wolfe10

Wheelsnkeels, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. OK, first question-- what kind of sailboat lead to the "keels" part of your forum name? Many ex-sailors here. The only effect I can see of running the engine would be higher voltage to the batteries. Have you measured voltage at the large 12 VDC lugs on the inverter with shore and generator off, engine off? And then with engine on. Wonder if a bad connection, bad cable between battery and inverter is limiting voltage at the inverter to where it detects voltage lower than it will invert. The good news is there are a lot of things going right: You know 120 VAC is getting to the inverter and both passing through and charging the batteries. That is why I mention checking battery voltage at the inverter when not on shore or generator-- if it senses low voltage, it will NOT invert.

bgusty, Welcome to the FMCA Foum. Can't help with shop recommendations, but be sure that they also: Bleed all the brakes (i.e. new brake fluid) Clean and lube all 4 of the brake caliper slides (really important on sliding caliper brakes, particularly when driven infrequently).

Actually, 800 pounds on a 13,000 pounds trailer is lighter than the normally acceptable recommendation for best trailer tracking. 10-15% of total weight is the commonly recommended percent of total trailer weight.

Be aware that the hitch is not always the limiting factor in towing capacity. You will also need to look at GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) minus actual coach weight AND Axle ratings. That 800 pound tongue weight will add well more than that to the rear axle/tag axle (and remove weight from the front axle). At that point, there are still two issues: 1. The physical/mechanical. 2. The legal-- if involved in an accident with an illegally overweight vehicle....

Yes, there are flush "wands" you can buy or make. I have always just bought 5' of thin wall clear (cheap) vinyl hose. Water heater off long enough that it is COLD. Turn off water pump, disconnect from shore water. Bleed off water pressure (open any faucet). Remove drain plug and immediately stick in the hose pointing DOWN toward the bottom of the water heater. Suck on the other end to start a siphon (remember this is potable water). Move the water heater end around while looking at what you are vacuuming out (clear hose). When nothing more comes out but clear water, you are done. Most likely if this has not been done in the last year, you will get a full coffee cup of white solid minerals out of it! If you run out of water and your "vacuum" still has minerals in it, have someone turn on the water pump for one minute to replenish the water in the water heater. Repeat until clean.

Verify that all faucets are off at the "hot" and "cold" knobs, not just at the water saver shutoff. Wet bay and shower. It could also be that you have mineral accumulation that is blocking water flow. When is the last time you drained and "vacuumed" or flushed out the minerals in the water heater. If Atwood, buy the Atwood nylon drain plug-- 2.5 wraps of teflon tape. If Suburban, buy the anode-- 2.5 wraps of teflon tape.

A question that has been long debated! Here is what I have done historically with diesel engines and why: If oil is over a few thousand miles old and the coach is going to be stored, I change the oil. Acids form in the oil and I don't want them sitting in the engine all winter. Yes, this was a significantly more serious problem with the higher sulfur content diesel which when the sulfur byproducts of combustion came into contact with moisture in the crankcase turned into sulfuric acid. OK, so the new ULSD fuel is less problematic. So the reasoning for changing before storing is not so overwhelming. Reality-- I think either route will result in an engine that will well outlast the rest of the coach with reasonable maintenance, no overheating, etc.

There are two aspects to the answer: 1. What would keep your maintenance history within the guidelines of Cummins so you engine warranty is unquestionable? 2. Is the oil in the crankcase still in good enough shape that it will not negatively impact engine life? I will let #1 up to you/your owners manual. #2 is a bit dicey. On the surface, 3,000 miles in a clean-burning diesel is very low miles. BUT (yes, a big but) there was undoubtedly a LOT of idle time, with the engine turned off before reaching operating temperature. This did leave moisture in the crankcase. The engine was installed in the chassis. It was then driven from the assembly line to a storage lot. No idea how long it was there (you can find out chassis build date from the chassis manufacturer). It was then started and driven onto a truck or RR car for transport to Iowa. It was then started and driven off the truck or RR car and stored for some period of time at Winnebago. It was then started and driven to the coach assembly line. It was then started and driven from the assembly line to a storage lot. It remained there for some period of time. It was then driven to the dealership. At that point, it may have been driven on multiple short test drives and/or many dealers start the coaches and run them in place to keep the batteries charged. A diesel is too efficient at idle, even fast idle speed to get the oil warm enough to rid itself of the moisture that is a normal byproduct of combustion You then bought the coach. From there you do know the history of how the engine and oil were treated. In short, I am sure you will get advice that says do nothing. But, were it me, I would change it, based on both #1 and #2.

Herman, Will have to give that one some thought. Since each wire in the gang plug goes to light bulbs, each will have a ground path through the light bulb. Yes, if the bulbs are removed, I can see this test working. Also, Tom is only having a short problem with only one of the wires (suspect it is black in his coach-- one year newer than our previous coach and the wiring diagram I have). At least no reported issues other than with back up lights.

krvn, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The clicking noise in the bedroom area is very likely the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). The noise would be expected if the generator is providing power/then power goes off (as contacts make and break). I would contact Power Tech for troubleshooting help with the generator: 800-760-0027 (eastern time zone).

Lex, Check with Flexsteel. They can tell you dimensions of the mounting and also what power is required (likely 12VCD positive and ground). Flexsteel 563 556 7730

Tom, I pulled out Foretravel 12 V wiring diagram B-2099 (7/21/92). It shows the back up lights as black wire with gang plug on left rear. That goes (still black wire) to ATEC DWG A4593. Sorry, I have no info on the ATEC or its location. If you still have your original manual, that may be detailed. You have already done the easy check-- disconnect the gang plug supplying the lights at the left rear of the coach. If the fuse still blows finding the ATEC and checking there would be the next step.

Mike, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Couple of "gotta ya's": With rear wheel drive, tow dollies will not work. With automatic you need either to tow on a trailer or a drive shaft disconnect. I have no idea if there is a driveshaft disconnect made for your Miata, but would start here: http://www.remcodsc.com/driveShaft.php

The answer is "it depends". The dryer purges when the air governor reaches "cut-out" pressure. Then as air is used for brakes and suspension (yes, or leaks) PSI drops to the "cut-in pressure. The governor closes the valves on the compressor (in effect turning on the compressor) until cut-out PSI is reached. Cycle repeats. If concerned about short cycling, start with the standard air brake test. This from an article published a couple of years ago in the FMCA Magazine: Air Brake System Pre-trip Check 1. Be on reasonably level ground. Block wheels so the coach can not move even with the parking brake off. 2. Start engine and run until full air pressure is reached. Listen for the dryer to purge (about 120 PSI). 3. Shut off the engine. 4. Release the parking brake by pushing in the yellow button (make sure you don't roll, and do NOT apply the brake pedal). 5. After the initial pressure drop, the system should not loose more than 2 PSI per minute. 6. Apply the brake pedal firmly (still with the parking brake OFF). 7. After the initial pressure drop, the system should not loose any more than 3 PSI per minute. 8. With the engine off, ignition on and parking brake off, rapidly pump the brake pedal to bleed down the air supply. During this stage you should watch for the warning light and buzzer at about 60 PSI and then the yellow button (parking brake) should pop out at about 30 PSI. 9. Restart the engine and build up air pressure again. While building up pressure, check how long it takes for pressure to go from 85 to 100 PSI at “cruising RPM”. It should be less than 45 seconds.

#1 diesel is also called "winter grade" and gels at a much lower temperature than #2. #2 has more BTU's/gallon, so MPG and power are a little better with #2. If you have #2 diesel that will be exposed to freezing temperatures, add an anti-gel. I know Walmarts carry PS brand anti-gel.

Excellent. Propane systems are not a place to take short cuts.

Tom, You can check with the manufacturer, but the solenoids are NOT standard 12 VDC. I do not know what harm you would do to either the new alarm (important) or the old solenoid (not so important). Personally, I would get some Rectorseal #5 (assuming pipe threads) and install the new solenoid.

mibus1645, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. It is not necessary to rotate tires on your coach UNLESS you experience uneven wear on a tire (would usually happen on a front if at all). There is no restriction against rotating front to back, the only restriction is that both tires on one side of a dual must be the same or very close to the same diameter so both share the load. So, IF you rotate, choose the rear side that has the better tires (usually left rear, as they are curbed less) and bring them to the front. Then both fronts to that left side. Direction of rotation is only important on a very few models of tires and they will have directional arrows on the sidewall to indicate this.

Excellent. File that away for future reference. A wiring diagram is always a wonderful diagnostic tool.

Bill, I suspect the wiring for the bathroom light and fan were done by the coach maker (Fleetwood), not chassis maker. So, I would contact Fleetwood for the location of that fuse.

Greg, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Does she need "reliable internet access" (pretty easy) or does she need data by satellite?

Tom, Each bulb socket has both a positive and ground connection. The bulb is a "resistor" between them. If there is water or even "wet dirt" between the two contacts, there would be a dead short (i.e. no resistance-- just a direct connection).

Tom, There is a gang plug that powers all the rear lights on your coach. I would disconnect it and see if the short that is blowing the fuse is "upstream" or "downstream" of the connector. Memory is a little vague, but remember it on the left rear side (open engine room door). If you don't have a wiring diagram for your coach, I am sure James Triana at Foretravel has one. I have not heard of any "fuse blew because of too small wire gauge" on Foretravel, so suspect short to ground. Most likely place is in the rear where water could have gotten in the receptacle and caused a direct short.

If you have the choice of turning off the inverter section, do it. If turning it off means that both inverter and charger section are off, then leave it ON.

I assume there are explanations for these terms. Certainly the ones I mentioned above should be "customized" unless the default happens to be what you have. As an example, wet cell may be the default. If that is what you have, then default is fine. Your four batteries= 450 amp-hrs @ 12 VDC. So, if that is the default, that is fine. If not, change it! Same for temperature. Suspect "Power Saver" would limit how many amps of 120 VAC can be used for battery charging. If that is what the description says and you only have a 15 amp house outlet, set it at a low setting. If an RV 30 or 50 amp outlet not necessary to change it. Please do not ASSUME that the chassis batteries are charged from shore power-- VERIFY with a digital voltmeter. Batteries are too expensive to take a chance on.