wolfe10

John, Welcome to the Forum. Is this your first coach/first Diesel Pusher? Wondering how comfortable you are driving a DP in the mountains. Use of engine brake/service brake? And, Phoenix to Clovis you can go either I 10 to Las Cruces and up or I 17 and I40 and down. I would check weather before making a decision-- I 10 is at much lower elevation. From there, it really depends on where in Alabama you are headed-- Mobile would suggest a different route than Birmingham.

As Rich said, check that you do not have a 3 way water heater: MOTOR-AID, electric, propane. You can check by water heater model number or by checking for coolant lines (5/8" is a common size) running from engine to water heater and often on to the dash heater core. And your title suggests that the electric portion is not working, but you do not mention that in the body of the post.

OK, dcharn: First, welcome to the FMCA Forum. You have made three posts today on the same subject. And in two of them you have accursed someone/Monaco of deleting posts about others who may be having the same problem you are experiencing. Reality: that has certainly never happened on the FMCA Forum and I seriously doubt that Monaco or anyone else has control over any of the major RV forums. The good news is that you HAVE posted your experience and we will see if anyone else is having that issue. Moderator

Lot of truth to that. Bottom line-- unless there is a software update to address a specific issue you are having, PASS ON IT.

Phil, I took the liberty of forwarding this thread to Roadmaster. Here is the reply I got from them: The brake pressure setting is too low. We recommend 65 psi on this vehicle. This may or may not be his ultimate issue, but it is definitely a significant factor. This pressure assumes a normal install. If the dealership routed the cable with lots of sharp bends and turns, this creates a lot of drag in the cable. The more drag, the less braking activity. I would increase the pressure to 65 psi. If this doesn't solve the problem, please suggest the customer contact James Linnebur at 800-669-9690 ext. 155 so we can further investigate. Thanks for contacting us about this. We want happy customers and appreciate the opportunity to help them. Regards,

Phil, I know Roadmaster has basic PSI settings for each vehicle. I would start by verifying that the installer set the initial setting per the Roadmaster recommendations. Let us know after you verify that the 7 pin connector is working properly-- a bad connection could certainly cause your symptoms.

Phil, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Our Invisibrake is 2 year old and had performed as it should. Do you have an "Invisibrake is on" light on the dash (as we do)? If so when does it come on/not come on when the coach brake is applied? Are your coach/toad brake lights working-- that is what triggers the Invisibrake. And if the answers to these do not point you to the problem, absolutely call Roadmaster-- they should be able to walk you/a tech through a diagnosis.

Steve, The slide toppers keep rain, dirt and leaves off the slide. Particularly in your damp climate, I would be concerned about removing them. Be sure they are properly tensioned so that they do not flap in the wind. If that is the problem, you would probably want to address that problem, not just leaving the toppers off.

moremiles, EXCELLENT resource. Thanks.

Greg, Welcome to the FMCA Forum If you have checked the fuse/breaker, the next step would be to call our chassis maker. They fit the steering column.

It depends on the damage. If electrolysis has eaten the tank, you could patch the current leak, only to have one spring up right next to it. If it is a split seam, it may be repairable. My evaluation would be (depending on age and condition of the water heater): Replace with new, install new tank, repair old tank. The labor to replace the whole water heater is quite a lot less than the other two options, so the labor (yours or someone else's) has to weigh into the equation.

dbedard1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you verified 12+ VDC at the refrigerator PC board? Have you done the "burner area tune-up"? Only after that should you look to spend $$.

Look for a label on the underside of the chairs. The other alternative is to call Monaco with your VIN-- they should be able to access that information for you.

crb13563, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please let us know what generator and inverter you have. And, what are the symptoms.

Larry, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Check with Freightliner for the location of ALL fuel filters. You may have up to three-- the horizontal one, a primary and a secondary. Or must two the horizontal and final. What did you find in the filters when you changed them-- was it black and slimy? black particles? water? dirt? I always add a biocide (I use Biobor JF-- least expensive from Academy last I checked) if storing fuel over 2 months in the summer or 3 months in the winter. As far as how to prime, need to keep the line from draining back to the tank, check with either Cummins or Freighliner-- you may have an electric primer pump that is capable of purging the air from the line. If not, you might park on an incline with the front/tank higher than the filter location.

The VIN is stamped on the frame rail under the master cylinder in the left front wheel well. Did not see other information there. On ours, there is also a CCC sticker on the door above the kitchen sink. What do you need other than VIN, GAWR and GVWR's?

Proudvet, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. On our 2003 Alpine 38', the GVWR placard (actually a sticker) is next to the fuel fill. Extend the generator slide and look on the driver's side next to the fuel fill. Note, this is GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating), NOT actual weight. Actual weight will likely be several thousand pounds lighter unless your hobby is collecting rocks or bowling balls.

Steve, Can you post a picture of the damaged piece?

lanthony2020, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Here is a pretty complete list of Trek brochures through the years. There were several years where the Ford chassis was offered. http://www.nwtfc.com/forum/portal_external.asp?LinkID=10&LinkName=Safari%20TREK%20Brochures&CatID=8&CatTitle=&URL=http://www.nwtfc.com/trektraxs/TrekB/Treks.htm

Mike, EXTREMELY rare for there to be a freeze in the Rio Grande Valley-- after all, there are a lot of orange and grapefruit trees that are very happy here. South Padre Island is even less likely to have a freeze, as the Gulf mitigates big temperature drops. But, on the island, you will have more issues with corrosion.

Ken, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Two different answers: 1. Check with your chassis maker/coach maker for the towing capacity and hitch rating of your coach. 2. If you drive many mountains (vs flat land driving) that is a lot of extra weight to pull up a hill. Your coach will do it, but it will slow you down.

George, The Michelin tire chart shows the MINIMUM PSI for a given load. Most add 5-10 PSI to that minimum to account for those large shopping trips, times tanks will be full, etc. And, all tires on an axle have PSI based on the heavier wheel position. And, COLD means before driving at whatever the ambient temperature is-- not at a given temperature. I pulled out my Michelin RV tire guide (picked it up at the Michelin booth last week in Pomona): Front axle: 5,830 minimum PSI is 85. So, assuming this is the heaviest your front axle weighs (i.e. full fuel and tanks in front) I would run 90-95. If tanks mounted in front not full, calculate with them full. Rear axle: 9860 minimum PSI is 80. So, assuming this is the heaviest your rear axle weights (same disclaimer as front axle), then 85-90.

Certainly not aware of any dealer responsibility (either car or RV) to review licensing requirements. Would it have been a good idea for them to review it-- sure. And, posts like yours serve to inform those looking at motorhomes.

You should have no issues-- this is a very common setup with AGM house and wet cell starting batteries. Since your smart inverter charger charges the house batteries, which will now be AGM's, I would set the inverter/charger to AGM, correct total amp-hrs and warm temperatures.

Two separate issues: Proper temperature for your engine. Best resource-- call the Caterpillar RV hotline with your engine serial number: 877 777-3126. Time it takes to reach operating temperature under load. 30 minutes is WAY too long. Replace the thermostat(s).