wolfe10

jleamont, Good write-up. Sure hope you did this correctly. You are supposed to wear your LEAST FAVORITE outfit-- even if you got it for Christmas 2014! You are free to blame me for ruining that purple pants suit! With the amount of "light chocolate milk" you got out, I suspect air flow through your cooling package will be a LOT better. So less overheating and lower intake manifold temperatures. Good work.

Suggest you call Michelin Corporate to verify delivery on tires. That will give you the ability to better evaluate your options. http://www.michelinman.com/US/en/help/contact.html

You might want to do a search (search box upper right of each page) in the towing section for "Ford Edge". Lots of posts on this vehicle.

Here is a link to that discussion : http://community.fmca.com/topic/288-cleaning-the-radiator-and-cac/

Yes, the two most common causes of issues are OVERHEATING and FUEL FLOW RESTRICTION. So, as Rich asked, was there an overheating issue or was engine coolant temperature within normal range. When was the last time the (likely 3) fuel filters were replaced? A clogged filter will sure cause your symptoms.

Herman, Thursday, July 30 11:30 a.m. Ask The Experts: Seminar 1 (Gary Bunzer, Walter Cannon and I all are on the panel) Thursday, July 30 1:15 p.m. Suspensions-- Coach Ride & Handling: Seminar 7 Friday, July 31 1:30 p.m. Caterpillar/Diesel Engine Maintenance Seminar: Seminar 7 Note: 90% of this seminar applies to all diesel engines, irrespective of brand.

Yes, as Herman said, check the weight of the motorhome and everything you will carry in it (weigh after loading to verify) is less than the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) and that the front and rear axle are less than their GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating). Also, that that weight plus the weight of your Jeep are less than GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating).

Tax is but one component of fuel pricing. We are more interested in the "net" cost. We absolutely use http://then.gasbuddy.com/ You can scroll along your day's route in less than 2 minutes, seeing the price of fuel all along your route. OR, you can determine the least expensive gas/diesel in a whole state (see who is having a price war). Who knows, may be very near your route. OR, you can determine the least expensive gas/diesel in a particular city. I often copy and paste the address into https://www.google.com/maps so that I can look at overhead and street view to make sure our coach will fit. I rarely go 2 blocks out of my way, but can often save $.30-$.50/gallon by shopping.

Roger, A common problem. And there are several potential solutions. Probably the easiest is to use some good quality aluminum tape (used for home HVAC ducts) on the inside of the shroud as reinforcement. Then use stainless steel fender washers under the screws to spread the load. I use a piece of Eternabond between washer and shroud to both give a little more adhesion and to more evenly spread the load (the washers are not always exactly parallel to the shroud.

f258543, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What part of Illinois are you in?

Jefferson, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Do they work on RV's? Class C? Class A? Any size restriction?

Clicky: http://renegaderv.com/ To post a link, click on the OO+ just to the right of the 1 2 3 above. As you scroll over it, it will say "link". Paste the link into the box and click OK.

That is OZITE carpet: http://www.ozite.com/products/commercial/motor-home-rv/ Here is what we use: Ozite cleaner: ChemDry brand. Stain Extinguisher. http://www.amazon.com/Chem-Dry-Carpet-Stain-Extinguisher-Remover/dp/B00B4HQ5XY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1434119115&sr=8-1&keywords=chem+dry+stain+extinguisher

Most inverter/chargers also have a "power save" or "power share" feature. It limits the amps of 120 VAC that can be used by the charger portion of the inverter/charger. If on limited shore power, set it to 5 amps so that you will have power available for other things.

You need to identify exactly what is blowing the 30 amp breaker. Go to your coach 120 VAC breaker box. Turn off the main breaker. Plug in and see if it trips the shore breaker. If not, turn off all the individual breakers and then turn on the coach main breaker. If OK, start turning on breakers until you find the one that trips the shore breaker.

Must be a government job-- a supervisor for the supervisor!

Rich, Wait, wait. You have the roles reversed. I volunteer for the "supervisory" role. Have cleaned enough cooling systems as the "doer". Hope to graduate to supervisory role.

Suzanne, That is a GREAT feature, as you do not "hard time" the batteries and charger to keep appliances running when on shore power or generator.

Yes, just garden hose pressure-- no chance of destroying anything. And, you will flush the radiator from the rear, but the vast majority of the "gunk" will be on the front of the CAC. This is actually a two person/one beer job. One person does the work, the other sits in a lounge chair behind the coach and says "still dirty" or "wow you are not flushing out any more dirt". If you pay two beers, you have overpaid. PM if you need the "other person"-- we are here to help!

Yes, in THEORY, you want to back flush the dirt-- i.e. clean from the back. In REALITY, if you used enough PSI to get through the radiator (rear most component of the cooling package), through the air gap and then through the CAC (Charge Air Cooler) with enough force to blow the crud off the FRONT of the CAC where the vast majority of the dirt is "filtered out", you would bend most of the fins on the radiator. So, you clean the front of the CAC from the FRONT (i.e. bedroom or closet). Best cleaner is garden hose with garden nozzle and Simple Green EXTREME. Extreme was developed for degreasing aluminum aircraft. You need a degreaser that will not harm the aluminum! Come to the Caterpillar Maintenance Seminar in Madison-- we will talk about this. OH, and to see if your CAC needs to be cleaned, from the front (i.e. bedroom), shine a strong flashlight between fan blades/inside fan shroud. Verify that the lower perimeter is as clean as the center (the blades "sling" the dirt to the perimeter, particularly lower perimeter). Long before air flow is blocked enough to overheat the coolant, your engine intake manifold temperatures will rise, as there is insufficient cooling in the CAC. You will be loosing HP, MPG and certainly not helping engine life.

Suzanne, Please tell us what year, make and model coach you have. And are you sure it is a Xantrex 3100. They have a 3000 model and Magnum has a 3100 model-- but depending on year, it may be exactly what you posted. And, do you know if it has the "pass through" feature. Pretty easy to tell-- on your main 120 VAC breaker box is there a breaker going TO the inverter. And does your inverter supply a sub-panel? If not, how is your inverter output wired/what is between the inverter and the outlets.

If the breakers on the inverter are on agree, check and reset the GFI(s). Many coaches have more than one. Sounds like the one for that side of the coach is tripped. What inverter did you install? Does it have "pass through" feature (so, while on shore power or generator, when the inverter sees power from one of these sources it does not "invert", but merely "passes through" power from that other source. Less strain on the system that using a charger to supply the batteries and always using battery power through the inverter to power the refrigerator and other appliances.

Have you checked with Tiffin for their ideas on access to the top of the engine? And, as difficult as it sounds to access the engine, I really wonder how often (if ever) the front of the CAC (Charge Air Cooler) has been cleaned. With a rear radiator, this really should be done once a year. So, radiator removal may be a good time to clean the radiator, probably change coolant (be sure they flush all the lines) AND clean the exterior of radiator and CAC.

Correct. The Flexsteel pedestal only rotates. In a "normal" installation, the seat track is mounted to the TOP plate of the pedestal. The bottom is bolted to the floor. You would need to find a track designed to handle the seat/accident loads while being installed sideways and mount the Flexsteel pedestal on top of it. Rube Goldberg is your friend!

Would probably need a track BELOW the swivel as well as the standard one above it. The lower track would be oriented transversely. Said another way, the swivel would be mounted on the transverse track. http://www.braddandhall.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=726&idcategory=39