wolfe10

Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. Pull the primary fuel filter again and check for issues (water, particles or black slime= algae). If your fuel system is contaminated, it easy to clog a number of filters. Basically, no fuel flow, no go! And STRONGLY recommend against using ether. You have an intake manifold heater on that engine. Red hot wire and an explosive (ether) are NOT a good combination!

Ron, There may be a simple answer, but I would do nothing until consulting with both Caterpillar AND Sauer-Danfross. Ideally, you do want a 7-10 degree "window" between thermostatic controlled temperature and high fan speed. Agree 190 to 206 is a little much.

To add to what Rich said, if there are signs of overheating (melting) yes, it is quite possible that the prong to wire connection is compromised. Keep close eye on the shore power end-- if more signs of overheating, replace the whole end. And, as already said, NEVER plug in or unplug the shore power cord with the GC breaker ON. CG breaker is ALWAYS off when you plug in or unplug.

Rich, Reality is that motorhomes do NOT have "smart regulators", so for all intents and purposes, all the alternators are "stupid". Yes, smart regulators have been available for a long time-- we have had them on our sailboats for decades. But, they are not inexpensive. The good news is that even though all battery types are somewhat overcharged by alternator output of around 14 VDC, the time the engine is running is actually a pretty small percent of the time. If you have a smart charger or smart inverter/charger, you probably notice if you plug in after driving for awhile that the smart charger goes in to float mode pretty quickly. Alternator overcharging is the reason.

Yes, you should get the "thump" when plugging into shore power, but ONLY then. Putting a load on it should NOT cause the relay to pull in again. Before replacing, check connections at ATS and at EMS. A bad connection between them could still show good voltage at the EMS, but not at the ATS. When this happens, what are voltage readings IN THE COACH (like a wall outlet)?

While I agree that an experienced tech is a good idea, you will spend more on that than just starting by replacing the regulator. And, regulator replacement is not a bad idea on that age coach even if it is not currently leaking. Another option is to have the tech have/you provide a regulator available when he starts.

Sounds like a loose connection. Unplug from shore power, generator off, inverter off, THEN remove both switch and light/first light in series from the switch and check connections. If that is not the problem, then there may be a broken wire between them that is sometimes making contact, sometimes not. Is any part of the wire in the slide (i.e. moves when the slide goes in and out)?

F429260, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Are these 12 VDC lights or 120 VAC lights?

Guys, Give Todd some time here-- he is working hard to get things straightened out on this new platform.

Here is advice from Staff on this: Click your display name in the top right of the screen. Choose "Account Settings." On the middle-right, under "Other Settings," choose "Notification Settings." There are two sections, each with a Save button at the bottom, so be sure to scroll down to see all of the settings.

Carl, Yes, the address for unread posts has changed-- discovered that about midnight last night. Here is how I get to them: http://community.fmca.com/discover/unread/

Tom, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Quite likely the vapor regulator is original and may have a small leak. They are only about $25. If you can not find a leak elsewhere doing the "bubble test", I would replace the regulator. Be aware that there are to very different styles of regulators: If installed horizontal, the vent (quarter size screened area) will be perpendicular to the long axis of the regulator. If installed vertically, the vent will be on the long axis of the regulator. Usually the same price, but the vent MUST face DOWN.

To send a private message, click on the screen name of the person you want to contact. Then in the upper right of that new page is "Send me a message". Click on that.

Trojan batteries are at the upper end of wet cell batteries with the T105 and taller T125's enjoying a good reputation. I do not know anything either way about their AGM batteries.

Why would anyone have used "high mileage" oil on a 2014 vehicle???

Ya, most of our miles were in a Pacific Seacraft Crealock 37'. Current boat is Catalina 350. AGM's in each.

Have run AGM's on three different sailboats. Probably the toughest duty, as shore power if VERY rare and battery performance can be critical at times (end of three day offshore passage where you have to start the engine to go into a constricted port, for example). Never experienced the conditions you describe. BUT (ya, big BUT) the batteries were never abused!

No first hand experience with Optima AGM's, but have used Lifeline AGM's. AGM's are move expensive to buy, have longer life, are maintenance free and recharge faster compared with wet cell golf cart batteries. BTW, there is a range of qualities of golf cart batteries as well-- they are NOT all the same).

Revolution, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. This should get you started: http://community.fmca.com/topic/1140-repairing-shore-power-cable-power-reel/

Yes, and even for the same year and make of chassis, IFS vs straight axle are COMPLETELY DIFFERENT.

Actually, I would do research on both for your chassis. Both have come out with new products/series in the last couple of years. I know I went with a brand new series of Koni (99 series) early this year. Were not even available until the very end of 2015. So, advice on what others did a year or two ago may not be "best current advice". Some are more performance oriented, some more comfort oriented. No "here is the one that is always best".

Carol, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Are you referring to the outside basement doors with gas springs? If so, there are several styles, but most just release with a screw driver by prying out on the spring clip that holds the cup in the ball. Yes, there are other methods of attachment.

mh3860sh, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Much of the answer depends on how you will be using the coach. If you will just be in CG's with shore power, you can cut back on the money you spend on batteries (both number of batteries and technology). The more you dry camp and therefore depend on your batteries, the more your choice can make a difference. Another factor is ease of access to the batteries to check them and add water. If difficult, AGM's or automatic battery watering system go higher on the list.

Both Koni and Bilstein have shock that should be substantial upgrades over the OE Monroes.

Please tell us what chassis you have? What year is it? How many miles on it? What symptoms of bad shocks do you have: Porpoising? Bouncing more than 1.5 times when going over parking lot "topes" at regular low speed? Rough ride? Other?