dickandlois

sideskr, Good Luck with the new Coach! The owners manual for the coach looks good. Do you have the chassis manual or at least, the chassis owner manual? The one item you might add to the suspension down the road, that would improve the ride and make the coach handle more like the DP is the Liquid spring Technology for the rear axle. Rich.

Steve, Yes Welcome to the FMCA Forum! The LXE coach comes in a number of models. Could you posts if it is an E, D, G, K, X or some other variant? That will offer the floor plan you have and the floorplan changes the electrical wiring. You might give Fleetwood / Rev group a call and talk to the Technical Department. Using the FIN number of the coach, ask if you can get the Electrical wiring PDF files for the unit. Also, night want to ask what the extra plugs are for. Rich.

Carylm, Could you post the Make, Model and year of your coach for the group? That helps readers, there are a number of different systems - depending on items requested. Rich.

Dennis, Service in Decatur, IN.? Rich.

Thanks for the info. This is a link to a PDF file that should cover the unit . http://trci.net/media/167833/40350 troubleshooting guide 505-00114a.pdf When it passes inspection look for other possibilities. With a good OEM surge protector install, the installation of an aftermarket; very well could be over kill. From working in the production world, there is the possibility of missing little things when there is a shift change, end of the day. Those items missed then go out the door and the dealer inspections only test the operation of the systems - if at all !!!!. When I was a line technician or engineer. My standard - if the manufacture did not have one, was to supply every one of the assemblers with a clipboard with a build sheet - the installing was then the responsibility of the person doing the job and signing off, that the job was completed. That way I knew - how, when and what items where finished. Sometimes I needed to walk someone to HR for a little pep-talk !! The fact that you coach is so new, I would have the dealer go through all the electrical connections to make sure they are tightened to the proper torque. The reasoning is - that as you drive down the road things will loosen up and one has intermittent connections that cause different levels of damage - depending on where the connections are located. Good to get it done before the warranty expires and if needed setup a factory service visit. Rich.

What is the Make , Model and year of your coach. Also what model surge protector was installed by Fleetwood? Rich.

Eric, Do you turn off all the 120 volt loads before disconnecting from shore power? All loads should be turned off before starting the generator. The current load on the ATS will cause arching across the contacts when powering up and when powering down with high current loads turned on. The arching will destroy the terminals in a short time. By leaving on high load when starting the generator, also can weaken the Generator circuit breakers over time. Rich.

Like Jim said - poisons do travel through the food chain. Traps need to be checked often. Rodent Deterrents that I know of. The first 4 do work - the last one should cause them irritation if passed through a Garlic press and heated with olive oil an placed in a container. Peppermint Oil. Cinnamon sticks. Onions. Need to replace them more frequently. Old Cat litter. Garlic, might work under the right conditions. I sure know that it can be irritating when using it to cook. Cedar chips in a container Some are more irritating to the owners then other. Rich.

Treebark. Welcome to the forum ! What model of the ones below matches your unit? Let the Forum know and then the members can offer some detailed information. Click on the link and you can get the proper wiring PDF files for your coach. Rich. Cambria (700) 27D 27K (Serial Number begins with 70769T1) 27K (Serial Number begins with 70769T2) 30J (Serial Number begins with 70782T1) 30J (Serial Number begins with 70782T2)

With out running the roof AC units, One can run the AC blowers on high, run an electric heater or 2. 1500 watts puts a 12.5 amp load on the and the AC blowers draw around 5 amps each. Running the Microwave will add 10 to 12 amp load on high. One could also turn on the coach lights one the charger reaches float point, if you have power maintaining the batteries while in storage - the lights will place a load on the coach anf chassis batteries, this will put an extra load on the charger. Rich.

rhinderber, The Attached pictures of the front suspension are from the OEM shop manual for a 1992 P-30 chassis. These should be real close to what yours will look like. The lower control arm image shows the air spring and all the parts of the assembly. The lower control arms carry the weight. I have the complete manual for both the chassis and the electrical for the 98 model year. Could scan the pages that might be of interest to you, but with the Holidays fast approaching - not sure of a possible time line. Look closely at the points and method used to attach the stabilizer bar. it is a little more complicated then just the frame bushings. Hope they help Rich.

Tom, Just got to ask how long it took to trace it out and too repair? Rich

The Hydraulic fluid picks up dirt over time as the Rams are extended and retracted into the cylinders. Also the cycling of the system drags dirt into the cylinder seal surface and the seals can weep fluid. It is never a bad idea to change the hydraulic fluid after a few years. Some cylinders have grease fittings that use lithium grease to clean the seals and maintain the seal integrity . Brett mentioned some good items to check , the lines flex at the connection points in many cases and over time form stress cracks in the hydraulic lines. One also has to remember that coach builders consider price above quality. There is high quality hydraulic line made with materials that have better over all range of temperature flexibility. Most hydraulic lines are quit flexible when warm but as temperatures drop become quite stiff. Rich.

Hi Carl! Joe Lives in the South west area and OP and Lancaster are closer to the South eastern corner Gfitz302, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! An option might be a CDL licensed school bus driver - that lives in your area. Friend of a friend or you might already know one. There might be an FMCA Volunteer Driver right in your area. Members do help members. They are listed each year in - Think it is the January issue of our publication. There is a school bus CDL licensed driver right across the street from me and he has wanted to drive ours. Rich.

Keon, Thanks for letting everyone know what went south. Kind of makes one appreciate the older and simpler systems. Rich.

Kind of ! The older RV furnace control boards are much simpler then the newer high efficiency residential units. The system makes sure that the burner is not lit if not enough air is flowing through to close the sail switch. To much heat in one spot can start a fire. Rich.

Your setup should supply 12 volts to the the furnace from the thermostat., but some are connected to a EMS system and it supplies the 12 volts to the system. Supplied more details on the other thread you posted the question on. Rich.

What is the Model, Year and make of your coach? The sail switches do go bad, The standard sequence for the 8200 series start up. 1- The blower starts up -THE sail switch MUST make contact!! There is a delay of 4 seconds ,the delay is built into the TDR(time delay relay) then the control board enables the ignition / spark 2- Timing circuit built in the control board then energizes the LP valve. for about 6 seconds and is also timed from the time that the sail switch closes. 3- If the gas valve does not open in a few seconds,(12 volts is supplied through the sail switch) the board stops triggering the ignition spark. The Blower will continue to run with no heat. 4- you need to turn off the furnace - The blower will run for about 1 - 1/2 min. and then the blower stops(this delay is built into the TRD to purge any LP from the furnace. 5- The TDR's do fail. They can be purchased from places like Dinosaur.com - cost is around $35.00 . Replacement control boards now have the TDR built on the boards, but one needs to do some rewiring between the board and the original TDR location. Proper wiring is needed so the TDR is not damaged. And the replacement board price is around 30% more. $180.00 range. The sail switch is inside the blower assembly and is difficult to get to - Testing the switch is also difficult. No real good access to the wire terminals. Not what I would consider a DYI project for owners. Hope this helps. Rich. Note, not all sail switches are created equal. Bought some from a parts supplier that failed in lees then a year. Most likely made across the big pond and no real quality control. Just a cheep price !

There are a number of items. Corrosion build up at the connections. This is caused by the off gassing of the acid and water through evaporation. Coating the connections with terminal grease or oil protects the materials from the acid that is off gassed. Wrong charging current and or voltage level. This process over time decreases the percentage of acid to water, but by that time if the batteries are charged properly, there internal materials totally brake down. Known as wet Cells. Use only distilled water to replenish the lost water. Charging AGM, Gel, or lithium based batters with the wrong voltages or current rate will shorten there life time. Referred to as dry cells. Should the water level get low(exposing the internal structure to the air) the plates will shed material that drops to the bottom of the case and builds up shorting out one or more of the cells. Hope this helps. Rich.

I know that I did read something regarding the circuit and fuse for the powered reels, but I just can not find it and it is not in the thread covering the drive gear issue. Took time to read the entire thread. Thought that was where it was hiding. Rich.

Tim, When the batteries are well maintained(good Water level) and the charge levels being maintained. Batteries can last for 10 years. A hydrometer test is the best way to know how healthy the batteries are. The amount of water is not a real issue IF it is always Distilled Water - yes the water to acid percentages go up and down - but the acid component does not very. It is the plates and the separators that eventually brake down and when that happens - deposits build up at the bottom of the battery and will eventually short out a cell. Once one is shorted out it will kill the batteries. Rich.

Herman - Take a look at this thread on the forum. Rich.

pbrosher, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Sounds like a intermittent connection between the ECM and TCM ! I would investigate having the harness running between the 2 replaced. That would eliminate both cable ends and the wiring. Rich.

The fridge in our Bounder cools very well. The thermocouple connected to the fins does need to be properly located. The fact that it is trying to cool means there is no real issue with the cooling loop, other then the possibility of a restricted orifice. The LP / electric heat exchangers do not cool as fast as a compressor unit, so recovery time is slow. Make sure the door seals are clean, the refrigerator box door matting surfaces are clean. What year is your bounder? Is the refrigerator mounted on a slid-out? Rich.

Keon, Attached are PDF copies with some information on the UFO Chassis Brakes. There are more files, but it is hard to know what matches what chassis. Rich. UFO_SAHR_Actuator_test_adjust_10_11_07.pdf UFO_Park_Brake_Function_HPB_1_23_07-1.pdf Wabco_HPB_High_Pressure_Brake_Brake_Bleed_Procedures_for_UFO_LF72_Chassis.pdf