wolfe10

bforo, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you checked for Allison diagnostic codes? With ignition on, engine OFF: Hit the up and down arrows on the Allison shift pad at the same time. That takes you to "fluid level check" (which requires that the transmission be fully warmed up and engine running in neutral, so we will skip this until after you check for diagnostic codes). Hit the up and down arrows a 2nd time. This takes you to diagnostic codes. It will show d-1 and then a two digit code. If no codes it will show d-1, - -. If there is a d-1, after copying it down push the mode button to go to d-2. Continue until you get a d-?, - -. To exit, just push "D" or simply turn off the key. You can get the diagnostic codes from your Allison owners manual or on Allison's website.

Make sure it has no petroleum or silicone content. Both degrade rubber.

John, How close is the next nearest light. Wonder if you could use a fish from one to the other? Option "B": Probably worth some real time with a straightened coat hanger with small hook formed on the end in the original hole.

Roy, Either call your wheel manufacturer with your wheel PN (easiest to see on rear wheel) or look it up.

Gas pushers got a bad reputation several decades ago-- with several manufacturers using the OREG chassis (Oshkosh Rear Engine Gas). Those issues do not seem to be of import for the new generation UFO chassis. Here is a link to information on a mid 1980's gas coach on Oskhosh OREG chassis-- would not recommend one: http://www.beamalarm.com/foretravel-links/models/1986_foretravel_3400-3600_oreg_specifications.html

Those will be on the Workhorse UFO chassis. Most owner reports are very positive. An Internet search for "Workhorse UFO chassis" brings up a number of hits.

What brand and style are they? Or, post a picture of them.

In a word, YES. Assume you have a diesel with cylinder liners vs parent bore. All diesels with liners require different coolants than your car. Coolant requirements are pretty much the same between all diesel engine manufacturers. "Regular Prestone", like you would get at Walmart is NOT acceptable/does not meet the specs for any diesel engine manufacturer. There are two basic types of coolant that do meet the specs: 1. Low silicate for diesel coolant with added SCA (Supplemental Coolant Additive). The SCA is used up as it protects the cylinder liners and needs to be tested for and replenished. Replenishment can be liquid SCA or coolant filter replacement with a filter with the correct amount of SCA to bring the level back to spec. Here are the Coolant Test Strips that we give out at the Diesel RV Club Rallies: http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=22873 The problem with any of the test strips is that they are normally packaged in large quantities and have a short shelf life (expiration date printed on the packets). The link above, for example is for 12- individually sealed 4 packs of test strips. So, for an individual, it may not be cost effective to buy that way. But, if going to a Rally or event where there will be many other diesel coaches, it makes perfect sense. Do NOT use expired test strips-- they are not accurate. 2. The new generation OAT-based coolants. More expensive, but require no testing or adding for 6 years/300,000 miles. BTW, you engine owners manual will have a section devoted to coolants and your engine's coolant requirement.

teanob, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The official answer from Subaru (as of January 2015) is that ONLY manual transmission Subarus may be towed 4 wheels down. If you find out something to the contrary from contacting Subaru (actually, were it me, I would want to see it in writing), please let us know.

daveandpete, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Very likely from underneath. Your chassis maker fit it (likely Freightliner, and then Damon built the house on top of it, so there is no "here is how they are all done". Very likely you have an air intake on the side of the coach, near the back and below the beltline. That leads directly to the air filter.

Yup, the Texas CDL Class B Exempt is a lot less expensive than a "real" CDL, does not require doctor's certificate, etc. As Herman said, the written test DOES have a number of truck/tractor questions-- Chapter 14 of the Texas CDL book if I recall correctly. It seems the driving part of the test varies by office. I know in Texas City where I took the written test and then scheduled and did the driving test, you back the coach straight back 200', then parallel park the coach as well as the actual on-road driving part. PLENTY long space to parallel park (same one used for 18 wheelers), but not a maneuver that one does very often in a motorhome.

That feature is often built into the cruise control. Check your cruise control manual/owners manual section.

Ya, but a lot more comfortable bed.

Brad, The chassis maker specs and installs the air filter, not engine maker. Then the coach builder builds a "house" over it. In many cases, the coach builder and chassis builder did not put servicing as a high priority. One of the things to look at when buying a coach-- whether you do your own work, or, even more importantly if you are paying for someone else to do it. Another example is a valve adjustment. The actual adjustment takes around 1 hour. But, depending on coach, it can take 4 times that long just to get down to the valve cover and remove it.

Yes, the proper driver's license in Texas for a motorhome over 26,000 pounds GVWR is a "CDL Class B Exempt". http://dps.texas.gov/DriverLicense/dlClasses.htm

Yup, nothing like the sound of a Detroit 2 stroke at higher RPM's.

While I like the idea of a large-gauge (8 or larger) charge wire from coach to toad, be careful to check your auxiliary brake specs for amp draw. I can see the auxiliary brake's high amp, short duration power consumption dropping voltage to where brake performance is compromised if it relies on power only from the long charge wire. Better to use the wire from the coach to keep the battery in the toad charged and use the toad battery as an "electrical reservoir" to power the brake.

Montie, Sounds like you are taking good care of the tires. BUT, you said you bought it used. Do you know how the original owner cared for them???

Probably two very different answers. Probably not a lot are stopped for length violations. But, were you involved in an accident, operating a vehicle illegal in that state would probably expose you to some real legal issues.

ObedB, Not sure there are "sides" here. But, I do agree that there are so many "if you read it on the Internet it must be true" statements floating around, that some substantiation is really a good idea. Much better to have FACTS rather than OPINIONS, particularly of 2nd or 3rd hand ones.

Ask for a "before" and "after" print out. You want caster set to the high end of factory specs. Same for toe-in. High toe-in will accelerate tire wear, but will give more stability/tracking.

Most side radiator coaches have either two speed fans or variable speed fans. So, first question is: Is your fan system operating as it should, or it is "stuck on HIGH". Note, high is the normal default speed, so if there is an issue, you will have the fan stuck on high. This leads to not only lots of dust at low speeds, but less HP and less MPG on the road, since you are using the extra power to power the fan on high speed. Monaco should be able to give you insight into how your system works and how to verify that it is working properly. With that said, most of the air forced through your CAC and radiator DOES exit the bottom of the coach.

The reality is that virtually all diesel engines used in RV's in the last couple of decades will far outlast the rest of the coach. Can you kill one-- sure, but doubt you will ever wear one out.

Same thing if too little caster.

Which Holiday Rambler model did you get?