wolfe10

Ross, Are you sure it was not hydraulic over hydraulic? That was the system used on most of the Magnum chassis/Safari Corp coaches in that era. The same hydraulic pump supplied: power steering, power brakes, parking brake release.

With very rare exception, brakes on motorhomes are NOT unique-- they are off the shelf parts used on trucks. I have had both "air drum brakes" and two coaches with "hydraulic over hydraulic disk brakes-- one with floating calipers and one with 4 piston calipers" All three have done a great job. Not familiar with "air over hydraulic brakes". What coach/what chassis?

Bill, Were I to ever need the spare belt, it would be just until I could buy a new one. Again, no completely right/wrong answers here-- just different ways of doing things. I admit, if I did not have a side radiator where it was super simple to install a new belt I might rethink my position. But, it takes me longer to fill the fuel tank than to replace the belts. Of course, this IS with expert supervision from Dianne!

Bill, I understand your point, but remember, rubber degrades with age. Said another way, a 6 year old spare is NOT the same as a new belt. Certainly part of the equation is labor cost to replace the belt. I do it myself, so go the "install new/keep old for spare".

rameller, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Exactly what were they adjusting on the rear axle?

The Freedom series of inverters ARE Xantrex Corp.

Yup, even less than 15 minutes with your engine with side radiator. Been there, done that. And, I like the idea of buying and installing the new belt. That both gives you a brand new one on AND insures that it is the correct belt AND the old one is a good spare!

Marty, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, a rear track bar/panhard rod would be a good addition to your W chassis. BTW, you have a 496 CID/8.1 liter engine.

Correct. AGM's follow a very similar charging scheme to wet cell batteries. Gels-- they are a different story.

Belt will be a Freightliner part-- they can give you the PN.

Yes, on your engine, the serpentine belt connects: engine crankshaft, automatic tensioner, alternator, A/C compressor and fan hub. Since the chassis maker specs and installs the alternator and A/C compressor the belt is a chassis maker speced item, not engine maker. And, if access to the top components is as difficult as it sounds, labor will/should be higher! Also, depending on engine serial number, you may have a grease zirk on the fan hub bearing. 3126 with serial numbers up to HEP15357 (Engine build date 1/7/03) have the grease zerk fitting. 3126 with serial numbers above HEP15357 and all C7s have permanently lubricated bearings. The inner belt (a "V" belt, not serpentine) connects: engine crankshaft, MANUAL tensioner and water pump. Repeat MANUAL tensioner. So, water pump belt tension is an often overlooked item that can lead to overheating if the belt becomes loose enough to slip. If coming to the Madison FMCA Convention, be sure to attend the Caterpillar Engine Maintenance Seminar-- I will be going over this in detail (with pictures)!

While there is reciprocity between states on licensing requirements, your vehicle(s) must meet the requirements in each state. So, states determine things like maximum axle weight (though there are federal guidelines), speed limits for various classes of vehicles, height and length restrictions, etc.

Labor is somewhat dependent on how difficult it is to access the top accessory area of the engine (front of engine, which is toward back of coach). Be sure to check fan bearing for play/wear while in there. Also, consider replacing the serpentine belt automatic tensioner if over 50k miles while in there (only one more bolt to remove it)

ObedB, Assume this is a rear radiator, probably Freightliner chassis. If so, it is MUCH easier with two people-- one from above (access under bed or closet) and one from below. Not aware of having to remove any components to access it. Be aware that in addition to your serpentine belt, you have a separate water pump belt (Caterpillar part). If both are original and 10 years old, would replace both! In most cases, when you need anything engine/chassis related, go to either an engine or chassis dealer, NOT RV dealer. With a rear radiator, it is no fun, but certainly not a "disassemble coach to do it". job.

Another option: RVSEF. Here is their website-- just click on the months to see if any fit your schedule. They are the ones who do this at the FMCA Conventions: http://www.rvsafety.com/weighing/weighing-schedule

Ya, sorry-- several conversations on different systems going on here. I was referring to hydraulic systems. RE: Your electric jack part: I am sure we have others who are more familiar with the electronics, but am still wondering other than triggering voltage, amps carried and normally open or closed what unique features this relay needs to have.

ruthe, Tell us what year, make and model you have and perhaps someone with first hand experience with your rig will know the answer. Many coach makers make their own tables, including the leafs.

Have you taken on to a good hydraulic shop? Many hydraulic shops can rebuild hydraulic rams-- most are common sizes with common components such as seals.

Suggestion, Apply lube. Then activate the brake at least a dozen times. Can be done while driving or by disconnecting the positive wire to the exhaust brake solenoid and applying 12 VDC positive from any other source in the engine room. Do NOT back-feed the normal wire supplying the positive signal to the solenoid. Many of us have cut the wire close to the solenoid and inserted a protected (insulated) quick connect to make this easy.

Must be a very unusual relay-- most all relays do the same job. operating voltage, amperage and normally open/closed are the only normal variables. What is unusual about this relay??

Both Wix and Donaldson are also quality filters. No problem there.

I have always just used the lube that PacBrake sells. Available at all FMCA Conventions I have attended, and I am sure a number of dealers who sell and install the brakes as well as from PacBrake directly. From that same page: "PACBRAKE’S SYNTHETIC OIL WITH PTFE (HIGH VISCOSITY) Pacbrake’s synthetic lubricant is a premium, synthetic oil with suspended PTFE particles that bond to surfaces of moving parts providing protection against friction, wear, rust and corrosion. Ideally suited for industrial machinery and equipment, it is safe on metal, rubber, plastic, wood, leather, fabric and painted surfaces. Machinery lasts longer, downtime is reduced, and productivity is increased." And, here is where to lube a PacBrake: http://pacbrake.com/supplemental-brakes/prxb-exhaust-brakes/maintenance/

I private messaged that the link did not work for me-- may have to log in to make it work. So likely, others not a part of the Newmar family will not be able to view.

Spizzer, I was curious about your method of lubing, and shared it with an engineer at PacBrake. Here is his reply: Brett, In testing of exhaust brakes in, an engine compartment, with airflow over the engine. We have not seen surface (soaked ) temperatures, of the exhaust brake, exceed 400°F. The internal temperatures are much higher yes, and the flash point of the lubricant will be exceeded, however this is contained within the exhaust piping. In testing of different lubricants, Super Lube® was found to be the best at penetrating into the bushings, while also stopping corrosion from forming during periods of inactivity. Lubricants such as the Permatex® Aerosol Anti-Seize, did not penetrate these critical areas of the Exhaust Brake, Like the Super Lube® will. I hope this helps answer your Question Regards Supervisor – Lab and Testing PACBRAKE COMPANY

If you indeed got d-1, - - when you checked, the other thing is to check fluid level after the transmission is fully warmed. But, from your first post, it sounds like you have used the shift pad to check and fluid level is OK. When the alarm sounds, is there anything unusual about the shift pad-- like when you hit D, it flashes rather than going into Drive?