wolfe10

Plenty of info on Michelin's website: http://www.michelintruck.com/tires-and-retreads/selector/#!/info/x-line-energy-z

Yes, ONLY the emergency plans must be pre-approved. I.E. you could not call them after an accident from which you are air ambulanced back from Timbouctou and ask for reimbursement.

Tim, My reply in SOLID LETTER CAPS.

Tim, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The device (sounds like you have an inverter/charger) works exactly the same on generator as it does on shore power. All it knows it that it has an "external source of 120 VAC". Yes, all coaches (at least all I have ever seen) do charge the house battery bank from shore power or generator. Chassis battery charging is a LOT more "some do, many do not". Easy to tell with a digital voltmeter.

Note: This is a re-post of my post above, which I edited following my conversation with the Fleetguard engineer: OK, just spent 20 minutes on the phone with a Fleetguard engineer. Yes, indeed, micron ratings between various filter manufacturers CAN be deceiving. Correct secondary/only filter on single filter system for the Cummins ISL: Pre 2005: FS 1022 2005 and newer: FS 1003 The FS 1003 can be used on earlier years as well and is newer filter media technology. Same micron rating, same flow rate. Both filter 10 micron at 98%, 5 micron at 83%. Primary= first one the fuel get to (between fuel tank and lift pump) Secondary= second one fuel gets to (between lift pump and injection pump/engine)

patron, Sent you a PM.

Ray, Totally agree on not using Fram filters. OE Caterpillar or Cummins or Wix/NAPA gold.

Guess I have a slightly different take on the front tires. If the OE tires were very close to the tire's maximum load capacity AND there is room for the larger tire/higher load rating tire (clearance to suspension and body components) and AND you have the proper rim for the larger tire, I would certainly consider it. Said another way, I do not want the front tires to be the "weak point". I do want some "Reserve Load Capacity".

Correct-- this is NOT normal. Check for play in the fan bearings (particularly if they have not been greased)! If the bearings are bad, do NOT drive it. If the bearings completely fail, the fan could be thrown through the CAC!

OK, just spent 20 minutes on the phone with a Fleetguard engineer. Yes, indeed, micron ratings between various filter manufacturers CAN be deceiving. Correct secondary/only filter on single filter system for the Cummins ISL: Pre 2005: FS 1022 2005 and newer: FS 1003 The FS 1003 can be used on earlier years as well and is newer filter media technology. Same micron rating, same flow rate. Both filter 10 micron at 98%, 5 micron at 83%. Primary= first one the fuel get to (between fuel tank and lift pump) Secondary= second one fuel gets to (between lift pump and injection pump/engine)

We have the same shower head as well-- small world.

Yes, absolutely clean the front of the CAC. And, with performance issues on any diesel, the absolute first thing to do is change the fuel filter(s). Said another way, make sure ALL filters are new. You may have three including the strainer on the chassis rail. Freightliner can give you full information when you call them with your VIN. The reason: If fuel flow is restricted because of a clogged filter(s), it will absolutely first show up when the engine demands maximum fuel flow. Could it be something else-- sure. But fuel filters are a very inexpensive first step!

Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. With a 5 year old rear radiator DP, when was the last time the CAC (Charge Air Cooler) and radiator cleaned? Other than a failed fan clutch, this is the #1 reason for overheating of a rear radiator coach. Suggestion: access the front of the CAC (from bedroom or closet). Look inside the fan shroud with a strong flashlight (yes, easier at night). Verify that the perimeter, particularly the lower perimeter is as clean as the center of the CAC (the fan blades "sling" dirt to the perimeter).

Speck, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What age/price range are you looking in? I know that Foretravel and Safari did build a number of mid-entry DP's. Mostly older models.

If I understand your question, you are wanting to "feed the grid/shore power" from your inverter-- is that correct? Or only when power company power goes off? First question is would they accept the MSW that your inverter puts out-- never considered how that would work with the PSW that the power company provides. But, it would have to be addressed.

mjs14, While I am a fan of Eternabond, I would certainly not generalize that it is the ONLY way to prevent leaks. I do agree that there are far better sealants available than many sold for RV use. Marine sealants are more expensive, but also better quality. For roof to cap seams, I am partial to Sikaflex 221. But, it is 2X the price of RV sealants.

The "leave the inverter on/turn it off" discussion really revolves around how you are using the coach. The main "turn it off" is that while dry camping and not using inverter-powered appliances you do NOT want to leave it on-- it uses valuable 12 VDC power to just be in stand-by mode. Other times, the on/off decision becomes less relevant. But, here is an answer based on our situation. We have a residential refrigerator (factory option) and MSW inverter. Rather than run the refrigerator on MSW (may be OK, or may not) we turn off the inverter when driving, BUT monitor refrigerator internal temperature and if necessary either turn on the inverter or start the generator. Here is what we use:http://www.acurite.com/indoor-outdoor-thermometer-00380.html

Flbeep, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Hopefully someone will have info on how HR did some of their house systems. The good news is that you should be able to find on-line manuals for all the appliances.

Ray, Good question. I pulled out the March 2016 FMCA Magazine. On page 116 is a "Classified deadline date by month" Per that chart, what issue should your ad appear in the magazine based on the date you sent the fax?

Sikaflex 221 would be my first choice as both good adhesion and good sealing properties. But second would be a good polysulfide. Part of the answer depends on what material you are using.

Patron, Glad you had a good time and very glad it was an excellent learning experience for you. That is what FMCA Conventions are about-- learning while having a good time! Brett

Another option would be to cut the hole in the existing floor where you want it and then use a larger sheet of rigid plastic or lexan, etc both above and below the "floor" covering the whole area (like 2-3" larger than all directions than both old and new holes) to squeeze the floor section. Just through bolt the plastic or lexan using a good marine sealant. Cut the proper hole in the plastic or lexan to install the deck plate in the proper location.

Have you verified construction of that area-- may be an easy "relocate" or a hard one depending on basement floor structure. If steel beaming, a magnet will quickly tell you if you would be cutting structural members.

Guys, lets pull this thread back to the original question: Towability of 2016 Subarus with manual transmission. Thanks.

JayBird15, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If this is indeed a Spartan chassis, then the first call should be to Spartan with your chassis VIN. This number is a couple of years old, but may still be the correct one: Spartan Tech (800) 543-4277.