wolfe10

The ME series inverter/charger is a smart charger. Read the section on programming it (probably from the remote). You will tell it what kind of batteries you have for house bank (wet cell, AGM or gel) and size of bank in amp-hrs (tell us what batteries you have and how many and we can give you that info) and perhaps temperature (if no remote temp sensor). When on shore power, you can then leave it on 24/7 and it will do a good job of keeping the house bank charged. You still need to find out what means you have for charging the chassis battery bank. Possible choices are: 1. None-- will need to add one. 2. A solenoid-based smart relay such as Xantrex Echo charger. 3. A separate small smart charger dedicated to chassis battery that charges from shore power (or generator).

Assume you mean 120 VAC, which IS shore power. If you have a smart converter or an inverter/charger that has been programmed, it can be left on 24/7. Let us know what you have and we can let you know. The converter or inverter/charger in some coaches ONLY charges the house battery bank. In others, it charges both house and chassis battery banks. You will need to verify that both your battery banks are charged from shore power. If not, there are several reasonable "work arounds". Can answer your battery switch question better once we know what converter or inverter/charger you have. Basics are that you CAN use your 12 VDC system, but if a very high amp inverter/charger, you may need to limit its charging amperage (an easy programming change). The converter or inverter/charger WILL charge the house battery when on shore power (which is 120 VAC) or when on generator (also 120 VAC). See above-- do not know if it also charges the chassis battery.

Sewbusybarb, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, even with the house battery disconnect switch off, there are still draws-- this is normal. Do you have 120 VAC shore power where you store? Under cover or in direct sunlight (i.e. would solar be appropriate)? And, when you do run the engine, PLEASE drive at least 25 highway miles. If not, all you are doing is adding moisture to the engine crankcase. Same with generator-- when you run it for exercise, make sure it has at least a 50% load.

Yes, signs of leaking wet hub: Smell gear oil smell (high sulfur content) near the front wheels. Radial oil or dirt "tracks" from center of hub radiating out over wheel and in severe cases, tire. This would be from a failed inspection plug or outer seal. The inner seal can also fail and will result in oil saturating the brake pads/shoes. One of the prime causes of a leak is an out of spec wheel bearing clearance: too tight generates heat, too loose allows wear from hub "wobble". On large-size vehicles, a dial indicator is needed to properly set end-play. Specs are generally in the .001-.005". Be aware that a leak can be a SIGNIFICANT SAFETY RISK. The hub only has a few ounces of oil. If that leak out the bearings have no lubrication and can SEIZE WHILE DRIVING. This can result in overheating the spindle to the point that it crystallizes and breaks. Had an example of this on another forum just this year. Wheel and hub came off while driving!!! Nuf said!

In a word, yes, 18 gauge wire along with all the connections (two fuses, quick disconnect, connection at both batteries) is too small to charge a toad battery. Bigger IS better.

But, to address the OP's question, no it is not practical to run a roof A/C by investing in solar.

The is a little more "line loss" than desirable. Start by cleaning connections (both positive and ground) between the battery and main distribution panel.

Certainly one way to do it would be to disconnect the water supply line (under sink, etc) and put it in a gallon of potable anti-freeze. Run it until the cubes are pink.

12.73 VDC is a perfect reading if you are not plugged in/generator running (i.e. converter not on). If converter is on (you have 120 VAC), the next step is to measure voltage at the battery and compare with the above reading. With converter on, voltage should be 13.2-13.5 VDC. Were it me, since you know that the reading by the idiot lights is not correct, I would just ignore them. Another option would be to install an inexpensive digital voltmeter in place of the idiot lights.

What does the voltage read when you test across those leads with your digital voltmeter?

Yes, with the new late-model emissions equipment, HP on virtually all diesel engines is up. Just as with gasoline engines when they went to catalytic converters, with all the emission equipment, the engine can run dirtier and it can be "cleaned up downstream".

Bennie, The last for digits that indicate the week and year of production are only molded into one sidewall of each tire. It may be facing outward or it may be in the inward facing sidewall. It WILL be there.

Aaron, Tell us what monitor you have. Also, if you can tell, what other things are on the circuit (the wires) to the monitor.

Aaron, When you get the voltmeter, check voltage at the battery, then at the gauge in question. That will tell you if you have a battery/charging problem or just an errant gauge. BTW, the 12 VDC lights would be REALLY dim if voltage was really 9 VDC.

Lenp is absolutely correct. A digital voltmeter (they start under $20) is one of the most critical tools in any RV.

On our way back from Wisconsin, we enjoyed our stay here in N Little Rock-- right on the river and a short walk across a pedestrian bridge to the Clinton Presidential Library. http://www.downtownriversidervpark.com/ We have enjoyed visiting a number of the Presidential Libraries-- whether we were fans of that particular president or not.

Lauren, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Tell us what is wrong with your heater hose. It is common for the engine-room section to fail LONG before the rest of the hose which is protected in the basement. If that is what is wrong, you really don't need to replace the whole hose. Let us know and perhaps we can offer reasonable advice.

As posted, it is diesel-- Caterpillar C7: 300 HP, 860 lb-ft torque at 1,440 RPM.

Here is my "click and go directly to the new posts on the forum": http://community.fmca.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=new_posts&search_app=forums

I do exactly the same. One of my direct links. Just click and it goes to "New Topics".

Lloyd, While it is there, I would still recommend servicing/replacing the air dryer with a factory reman unit as good Preventive Maintenance. I have seen a couple of coaches (I do mechanical inspections on coaches) where the desiccant failed and there was white desiccant powder throughout the air system. This can require very expensive repairs-- basically it messes up the check valves, ride height valves, air brake components, etc.

VERY unlikely it is a compressor-- there is a check valve in the air dryer that should prevent this. Let's start with a routine maintenance item-- how old is your air dryer. They should be serviced every 3-4 years in an RV application. I find factory reman (i.e. the factory that made them, not cheap knockoff) a very good idea, as all check valves, heater, etc are new in addition to the filters. Other than the dryer, it is a matter of checking all connections with soap to see what bubbles. A common leak is the quick release where you could connect an air line. If so, just install a ball valve prior to it.

Bump-- anyone with Chevy 454 experience?

Suspect you will need to weigh the tradeoffs of storage vs full size units. Suspect some coaches could accommodate it, but probably not many.

Have you checked the dimensions of the stackable apartment size washers/dryers? That is where I would start.