give it a go. The hardest part was reinstalling the outer half of the blower cover. The trick I used was to use a sheet of Teflon placed on the bottom of the work area to make it much easier to slide the part into a tight space. Rich.

Wtod210e, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! The make is Monaco and Model is 42 PDQ. What year model is it? Could you post the type of heat for the group. Sounds like the awning motor is shorted out or is bound up and drawing a high current. The Thermostat and control system is powered by 12 volts. Bad 12 volt fuse? The control systems can sometimes be reset by removing the DC power fuse - leaving it out for 5 to 10 minutes and it might reset. Also, do you have the owners manual for the coach? Rich.

Peter, Glad you got the PDF file covering the Oshkosh Via the PM! Keep us in the loop as you work through items. Rich

Daffy, Just for your information, I have an 8.1 L in a 3.4 ton Chevy Sub. Lucky to get 13 MPG (at 65 to 70) with it on the open road and no trailer or load. The unit is set up to tow 14,000 plus the 7,000 unloaded weight.. Stop and go and the MPG is maybe 8 to 9. Gearing, how heavy the foot, weather and grad can beat up MPG. As a side note at 55 to 60 MPH the Sub. will tickle 15 MPG. But it cruises along real nice at 65 to 70 = Use all the ponies and one must buy the Oats. Rich.

Should it be moving slow? You might just try to clean and lub. the mechanism well. Second is your system use electric or by chance is it compressed air? Rich.

Joe, Your attached pictures are a little different from the ones attached by Ken. Kens attachments are copies from his owner manual ( I Think) that being the case, the attachments you offered do not picture fuse # 12 or the soft touch diode. The drawing of the lighting picturing the and the CJB has got to be close to what the Chassis builder installed, right down to the brown colored wires.That are part of the main wiring supplied by Ford. I keep thinking the one touch diode # 1 in this case is directly related the the problem and the power to operate the start sequence in using the circuit for the lighting at the CJB some how . Rich M.

Thanks Ken ! Interesting it appears your coach uses a touch button to start. That would make me think there is a relay that is held on until the engine RPMs rise. Your coach uses the D-1 diode. in the circuit Should this diode fail it could be an issue. There is a possibility the start circuit is still powered and the starter power(12 volts) has disconnected. Many if not all starter circuits, open the lighting - headlights and others to lower the current load on the batteries when the starter is engaged. And since the marker fuse is blowing - a bad D-1 could cause a short in that circuit - if by chance if shorted or maybe even open. The wiring and complexity of the wiring has caused some interesting issues. You might stop at a Ford truck center and see if they can print out a copy of the wiring set up for the starter circuit. You might not be able to read the drawings(not sure of your skill sets)nothing personal. Rich M.

Ken, reaching on this one, but it sounds like the fuse only blows when starting the coach. If you replace the fuse while the coach is running does it blow or not? If the marker lights are off does the fuse blow? Also what is the fuse number and is it in the outside fuse box or the one inside the coach? Now to thicken the plot !! Not sure if you coach has the relay box pictured in the attachment , but just maybe the starter solenoid is reaching out for a ground through the ignition switch and the marker light circuit is the closest one. Check and see if the starter ground relay # 7 failed or #3 starter motor relay is defective(?)do not think it is because the starter motor current would come up short ! with a 20 amp fuse. LOL Rich M. E172543 relay box.pdf

RT, Are there other circuits that the inverter powers? I'm thinking the TV and a circuit outlet near the dinning table and or the kitchen counter. Second is there a second 120 volt power panel (sub-panel) that is powered from the inverter? XM-1800 operation Turning the Inverter On and Off The on/off button on the remote panel turns the XM 1800 on and off. When the XM 1800 is on and shore power is present, the incoming shore power is passed to the output to power appliances connected to the XM 1800, and the inverter draws minimal power from the battery. The status LED glows green. If the shore power goes away, the transfer switch automatically transfers the appliances to inverter power. The status LED glows yellow to indicate the XM 1800 is using the battery to power the appliances. When the XM 1800 is turned off, the inverter is disabled. Incoming shore power is passed to the output to power appliances. If the shore power goes away, the appliances do not transfer to inverter power. Inverter Loads The XM 1800 will operate most AC loads within its power rating of 1000 watts (XM 1000) or 1800 watts (XM 1800). However, some appliances and equipment may be difficult to operate, and other appliances may actually be damaged if you try to operate them with the XM 1800. Please read “High Surge Loads” and “Trouble Loads” carefully. Overload Conditions When the XM 1800 senses that the output load is above its output limit (or senses a short circuit at the output), it will shut down. The alarm beeps once a second, and the display shows fault code E05 alternating with “OL”. High Surge Loads Some induction motors used in freezers, pumps, and other motor-operated equipment require high surge currents to start. The XM 1800 may not be able to start some of these motors even though their rated current draw is within the inverter’s limits. Rich M. Link to owner / operation manual. http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Power-Inverters/PRO-Series-Inverters/975-0263-01-01_Rev-C(artwork) (1).pdf