wolfe10

movingon06, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I don't have any "secret formula" for finding air leaks on coach systems. I just use a spray bottle with water/kiddie bubbles and a toothbrush (never my own) to apply to all joints and valves. See which one blows bubbles. Takes time, but not rocket science. You can start narrowing it down by whether both gauges go down at the same rate or if their rate of drop is different. Freightliner, Gaffney can provide you with a chart of your air system.

You are the best judge of what your skill and interest level is-- as long as you are safe working around 120/240 VAC! Is your inverter output wired through a sub-panel? If so, turn off it's main breaker and all individual breakers. Start turning them on one at a time. An ammeter will tell you what is happening. If you don't have an ammeter to check current draw, do this test with shore power off/generator off. In other words, your battery is powering your inverter. Watch your amp draw/voltage on your inverter remote panel (assume you do have one). Let us know if any circuit causes a high amp draw from the battery with all appliances supplied by the sub-panel off. Then turn them on one at a time. See if any show excessive draw compared with that appliance's specs.

Agree with Tim, If breakers and GFI are OK, check the ignition-controlled relay.

Could be open tank fill valve which would allow water to "recirculate" (that is where I would start), could be air in the system (turn on a faucet and make sure you don't have air in the system), could be bad pressure switch, could be could be a leak in your pressure system.

The tach and speedo are 12 VDC and work off the chassis battery. The ATS is strictly 120 VAC. It is the "selector" between shore power and generator so only a single source of 120 VAC can be used at one time. The only "overlap" between the generator/ATS and the tach and speedo is the inverter/charger. IF (yes IF) it senses voltage provided by the alternator is below the inveter/charger's bulk rate of charge, the inverter/charger will raise the voltage to the batteries. This raises a second issue-- as in many coaches, the inverter/charger ONLY charges the house bank. I do not know if yours is wired for the inverter/charger to also charge the chassis bank.

yj bill, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. While any mechanical device can fail, loosing a turbo on any diesel engine is unusual. When they pull it, be sure they check the oiled passages for signs of coking. Certainly possible that the OE was not a diligent as you in allowing the turbo to cool down before shutting down the engine. That will kill any turbo. Please keep us posted on what they find.

Yes, on either high or low (3 or all 6 cylinders) engine compression brake, the Allison does downshift toward the "preselect gear"/the gear indicated in the only window of single window shift pads or the left window of two window shift pads. When using the compression brake to come to a stop, I always use high. I use low only for fine-tuning speed of descent on long grades-- just gives one more option on amount of braking HP.

Eskerbahn, What brand are your gas springs? And, as suggested most are just "push back down", but yours could have a positive lock mechanism.

We need to be careful here-- some "apples vs oranges" comparisons. Different engines have different RPM limits. Basically, the larger the displacement, the longer the stroke, the slower the engine turns. "Piston feet/minute" has always been the prime determinant. No different than a gasoline engine. Safe operating RPM for the GM 8.1 liter V8 is lower than the Ford 6.8 liter V10.

Most engines have two different "how fast can I safely rev the engine": Under load, aka governed RPM. Overspeed/under no load/coasting/engine braking. This is usually a couple of hundred RPM higher than the safe speed while the engine is working hard. Give your engine manufacturer a call with you engine serial number to determine these numbers for your engine. I suspect (please confirm) that 2200 overspeed/no load is not a problem for your ISL. Cummins 800 343-7357

To check for diagnostic codes: Ignition on/engine OFF. Push up and down arrows on the shift pad at the same time. It will bring up OL (a way to check oil level if engine running and transmission up to temperature). Not relevant for you at this time. Push up and down arrows again. This brings you to diagnostic codes. d-1 will be followed by a code. If no code, it will show d-1 - -. If there is a d-1, push mode button to go to d-2... When you have recorded all the codes, just turn off the ignition.

gayleking, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Assume you have the Allison 3000 series transmission. If so, the controls are electronic. What does the shift pad indicate when this occurs: 6 or N? Have you checked for diagnostic codes using the shift pad-- instructions in your Allison manual, or we can post them here. What does your dash voltmeter show: normally/when this occurs?

cre38sse39, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There are quite a number of different ways these systems can be plumbed. On many, they are self priming once the reservoir is filled (pump fed by gravity from the reservoir). Check with your chassis maker to verify how your system is laid out.

If you are one of 50,000+ participants on the FMCA Forum come put a "face with that screen name". Mark your Convention Calendar: Forum Meet & Greet Time: Thursday, Aug 4, 5:00 p.m. Place: Seminar 8 (Young Building) Look forward to seeing you there.

With the "standard truck"/front engine, the CAC is in front of the radiator. Follow the large-diameter hose from turbo to CAC and CAC to intake manifold.

Just a quick update: Only 8 sites left for the Diesel RV Club Rally. If you want to learn more about the "care and feeding" of a diesel powered motorhome, a very good investment of your time. As much or more directed to those who do NOT do their own work as to gear heads. It is about what you need to do to minimize cost of ownership and minimize breakdowns. I will be presenting the three half day maintenance seminars. For more information: http://www.dieselrvclub.org/event-2161811 You can also download the Activity Schedule from that page.

In a word, you will be just fine. Your Caterpillar 3126 has 330 HP and more importantly 860 lb-ft of torque at 1,440 RPM. Combined with your Allison 3000 transmission it is more than adequate. As with any machine, you will want to insure that all systems are in top condition before the trip. Be sure this includes cleaning the front of the CAC (Charge Air Cooler). Failure to do so is the most common cause of overheating in a rear radiator DP. If you are not familiar with the "care and feeding" of a DP, might be a good idea to have someone who is go over the coach with you before the trip.

Yup, as already said, you need to find out what each of those "black, white and bare wires" were connected to/plugged into. And, most 30 amp house outlets are TWO hots and a ground. That would put 240 VAC into any of your 120 VAC appliances what were on.

Suggest you get out your voltmeter and check. The "black, white and bare" is exactly what you need/should be no problem if properly wired. Check at any "regular" house-type outlet in the RV. The short straight is the hot. Long straight is neutral. Round is ground. So: Short straight to long straight= 120 VAC Short straight to round= 120 VAC Long straight to round= 0 VAC

Robc1977, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Find out if he wired the plug as a 240 VAC: 2 hots, 1 neutral, 1 ground. If so, likely you did quite a bit of damage to your RV's electrical system-- anything that was running. An RV 30 amp is: 1 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground.

To answer the "do some coaches have 240 VAC appliances?" VERY, VERY rare. Just as at your house, most all appliances use only one hot, so they are 120 VAC. But water heaters, some stoves, etc can be 240 VAC on larger coaches. Again, no different than in a house.

50 amp RV and 50 amp house ARE the same. It is 30 amp RV that differs from 30 amp house, as 30 amp RV has only a single hot while 30 amp house has two. 50 amp RV/House: TWO hots (L1 and L2) One neutral One ground There is another option to changing the whole system from 30 to 50 amp. Some have separated out the rear A/C to a separate feed. That separate feed can either be plugged into a CG 15/20 amp outlet or into a special adapter that, along with the coach 30 amp cord plugs into the CG 50 amp outlet. Not as clean, but a lot less work and less expensive.

Domestic refrigerator (aka house-type) or Dometic brand absorption-type RV refrigerator?

I would add to Roger's list: If a diesel engine, either the Caterpillar or Cummins Seminar If handling or ride concerns, the Suspension/Coach Ride & Handling Seminar Any of Gary Bunzer's seminars-- excellent

Again, no standard way these fans are wired. Some are temperature controlled (on at a certain temperature, off at lower temperatures). Others are wired to a switch, so manually controlled. But, looking up through the outside access door for the refrigerator should tell you very quickly how yours are wired.