dickandlois

The fact that the seal failed takes the chances of metal out of the equation in most cases. Regarding the seal failure - make sure when the new one is installed that the proper amount of oil / esters is in the compressor. Some come with oil, some with to much oil and others with no oil depending on the supplier. Also ! Always know the pressure reading on the high side !! To much collent and the pressure goes well beyond the seal design pressure. If your unit is not providing the cooling point at the ducts in recycle mode and the proper coolant level is installed. There is a good possibility that the expansion valve is failing and that little stinker is located in the evaporator area and it is in the heater / cooling box under the dash. Not the easiest item to replace / let along get to. Rich.

Big Kelly, Call and ask for the PDF Files for all the DC wiring on your 2010 HR 42 SKQ. Real interesting owning an RV / coach and no service centers in the area. Sure glade to know more about your background and the equipment you serviced. It helps others also know that if we use electrical terms - you will know them or when to ask for more information. As others have mentioned it took one H of a current to do the kind of damage your picture shows and the one item that makes me jittery is - them mentioned a component failing ? One would think that any part that could fail and draw that kind of current would have its OWN fuse !! All the items mentioned by the others are valid items to check. I'm kind of leaning towards something coming loose and causing a path for the high current short or a large high current cable that was rubbing on something and shorted to ground. Take pictures of all and every connection you remove and test the larger cables for rubbing or loose connections-they will be welded in place, if there connection point was loose in most cases. All the fuses pictured and labeled in the information you forwarded to the forum are to small for the components they supply power to to cause things to melt. Primary 12 volt power cables, positive and negative, starter circuits(but I see a 30 amp fuse for that circuit) and it should fuse a starter start relay. Any starter cables run between the damage and the starter? The corner / edge that is basically gone - so something drew a high current - under, in the area or a primary dc supply wire used something under the board to complete the circuit. Rich. NOTE! there are 2 - What look like fuses that are commonly used to protect the inverters from high current loads located just above the damaged area - Is the one just above the damaged area still reading good?

Floyd, Yes welcome to the forum. The driers are on the liquid side(output) of the evaporator and before the input of the condenser that is located inside the coach in the as part of the heater unit. One should check and make sure that if the compressor failed that no small partials of material got in the system, anything in the lines can and will cause the replacement compressor to fail before you want. Flush the system Rich.

Big Kelly- In this picture - it pictures a damaged 20 amp fuse and a large quantity of solder that was melted!! This is not normal ! Can you compare this picture to the drawings that you posted? This is part of the Big Boy Isolator Relay. Something shorted out to do the damage and requires some service help to get it repaired. The whole lower right section of the fuse board is damaged !!!!!! Rich

Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Start safety interlocks that prevent the engine from starting are - slides need to be in - jacks need to be retracted - transmission needs to be in neutral. Link to the owners manual - http://www.holidayrambler.com/resources/media/manuals/2008_Neptune.pdf The Attached file is a copy of the owners manual. Owners Manual. Pages 167 to 170 cover the fuse panels. Page 184 Pictures a No Engine Start Check list. Do you have a Multimeeter ? Note the manual is 242 pages long. Also the information you offered allowed me to find this information. Good information helps. Thanks Rich. 2008_Neptune_Owners_Manual.pdf

Kay, thanks for posting the information about Ookla. Now all I need is some time read over things and to play with it. Appointment in Gaffney next week to have some items checked(always like another set of eyes look over things from time to time) and get the coach ready for a few more runs over the white lines. Rich.

That kind of takes the power circuit for the brake lights out of the mix in most cases, because all the flasher does is interrupt the 12 volt break light power intermittently. But make sure all the connections between the steering wheel harness connection and the section of the wiring harness under the dash are good at both sides of the connectors. Using a test light or volt meter you should see the break light voltage come and go as you depress the brake peddle, IF there is no power on one of the wires in these connectors (both sides) THEN recheck the brake switch and wiring you mentioned replacing in a post before, getting into removing the steering wheel and removing the turn signal switch. Common steering wiring can be a test of ones skills and when a smart wheel system is thrown into the mix - it could get interesting! So if your coach has a smart wheel, then getting some information and wiring information on it would be a good plan. Rich. Duanelin , You might just try a new turn signal flasher and see if the rear turn signals flash - Stranger things have happened with some of the new wiring layouts. !!!!!

The ballot will be in 3 issues. Sept., Oct and November. The total count should be available the end of December, if all goes as planed. Last I heard was you could copy the ballot and each coach has 1 vote, just before leaving Indy. There is a description of what tow-able requirements will be in the information along with the ballot. Rich.

Duanelin, No yellow turn bulbs would mean that the break light circuit goes through the turn signal circuit. Do the Turn signals work? If they work then you need to check the turn signal circuit ! A bad connection(s) in the circuit under the steering wheel. Would be my best bet in that case. Rich.

You mentioned that both the coach and towd lights are not operating. If it was just the towd brake lights - in many coaches there is a fuse / relay box added to the wiring and that box is most often located in the right rear compartment bay area. There are cases when it is mounted on the left rear side bay area. The coach wiring for your model year very likely has a relay in the Left front, driver side electrical bay for the brake lights. Check for a bad fuse or connection at the relay. There is a electrical switch under the air break relay that controls the break lights. That you mentioned so there Could be a loose or broken connection in that area also. There is a slim chance of a connection issue in the turn signal switch, but your model year coach should have a separate yellow turn signal bulb and red brake light bulbs. Rich.

The Liquid Springs for the back suspension are available for many gas chassis models. Replacements for the front suspension are in the works. Rich

Does your coach have a separate inverter? or do you use a generator and shore power for all your 120 volt needs? Rich.

There are a few items that can cause the AC units to draw a higher current. 1. Low line voltage / but running on the generator - if yours is large enough should answer that question if you do not have a way to measure the incoming line voltage. 2. The evaporator unit is dirty or has been damaged in some way. The AC compressor current increases as the temperature increases because increased temps causes the compressor to work harder as the pressure in the system increases. 3. Loose electrical connections or damaged wiring can cause the AC compressor to work harder due to higher resistance in the wiring that reduces the voltage at the compressor. 4. A slow running fan motor - caused by dry or defective bearing, or a damaged fan blade that reduce air flow through the evaporator. Rich.

bdensford, Bills thoughts would be a good starting point, regarding the current load caused by the motor. Second - is there any difference in the current load when extending and retracting? How long did the slide work normally before the fuse started to fail ? What is the loaded weight the slide out ? When the side is in does it set square relative to the area around the slide ? what is the condition of the mechanical drive ? Floor plan and model option list link. http://www.rvroundtable.com/wp-content/uploads/National/1999.NationalRVTradewindsSpecs.pdf This information was listed on ebay and is no longer listed, but it does list who listed it and ; they might have some info that might help. if you can contact them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRADEWINDS-MOTORHOME-MANUALs-435pg-1997-1998-1999-2000-2001-RV-Service-amp-Repair-/131735419690 Some information you may not have on file. http://giantrv.addr.com/products/national/tradewinds/tradewindsltc_specs.htm#ELECTRICAL Rich.

bdensford, Would you post the Make, Model and Year of your coach for the group. There are a number of ways the slide circuits can be designed and the circuits and control modules continue to change. No one answer fits them all and in some cases they very from one slide to another on the same coach. Rich.

Rhodesia, Welcome to the FMCA Fourm ! When you replaced the air filter did you make Sure the hose(s) between the filter and the carburetor where tight and the clamps installed properly? There is a MAP sensor(Mass Air Flow sensor) in the system that needs to read the proper air flow for a good fuel to air mixture. Rich.

The newer coaches tend to have built in current limiter circuits for the electrically power slides. The key item to check is to make sure the slide system is properly lubricated and that it is not overloaded - weight wise, we all have a tendency to pack then with more weight then they where built to handle and it can be difficult to get a definitive number from the coach builder. My weight limit is around 500 lbs. Think you might see if a auto -reset 20 amp fuse, in a physical size that fits the location might be available for your setup. Rich.

F437613, Welcome to the FMCA forum ! Like Byron mentioned, sounds like it's in need of some TLC. Not sure of where to start -ask questions and attach pictures. Rich.

There are no dumb questions from my point of view ! We are all on a learning curve regarding Motorhomes ! Just when you think you have seen it all, something new pops up. So just fire away. Everyone on this forum wants all to enjoy there RV and be safe. Safe travels Rich.

Jim, good point - wonder if a inline valve got turned in the water line connection the pump to the water tank? or the bypass valve for filling the water tank from city water was left open - The pump will just keep running with no pressure build up !!! Rich.

The transmission is cooled by a cooler plumbed into the engine cooling system and should a leek open between the cooler and the antifreeze,cross contamination can happen. Making extra ATF or Coolant is never good good and needs to be addressed. Not an impossibility as things age. From your post, it sounds like someone might have over filled a hydraulic reservoir as Bill mentioned. Allot easier to deal with then the above items. Rich.

What is the fluid level look like on the dip stick when the engine is running? When was the transmission last serviced - filters changed? Might draw off a little of the fluid and see if by chance there is some coolant mixed in with it? Can do that by pouring some of the lubricant from the filter into a clear container and letting it set for a time. Rich.

Gemert, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! When asking for information - it helps to know the model year. Regarding the air brakes, they are very similar, but once in awhile they through in a little something different. Kind of works to keep us all on our toes! LOL Rich.

Roadiestx, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! List the Inverter / charger make - Xantrex , Magnum or other. There are some fairly sharp members on the forum and just maybe they can give you a lead. You might try this link and see if one of the listed Solar Electricians might service your model - They are almost identical to what is used in coaches - They just use sunshine to keep the batteries charged, but the system work just the same - Check them out with the BBB. I'm thinking there should be one or two in the area. http://www.homeadvisor.com/c.Solar.Lakeland.FL.-14820.html Rich. Out of the Box again.

One has to understand that when there is no contract with any organization when a beta offering is offered by an organization that is exactly what it is. It is a mining offer to see what the market looks like for a possible offering and how a contract offering will be structured. One has to ask questions before making any decision on whether the offer is backed up by a contract at any given point or when a contract will be offered and the service is indeed available. The devil is always in the details. Rich.