wolfe10

Marty, You can get a tone generator that you can hook to the wire and then follow that wire to see its origin.

The answer is not as simple as it might appear. IF, and that is the big IF it truly is a deep cycle 12 VDC battery of the same capacity (amp-hrs) as the 6 VDC batteries wired in series, then no real difference. But, true deep cycle 12 VDC batteries are not very common. The reason most go with the 6 VDC's is they are the least expensive deep cycle batteries. The reason-- hundreds of thousands are in use in golf carts!

Actually, the first thing I would do is, with engine running, check voltage at the chassis battery and then again at the head light bulb. If more than 1/2 volt lower at the headlight, fix it. Often using a relay will do the job and for under $12 in parts. If you find voltage is the issue, and need detailed info, let us know.

ninadan, Yes, welcome to the Forum. You might want to contact Roger Haag-- he is the guru on the Chevy/Workhorse auto park system. Here is his e-mail address: rhaag11@charter.net

Dave, I do not have a manual on your particular engine. Please call the Caterpillar free number I posted above with your engine serial number. They can pull up your exact engine on their computer. Far better than posting what may apply to a newer or older engine, but not to yours.

Dan, Sadly, there is no "here is how they are all wired. If OE, I would contact your coach maker for a wiring diagram of the solar circuit. Monaco may or may not have support documentation going back that far. The other thing you can do is to trace the wires as they come down off the roof. If aftermarket, often the refrigerator roof vent is used to drop the wires down. The solar could be tied in anywhere in the house 12 VDC system. Yes, best at batteries (with fuse at batteries). But have even seen it tied into the 12 VDC wire to the absorption refrigerator PC board. The other approach is to check the batteries for incoming charge with generator off, shore power off. Turn off/on salesman switch, inverter panel, etc and just see what raises voltage at the battery. The inverter panel on kind of bothers me, as inverters use power in standby mode. If that is how it is wired, I would sure change it!

wndrdg, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Best advice is to go by a Caterpillar dealer and have them hook up their computer to it. Should not take 15 minutes. That should identify the culprit. Could be the temp sensor, could be the intake manifold heater relay.

Yup 50/50 cheap white vinegar and water will kill the odor and clean out a lot of the mineral deposits.

Actually, I would strongly recommend not using an RV facility to service/replace the air dryer. This is a common item on OTR trucks and a chassis or truck dealer would likely have techs who do this all the time, not once a year. Just my two cents, but if 6 years old, I would replace with a factory reman (i.e. the factory who made it, not "almost fit parts" installed by Bubba) dryer. Then, at three years, merely replace the filters. Then at 6 years a factory reman... Yes, if operated up north on salty roads or parked on a beach, probably to the factory reman every three years.

Try running the fan on high speed and let us know what happens.

This morning, I sent Roadmaster customer service a link to this thread. He asked that I post this reply that he e-mailed me: Brett— If you could please post the following response, I would greatly appreciate it. Dear Sir, Roadmaster sincerely apologizes that you are having trouble with one of our products. I am concerned that there may have been a miscommunication between us when you contacted us regarding your towbar. The Falcon All-Terrain, part number 522, is a towbar that is still in production, we still service, and in fact is one of our most popular and best selling towbars. However, I fear that the Falcon All-Terrain #522 may have been confused with one of our older towbars, the Falcon 5250. The 5250 has in fact been discontinued. Regardless of which towbar you currently have, please contact me at 800-669-9690 (ask for Graham) and I would be more than happy to provide whatever advice, assistance, and repair parts that I am able. We also attend major FMCA and Good Sam rallies and have a large service crew at those rallies who would be more than happy to take a look at your towbar there, should you be so inclined. The next rally we are planning on attending is the January FMCA rally in Indio, CA. We would dearly like the opportunity to take care of one of our valued customers, and we sincerely apologize for the miscommunication that seems to have occurred. Sincerely, Graham Dudik Roadmaster Customer Service Supervisor.

Actually Roadmaster is pretty hard to hide. They bring at least one 18 wheeler service vehicle to each Convention! Stealth and 53' don't work. And, if the wind is not blowing too hard, they usually fly a huge Roadmaster balloon!

Many with the W chassis have reported improved ride and handling with the Koni FSD shocks.

Interesting. I have attended over a dozen FMCA Conventions over the last decade and Roadmaster has serviced my tow bar for free at each of them.

Herman, I read the post differently-- that the FAN was not working for zone 2, but that the rest of the system was working properly. Yes, if the fan is working/cold air coming out then a sticking solenoid valve could be the culprit.

FredLaura, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us which Workhorse chassis you have. What coach you have. How many miles you have on it.

dartmangt, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Are you running the fan speed on high and is the air filter clean. Those are the two most common causes of freezing and then massive thawing/dripping into the interior.

Thanks, Tom for updating us. Yes, it is often easier to run a new wire than to check every inch of an old one. Isolate both ends of the old one and run a new one.

If you have and use safety stands, yes. Said another way, you need to be able to not have the coach come down on you if the jacks or air system were to fail. If you don't have safety stands, a much easier and less expensive solution is to drive the rear wheels up on boards. Be sure they are the full width of both duals and that you park with tires centered on the boards. Raising the rear wheels of the coach even the width of two 2X12" helps a lot, since the engine is well back from the rear wheels.

Sounds like the right decision. And, the cost of pure sine wave inverters has come down quite a lot.

debheen, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If you can, find out what sealant was used/what method of attachment was used by Monaco (call Monaco with your VIN). Some use a rubber gasket, some just sealant. Here is a good quality polyurethane sealant used by many: http://usa.sika.com/en/automotive/automotive-transportation-home/01a005/01a005sa12/01a005sa12100/01a005sa12101.html Click on Sikaflex 221. Here is the distributor in Houston: http://www.nappco.com/

And, what toad brake system were you using?

Agree, you will need assistance. Would be hard to imagine a CG where others would not be glad to help.

David, Let us know where you are/where you are interested in renting-- that may help with meaningful responses.

Is this a recent development/related to changing the batteries? And, proper wiring is for there to be a high-amp, slow burn fuse between the battery bank and inverter. You probably need to find a repair facility familiar with your inverter. It could be as simple as the circuit that senses battery voltage is reading incorrectly and therefore telling the inverter battery voltage is too low to invert.